son says that you were so frightened last [ that I record, I must needs confess that I Sunday when Miss Fanny banged the have often since wasted the hours of door, that you coloured up." prayer and praise at a riper age, and with less temptation.

"Mrs. Sampson! what business is it of hers?" exclaimed Mr. Smith angrily.

"But I said I was sure you were not," I continued, looking up into his face, and lo! the healthy brown cheeks were glowing with a clear red, which suffused his face and mounted up into his temples. Mr. Smith had "coloured up" again.

"There never was such a plague of a needle,” said he angrily. “I don't believe it has any eye at all. There, take it, child!"

Our tutor sat at the door of the pew in full view of us both; his collars were starched, his gloves well-fitting, the whole man arrayed in that somewhat costly, plain, substantial, and wholly becoming manner peculiar to an English gentleman. We were early-we were always earlyfor we started by his watch, and he took care to allow plenty of time for the walk. As I sat with my little feet upon the hassock, I used to watch every opening of the door, and mark whose entrance he looked up to watch, and who of the waiting congregation watched him.

So saying he flung the work over to me, and starting up began to walk vehemently up and down. I knew that something troubled him and made him restless; and seeing him marching about fretting himself, I did not dare to say a word, but I told Snap what I had heard, and Snap was in an ecstacy, and turned head over heels several times his usual way of testify-ers behind them - these he never failed to ing approbation.

Oh, how jolly!" said Snap; "that's what I always wished to see people do. Why, Dolly, don't you know in all the plays and the poetry people are in love? but I have never found any real persons yet who were. Mr. Smith and Miss Fanny are in love, I'm sure. Now we'll see what they do."

Poor Mr. Smith! what an agreeable surveillance this promised him. But he remained happily unaware of the interest he was exciting; he did not know how if he sighed, which he did very often, Snap whispered to me, "That's all right, he is thinking about Miss Fanny." Nor how, if he appeared to be in low spirits, we speculated as to whether his lady love had been unkind.

The clergyman and his wife would enter. Mr. Smith always mechanically followed with his eyes the former to the vestry, the latter to her pew; then the few Sundayschool children would bustle in, their teach

observe with interest; then the farmers and their wives, and the few labourers, would stalk with their hob-nailed shoes down the brick floors and the aisles-all these his eyes followed. But then there would be a pause; and invariably the last, as we were the first, the Squire's family would approach. That slow door would swing on its hinges, and a steady step would come on, followed by other footsteps, soft, and with the rustling of silks accompanying them, together with a certain gentle urgency of quickness, as if the owners wished to be settled in their pew before the clergyman reached his desk. The skirts of those silken dresses would brush against the door of our pew, within an inch or two of his arm, which leaned upon it; the long curls and the veil would nearly touch his shoulder. But for these fellow-worship

I have not said anything hitherto con-pers Mr. Smith never raised his eyes; they cerning the church which we attended. It was two miles off, on the confines of the common; but until this time I had not felt any particular interest in the service, for I did not understand our old vicar's sermons, and our pew had high sides, so that I could see nothing. When, however, our party became larger by the tutor, and Amy began to go to church, a fresh pew was awarded to my mother one in a part of the aisle which had been newly seated, and in which we could both see and hear perfectly well.

Now in describing what we did in that pew for several Sundays one after the other, let me explain that I only chronicle -I do not excuse; and at the same time

remained as if glued to the floor. He rose with the rest of the congregation, he knelt, he sat, the heavy lids unlifted; and we used to watch him to see how long it would be before he would raise his head and look up; when he did, it was always a hurried, troubled glance, always to the same place-Miss Fanny's place. But be it known that Miss Fanny evinced no symptoms whatever of suffering under the same kind of trouble. She could look anywhere, and she did. Sometimes she looked at Mr. Smith; and if by a rare chance she caught his eye, she remained calm and unruffled, though he was changing from pale to red with agitated feeling.

From The Cornhill Magazine.
WANDERINGS IN JAPAN.

I.

