PECULIARITIES OF LE PUY.

167

were told that they numbered two thousand. Independently of many objects of local interest preserved in the Museum, such as Roman remains disinterred in the neighbourhood, ancient armour, furniture, &c., a large collection of fossil bones of extinct animals, discovered in the adjoining volcanic district of Le Velay, is exhibited. Some of them have been examined and named by Cuvier.

The streets of Le Puy afford an endless variety of amusement. Here, indeed, is no monotony of miles of similar houses; each habitation differs in some respect from its neighbour, and all are more or less ornamented. The shops have quite an Eastern air, being open, and exposing their goods en plein air. Half of them are devoted to the sale of lace, the manufacture of which employs twenty thousand women in Le Puy and the district of Le Velay. Throughout the day, the female population, of all ages, may be seen seated before their doors, twirling their lace bobbins with wonderful celerity. The lace is made of cotton. We purchased some specimens, which our lady friends at home pronounced to be of great beauty, and cheap. Large quantities are purchased for Paris and London.

The dress of the peasant women is most picturesque dark green robes, with rich coloured boddices and handkerchiefs. The head is covered by a snow-white cap, trimmed with lace, and surmounted by a funny little black felt hat, but little larger than a saucer. It is generally worn quite plain, but

168

FEMALE COSTUME.

dashing maidens, who can afford it, ornament the hat with feathers and gold ornaments. The effect of this head-dress is most singular. Desirous of possessing a reminiscence of it, we asked our landlady to procure a pretty girl from the market-place, offering a remuneration if she would sit to us. Presently the garçon appeared with a couple of blushing beauties, either of whom would have made an admirable subject for an artist's pencil. No sooner, however, were they made aware of the uses to which we intended to put them, than they scampered off, frightened out of their senses, and resisted all entreaties and offers of money to remain. Thus discomfited, we were obliged to be satisfied with a fille-de-chambre belonging to the hotel, who was but a poor substitute for the marketgirls. Here, however, is her head-dress.

ROCHER DE ST. MICHEL.

169

How Mieris would have revelled over the scenes. There were pyramids of gourds and melons, baskets of juicy figs and luscious grapes, purple plums and rosy apples, mingling their colours in delicious harmony with those of the peasants' dresses.

Adjoining the town rises the very remarkable isolated Rocher de St. Michel, which, from its spirelike form, gives the name of l'Aiguille to the suburb in which it stands. It is a most striking feature, attaining an elevation of 265 feet, and presenting perpendicular walls on all sides. The diameter of the base is about three hundred feet, decreasing to about forty-five at the top. This is surmounted by a miniature chapel, whose foundations fit into the inequalities of the rocky platform, seeming to grow out of it. Access to the chapel is gained by means of steps cut in the solid rock. An old woman to whom we were directed gave us the key of the chapel, and, unlocking the door at the base of the rock, allowed us to ascend unattended. The view from the top extends over vine-clad volcanic slopes, dotted with white villas, and the huge basaltic cliffs of Espailly, backed by the chain of the Cevennes mountains. The façade of the little chapel presents a mosaic of black lava, white sandstone, and red tiles, formed into grotesque figures and patterns. Unlocking the door, we passed into the interior, which consists of a small choir, supported on low pillars with richly-carved capitals. A single altar is placed at the On it was an image of the Virgin, and a

east end.

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VOLCANIC REMAINS.

pewter plate containing several small pieces of money, the offerings of pious visitors. Behind the altar are some curious hiding places, provided with air channels, which were doubtless used for priestly purposes, when deception was made subservient to gain. A lofty spire surmounts the chapel, thus causing the rock to appear, at a distance, like a needle. It is impossible to contemplate this exceedingly curious natural obelisk without speculating on its existence. It is supposed that what may now be called the valley of Le Puy was, at one time, a vast volcanic bed of tufa, resting on strata of tertiary formation, but covered by alluvial detritus. Portions of this bed consisted of breccia impregnated with iron, and these have resisted the erosive influence of meteorological agents acting through many centuries. Such is the composition of the Rochers de St. Michel and Corneille. Human calculation becomes weak and inefficient when it is attempted to measure the time during which the slow action of the atmosphere and of water have been effecting these great changes, which are still in progress, though their extent is unnoticed during the few brief years of man's life. Mr. Scrope well observes, How many conflicting and wonderful theories might naturalists have spared themselves the pains of inventing and propagating, how many puzzling and hourly accumulating facts might even now be simply and satisfactorily accounted for, would we but consent to allow its possible effects to the decomposing, wasting, and abrasive influence of

THE CASTLE OF POLIGNAC.

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meteoric agents, not measuring their power by the scale of our limited observations, nor the duration of their action by the microscopic span of our own existence.**

Reasoning thus, we are struck with the deep meaning of the passage in Holy Writ, that with the Lord one day is as a thousand years, and a thousand years as one day.'

We devoted the greater part of a day to an excursion to the Castle of Polignac, which is about two hours' walk from Le Puy. The scenery, as usual in this volcanic country, was very striking and varied. A sudden turn of the road disclosed the castle, now reduced to a few ruined towers, which surmount a huge rock of breccia, inaccessible on all sides but that on the north. The village of Polignac nestles under the vertical cliffs, having outlived its once formidable feudal neighbour. As we wound up the rocky path leading to the castle gates, we were much struck by the bright hues of the lichens which coat the rocks, giving them an appearance of being painted. Knocking at the ancient oaken doors, a girl admitted us, and a few steps brought us among the crumbling ruins. Amid them, in cleared patches, oxen were ploughing, where once knights trod in armed mail. The castle, when intact, was of prodigious extent and strength. The donjon tower is the only part now remaining at all perfect. The fury of the revolution

*Geology of Central France, p. 140.