Page images
PDF
EPUB

when nearly every public transaction took place at or near the city gates. Jaffa has burst her shell by the force of sudden expansion, and will soon have neither wall nor gates; but several other cities in Syria and Palestine are still protected by these venerable safeguards.

And thus it was in ancient days. I remember that righteous Lot, intent on deeds of hospitality, sat in the gate of Sodom towards the close of day, somewhat as these Arabs are now seated, I suppose, and thereby he obtained the privilege of entertaining unawares those angels who saved him from the destruction of that wicked city. It was at the gate of Kirjath-arba, which is Hebron, that Abraham completed the contract for the cave of Machpelah, in the presence of the children of Heth, before all that went in at the gate of the city." It was at the same place that Hamor and Shechem negotiated that fatal treaty with all that went in at the gate of the city,' which gave opportunity to those fierce and treacherous brethren, Simeon and Levi, with instruments of cruelty to work out their revenge. "Cursed be their anger, for it was fierce; and their wrath, for it was cruel.""

Since this very unpretending entrance to Jaffa is leading into a long discussion, let us prepare ourselves a seat, as Job did when he went out to the gate, and then we can talk at our leisure, and our ease as well. You observe that the gate-way is vaulted, shady, and cool. This is one reason why people delight to assemble about it. Again, the curious and vain resort thither to see and be seen. Some go to meet their associates; others, to watch for returning friends, or to accompany those about to depart; while many gather there to hear the news, or to engage in trade and traffic. You remember the commandment of Moses, "Judges and officers shalt thou make thee in all thy gates.' The phrase, "in all thy gates," occurs four times in that sixteenth chapter alone, and elsewhere so often as to imply that it was a proverbial expression, current among the Hebrew people in all ages. There is no equivalent in our language, for the simple reason that there never has been a state of society among us that could suggest it. But this is just one of

[ocr errors]

1 Gen. xix. 1; Heb. xiii. 2. 4 Gen. xlix. 5, 7.

2 Gen. xxiii. 17, 18.
5 Job xxix. 7.

3 Gen. xxxiv. 20, 24. Deut. xvi. 18.

CITY GATE, AND BIBLICAL ALLUSIONS TO IT.

29

those incidental allusions to the social condition of the people that rendered gates and bars among the first essentials of existence, which we know, from historic sources, prevailed all over this land. Every considerable town was walled, and had gates, which were always shut at night. Within these gates everything of value that could be stolen had to be brought herds and flocks, camels and servants-the entire community, in fact, with all they possessed. Hence the reasonableness of the oft-repeated command, that all within thy gates, including the stranger, the fatherless, and the widow, should participate in the great feasts and in the blessed rest of the Sabbath—an enactment as beautiful as it is humane.

I have often been reminded of this phrase, and that which suggested it, when in Sidon, Tyre, Acre, and other walled towns of this country. As the sun goes down, you see along every converging lane and pathway men and women, flocks and herds, all hastening towards the city gates; for such is the state of insecurity, even at the present day, that nothing left outside and unguarded is safe from robbers that are ever prowling around the country. Again, each considerable hâret, or ward, of a city had separate gates for itself, by which the inhabitants were shut in from every other part—an ancient custom, still retained in Damascus and other large and turbulent cities. Another very ancient custom will further illustrate the feeling of insecurity that pervades all Oriental society. Every palace and important house has an external court, with its gate; and there is always a particular servant, called el bowâb, or porter, whose special duty it is to watch the gate and answer the calls at its portal. To this, as you know, there are many allusions in Biblical narratives; and it is always both pleasant and profitable to meet with such illustrations in the manners and customs of the present day.

In 1834 I resided for several months in this city, and, to pass away the time, frequently came out, in the afternoon, "to the gate through the city, and prepared my seat in the street." There the governor, the kâdy, and the elders of the people assembled daily, "in a void place," and held an extemporaneous divân, at which affairs of every kind were discussed and settled with the least possible ceremony.

But recently from America, I was greatly amused

with this novel open-air court, conducted amidst the din, confusion, and uproar of a thronged gate-way-men, women, and children jostling each other; horses prancing, camels growling, donkeys braying, as they passed in and out of the gate; but nothing could interrupt the proceedings, or disturb the judicial gravity of the court. The whole scene, with all its surroundings, was wholly Oriental, and withal had about it an air of remote antiquity, which rendered it doubly interesting. Throughout sacred history, poetry, and prophecy, the gate is celebrated for and connected with numberless interesting incidents and allusions. It would require a little volume to notice and explain them all; but here we have the thing itself, with "a void place in the entrance of the gate," like that where Boaz made the elders of Bethlehem sit while he contracted for Ruth, the fair Moabitess; where Eli sat trembling for the ark of God, and fell back and broke his neck when tidings of its capture came.3 And here are the two doors of the gate, and the posts, and the bars, and the bolts, like those of Gaza, which Samson tore from their sockets, and on his shoulders carried up to the top of a hill that is before Hebron." And over this gate is a chamber, like that to which David went and wept; “and as he went, thus he said, O my son Absalom! my son, my son Absalom! would God I had died for thee, O Absalom, my son, my son!"

