tière is seen coming down between the Aiguilles d'Argentière, and du Tour. We next cross the Arve, and pass by the villages of Tines and Les Pres, or Praz, to Chamouni. The whole distance can be walked in eight or nine hours.

[Those who prefer the route by the Col de Balme (Hotel: Suisse), quit the route we have above described, about quarter of an hour beyond the Col de Forclaz and cross the bridge (10 minutes), opposite the upper house of Trient. Crossing the meadows and passing the stream Nant Noir, the route ascends in zigzags through the Forest of Magnin. Crossing some pastures and passing the Chalets of Herbagères we reach in another half hour, the summit, the COL DE BALME, and obtain a magnificent view, comprising the full range of Mont Blanc, and its glaciers descending into the valley of Chamouni, the whole of the latter being seen stretching as far as the Col de Voza. To the right are the Aiguilles Rouges, and near them the Brévent, while behind, on the right, is the Buet. Looking towards the Forclaz the view extends over the Valais, and comprehends some portions of the Oberland mountains. From the boundary stone, some little distance to the right, we obtain a view not only of Mont Blanc, but of the Aiguille de Balme, on the north, and on the north-east, some portion of the range of the Bernese Alps.

A difference of opinion exists among writers as to which of the two routes is the more interesting. Doubtless, the single view from the Col surpasses any one view upon the other route, but, that by the Tête Noire shows a succession of fine views, which render it on the whole the more interesting of the two. It is easy for tourists who are willing to prolong the

journey three hours to go to the Col de Balme, and returning complete the route by the Tête Noire; but a guide who knows this route must be taken.]

The descent from the Col de Balme to Tour, (whence there is a carriage road to Argentière and Chamouni), occupies about 1 hour.

ROUTE 120.

VISP (RHONE VALLEY) TO ZERMATT.

(The distance is about 27 miles. Bridle path from Visp to St Nicolaus, 4 hours, carriage thence to Zermatt. Horse from Visp to St Nicolaus, 12 frs.; to Zermatt, 20 frs.; carriage, St Nicolaus to Zermatt, 15 frs. Time occupied from Visp to Zermatt usually 8 hours.)

WEAVING Visp we proceed for some distance along the right bank of the Visp, and crossing it reach Stalden (5 miles) (Hotel: Traube), where the Gorner-Visp joins the Saaser-Visp. We proceed along the pleasant valley of St Nicholas, and four hours from Visp reach the village of St Nicholas (13 miles) (Hotel: Grand Hotel). Tourists who leave Visp in the afternoon frequently spend the night here. St Nicholas was greatly injured by the earthquake of 1855. We now proceed through a pleasantly diversified country along the right bank of the river to Randa (21 miles), situated near the point where the glacier of Bies descends from the Weisshorn. The lofty Mischabel range of peaks, being on the left of the valley, now come into view. Further on

we pass along close to the river, and through an excavation in the rock, beyond which we obtain a good view of the grand peak of the Matterhorn (Mont Cervin), and soon reach ZERMATT (27 miles). (Hotels Mont Cervin, du Mont Rose, Zermatter Hof), population 450. (The hotels are frequently much crowded in summer.) It is situated in the midst of pasture lands in a valley overlooked by the Matterhorn, and upwards of 5000 feet above the sea. Matterhorn is 14,705 ft. high, and with the exception of its remarkable peak, is covered with glaciers. The hotel on the Riffelberg, about five miles from Zermatt, is a convenient place from which to ascend the Gorner Grat, and visit the Gorner Glacier. (The hotel on the Riffelberg is often crowded. Rooms should be engaged before leaving Zermatt.)

The

The ascent to the Riffelberg occupies three hours. From the inn to the GORNER-GRAT takes 1 hour. The view is most imposing, snow peaks and glaciers surrounding the spectator on every hand.

The most striking objects in the panorama are Monte Rosa, 14,337 feet, two of whose peaks are visible toward the southeast, and the abrupt MATTERHORN in the south-west, 14,705 feet.

The Gorner Glacier is one of the most extensive in Switzerland, and is joined in its course by ten other glaciers.

There are a great number of excursions and ascents to be made from Zermatt, to describe which would be to exceed our limits. Those above mentioned are the only ones made by ordinary travellers. Zermatt is called the Chamouni of Mont Rosa, because of its many interesting

excursions.

ROUTE 121.

MARTIGNY TO AOSTA BY THE GREAT ST BERNARD.

