the hamlet of Unter-Laret, where there is a little lake, the Schwarze-See. A little farther on is St Wolfgang, at the top of the pass, 5336 feet above the level of the sea. From this point we descend through woods, and skirt the bank of the Davos-See, a lake 1 mile in length, abounding in fish. A few minutes farther on, at the south end of the lake, is Davos-Dorfli, where passengers by diligence dine Hotels: Kurhaus Davos-Dorfli), a pleasant town situated at the foot of the Schiahorn (8924 feet), opposite the mouths of the Fluela and Dischma valleys, at the head of which we see the Scaletta glacier, and, on the left, the Schwarzhorn. 1 mile farther is DAVOS-PLATZ (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST.")

(From Davos-Dorfli the diligence route continues on over the Fluela Pass to Sus, 44 miles from Coire, and thence, 14 miles farther, to Schuls. About a mile west of Schuls are the BATHS OF TARASP, noted for their mineral springs, of which there are many in the vicinity. Some of them contain salt, and another, the Bonifacius, being a powerful chalybeate, abounding in carbonic acid gas. There is a Kurhaus, at which guests are received en pension. The neighbourhood of the springs abounds in romantic scenery, and there are numerous interesting excursions to be made in the neighbourhood.)

ROUTE 101.

THE ENGADINE.

It

HE Engadine, or the Upper Valley of the Inn, is 56 miles in length, barely more than a mile in width, watered by the little river Inn. is surrounded by lofty mountains on the north-west, being the Engadine Alps, and on the south-east the Bernina chain, the glaciers of which latter are among the most extensive and magnificent in all Switzerland. That part of the valley between Maloja and Samaden, known as the UPPER ENGADINE, is the most attractive part of the valley, and has become of late years one of the great pleasure and health resorts of Switzerland. The attractiveness of its scenery is greatly enhanced by its numerous and beautiful lakes. The climate is anything but mild, and compares with that of Sweden and the northernmost parts of Europe, and except at Pontresina and Sils-Maria, where there are a few gardens and cultivated fields, there is hardly any attempt at agriculture. The atmosphere is remarkable for its dryness and clearness. The summer temperature ranges from 66° to 76°, and is subject to violent changes. Snow sometimes falls in August. Great numbers of the inhabitants migrate in early life to other parts of Europe, where they become confectioners, keepers of restaurants, and the like, frequently amassing considerable fortunes, with which they return to their native valleys. The neat and comfortable houses seen

everywhere in the Engadine belong chiefly to persons of this class. The inhabitants are generally Protestants, and are remarkable for their industry and sobriety.

COIRE TO THE UPPER ENGADINE.

There are two routes from Coire to the Engadine-one by the Albula Pass, the other by the Julier Pass. Both are interesting, and as many travellers go by one and return by the other, descriptions of both are given below.

1. BY THE ALBULA PASS. Distance, 46 miles to Samaden. Diligence every day from Coire in 12 hours. Fare, 18 francs 15 cents.; coupé, 21 francs 80 cents.; carriage with two horses from Coire to Samaden, 120 francs. At once after leaving Coire the road ascends in windings, commanding fine views of the town and the Rhine valley. CHURWALDEN (Hotel: Krone), (6 miles), is a little town in a picturesque situation, much frequented for the whey cure and its pure mountain air. It has an ancient church and a suppressed monastery. Two miles farther is PARPAN, from which the ascent of the Staetzerhorn may be made, from the top of which there is seen a grand panorama. The summit of the pass is soon reached (5087 feet), from which there are beautiful views. A little farther on we pass several ponds and the lake of Vatz, and soon reach LENZ (15 miles), (Hotel: Krone), at which point the Albula and Julier passes divide. Continuing on by the first-named pass, which quits the Julier road immediately to the south of the village, we pass Brienz and the chateau of Belfort, and descend by long

zig-zags into the valley of the Albula, and reach Bad-Alveneu, the sulphur springs of which are much frequented. From this point the Piz Saint Michel (10,370 feet) may be ascended. We now cross the Landwasser of Davos, which here falls into the Albula, and passing the village of Filisur, descend to the Albula, which we cross by a wooden bridge. Ascending again through a wooded valley, we cross the stream, and after a long curve, enter a deep gorge, flanked by perpendicular rocks called the Berguner-Stein. Emerging from the gorge, we see, on the right, the Tinzenhorn (10,275 feet) and the Piz d'Aela (10,890 feet), and soon reach Bergun (Hotel: Kreuz), which has a handsome tower and an ancient church. From this point the finest part of the road begins. Ascending a wooded valley, we pass the valley of Tisch, and see, on the right, a number of waterfalls, one of which, just above the village of Naz, is of considerable size. Ascending in long zig-zags, we pass several chalets, and see, on the right below us, the lake of Palpuogna. Ascending more gradually, we pass the rocky horns of the Giumels, and travers ng a marshy basin, ascend the valley of Teufelsthal to the Hospice at the SUMMIT OF THE PASS (7580 feet). On each side of the plateau are seen the summits of the Albulastock, the highest of which, the Allulahorn, is 10,737 feet above the level of the sea. We now descend through an uninviting valley, the wide bends of the road affording fine views, and soon reach Ponte, 42 miles, which is in the Engadine Valley, 4 miles north-east of SAMADEN, for description of which, with the other towns in the Engadine Valley, see below in this Route.

