IT

CHAPTER XII.

T was with no ordinary feelings that I threw open my window on the third morning of our sojourn at Grenoble, and gazed inquiringly at the face of heaven; for we had a pilgrimage in prospect," for which fine weather was particularly essential. This was a visit to the Grande Chartreuse. To see that celebrated monastery formed one of the chief objects of our tour. The unclouded sky wore an unmistakeable appearance of fairness. Had the azure vault been the dial-plate of a huge barometer, the needle would assuredly have pointed, 'Set Fair.' Our spirits rose immediately. Not that we were apprehensive of a juicy day.' In the latitude of Grenoble, and in summer time, such excursion spoilers are of very rare occurrence; but we were greedy, we wanted a perfect day,—

Cool, and calm, and bright,

The bridal of the earth and sky;

and here was one. The delicious morning air came into our room pure and fresh, making existence happiness; and the mountain-girdling bastions of the fortress were pencilled with military precision against the deep blue sky, so transparent was the atmosphere.

ROUTE TO THE GRANDE CHARTREUSE.

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It is always a difficult matter in France to coax an early breakfast out of the cuisine of an hôtel-by breakfast, I mean a sensible, honest, comforting English breakfast, that being eaten puts a man in good humour with himself and all the world, and fits him to go forth and do battle bravely. For my own part I make it a rule, from which I never swerve, excepting when the stern, strong hand of necessity compels me, never to adventure forth on my day's duties or pleasures without fortifying the inner man.

On the present occasion, after the usual amount of importuning, we procured a very satisfactory repast; having partaken of which, we felt equal to climbing the Grand Som itself.

There are two roads from Grenoble to the Grande Chartreuse the one by Voreppe and St. Laurent, the other by Sapey. The former, though much the longer, is practicable as far as St. Laurent for carriages; the latter is a mere rough mule-path. We determined on going by St. Laurent and returning by Sapey. A small two-horse diligence leaves Grenoble every morning at seven during the summer months for the former village. In the coupé of this vehicle we had secured seats, and a few minutes after seven found ourselves, with some half-dozen ecclesiastics bound on the same pilgrimage, rolling out of the city of Grenoble. My neighbour in the coupé was a jolly-looking priest, savouring more of grease than Windsor soap, with an oily, happy countenance, showing that its possessor was in good humour with

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TRAVELLING COMPANIONS.

himself, and at peace with all the world. I always make it a rule in my travels to follow the good advice of the Vicar of Wakefield-viz., to enter into conversation with all persons whom the accidents of travel may throw into my companionship, holding with the good Vicar, that if they fail to give useful information, or to afford entertainment, I may be of some service to them. Railways at home have interposed their iron din and discord between travellers, tying up their tongues; but in France, and particularly in the south of that country, where such ways are almost entirely unknown, the slow diligence affords every opportunity of making a bosom friend of your travelling companion ere parting from him.

So the reader will be prepared to learn that I soon opened a conversation with my neighbour the priest. Before starting, he had stowed in the sole pocket of the coupé a square-looking can of large proportions, which ever and anon engaged his especial care and attention; for as our jolting vehicle lumbered along, the said can swung to and fro in a manner not very conducive to its safety, if it were made of glass, or other brittle material. My curiosity was excited respecting it, and after various speculations, I came to the conclusion that it was a bottle containing comfort for my neighbour and his companions. The priest, however, quickly disabused me of this idea; for after expressing his hope that the vessel did not inconvenience me, he added,—

"I am solicitous about it, for it is exceedingly precious, as it contains miraculous water.'

This announcement, far from allaying my curiosity, rather served to increase it; so I begged to be informed of the properties of the said water, and where it came from.

'What!' said the priest, have you not heard of the miracle lately performed on the holy Mountain of the Apparition near Corps?'

I confessed my entire ignorance.

That is strange,' said he.

hear the history of it?'

Would you like to

'Indeed I should,' I replied; and shall feel greatly obliged by your communicating it to me.'

The priest then related the following extraordinary story as our diligence was pursuing its way through the vale of Grésivaudan; and as the scenery more immediately connected with the Grande Chartreuse did not surround us until the priest had concluded, I think that I shall not err in making the reader a listener to the tale, which will, I feel certain, keep him awake whilst travelling along the flat road between Grenoble and Voreppe.

'The scene,' commenced the priest, crossing himself with much apparent devotion, of this late miraculous manifestation of God's grace to this sinful world, is a mountain of vast height, covered with snow during the greater portion of the year, which rises near the hamlet of La Salette, in the commune

of Corps and department of the Hautes Alpes. It requires four hours' continuous walking, to attain the summit of La Salette. The mountain, previous to the miracle, was known only to the peasants who live at its base, and whose flocks in summer time seek pasturage on it.

6

Last September, two children, brother and sister, named Macédoine and Mélanie Annans, the former twelve years of age, the latter fourteen, were tending some sheep belonging to their parents, who are humble peasants living in a cottage on the mountainside. It was noon, the day was oppressively warm, and feeling tired and hot, they sought a spring near the summit of the mountain to quench their thirst. The fountain did not flow constantly, being frequently dry in the summer months. After drinking, they threw themselves on the grass, and fell into a profound sleep. How long they remained asleep they cannot state. They were woke by a rushing noise, and the rustling as it were of satin. On looking up, they beheld a woman seated on a stone, apparelled in white robes trimmed with lace, and bordered at the bottom by red roses. Her hair was dressed in plain bands; on her feet were white satin shoes, ornamented with gold buckles; and her hands were crossed on her breast. At the sight of this apparition the children were affrighted, and rose to run

away.

Fear not,' said the female, addressing them in their native patois; I will not harm ye. Approach.'