1824-52. (Branch lines to Ems, Coblenz, and to Cologne.) Proceeding down the valley of the Lahn, we cross that river before reaching MARBURG (60 miles) (Hotels: Pfeiffer, Ritter). It is a picturesque old town, situated on the side of a hill by the Lahn in a beautiful position, was once a stronghold of the Teutonic order. Among its interesting objects are the Castle of the Landgraves of Hesse, now prison; the University, which has usually 450 students, and has had among its students Luther, Zwingli, and Melancthon. The Church of St Elizabeth is a Gothic edifice of the thirteenth century, the style of which is regarded as exceedingly pure. It is in a state of excellent preservation.

a

The conferences between the Swiss and Wittenberg Reformers took place in one of the halls of the old Castle of Marburg.

The University was founded in 1527 by Philip the Magnani

mous.

We cross the Lahn, and pass, amongst other places, Wabern (104 miles), where the Elector had his country seat. We then cross the Fulda by a viaduct of thirteen arches, and reach GUNTERSHAUSEN (116 miles) (Hotel Bellevue). A branch turns off here to Eisenach (see Route 135). Passing Wilhelmshohe, we reach CASSEL (1243 miles) (Hotels: Royal, du Nord), formerly the capital of Hesse Cassel, now belonging to Prussia. In the principal square called Friedrich's Platz, is a statue of the Elector Frederick II., the Elector's Palace, and the Museum. The Augarten, a beautiful park, adjoins this square. The Museum contains a Library, a Cabinet of Curiosities, comprising numerous specimens of clocks and watches of various ages, and some fine wood and ivory carvings, and

gems; a Collection of Antiquities, and ancient and modern sculptures; and a Natural History Collection. The Picture Gallery contains some good pictures by Rembrandt, Paul Potter, Van Dyck, Teniers, Holbein, Rubens, Murillo, Titian, and other noted inasters. It contains about 1400 pictures.

The Church of St Martin, in the Friedrich's Platz, a handsome Gothic building, contains several monuments of the Electors.

In the Augarten is an elaborate marble bath, containing statues and bas-reliefs. Near it is the orangery.

About 3 miles from Cassel, connected with it by a beautiful alley of limes, is WILHELMSHOHE, which is called the Versailles of Germany. The gardens contain the Summer Palace of the Elector, near which is the Theatre, and a Fountain, said to be the largest known, except that at Chatsworth. Its jet is 190 ft. high. The New Waterfall, near the inn, is 130 ft. high.

The Cascade of the Karlsburg consists of a number of stone steps, extending 900 ft. up a hill to the Temple of the Winds, which is crowned by a colossal statue of Hercules. About halfway up is a representation of the Giant Enceladus, overwhelmed by the crags of Mount Etna. The statue of Hercules is of copper, 31 ft. high, standing on a pyramid, which is supported by the octagonal structure abovementioned, rising to a height of 1,312 ft. above the Fulda. Near the cascade is a miniature castle, called the Lowenburg, surrounded with agreeable gardens and pleasure grounds. The armoury contains some interesting relics. In the chapel is a fine sarcophagus of Carrara marble over the grave of Wilhelm I. Wilhelmshohe was built with moneys received by

the Elector for his subjects, the soldiers he sold to the British Government for the war in America (1776). It was assigned to Napoleon III., after the battle of Sedan, as his residence, and he resided here until April 1871.

ROUTE 144.

FRANKFORT TO WURZBURG NUREMBURG, RATISBON, AND VIENNA.

THIS IS THE MOST DIRECT ROUTE BETWEEN COLOGNE OR FRANKFORT AND NUREMBURG, RATISBON, LINZ, AND VIENNA.

Express fares to Nuremburg

1st class, 21.70 m.; 2nd, 15.10 m. Distance, 145 miles; express, six hours. To Vienna-1st class, 68.50 m.; 2nd, 50.10 m. Distance, 464 miles; express, fifteen hours.

(For the journey as far as HANAU (11 miles), see page 518.)