(Time to the Great St Bernard, 11 hours. One horse carriage, 1 or 2 persons, if the horses are ridden from the Cantine to the Hospice, 40 frs.; 3 persons, 50 frs. 2 horse carriage, 4 persons, 50 frs.)

ETTING out from Martigny-la-Ville, we proceed to Martigny-leBourg, and then cross to the left bank of the Drance, leaving the village of La Croix about half a mile to our right, and ascend the course of the Drance by the villages of Brocard and Vallette to Bouvernier. Beyond this village, the road again crosses the river, which issues from a gorge, which grows wilder as we advance. Half an hour's drive brings us to the Galerie de la Monnoye. At its outlet are seen the ruins of a monastery, still overlaid with the soil and rubbish with which it was covered in 1818, by an irruption of the lake into the Val de Bagnes, which at this point opens upon our valley. The catastrophe caused great damage in the valley of the Drance, traces of which are visible in several places. The village of Bouvernier was saved by the rock which projects before it. The road here again crosses to the left bank of the Drance, and at St Brancier, a dirty village, the two branches which form the Drance unite, one having come down from St Bernard, and the other from the Val d'Entremont.

Orsieres (Hotel: des Alpes) is a little village situated at the point where the Val de Ferret opens

into the Val d'Entremont. The most picturesque section of the Pass is just above the village. We next reach Liddes (Hotels: de l'Union, d' Angleterre), where mules may be procured for the Hospice (charge, 6 francs).

St Pierre is a dirty village, with a church built in the eleventh century, having a Roman milestone let into the wall, near the tower.

A pillar is shown here which was originally set up on the crest of the St Bernard Pass to the memory of the younger Constantine. On the other side of St Pierre, the route crosses a deep hollow, in which the Drance, pouring here out of the Orseythal, forms a pretty fall. The way formerly led through the forest, across rocks and the stumps of trees, so that when Buonaparte crossed the great St Bernard (in May 1800) with his army, they had a difficult march through the forest, and over the precipices of St Pierre. They dismounted the cannon from their carriages, put them in the hollow trunks of trees and then one half the battalions dragged them up the mountain, while the other half carried the arms and accoutrements of their comrades. For some distance up from St Pierre, the road lies through the forest, where Napoleon so nearly lost his life by the slipping of his mule on the verge of the precipice. He was only saved from falling into the gulf by his guide, who caught him by the coat.

Beyond the forest, and the defile of Cherrayre, we come to the pasturages and châlets of Proz, and in about three quarters of an hour, arrive at the Cantine of Proz. (Here carriages are left and the horses are saddled for the ascent. Any lack of horses should be supplied at Liddes, where there is usually a halt for

dinner.) Mount Velan, at this part of the journey, appears of enormous size. The road now ascends through a gorge, called the defile of Marengo.

The traveller comes suddenly upon the Hospice of the Great St Bernard, from the Alpine side; its stone steps almost hanging down over precipitous gulfs.

The Hospice is on the very summit of the Pass, 8200 ft. above the level of the sea. It is a stone building, capable of sheltering 300 persons. Fully one hundred sometimes receive succour in one day. One of the houses near the Hospice was erected as a place of refuge in case of fire in the main building. Sometimes the snow drifts encircle the walls of the Hospice to the height of 40 ft.; but it is said that the severest cold recorded here was only 29 degrees below zero. The greatest degree of heat recorded at the Hospice, has been 68 degrees. The monastery was founded about 962, according to some, by St Bernard of Menthon; other traditions ascribe its origin to Charlemagne, or Louis the Pious. The duties of hospitality are discharged by ten or twelve Augustine monks, assisted by a number of serving brothers called Maronniers.

The monks remain at the Hospice only for a limited term of service. In general, the brotherhood consists of young recruits, whose constitutions can bear but for a few years the constant cold and the keen air of these heights. Much of their time is occupied in the daily exercises of the chapel. A guestchamber, or hall, is kept for travellers, apart from the refectory of the monks; only one of whom is accustomed to entertain strangers.

They have a very nice chapel,

adorned with carvings, and in it is a "tronc," or charity box, where travellers who partake of the hospitality of the kind monks ordinarily deposit alms, not of less amount than they would be charged at an inn, though the shelter and entertainment are entirely without charge. The hospice is spacious, and the bedrooms for strangers are very neat and comfortable. A pleasant fire is always burning in the guest-hall for travellers. A piano decorates this room, the gift of the Prince of Wales. The register of the names of visitors abounds with interesting autographs.