THE rainy season was over, but not the rain. It had been an unusually wet year, even for Japan, and we, the inhabitants of the plain of Yedo, had been living in the midst of mire and slosh not to be described. Stewed for weeks in a moist, unhealthy heat, shaving-tackle, knives, and guns were covered with rust unpleasant to the touch; boots and shoes bore a rich crop of unwholesome fungus; and such portions of our crazy wood-and-paper built cottages as had been spared by the violence of a recent typhoon smelt of mould and damp: the very people one met in the streets looked mildewed and sodden, as if being hung out to dry would have done them, as well as their clothes, a world of good. It was evident that, for health's sake, a trip to the hills had become necessary, and accordingly I determined to make a start of it.

Japan they brought dogs with them and. hearing them call out, "Come-here! Comehere!" when their pets strayed, the natives took it into their heads that "Come-here," could mean nothing but dog.

Travelling westward along the great high-road, and leaving the port of Yokohama on our left, we halted for the night at the village of Totsuka, some four-andtwenty miles from Yedo. Having seen my horse rubbed down and bedded. I strolled out to smoke a cheroot. The day's work being over, the country-folk were standing about their doors in picturesque groups the men for the most part naked to the waist, and fresh from the bath, the women almost always tidy, and sometimes even smart-enjoying the cool of the evening and chatting away in eager idleness, bestowing little or no notice upon the foreigner, whose presence among them has during the last ten years become a matter of familiarity: in sad contrast to their cheery rest, the unhappy inmates of the village stew were bedizening Being anxious to make my trip a means and painting themselves for the night, and of collecting some of the old legends with sitting down wearily at the open window which the country along which my route lay to attract the attention of travellers. At abounds, I persuaded a native scholar in my one of these highroad pleasure-houses, byemploy, named Shiraki, to come with me. the-by, I once saw a very melancholy He being a Samurai, or man of gentle sight; an unhappy girl, driven to despair blood, did not like to confess that he was in her loathing of the life to which she had no horseman, and having ascertained that been sold, had contrived to make her eshe could procure a confidential nag of cape, in spite of the argus-eyed watching quiet manners, given neither to kicking, of her owner; she was caught and brought shying, nor running away, put a bold face back, and to punish her, having been upon the matter, and professed delight at beaten and ill-used, she was bound hand the idea. As for my Chinese servant, Lin and foot, and exposed in that condition in Fu, I felt no uneasiness on his score; he the front of the house, as a warning to was as adaptable as moist clay, and those of her mates who might attempt to whether riding on an ordinary saddle or follow her example. Turning down a on a pack-horse, or pinched up in a native country lane, I came upon a rustic scene of palanquin, he was equally at home and no little beauty. In the foreground was a equally happy. My groom and three of farm-house, warmly thatched and cosy. the Bettégumi, a native corps raised some looking, in front of which Miss O Hana, years back to escort, protect, and spy upon the Flower, was drawing water at the well foreigners, completed the party. Stay - and exchanging a friendly greeting with I had forgotten one most important com- the laborious Genkichi, who, hoe on shoulpanion, at any rate the one that created der, was trudging home from his work in the greatest sensation by the way, and the the fields. Round and about the house only one besides myself that understood were rich groves of fir and pine, cryptoEnglish my dog Lion, a black retriever meria and bamboo, and among these ran a of great beauty, born of English parents mound, called, as such hillocks usually are, some eighteen months back in this distant after Fuji Yama the Peerless Mountain, land. As he went frisking and gambolling commanding a noble view over hill and along the road, the women and children vale, richly endowed by nature, and turned would cry out in astonishment, "Oya! to good account by the handiwork of man oya! Look at the barbarian and his Every available square foot of land is 'Come-here!' Kirei da ne! What a made to bear its tribute of rice, millet, pretty creature!" The Japanese believe buckwheat, or vegetables, and the hill-sides that "Come-here!" is English for a dog, are richly clothed with valuable timber. for when our countrymen first reached For the Japanese husbandman is a hard

working and industrious soul, toiling early | ing his host and the myrmidons of the inn and late, chiefly to make sure the rice-crop, still singing the imperial praises. of which he, poor man, may scarcely get a taste. Sic vos non vobis! He must content himself with coarse fare - millet, buck-wheat, and a piece of salted turnipradish for a relish.

