lake called the Simsee, to Endorf, turn off to the pretty village of PRIEN (56 miles), on the Chiemsee, a lake about 12 miles long by 3 broad. The lake has three islands Herrnworth, on which is a building, formerly an abbey ; Frauenworth, containing a nunnery and a hotel; and Krautinsel, formerly a kitchen garden for the monastery and nunnery. We keep by the south shore of the lake to Uebersee_(64 miles), and presently reach TRAUNSTEIN (73 miles) (Hotel: Post), pleasantly situated above the Traun. There are salt-works here; the salt coming from Reichenthal, 21 miles off. The town was destroyed by fire in 1851, and has been rebuilt in modern style. To the eastward we see the Salzburg Alps. Passing Teisendorf (83 miles), near which we observe the ruins of Ruschenberg Castle, we enter Austria, near Freilassing, and presently reach SALZBURG (95 miles) (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST"). (The Austrian Custom House is here.) Cabs.-Station into town, without baggage, 50 kr. ; two horses, 80 kr.; with baggage, 60 kr., and 1 fl.

English Church Service in the German Protestant Church at 11 a.m. and 4 p.m.

This town, known to the Romans as Juvavia, is beautifully situated on the Salza, chiefly on the left bank. The river, banked on both sides by precipitous crags, rushes through a natural gate-way. The heights on either side of the river are crowned with edifices. That on the left, called the Monchsberg, is surmounted by the castle called Hohen Salzburg, an irregular feudal citadel of the 11th century, and during the Middle Ages the residence of the Archbishops of Salzburg, who combined the dignity of princes of the German empire with their

ecclesiastical rank. The castle, now dismantled, serves as a barrack.

The Cathedral, or Domkirche, was built in 1614 of white marble, in the Italian style. It contains monuments of the prince bishops, and some good paintings. The abbey church of St Peter was founded by St Rupert, and rebuilt in 1657. It contains the tomb of St Rupert. The abbey has a valuable library. The cemetery of St Peter is well worth visiting. The vaults hewn in the face of the rock, and the chapels attached, dating from the period when they were consecrated by St Rupert (582), are very interesting. The Margare then kirche, in the middle of the cemetery, dating from 1485, has been restored. In the last vault of the arcades on the north, Michael Haydn, the composer, is buried. Observe the modern monument of the Countess Lanckoronska by Schwanthaler. The Residenz Schloss, or Palace, was founded in 1110 by Archbishop Conrad, and has been greatly added to and embellished by his successors. Opposite to it is the Neubau, Government buildings, containing a permanent exhibition of art, the tower of which has a chime of bells, which are usually played at 7, 11, and 6 o'clock. On the Residenz Platz is a fine monumental fountain, 45 ft. high. Each of the hippopotami, as well as the figures of Atlas, are hewn from a single block of marble. In the adjacent Platz is the bronze statue of Mozart, by Schwanthaler. Mozart was born at Salzburg, Getreidegasse, 225. The summer riding school, an amphitheatre, hewn in the rocks of the Monchsberg, is very curious. The Museum (open daily from 10 to 4) contains antiquities, natural history collections, &c. The Capuzinerberg, as its name implies, is the hill on

which stands the Capuchin convent. The hill is surmounted by the Francisci-Schlossel, from which the prospect is much more extensive; but the best view of all is to be obtained from the Stadtplatz, which reaches to the Untersberg, 6,465 ft. high, noted for its curious caverns. Near this mountain is the Hohe-Goll, 8,000 ft. high. The environs afford pleasant excursions. [Diligence from Salzburg to Ischl in seven hours. A more convenient route, because it is nearly all by rail, is that via Lambach and Gmunden described below.

Travellers going toward Vienna from Salzburg can include the Salzkammergut in their route by taking omnibus

or carriage from Salzburg to Ischl (33

miles), thence omnibus to Ebersee at the south end of the Lake of Traun (two hours), thence steamer to Gmunden (45 minutes). From Gmunden there is a railway to Lambach (18 miles), a station on the railway between Salzburg and Vienna. The whole route from Salzburg to Gmunden occupies about 10 hours, and includes the best scenery of this delightful region.]

Leaving Salzburg, we pass the Capuzinerberg, and a few miles further, see, on the right, the lake called Wallersee, with the Convent of Seekirchen on its bank. Passing Frankenmarkt, we reach Vocklabruck (153 miles), situated on the Vockla. A little further on we obtain a fine view of the Traunstein, 5,540 ft. high. Passing Schwannstadt, 4 miles south of which are the beautiful falls of the Traun, we reach LAMBACH (Hotel: Rossel), situated near the confluence of the Traun and Agger. The Benedictine Monastery, founded in the 11th century, contains a fine library and a collection of engravings, with some good paintings. [Here a branch line goes to the Salzkammergut.

