FRUITS OF JAFFA. 23 larger, hang on the trees much later, and will bear to be shipped to distant regions. They are, therefore, more valuable to the producer. It is here that you see in perfection fragrant blossoms encircling golden fruit. In March and April these Jaffa gardens are indeed enchanting. The air is overloaded with the mingled per fume of orange, lemon, apple, apricot, quince, plum, and china trees in blossom. The people then frequent the biârah, sit on mats beneath the grateful shade, sip coffee, smoke the nargileh, sing, converse, or sleep, as best suits their individual idiosyncrasies, till evening, when they slowly return to their homes in the city. To us of the restless West this way of making kaif soon wearies by its slumberous monotony, but it is elysium to the Oriental. Are these orchards remunerative in a pecuniary point of view? I am informed that they yield ten per cent. on the capital invested, clear of all expense. Our friend Mr. Murad tells me that a biârah which costs 100,000 piastres will produce annually 15,000; but 5000 of this must be expended in irrigation, ploughing, planting, and manuring. This allows the proprietor 10,000 piastres, which is a fair profit on capital invested in agricultural pursuits. April 5th. I can hardly realize that I am in the land where the Patriarchs dwelt; and so many things, new and strange, solicit attention at every turn, that I feel bewildered, and know not with what to begin. Naturally enough, and under such circumstances, the inquiry, "How best to observe?" is eminently appropriate. Many travellers pass rapidly through this country with eyes that see not and hearts that cannot understand. Such had better remain away, since they learn nothing worth knowing in return for weary days, sleepless nights, and general discomfort. One short rule will save you from such a result-be ever on the watch, and allow nothing novel or strange to pass unquestioned. As to asking questions, I shall need neither rule nor prompter. Half a dozen are seeking a solution this very minute. Remember this is our first walk in the Land of Promise-a land of promises scarcely less interesting to me than were those given to the Father of the Faithful, when the Lord said unto him, "Arise, walk through the land, in the length of it and in the breadth of it, for I will give it unto thee." To walk thus through the land is the exact purport of my visit, and I mean to make it mine from Dan to Beersheba before I leave it. Do you expect to gain such an inheritance as this in a few months? Abraham himself never set foot on one-tenth of this territory, and Moses only got a bird's-eye view of it—not a bad one, though, if the day was as intensely clear as this. One seems to look quite to the bottom of heaven's profoundest azure, "where MOSES'S VIEW OF THE PROMISED LAND.-ORIENTAL FAIR. 25 the everlasting stars abide." Through such utter transparency did the Lord show unto Moses, from the top of Mount Abarim, "all the land of Gilead unto Dan, and all Naphtali, and the land of Ephraim and Manasseh, and all the land of Judah unto the utmost sea, and the south, and the plain of the valley of Jericho, the city of palmtrees, unto Zoar." Nor need there have been any miracle in the matter. Though a hundred and twenty years old, "his eye was not dim, nor his natural force abated." Nor is it necessary to climb where Moses stood, for I can guide you to many a Pisgah on Hermon and Lebanon from whence the view is far more extensive. At present my attention is wholly occupied by things immediately around me. Before entering the city, let us stop and study this motley crowd of busy townsfolk, country peasants, and foreign pilgrims, strangely intermingled among camels, horses, mules, and belligerent donkeys-a very Babel of confusion, every one for himself, and each and all ambitious to make the loudest noise possible. It is probably market-day, and you have before you a veritable Oriental fair. There is no room in the city for such a gathering, and it is, therefore, held here, in this large open space outside the entrance. You may well study it with attention, for you will meet with none of equal interest in all our rambles through the land. Lemons and oranges, pomegranates and quinces, apples and apricots, and all kinds of fruits and vegetables, in their season, which these extensive gardens produce, are here exposed for sale. The fellahin, also, from the villages bring their sheep and goats, their lambs and kids, their cows and calves, their milk and butter and cheese, their poultry and eggs, their figs and olives, and every other kind of fruit, fresh or dry, which they possess; in baskets or round trays or small earthen jugs, in jars or large skin-bottles, on camels or mules, or horse or donkey, on the heads of men or boys, women or girls, are they brought and set down here to be sold. With the proceeds in hand they enter the city and shop, spending their gains, and carrying home with them in return every conceivable article that domestic necessity requires or fancy suggests for per sonal adornment. It is indeed a novel and picturesque scene, unlike anything I judge from their rags and squalid appearance. The sight reminds one of Dorcas, and the widows exhibiting to Peter the coats and garments which that benevolent lady had made. It is much to be desired that she might rise again from the dead, at least in spirit, for a dozen Dorcas societies are needed in Jaffa at the present time. CITY GATE, AND BIBLICAL ALLUSIONS TO IT. 27 The case is not as bad as it looks. Many of these peasants are in comfortable circumstances, and pinching poverty and absolute want are rare. We can spare no more time for this spectacle, however, entertaining as it may be to you. Let us enter the city. I wish to show you the most striking architectural object in Jaffa. This "void place" in front of what was formerly Jaffa's only gate was then the great place of concourse, especially in the afternoon and evening. Stop a moment. A city gate is a novelty to me, and I must examine in detail a structure so often mentioned in the Bible. What is there in a mere city gate to attract attention? Very little, perhaps, to one who has passed in and out daily for so many years; but many Biblical incidents connect themselves with gates. Almost every city of ancient celebrity had them, and they were places of great importance. They were, indeed; and, although customs have changed in this respect, there is still enough CITY GATE. |