We now left the great high-road, and struck off to the left into a country lane. The rains had left the roads in a sad state. The horses could hardly struggle through the deep mire of thick holding clay out of which they drew their hoofs with a noise as of sucking. The little Japanese pones

Having given time for Lin Fu to arrive with the coolies bearing the baggage, unpack the same and prepare my dinner-managed pretty well; but my own beast, for on the journey he, handiest of men, is cook, and no mean cook either, in addition to his other functions-I return to mine inn to take such ease as may be found where there are neither tables, nor chairs, nor beds. The mats, soft indeed and white (but nimium ne crede colori) serve all purposes: on them we squat and eat; on them we lie down and sleep, when the fleas exceptionally hungry and poisonous, with which they swarm, will allow us a few moments' respite.

October 7th. The clouds that had been gathering round the mountain-tops the night before were still hanging gloomily over the landscape when I awoke and looked out. A threatening, ugly morning. However, it wanted three good hours yet of our starting-time, so I squatted down and tried to write some letters, intending to send a man to catch the mail at Yokahama. But cramp interfered with iron hand for it is no easy matter to write sitting on the floor without desk or tableand the letters which reached home by that ship were of the briefest.

a heavy, big-boned Australian, sank up to his knees nearly at every step, and I was forced to dismount and lead him - much to the joy of my friend Shiraki, who was glad enough of an excuse to follow my example. In this manner we slipped and slid along for about seven miles of lovely scenery, hill and dale, rice-fields (the crop, alas! not ripening), and woodland. Many a shrine or holy niche stands by the wayside or crowns some picturesque hilltop, to which a flight of steps ascends. Nothing can be prettier than the scenery of these valleys. They are on a small scale, it is true, and it may be said against them that each dell is to the last as one Dromio is to the other; but they are so bright and green, and the banks between which they lie are so charmingly wooded, with such varied tints in the foliage (especially while the autumn glory of the maples lasts), that the eye never wearies of looking upon them.

Among these hills lies the site of the ancient city of Kamakura, which we presently reach.

At nine o'clock, after I had finished my In the middle of the seventh century breakfast of tea and eggs, Shiraki came in of our era there lived a certain prince to say that horses and men were ready. A whose name was Kamadari. He was the shout of O Dékaké! -"the Imperial going most powerful noble of his day and in high forth" is raised by Shiraki and taken favour at court. Now it happened that, up in chorus by landlord, guards, maids, having been sent by the Emperor to uncoolies, and all the idle folk about the inn, dertake a pilgrimage to the shrine of and out I stalk, walking through a perfect Kashima in the province of Shimosa he avenue of obeisances, with a feeling of shy-rested by the way at the village of Yui in ness which not even long use of eastern Sagami, and as he slept he dreamt a courtesies has sufficed to remove. Now a Japanese can always look dignified under these circumstances, having a signal advantage indeed over the European; for he who would occupy the best rooms at a Japanese inn must take off his boots on entering the house, out of respect for the mats, which it would be treason to sully; and I hold it to be very difficult for a man to appear at his ease, listening to a whole string of obsequious compliments whilst he is struggling into a pair of butcher boots; Prince Kamadari, who traced his dewhile a Japanese shuffles on his sandals, scent in direct line to the gods, died in the which are handed to him by his sandal- year 669 A.D. Immediately before his bearer kneeling, and mounts his horse death the Emperor visited him in person, with the most supreme indifference, leav-and conferred upon him the family name

dream, in which he was miraculously warned to go and bury the precious sickle (kama), which was the badge of his name, at the pine mount on Mount Okura. This he did in obedience to the warning which he had received, and from that time forth the name of the place was changed from Okura (the great storehouse) to Kamakura (or the sickle storehouse) from kama, a sickle, and kura, a place of safety, or storehouse.

of Fujiwara and the dignity of Taijokwan, | old world lore, knowing and loving every an honour which had never been given be-stone and nook within his jurisdiction, of fore and has never been given since. For which he would willingly do the honours, Kamadari had rendered great and signal thereby saving me from the clutches of a service to the empire in former years by certain guide, an old man of the sea, a bore ridding it of a certain minister named Isu- of bores, cursed with that peculiar droning ka, who, during the reign of the Empress voice which is the characteristic of the Kôgoku (642-644 A.D.) had usurped the professed cicerone all the world over. power and contrived to make himself a kind of dictator in the land.

