future husband pays the father a stipulated sum, and, on an appointed day, all parties interested in the event assist at the solemnization. The bride then repairs to the mansion of the bridegroom, where she is subjected to a scrutiny, which the language of civilization has no terms to describe. It is the result of this inspection which renders the contract binding, or completely annuls it. In the event of its dissolution, it is at the option of the bridegroom to avail himself of the privileges of a husband, and afterwards to send back the lady to her father, with every mark of contumely and disgrace.

The personal ornaments of the wealthier classes are extremely splendid and elegant; but nothing is more revolting than the appearance of such as roam the public streets. In addition to the squalid rags which clothe the rest of their figure, a linen mask hangs from the nose, resembling in colour and substance the graceful pendants that are occasionally borne by the hackney-coach horses in London.

There are some alarming dissenters lately sprung up in the Mahometan church, which are far more likely to prove fatal to the establishment, than any other of the numerous sects, that indulge in the fren

zies of speculation. Soon after our arrival here, we had the honour to dine in company with one of the orthodox party, whose sensitive organs it was my misfortune to excite, in no common degree, by merely alluding to these heretics, and by stating that I had perused with some attention many passages in the Koran. The zealous Moslem instantly started from table with every symptom of horror, affirming with much indignation, that so sacred a composition must have suffered deep pollution from the sacrilegious touch of a Christian. Upon being assured that I entertained full as bad an opinion of the Wahabees as himself, and that moreover I had not the most remote idea of defiling his faith, he suffered himself to be assuaged, and resumed, with becoming dignity, his place in the circle.

Our host, who has the reputation of being extremely wealthy, is not entirely free from that disgusting sufficiency, which is the usual accompaniment of commercial opulence. He is however scarcely turned of twenty, and can therefore be hardly considered as matured. Some ludicrous traits in his carriage are certainly rather prominent; but every one who can descend to the practice may easily find

some blemish in another's conduct, to furnish materials for sarcasm. I should mention as a proof of our friend's aspiration for something beyond the ordinary distinctions of riches, that he very early betrayed an attachment to literature, and has actually translated Volney's Travels, from an Italian version, into his native Arabic.

We have engaged a bark to carry us up the river to Cairo, and hope to reach that capital in three or four days.-I will take the first opportunity of writing from thence. In the mean time I leave a large packet with our Consul here, who can easily convey it to Alexandria, where there is a regular communication with the ports of France and Italy.

Adieu, my dear Chevalier, and believe me ever, with great truth and regard, &c.

LETTER II.

TO SIR G. ET, BART.

Grand Cairo, Sept. 1817.

"J'ai pris un soin particulier de conserver mes impressions premières, pour donner à mes récits le seul mérite qu'ils pussent avoir, celui de la vérité."-VOLNEY.

DEAR E

A PLEASANT sail up the Nile brought us, at the end of five days, to the port of Boulac, distant about two miles from the centre of Grand Cairo. We left Damietta on the 10th instant, in a boat provided expressly by the Aga's interference: it was a large and commodious vessel, carrying two sails, and having an awning at the stern, arranged something in the same manner as the treckschuyts in Holland.

The river, which at the point where we embarked seemed scarcely wider than the Thames at Brentford, became sensibly increased in proportion as we receded from its embouchure. On each side the country presents a flat unbroken surface, bounded only by the horizon; yet, if the eye is fatigued by the monotony of an extended view, it is refreshed by those objects which are more immediately within its range; vessels richly freighted throng the channel-the banks are chequered with variegated shrubs-and on the eastern shore there are several small towns and villages. The first considerable place is called Faresquri; the minarets rising in the midst of date trees, and the barracks and other public buildings which range along the water's edge, give it externally a gay and dressed appearance; but the interior is deformed by all those varied impurities, which an oppressive barbarism entails universally on the wretched inhabitants.

The mistrale, or north-west wind, blows during this season of the year at regularly recurring intervals, and ceases almost entirely at the commencement of twilight. As it was hopeless to contend with the strength of the current, we anchored off a small village on the left bank, where we passed the night free from