2. BY THE JULIER PASS.-Distance, 51 miles to Samaden. Diligence every day in summer in 13 hours. Fare, 20 francs 75 cents. Coupe, 24 francs 90 cents. Carriage with two horses, 130 francs. Carriage with two horses to St Moritz, 120 francs. This route as far as Lenz (15 miles) is the same as the Albula Pass above. Leaving Lenz, we descend in numerous zig-zags three miles to the Albula, having on the way fine views of the neighbouring mountains. Crossing the Albula, we soon reach TIEFENKASTEN (17 miles). (Hotel Julier), picturesquely situated in a valley. We now begin to ascend rapidly, skirting a bold cliff called the Stein. Four and a half miles farther on, we enter the wide and populous valley called Oberhalbsteiner-Thal, which is 6 miles in length, and in which there are several small villages. On the slopes to the west are several villages, one of which, Reams, has below it a handsome castle, now a prison Passing now several curious circular valleys, we go through, beyond Tinzen, a rocky defile, with several waterfalls. At Molins (29 miles) the diligence stops for dinner (Hotel: Löwe). From this point to Stalla, we have a succession of grand landscapes. On a wooded height, in the middle of the valley, we see the square tower of the castle of Spludatsch, from which there is a fine view. Three miles farther on are the ruins of the castle of Marmorera, half-way up the height. After passing Stalla, the road turns to the eastward, and we begin the ascent of the Julier in numerous zig-zags. Two hours are occupied in reaching the summit, where we see two columns of mica slate, 5 feet in height, supposed by antiquaries to be milestones erected by Au

gustus. Near them is a lake said to contain trout. Thousands of sheep from the Italian side are brought every summer to graze on the slopes of the Julier. A mile below the summit is the Julier Alp. On the left are the Piz Julier (11,6000 feet) and the Piz d'Albana (10,170 feet), and on the right, the Piz Pulaschin (9900 feet). The views of the snow-mountains of the Bernina which we obtain in the descent are magnificent. Immediately in the foreground are the Piz Surlej and Mount Arlas, above which we see the Piz Tschierva and the Piz Morteratsch, and on the right the Piz Bernina, and still farther to the right, the Piz Corvatsch, while lower down, we see the whole valley of the Upper-Engadine from St Moritz to SilsMaria. Three miles and a half from the summit, we reach SILVAPLANA (45 miles), (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST"). It is pleasantly situated on the lake of the same name, in the midst of meadows. It is a place considerably resorted to in summer, for its pure air and delightful scenery. Three and a half miles south-west of Silvaplana is SILS, at the east end of the little lake called the Silser-See. It consists of the hamlets of Sils-Baseglia and SILS-MARIA (Hotels: see "HoTEL LIST"), both of which contain many handsome buildings and are becoming much frequented summer resorts. There are many pleasant excursions to be made in the neighbourhood, the principal of which is that to the Fex Glacier.

Excursions are made to many of the mountain heights, from which magnificent views are obtained. SILS-MARIA is the farthest point up the valley resorted to by tourists. Returning down the valley from Sils,

miles to the south. The Roseg Glacier may be reached in 2 hours, part of the way by road. The ascent of the Piz Languard from Pontresina occupies about 3 hours. It is one of the best points of view in the district.

ROUTE 102.

BALE TO ZURICH DIRECT.

56 miles. First class, 9.40 francs; second, 6.60 francs; third, 4.75 francs.

EAVING Bale, we cross the valley of the Birs, and traverse the slopes of the Jura. Near Pratteln, on the right, we see the ruins of the Castle of Schauenburg; on the left, beyond the Rhine, rise the mountains of the Black Forest.

:

We

pass (10 miles) Rheinfelden, once strongly fortified. Quitting the Rhine and passing several small stations, we reach (29 miles) the great tunnel under the Botzberg (1950 feet), and soon reach BRUGG (Hotel Rössli) (36 miles), situated near the confluence of the Aar, the Reuss, and the Limmat. At this point once stood the Roman town of Vindonissa. Some remains of it have been found from time to time. The Schwarze Thurm (Black Tower) is a Roman structure, of the time of the Later Empire. It was restored in the early part of the 15th century. Crossing the Reuss, we reach TURGI JUNCTION (44 miles), whence there is a branch to Waldshut. We keep along the left bank of the Limmat to BADEN (Hotel: Wage) (47 miles). The Castle was formerly the residence of the Hapsburg princes. The

Baths, about a quarter of a mile from the station, were known to the Romans. They are much frequented, and the neighbourhood affords many pleasant excursions. The baths are used in cases of scrofula and diseases of the skin After passing through a tunnel under the hill, on which the castle stands, we see, on the left, the Cistercian Abbey of Wettingen, now a college. In the church adjoining it is the sarcophagus, once containing the remains of the Emperor Albert.

The Alps are in view on the miles). For a description of this right as we approach ZURICH (63 place, see Route 98.

ROUTE 103.

BALE TO LUCERNE.

59 miles. Fares: First class, 10·25 francs; second, 7.15 francs.

HE route as far as Pratteln (5 miles) is the same as to Zurich. Entering the valley of the Ergolz, we go through a pleasant country; passing Liestal (8 miles), Laufelfingen (18 miles), where we pass through a tunnel 2,700 yards, and reach OLTEN (23 miles), (Hotel: Schweizerhof), an important junction, whence lines branch off in all directions. Continuing our route we pass Zofingen (32 miles) and several small stations, and reach Sursee, a little beyond which we see the Lake of Sempach, near which the Swiss Confederates, in 1386, defeated Leopold of Austria, owing to the self-sacrifice of Arnold von Winkelried. Ten miles beyond the station Sempach, is LUCERNE (see Route 105).