Enter the mayor, a neat, cleanly shaved old man, modestly dressed, as becomes his station, in the plain grey taffachelass robe worn by the middle class, his dirk being politely left outside the door. Down he goes on his knees and head, drawing a long hissing breath in token of respect.

"Sa! Shiraki! call for some tea," (Shiraki claps his hands) "and offer our guest a cheroot."

After their father's death the sons of Kamadari came to great honour. From the eldest son sprang the five families in which were hereditarily vested the offices of Kwambaku, or Prime Minister of the Mikado, and Sesshô, or Regent, during the Mikado's minority, both of which offices, by-the-by, have been abolished under the new political system which began in 1868. "Thank you, sir, thank you! this is inThe second son was appointed governor deed difficult to obtain. Interesting, truly of the eight provinces of Kwantó, and interesting," says the mayor, twisting took up his residence here at Kamakura, about the cheroot in his fingers. But he which from that time forth until the 16th does not like it all the same, and after century, became the military capital of the painfully smoking a puff or two he knocks eastern division of the empire. When the out the fire, and having rolled up the end family of Hôjô became all-powerful in the in a bit of paper, stows it away in his land, they transferred the seat of the gov-bosom to be taken home as a curiosity. ernment of the east to their own castle- “Well Mr. Mayor, we've come all this town of Odawara at the foot of the Hakoné way to see the meisho,' the lions of range of mountains, and Kamakura gradu- Kamakura, and under the shadow of so ally fell into ruins. It is now a mere dis- famous an antiquary we look forward to trict consisting of thirteen villages, and, much enjoyment." excepting the temples, not a trace remains of its former splendour. This is to be accounted for by the ephemeral character of Japanese houses, which being built of wood and paper, once having fallen are swept away and no more seen. If the city of Yedo, vast as it is, were to be abandoned and allowed to go to rack and ruin, fifty years hence the walls of the castle, and, perhaps a temple or two would probably be the only vestiges left to mark its site.

It being my purpose to spend a couple of days among the groves and holy places of Kamakura, I put up at the not too clean inn which is at the foot of the great temple of Hachiman. A fat, good-natured Maritornes, sore afflicted with the national complaint, the itch, prepared a cup of tea, and having set before us certain thin, greasy biscuits something like wafers, announced that the Nanushi, or mayor of the village, was anxious to come and pay us a visit. Right glad was I to bid Shiraki go and welcome his worship, for he had been described to me as a perfect storehouse of

Kwanto, or "East of the Barrier," is the name given to the provinces of Musashi, Sagami, Awa, Kadzusa, Shenosa, Hitachi, Kotsuke, and Shimo

teuke.

66

Nay, nay, sir! I am but a dull old fellow, a very rusty blade; still if you will condescend to accept my poor guid ance, I shall be glad of the honour of offering myself as your pilot."

And so we sally forth from our inn, the good mayor leading the way.

The chief of the sites of Kamakura is the glorious old temple of Hachiinan. Its groves, lotus ponds, stone stairs, heavyeaved shrines, rich with relics of bygone ages, Albino horses sacred to the gods, uncanny pink-eyed beasts, waxing fat upon the beans offered by pious pilgrims; all these have been described by every trav eller that has visited the spot, nor need I dwell upon their beauties or oddities here. My object is chiefly to set before future travellers, in as intelligible a manner as possible, a few notes which may enable them to appreciate the interest which attaches to places along a route which they are sure to follow.

