She is holding her shawl over her face with her teeth to conceal it as she
passes the man on her left. On the road from Karnak to Luxor.

THE BARBER'S SHOP IN THE CATTLE-MARKET AT LUXOR.

85

122

THE UNJUST STEWARD: THE JUDGE'S COPTIC CLERK

By whom all the corruption of justice is managed in Egypt.

MEN MOURNING

123

This photo was taken at Luxor on the Day of the Conscription. The women
are weeping because their sons have not been pronounced physically unfit
to serve their country.

On the left is Joseph, on the right is one of the splendid troopers of the
Egyptian Mounted Police on a beautiful white Arab. Behind is the great
pylon of Karnak.

AN ARAB MARKET IN A PALM GROVE

142

Bedâwin women in the foreground.

THE RETURN FROM LUXOR MARKET .

143

Showing how strictly Egyptian women envelop themselves in public,

WOMAN HOLDING THE HUGE WOODEN EGYPTIAN DOOR-KEY IN HER

RIGHT HAND

159

Unchanged from the time of Cleopatra. On the road to Heliopolis.

174

PLOUGHING IN THE FAYUM

This is called the Virgilian plough in Italy, and in Egypt has been in use since
the times of the Pharaohs. It is drawn by Egyptian buffaloes. In Cleo-
patra's day Egypt was one of the chief granaries of the Roman Empire.

Which reminds one of the Grand Canal at Venice, and has old palaces in the
Venetian style.

DAMIETTA

195

A mosque, a saint's tomb, and houses hidden behind the stacks of palm
leaves, with which the famous basket-weaving industry of Damietta is carried

on.

210

OLD MOSQUE AT ROSETTA

At Rosetta the mosques are ancient, beautiful, and unrestored. There is
no city in Egypt which has so many unrestored mediæval buildings in good
condition as Rosetta.

ALEXANDRIA

21

Old houses of the Rosetta type—some of the few domestic buildings left of the
ancient village of 5,000 inhabitants out of which Mehemet Ali developed his
great seaport.

216

FACING PAGE THE AVENUE OF SPHINXES AND PTOLEMAIC PYLON AT KARNAK

The old man in the foreground is a Mohammedan saint going through his
religious exercises.

THE KHAN OF THE RED SEA MERCHANTS AT ROSETTA

217

THE CASTLE OF ABUKIR AND THE SCENE OF THE BATTLE OF THE NILE

222

The sea beyond is Abukir Bay, in which Nelson won the Battle of the Nile.
The French held this castle during the battle.

223

A FELLAH'S FARM NEAR KARNAK

In the foreground are a pair of baby buffaloes.

238

A FELLAH FAMILY IN THE FAYUM

This is probably the way in which Joseph and Mary and the Child Jesus went
down into Egypt.

239

PIGEON-TOWERS IN THE FAYUM

In the village at the foot of the Hawara Pyramid.

THE VILLAGE OF KURNA AND ITS FELLAHIN ON THE PLAIN OF THEBES

250

251

GYASSAS ON THE NILE

With the hills of Thebes in the background.

274

KHARGA VILLAGE, IN THE GREAT OASIS OF THE LIBYAN DESERT

Children collected round the village fountain.

275

UNDER PROTEST

To mount a camel a lady needs the assistance of at least three people. The
camel generally roars all the time.

292

A ROMAN CASTLE IN THE GREAT OASIS OF THE LIBYAN DESERT

Which is Herodotus's Island of the Blest.

DOUM PALM AND WELL IN THE ROMAN CASTLE OF THE GREAT OASIS

292

293

ARAB SALUTATIONS

A group of dragomans on the river bank at Luxor, with the hills of Thebes
in the background.

THE TEMPLE OF PTAH AT KARNAK, WHERE THE MOON SHINES ON THE

IMAGE OF THE GODDESS SEKKET

This is the image which the fellahin think is an ogre who devours children.

A NILE VILLAGE

All the way up the Nile one sees reflected in its waters palm groves and
pigeon-towers and the white tombs of saints. One is never out of sight of
a human habitation, hardly for a minute without the presence of human
beings.

PACING PAGB

326

THB STATUE OF MEMNON AT THEBES

It and its fellow are usually called the Colossi of Thebes. They are loftier
than the great Buddha of Kamakura in Japan. The right-hand Colossus is
supposed to be “The Vocal Statue of Memnon." They stood outside the
mortuary temple of King Amen-hetep III., which has now disappeared. At
high Nile the land on which they stand is inundated.

327

THE VALLEY OF THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS AT THEBES

The rocks of the exterior, with their noble architectural effects, are little
less marvellous than the tombs, some of them as long as a great cathedral,
hewn into the heart of the close white limestone, as finely grained as marble,
and frescoed from end to end with the elaborate imagery of the Book of the
Dead.

.

332

THE GAMOOSE, OR BUFFALO

The proverb for stupidity in Egypt.

BOY WORKING A SHADÜF

With the Ramesseum Temple in the background. On the plain of Thebes.

350

DRAGOMAN EXPLAINING CARTOUCHES IN THE TEMPLE OF KOMOMBO

Mohammed, the chief Dragoman of Thomas Cook & Son in Egypt.

SAINT'S TOMB IN THE DESERT BEHIND THE CATARACT HOTEL AT
ASSUAN

On the road to the Great Dam.

365

.

380

AN ASSUAN GALLEY AND THE ISLAND OF ELEPHANTINE.

Taken from my bedroom balcony, in the Cataract Hotel. These galleys are
of an ancient Roman pattern, hardly changed.

A TYPICAL NILE TOWN

381

412

THE TEMPLE OF AMON-RA AT KARNAK

The largest in the world. The ruins of this group are a mile and a half round.
Sir H. Beerbohm Tree's False Gods at His Majesty's bad its principal scene
laid in this temple.

413

THE YOUNG IDEA

Taken at the village just outside Karnak. The idea of these boys is to make
small piastres by stripping to run races or pose for the Kodaker.