It is not difficult to comprehend why public proclamations were made in the gates, and why prophets so often pronounced their messages there. We read of the gates of righteousness, because justice and judgment were there decreed and executed; and so, likewise, the prophets denounced the oppression of the poor in the gate, where corrupt judges sold justice to the highest bidder. "They afflict the just, they take a bribe, and they turn aside the poor in the gate from their right;" and to this refers the exhortation, "Hate the evil, and love the good, and establish judgment in

[blocks in formation]

From the repeated allusions in the Proverbs to religious discussions in the streets, in the chief places of concourse, in the open.

[merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][ocr errors][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small][merged small]

CITY GATE, AND BIBLICAL ALLUSIONS TO IT.

31 ings of the gates, in the top of the high places, and the like, we learn that it was customary, in Solomon's day, to hold such conversations and discourses in the open air, and in a very public manner. The same was true in classic Greece and Rome. In the East the habits of the people, in this respect, remain unchanged, especially in districts remote from foreign influence. There is commonly some locality in or about villages and small towns where the people assemble to discuss every topic of general interest, be it social or civil, educational or religious. Where there are no gates, the street, or the open space in the centre of the hamlet, answers the purpose. Solomon, therefore, does not violate even modern Oriental custom when he represents Wisdom crying aloud and exhorting in the chief place of concourse, in the openings of the gates, or in the street itself.1

Again, gates were fortified in the strongest possible manner. In them the people trusted for safety, and they naturally became the synonyme for strength and power. "Thou shalt call thy walls Salvation, and thy gates Praise." Hence the prophets delighted to personify them. In times of calamity they languish and lament, mourn and howl; they sing, shout, and rejoice in prosperity. The Lord loveth the gates of Zion; and David exclaims, "Lift up your heads, O ye gates; and be ye lift up, ye everlasting doors; and the King of glory shall come in.' And remembering that all, both great and small, must enter by them, it is not far-fetched or unnatural to speak of the gates of death. And who has not felt the solemn admonition, "Strive to enter in at the strait gate,” and trembled lest he should be swept along by the thoughtless multitude through the wide gate that leadeth to destruction? I have seen these strait gates and narrow ways, with here and there a traveller. They are in retired corners, and must be sought for, and are opened only to those who knock; and when the sun goes down and the night comes on, they are shut and locked. It is then too late."

I see we shall never get into the city, if we sit here conversing about gates until the subject is exhausted; but allow me to remark,

1 Prov. i. 20, 21; viii. 3; ix. 3.

3 Psa. xxiv. 7.

Isa. lx. 18.

Matt. vii. 13; Luke xiii. 24, 25.

as we enter, that gates have the same kind of names now as in ancient times, generally derived from some accidental circumstance connected with them. One is Bab es Seraih, because the governor's palace is near it. One is Bab el Bahr, because it leads to the sea. That near which the tanners carry on their business is Bab ed Dubbâgâ. And thus, too, the streets and different quarters of the city derive their names, for those who follow the same trade congregate in the same street; and one is saddlers', the next blacksmiths' street, and so on to the end of the list.

Here is the fountain which I promised to show you. With its hexagonal cupola and surrounding courts, it is the most picturesque edifice in the city. Jaffa is singularly destitute of architectural adornment; and this is the only building having the slightest claims to even Saracenic beauty.

It is really quite striking, not to say peculiar, and crowded with. admirable specimens of Arab countenances and costumes the counterpart, in miniature, of the scene and the actors we have just been contemplating outside the gate.

I will now leave you to visit, during the day, other places of interest. Salîm will be your guide. He is perfectly familiar with all the sites and scenes you will want to explore. In the evening I shall expect to get a report of your rambles and impressions.

April 5th. Evening.

I hope your wanderings through the city to-day have been successful and pleasant.

My report will be brief-not, however, from lack of interest in the places which we visited. I directed Salîm to take me to the highest part of Jaffa, that I might get a general view of the place and its immediate surroundings. Nearly the entire city occupies the north and north-west sides of the small cape on which it stands, the houses rising tier above tier from the very verge of the sea. The declivity is so precipitous that the flat roofs of the lower tier of houses form the terrace in front of those above, and the ascent and descent along the narrow streets is one continual stair-way. The prospect from our out-look was extensive and interesting: southward, beyond the quarantine grounds, over the rolling plain of

« PreviousContinue »