There is a museum in a hall above the strangers' refectory. The collection of medals and antique coins is good, and there are some portraits, paintings, and engravings, and a large number of books.

A scene of interest at the hospice is the morgue, or building where the dead bodies of lost travellers are deposited.

The little lake behind the hospice does not melt till July, and freezes again in September, and in some seasons is not free from ice at any time.

The Journey to Aosta, on the Italian side, occupies a little over four hours. The route is by St Remy, and thence by carriage.

AOSTA (Hotels: du Mont Blanc, Couronne), the Augusta Prætoria of the Romans, is beautifully situated near the confluence of the Doire and the Buttier, in a valley, from many parts of which Mont Blanc and the range near the Great St Bernard are visible. It is encircled by mountains whose sides are clothed with vineyards. There are many interesting medieval Italian houses in various parts of the town, and mportant Roman remains. On

the south are some vestiges of Roman walls, in tolerably good preservation, and on the east a Triumphal Arch with ten Corinthian columns. Near it is a gateway, formerly the Porta Prætoria, now called the Porte de la Trinité, and a little distance off, a Roman bridge which once crossed the Buttier. It is partially buried. In the garden of the convent of St John are some remains of an ancient Basilica. John Calvin resided at Aosta for some time previous to 1451. Anselm, Archbishop of Canterbury in the eleventh century, was born here.

From Aosta the tourist can proceed to TURIN via IVREA. Diligence to Ivrea, 42 miles, in 9 hours. Rail from Ivrea to Turin, in 24 hours.

At the head of the Aosta Valley, 24 miles from Aosta, is COURMAYEUR. (Hotels: Royal, Angelo) a pleasant village and a favourite summer resort, with mineral springs, and in the midst of magnificent scenery. Diligence in summer in 5 hours, 5 francs. One horse carriage, 18 francs, two horses, 30 francs.

It is one of the halting-places upon the long tour around Mont Blanc, from Chamouni to Aosta by the Col du Bonhomme and the Col de la Seigne).

ROUTE 122.

GENEVA TO BALE, BY FREYBURG AND BERNE.

165 miles; first class, 28 60 francs; second, 20-20 francs; third, 14.70 francs.

N leaving Geneva the railway skirts the north shore of the lake, past numerous pleasant villas and gardens. Between Geneva and Lausanne the principal towns are Coppet, Nyon, Rolle, and Morges, for description of which see Route 114, page 461.

At Bussigny Junction (28 miles), the railway to Yverdun and Neuchatel joins the Geneva line. The train, however, generally goes on to LAUSANNE (39 miles) (see page 462).

After leaving the Lausanne Station, there is a fine view of the lake of Geneva, the valley of the Rhone, and the mountains beyond it, as we approach the tunnel through which we reach CHEXBRES-VEVAY (47 miles), the station for Vevay. Passing some other stations, we have a view of Mont Blanc, before reaching ROMONT (662 miles), beautifully situated on an eminence overlooking the Glane.

The old

surrounded by the Saarine. The picturesque situation of the town overhanging the river, the beautiwatchtowers not being visible tiful suspension bridges, and quaint from the railway, tourists should tarry here for a few hours. The banks of the river are united by four bridges, one of them being a suspension bridge of 906 ft. long, and 175 ft. above the stream. On the opposite side of the River Saarine is another suspension bridge, which spans the gorge of Gotteron. It is about 700 ft. long, and 284 ft. above the valley beneath. There are some fine churches, the most remarkable being the Cathedral of St Nicholas, a handsome Gothic structure of the 15th century, containing an organ which has 7,800 pipes, and 67 stops, and is considered one of the finest instruments in Europe. Performances on the organ every evening (except Saturdays and the eve of holidays) from 8 to 9. Tickets, which cost one franc each, may be had at the hotels. The tower of the church is 386 ft. high, and is distinguished for the delicacy and elegance of its architecture. Its portal has some curious reliefs emblematical of the Last Judgment, and Heaven and Hell. Other objects of interest in the town are the Byzantine Church, in the form of a rotunda, with a dome; the Capuchin Church, with a Descent from the Cross," by Annibale Caracci; the Church of the Barefoot Monks, a large and handsome building; the Jesuit Church; the Hotel de Ville, a remarkable old building, erected on the site of the palace of the ancient dukes of Zahringen, the founders of Berne; the Jesuit College and the Lyceum. In the principal square is a lime tree said to have been planted in 1476, on the day of the battle of Morat.