THE SALZKAMMERGUT.

This interesting region, which contains extensive salt mines, which are the property of the Austrian Government (hence the name, which signifies salt exchequer-property), lies between Styria and Salzburg, and contains about 300 square miles, and a population of 18,000. It is now greatly frequented by

tourists for its fine mountain and lake scenery, which has given to the region the name of the "Austrian Switzerland." It is reached from LAMBACH (see above) by railway to GMUNDEN (3 hours) (Hotels: see "HoTEL LIST"), thence by steamer over the beautiful Trauensee (9 miles) to Ebensee, where carriages are waiting to convey passengers to Ischl.

From the station Roitham (7 miles), the celebrated Falls of the Traun (1 mile from the station) may be visited. The Trauensee is the most beautiful lake in Austria. It is 9 miles long, and is traversed in about one hour. The scenery toward the southern end is very grand. At the southern extremity is Langbath, where are extensive salt works, and opposite is EBENSEE. From this place to Ischl (12 miles) the route follows the beautiful valley of the Traun. The omnibus occupies two hours to Ischl. On approaching the latter place a fine view is had of the Dachstein. On the right beyond the first bridge is the entrance to the villa of the Emperor of Austria. ISCHL (Hotels: Kaiserin Elizabeth, Bauer, Victoria). This is a delightfully situated watering-place, and the most important town in he Salzkammergut. It is the resort of the Austrian aristocracy during the warm season. The emperor and many Austrian noblemen

have villas here. The valley in which the town is situated affords beautiful walks, which have been rendered attractive by temples and summer-houses at the finest points. The Esplanade is the usual promenade of visitors, and here a band plays every evening. Walks and excursions; to the grounds behind the Emperor's villa, the Sophien-Doppelblick, the ruin of Wildenstein (one hour), the Hohenzoller Waterfall, &c. Longer excursions to Aussee (16 miles), and Hallstadt Lake, and to the salt mine (3 miles from Ischl).]

Resuming our journey at Lambach, we cross the Traun, and proceed for some distance along its left bank. Passing the Chateau of Lichtenegg we reach WELS (164 miles) (Hotel: Adler), called Ovilabis by the Romans. In the Old Castle, Maximilian I. and Charles of Lorraine died. (Here the line from Ratisbon and Passau comes in.) Passing through an uninteresting country we reach LINZ (181 miles), (Hotel: Erzherzhog Karl). It is situated on the right bank of the Danube, which is crossed by a wooden bridge of 1,700 ft. in length. A series of 32 detached forts, in a circuit of 9 miles, connected by covered passages, form its fortifications. Among the public buildings are the Landhaus, formerly a convent, in which are the Government offices; the Museum, containing antiquities, a collection of natural history, armour, &c.; the Cathedral, built in 1822; and the Schloss, now a barrack.

Near Asten we see the towers of the fine Monastery of St Florian, containing a library and picture gallery, a good collection of coins and medals, a fine hall, and an ancient crypt beneath the chapel. Enns (190 miles), situated on the left bank of the river of the same name, near its

confluence with the Danube. This is the site of the Roman Lauriacum, where Galerius cruelly persecuted the Christians, A.D. 304. The walls of Enns were built with the money paid for the ransom of Richard Cour de Lion. The lofty watch Tower in the market-place was erected by the Emperor Maximilian II. The Castle of Count Auersperg stands on an eminence above the river. Amstetten (220 miles), obtaining fine views of the Danube on the left, and the Styrian Alps on the right. Crossing the Ips we reach Kemmelbach (229 miles), and as we approach the Danube, we see on the opposite bank, to the left, Persenburg, one of the Emperor's summer residences, and the spires of the pilgrimage church of Maria Taferl. Passing Pochlarn (240 miles) we reach MELK (244 miles) (Hotels: Lamm, Ochs), situated at the foot of a precipitous hill on the right bank of the Danube. Above it stands a Benedictine Abbey of some note. It is 180 ft. above the river. It resembles a large palace rather than an abbey. The site was formerly occupied by a chateau of the Margraves of Babenburg, The abbey has been besieged several times. Two bastions, seen at the eastern entrance, were strengthened by Napoleon after the battle of Aspern.

The Parish Church, of the 15th century, contains several monuments and some curious stone carvings.

Beyond Purkersdorf (289 miles), which is situated below the Riederberg, we cross the Wien, which gives its name to the capital of Austria, and pass, on the right, the Park, stocked with deer and wild boars, belonging to the Emperor. On the right, near Weidlingau, is the Park of Hadersdorf, containing the grave and monument of Gen. Laudon.