Page images
PDF
EPUB

72

VALLEY OF ROYAT.

This was the scene of Cæsar's memorable defeat by the Gauls, fifty-three years B. C., which compelled him to evacuate the country.

6

6

The French are proud of this achievement. We ought not to remain satisfied,' says an Auvergnat, swelling with provincial pride, in a book descriptive of Clermont and its neighbourhood, until an obelisk be erected on the topmost point of the mountain of Gergovia, which should inform strangers that here, Vercingétorix, at the head of 40,000 Gauls, defeated the Roman army commanded by Cæsar. It would be well to add, that Gergovia is also memorable as the site of the chief city of the Averni, whence Auvergne.

There is an endless variety of sweet subjects for the pencil in the valley of Royat. The Puy de Dome fills the back ground looking up the valley with imposing effect, sometimes being seen through groves of rich chestnut trees.

The village is a wretchedly dirty place, intersected by narrow alleys, through which crawl a miserable squalid population. Below the village, the stream which comes down the valley has cut through the bed of basaltic lava to a depth of sixty-five feet, and carved out a kind of grotto, one of the show places of Royat.

At a small inn-Le Rendezvous des Artistes,' —we parted from our guide. He evidently set a high value on his services, for he demanded a fee of ten francs.

A little discussion soon led

EFFECTS OF THE REVOLUTION.

73

him to be most thankful for half that sum, to which, however, we added a pour boire and a dinner. He had lost, he said, by the maudite revolution, twentyfive Louis last year, not a traveller having ventured into the wild district of Auvergne. The aubergiste, whose house was said to be much patronized by visitors, showed us his book. I had the curiosity to enumerate the number of his artist guests during past years. They were, in 1846, 15; 1847, 10; 1848, 1. C'est la révolution, n'est ce pas,' said I, pointing to the last figure, 'qui est cause de ce petit chiffre là?' 'Ah, mon Dieu !-oui,' was his reply.

[ocr errors]

Refreshed by a bottle of very good wine, we set off for Clermont, distant three miles, and entered it as its―

spires,

Were lighted up by the fires

Of the sun going down in the west.

CHAPTER-IV.

LERMONT is certainly an interesting city.

CLER

There is no end to its architectural relics of olden days, and to its narrow streets, which seem to defy the improving or spoiling hand of time. They carry the imagination back to past ages-when Peter the Hermit in his pilgrim robes stood surrounded by the imposing majesty of pope, archbishops, and bishops, and urged the multitude to hasten and do battle against the Saracen. That, indeed, was a stupendous triumph. For when the hermit had forsaken the studious repose of the cloisters for the plains of Palestine, his fondest, wildest day-dreams must have fallen short of this first visible outbreak of religious enthusiasm. An old chronicler declares, that neither Clermont, nor the adjoining towns and villages, could lodge the people who came to hear the hermit's exhortations. The thousands were lashed into the maddest excitement by the tongue of that one man. The pious among the clergy hailed with devout joy this opportunity of propagating the saving doctrines of the cross; the worldly, that of more strongly riveting on the heart of man their own spiritual influence. The most horrible execrations were uttered against the Turks. Their expulsion from the Holy Land

THE CRUSADES.

[ocr errors]

75

was determined on. 'Dieux le volt! Dieux le volt!' shouted the surging multitude. 'Yes,' exclaimed Pope Urban, God willeth it; His divine commandment has been echoed this day by your voices.' Then, elevating a cross before the multitude, he added-Jesus Christ has left his tomb to present you with this symbol-let it be bound on your shoulders and your breasts-let it shine on your banners, and decorate your weapons, that you may always remember that Christ died for you, and that, therefore, it is your bounden duty to die for him.' Again the heaving and agitated mass cried-Dieux le volt!"* The Pope then commanded silence, and the work of absolving the assembly from their sins commenced.

Superstition, as was usual at that period, accompanied this great demonstration. It was firmly believed by the people that their determination to tear

* Wordsworth has finely described this scene

And shall, the pontiff asks, profaneness flow
From Nazareth-source of Christian piety-
From Bethlehem, from the mounts of
agony
And glorified ascension? Warriors, go;
With prayers and blessings we your path will sow;
Like Moses, hold our hands erect, till ye
Have chased far off, by righteous victory,
These sons of Amalek, or laid them low.
'God willeth it,' the whole assembly cry,
Shout which the enraptured multitude astounds!
The council roof and Clermont's towers reply,
'God willeth it,' from hill to hill rebounds,
And in awe-stricken countries far and nigh,
Through Nature's hollow arch the voice resounds.

[blocks in formation]

the unbeliever from the tomb of Christ was instantaneously known in the most remote parts of Europe. The wonderful quickness with which the call for soldiers in the cause was replied to, doubtless gave ground for this belief. The proposed expedition had scarcely been rumoured in England, ere Richard, of courage leonine, buckled on his armour, and took the road of God, as the route to the east was devoutly called.

The results were as mighty as the most fanatical devotee could desire; and to this day the citizens of Clermont are proud that in their city such a mighty movement was originated. Urban II. was not the only Pope who honoured Clermont with a visit. Several of his successors attended councils. Alexander III. presided at that held in 1162, when the Emperor Barbarossa and his adherents were excommunicated; and on several occasions the thunders of the church were hurled from Clermont at kings and princes. And in later times, as I shall have occasion to show, when sovereigns could be no longer persecuted, humble individuals fell beneath the intolerance and oppression of the ghostly power of Clermont.

I was not a little surprised to find that, although a large amount of trade was carried on between Clermont and Paris, English gold was refused. The landlord of our hotel declared that he did not know the value of our sovereign, but he would venture to take it for twenty francs. We had been careful to supply ourselves in Paris with a certain

« PreviousContinue »