D

ETTINGEN (18 miles) is celebrated for the battle fought near it in 1743, between the English, and Austrians, and the French. George II. commanded the allied forces in person. AsCHAFFENBURG (25 miles) (Hotel: Friedhof) is situated on the right bank of the Main. It was a Roman station. The Schloss is a square building with towers, erected in 1614. It contains a Picture Gallery and Library. In the park is the Roman villa, or Pompeianum, an imitation of the house of Castor and Pollux at Pompeii. The Cathedral was originally founded in 980, but the existing building was con

We presently reach WURZBURG (80 miles) (Hotels: *Kronprinz von Baiern, Russischer Hof). This ancient town is pleasantly situated on the Main. It is connected with the suburb of Mainviertel by an ancient stone bridge, adorned with statues of saints, &c. There are some very quaint, picturesque old houses to be seen in various parts of the town. At the end of the Domstrasse is the Cathedral, originally founded in the 8th century. The earlier portions of the present building are of the 11th and 12th centuries. In the interior are monuments of the Prince-bishops and others. The Neue Munster, near the Cathedral, is built on the spot where the Irish Saint Kilian suffered martyrdom. In a niche on the outside of this church is a monument to Vogelweide, the Minnesinger, who died in 1230, leaving

a sum of money to be laid out in food for the birds to be given to them at his tomb every day. The monument bears an inscription to that effect. The chapter subsequently appropriated the bequest to themselves.

"Vogelweide the Minnesinger,
When he left this world of ours,
Laid his body in the cloister,
Under Wurzburg's minster towers.
And he gave the monks his treasures,
Gave them all with this behest:
They should feed the birds at noon-
tide

Daily at his place of rest;

[A line goes off from Wurzburg to Bamberg and Baireuth; distance to Bamberg, 63 miles. Half-way to Bamberg is Schweinfurt Junction, where a line goes off north (16 miles) to KISSINGEN BATHS (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST"). Of its three springs the Rakoczy and Pandur furnish saline, and the Maxbrunnen acidulous and alkaline waters. The Soolen-Sprudal is remarkable for the ebb and flow of its waters. The waters of Kissingen are efficacious in cases of chronic disease, gout, &c. Visitors, about 7,000 annually. Visitors

strels

Near the Cathedral is the Royal Palace, formerly the residence of the Prince-Bishops. It contains 285 apartments, some of which are magnificent. The Chapel is richly decorated in the style of the age of Louis XIV. On the north side of the town is the Julius-spital, an asylum for aged and infirm persons. In the market-place is the Marienkapelle, a fine Gothic structure of the 14th and 15th centuries. The University, founded in 1582, is celebrated as a school of medicine. The Citadel stands on a hill covered with vineyards. It commands a magnificent view, but permission must be obtained to visit it. The famous Stein wine is grown at Wurzburg.

a tax for the use of the Kurhaus, &c., as at Baden-Baden and Wiesbaden.

The Kurgarten is the great rendezvous. It is a large space planted with trees in front of the Kurhaus, and the Arcade, in which is the Conversation Haus.

The vicinity abounds in delightful promenades and excur

sions.

BAMBERG (Hotel: Bamberger Hof), beautifully situated on the Pegnitz. Its most noteworthy object is the Cathedral, a fine Byzantine edifice founded in 1004. The old Palace of the Prince-Bishops of Bamberg is a fine edifice. [Distance to Wurzburg, 64 miles, to Nuremburg, 46 miles.]

Leaving Wurzburg, and passing several stations, the most important being Furth, we reach NUREMBURG (145 miles) (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST").

Cabs.-hour, one person, 40 pf.; two persons, 60 pf; three or four persons, 80 pf. Baggage, small, 10 pf.; large, 30 pf., per package. Porter into the town, under 1 cwt., 30 pf.

English Church Service in summer at the Hotel Bariére.

This was formerly one of the most important towns in Europe.

It is still distinguished in many branches of industry, especially in the manufacture of lead pencils, wooden toys, mirrors, bronzes, &c. It is a curious old town, containing numbers of medieval houses, together with several magnificent ones of later date. The River Pegnitz runs through the town, dividing it in two equal parts, which are named after the large church in each, St Sebald's side on the north, and St Lawrence's side on the south. The Church of St Lawrence is a fine Gothic building of the 13th century; the towers are surmounted by handsome spires. The portal at the west end is richly decorated, and contains statues of the Virgin and several saints, and representations of various Scriptural incidents. The stained glass windows are magnificent. Many of the sculptures are by Albert Durer.

A prominent object in this church is the pix of white stone, 64 ft. high, beautifully carved by Adam Krafft. It rises nearly to the roof of the church, and the top, which bends over, has been compared by Longfellow to the crest of a fountain.

In the market-place is the Catholic Church, or Frauenkirche. Its portal, like that of St Lawrence, is adorned with figures of the Virgin, Saints, Prophets, &c. The interior contains some good paintings and sculptures.

The Schoene Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain), also in the marketplace, consists of a fine Gothic obelisk, 56 ft. high, adorned with many statues. The Goose Market, near the Frauenkirche, contains a bronze fountain, called the Gansemannchen, which represents a peasant carrying two geese out of whose bills flow streams of water. In a street leading out of the principal market-place, is the house once inhabited by Hans

Sachs, the shoemaker-poet of the 16th century. Another Nuremburg poet of the same period was Melchior Pfinzing, secretary to the Emperor Maximilian, who composed a nuptial ode called "Theuerdank," on the occasion of the Emperor's marriage with Mary of Burgundy.

