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PERILS OF THE COL.

quite warm, and as thirsty as usual. We sent the guide for a lump of frozen snow from the nearest glacier, and filling our drinking-cup from the cold stream which trickled down the ridge, added a little cognac, and iced the mixture. The draught was nectar. We thought that we had never tasted anything half so delicious; and we indulged in cup after cup, until the bliss of drinking expired with the assuagement of our thirst.

It was not long before a sense of chilliness crept over us, compelling us to rise from our stone seats, and resume our march. Previously to starting, Jacques procured an immense mass of frozen snow, through the middle of which he thrust his staff, and shouldering it, carried it down the mountain. None but an experienced guide could have detected the path. It was very precipitous, dipping down in some places almost vertically. I cannot conceive a more desolate or awful position for a lone traveller to be placed in, than on this Col during a fog. The dangers of such a situation were forcibly brought before us, by the number of wooden crosses marking the deathspot of daring peasants who had attempted to cross the pass during seasons of danger. We went merrily down the mountain. Stern winter was soon succeeded by spring, and this by summer, as we descended. Then the frozen snow which our guide had providently burdened himself with, became most grateful. Often we stopped Jacques, and scraping a small quantity from the lump into our cup, drank it in a half

melted state. It died a lingering death, and did not yield its last life-water until we had descended the mountain.

After plunging down for an hour, we came to an upland valley, through which we passed to the hamlet of Laval. Here we were well inclined to halt, for we were tired, having walked nine hours; but our guide lured us on, by the promise of our finding much better sleeping quarters at Tignes. So on we trudged for two hours more, during which time we passed through the most savage gorge that I have ever seen. It was lined by terrific precipices, which rose up vertically to a stupendous height. Of course, a torrent dashed through the defile. Along this the path was generally carried, though often we had to cross the water by bridges consisting merely of a couple of pine planks. Enormous masses of rock, which had fallen from the impending heights, strewed the bottom of the gorge. Numerous crosses marked the spots where peasants had been struck down and killed by falling rocks. According to our guide, rocky fragments are frequently detached, and render the passage of the defile dangerous.

Happily none came thundering down while we were in the gorge, for we were so exhausted and tired, that I doubt much whether we could have run nimbly, even to save our heads. Deep and dark was the gloom in the lowest and narrowest part of the chasm. As we emerged from it, the sun appeared sinking behind a long line of pines, edging them with threads of gold.

The last mile appeared to us the longest and roughest that we had trudged during the day; and when we arrived at Tignes we were as tired as the wolf in the fable, who cannot lift his tail. The village consisted of some score of small houses grouped round a church, from the tower of which the melodious tones of the evening bell proceeded.

At another time we might have paused to listen, for there is that in a village church-bell, heard amidst the mountains, which strikes

our thoughts and

We gazed eagerly passed the unhewn

The electric chain with which we're darkly bound; but at the present moment all hopes were centred on the inn. to the right and to the left as we stone houses, trusting to see the welcome sign; but Tignes is not sufficiently visited by travellers to warrant such a display. Our guide stopped opposite a house no larger than the others in the hamlet, over the door of which was scrawled in erratic characters, 'Chez Bock.' This was the inn. Jacques entered to announce our arrival, and presently appeared followed by a strapping girl, who communicated the joyful intelligence that we could have beds. She led the way up a rickety staircase outside the house, and unlocking a door, to which it gave access, conducted us into a small cabin-like apartment, provided with two holes in the wall, which we concluded contained the beds.

A narrow table and benches constituted the entire furniture of the room.

Rude as was our lodging, I regarded it with very great satisfaction, and could not help feeling how very fortunate we were to find the only resting-place at Tignes untenanted. But according to M. Bock, tourists here are rare birds. We were the second party that had passed during the entire summer.

The first thing we did was to attend to our feet, which we washed and anointed with tallow and brandy, a capital specific against blisters and tender

ness.

We had walked about thirty miles,* and crossed a mountain above nine thousand feet high, which was a fair allowance of exercise for one day. I cannot say much for the resources of M. Bock's larder. Meat was not to be had in the village, so we were obliged to rest satisfied with eggs, bread, cheese, and wine. As soon as we had concluded our repast, two of our host's daughters set to work pounding and shaking the beds, which were stuffed with maize leaves, and gave suspicious tokens of containing other things not inanimate.

However, we were too tired to be very inquisitive or choice, and as soon as the damsels had vacated our apartment, in which they carefully locked us, we crawled into our holes, and were soon of Sancho's opinion, that the man deserves to be held in blessed remembrance for evermore who invented sleep.

* From Lanslebourg to Bonval occupied 4 hours, thence to the summit of the Col 3 hours, to Laval 2 hours, and to Tignes 2 hours, making 111⁄2 hours' walking.

A

CHAPTER XVIII.

BOUT midnight I was roused by a terrible noise.

It seemed as if the population of the village had set to, fighting and screaming under our window. At first I was a little alarmed, but remembering that our door was locked, and feeling very tired, I behaved very philosophically, and lay still until the row ceased, and then I slept till past the dawn of day.

The morning spirit of the Alps was abroad when I rose and threw open our little well-barred window. Slipping on a sufficiency of garments to receive the visit of our waiting damsel with propriety, I called to our guide, whom I saw in the street, and bade him desire the girl to bring us water for our ablutions.

She came, bearing a sort of pie dish, containing about a cupful of water, but as any quantity of this liquid could be had for the asking, I soon exchanged the pie dish for a tub, and with large coarse towels and soap, effected a most satisfactory toilet.

This over, I descended and made inquiries respecting breakfast. Ah, sir,' said the host, rubbing his hands, I shall be able to give you a capital déjeuner à la fourchette. See, sir,' he added, holding before me an animal freshly decapitated and skinned, which my defective comparative-anatomy education led me to conceive was a hare,- here is a magnificent