The latter half of the 12th century was one of the most important epochs of Japanese history, for during that time raged the war between the rival houses of Gen and Hei (a civil war with which our own wars of the Roses may in some sense be compared), which ended in the victory of

of which are occupied by small altars, in which are laid up sacred litters for the gods and relics, such as swords, portions of garments, pieces of armour, and other like curiosities, which belonged to Yoritomo, Yoritsuné, Takauji, and other heroes of the brave old days.

the House of Gen, of which Minamoto nodigenous religion of the country, which is Yoritomo was the chief. When he had a form of hero-worship. The main shrine conquered his enemies and made himself is in the centre of a square, the three sides all-powerful in the land, he established himself at Kamakura, which he made the military capital of Japan, and shortly afterwards, in the year 1192, he was created Sei I Tai Shogun, or Barbarian-repressing Commander-in-chief, being the first who held that title, which foreigners call more shortly"Tycoon." From that time forth until the year 1868, the Emperor, or Mikado, became a cypher, the executive being in the hands of his commander-inchief, and so it was that we heard inany fallacies about spiritual and temporal einperors.

All this portion of the temple was burnt down about forty years ago, and rebuilt, but the pagoda and other sacred buildings below the grand stone steps are ancient. Although built of wood, they have been continually kept in repair, so that they stand now as they stood in the time of the splendour of Yoritomo.

In those days there stood at a place called Tsurugaoka, at Yui, a certain an- On the left-hand side the steps are overcient temple in honour of the Emperor shadowed by a tree of venerable aspect, Ojin, deified as the God of War, whom the of the species called Ichô, (Salisburia adiBuddists have identified as their own Mars, amtifolia, Hepburn's Dict.) -a tree of Hachiman, not on account of any deeds of bloody memory, for under it was commitdaring he performed by himself, but be-ted one of those crimes which stain the cause it was when she was with child, be- history of the Middle Ages in all counfore bringing him into the world, that his tries. mother, the famous Empress Jingô, conquered the Coreans, in the third century A.D., having first girt herself up and miraculously delayed her confinement until she had gained the mastery over her enemies. This shrine, in the year 1191, Yoritomo caused to be removed to his own capital at Kamakura, where it was established in its present site.

In the year 1199 Yoritomo died, leaving behind him two sons, Yoriiyé and Sanétomo. The elder of these two, Yoriiyé, a youth eighteen years of age, succeeded his father as lord over the warriors of the country; but he was a foolish prince, and gave himself up to debauchery and drunkenness, being encouraged in his evil courses by his mother's father, Hôjô Tokimasa, who Three gods are specially worshipped at seized upon the real power. Two years the temple. First and foremost, occupying later the Emperor invested Yoriiyé with the place of honour in the centre shrine, at the full rank of Shogun, which had been the head of the steps, is the god Hachiman. held by his father, but none the less did On the right is an altar dedicated to his Tokimasa continue to be master. Yoriiyé mother the Empress Jingo, and on the left chafed under the yoke that was put upon is another altar, sacred to the Princess him, and the city of Kamakura was disOnaka. I have before me now one of the traught by plots and counterplots, the Shorude prints of the god Hachiman which are gun being the head of one faction, whilst sold on the spot; he is represented as a his mother and great-grandfather led the fierce warrior, with very slanting eyes, other. Not a little bloodshed ensued, and with a beard and moustache grotesquely among the victims, Yoriiye's infant son was trimmed, bearing a bow and arrows, and put to death by his own grandfather. clad, not, as might have been expected, in Shortly after this outrage, Tokimasa spread armour, but in the flowing robes and a report that the Shogun was conspiring quaint cap which make up the costume of against his life, and having seized the perthe court. On the left of the chief son of Yoriiyé, he forced him to shave his shrine is a lesser one, in honour of a head and retire from the world into the hero called Takenouchi Sukuné, a war- priesthood. Nor was his vengeance yet rior who accompanied the Empress Jingo satisfied, for in the following year he sent in her expedition to Corea, and afterwards a man-at-arms to the Temple where Yorserved her by ridding her of a pretender iiyé abode, with orders to kill him; and to the throne. He has been canonized as the man having watched his opportunity, Kôra Miyojin, or Tamadaré no Kami. The cast a rope about the neck of the former two gods on the left and right of the gate Shogun as he lay in his bath and strangled are called Toyoiwamado and Kushiwama- him. In this way he died, being only twendo; they are deities of the Shintô, or in-ty-three years of age.