The Rathhaus contains a good collection of pictures. Open daily, fee 35 pf. The great hall is adorned with those of Albert Durer. Under this building are secret passages leading in various

directions to the fosse outside the walls of the town.

St Sebald's Church was originally built in the 10th century. The greater part of the existing structure is of the 14th century. The portals are finely carved. The interior contains some handsome stained windows, and good sculptures, and a painting by Albert Durer. The Shrine of St Sebald, in the choir, is a chef d'œuvre of Peter Vischer. It is a beautiful Gothic canopy of bronze, in open work, adorned with statues of the Twelve Apostles, above which are twelve of the Fathers of the Church, and cupids, sea-monsters, &c., amid foliage and flowers.

Melchior Pfinzing lived in 'the Parsonage-house of St Sebald, on the north-west corner of the square in which the church is situated. It has a handsome oriel window.

The Gothic Church of St Maurice, near St Sebald's, is used as a picture-gallery; it contains some good paintings. In the neighbourhood is a bronze statue of Albert Durer, by Rauch.

The Castle, or Burg, is at the north side of the town. It is a fine, massive building, of the eleventh century. It stands on a rock, and commands an extensive view. Part of it is fitted up

for the Royal family, and contains some good paintings. In the castle-yard is a venerable lime-tree, said to be 700 years old.

In a tower of the city wall called Froschthurm is the cele

brated iron virgin (Eiserne Jungfrau) with a collection of other instruments of torture. It is the figure of a female seven feet high, which opens by secret springs. The victim being thrust into its embrace, was pierced by poignards. Beneath are dark vaults into which the dead bodies were allowed to fall when released from the embrace of this fearful instrument.

The Churchyard of St John, outside the Thiergarten-gate, contains the graves of Albert Durer (No. 649), Hans Sachs (No. 503), and an immense number of the former aristocracy of Nuremburg, whose coats of arms blazoned on their tombs.

are em

The Aegidienkirche, in the Italian style, contains an altar-piece by Van Dyck, representing a Dead Christ, with St John and the two martyrs. In one of the side-chapels there is a sculptured relief of the Coronation of the Virgin, by Adam Krafft. To the south of the church is the Gymnasium, founded by Melancthon, whose statue is in front

of it.

The Germanische Museum, of the fourteenth century, contains a good collection of antiquities (chiefly German), coins, medals, books, sculptures, paintings, &c. The great hall contains a fine picture by Kaulbach : "The Opening of Charlemagne's grave by Otho III."

Albert Durer's House is No. 376 in the street of his name, near

the castle and the Thiergarten gate.

Longfellow thus describes Nuremburg :

"In the valley of the Pegnitz, where

across broad meadow-lands Rise the blue Franconian mountains,

Nuremberg, the ancient, stands. Quaint old town of toil and traffic, quaint old town of art and song, Memories haunt thy pointed gables,

like the rooks that round them throng:

Memories of the Middle Ages, when

the emperors, rough and bold, Had their dwelling in thy castle, timedefying, centuries old: And thy brave and thrifty burghers boasted, in their uncouth rhyme, That their great imperial city stretched its hand through every clime. In the courtyard of the castle, bound with many an iron band, Stands the mighty linden planted by Queen Cunigunde's hand;

On the square the oriel window, where in old heroic days

Sat the poet Melchior singing Kaiser Maximilian's praise.

Everywhere I see around me rise the wondrous world of Art:

Fountains wrought with richest sculpture standing in the common mart; And above cathedral doorways saints and bishops carved in stone,

By a former age commissioned as

apostles to our own.

In the church of sainted Sebald sleeps enshrined his holy dust, And in bronze the Twelve Apostles

In the church of sainted Lawrence guard from age to age their trust;

stands a pix of sculpture rare, Like the foamy sheaf of fountains, rising through the painted air. Here, when art was still religion, with Lived and laboured Albrecht Durer, a simple, reverent heart,

the Evangelist of Art; Here in silence and in sorrow, toiling

still with busy hand,

Like an emigrant he wander'd seeking for the Better Land. Emigravit is the inscription on the tombstone where he lies:

Dead he is not, but departed,—for

the artist never dies.

Fairer seems the ancient city, and the

sunshine seems more fair, That he once has trod its pavement,

that he once has breathed its air!

Through these streets so broad and

stately, these obscure and dismal lanes, Walked of yore the Mastersingers, chanting rude poetic strains.