HIS route is along the Riviera di Levante, the scenery of which resembles that of the Riviera di Ponente. As on the route from Genoa to Nice, the line is carried through many promontories by means of tunnels, of which latter there are more than eighty. For nearly the whole distance there are beautiful views of the Mediterranean.

One of the first stops is at NERVI (Pension Anglaise) (7 miles), a small town in the midst of lemon groves. It has a warm climate, is well sheltered, and is becoming a favourite winter resort. Passing Rapallo (20 miles), and Chiavari (25 miles), both large towns, we reach SESTRI LAVANTE (29 miles), on a beautiful bay. The next town of importance is SPEZIA (57 miles), (Hotels Croce di Malta, Italia), beautifully situated on the Gulf of Spezia. Its harbour is one of the best in the Mediterranean.

Here is the chief dockyard of the Italian Government. The town attracts many visitors in summer for the sea baths, and in winter by the mildness of its climate. Passing Sarzana (68 miles), we reach Avenza (74 miles), where a branch line goes off to

[CARRARA, which is reached in 12 minutes from Avenza. It is well worth visiting for its interesting marble quarries, and the studios of the many sculptors who reside there. The marble works employ 6000 workmen.]

Passing Massa (79 miles), Pietrasanta (85 miles), and Viareggio (91 miles), we reach PISA, which is fully described in Route 171.

ROUTE 167.

MILAN TO FLORENCE

(AND BRINDISI.)

217 miles; express fares, 1st class, 43.30 francs; 2nd, 30-40 francs.

FTER leaving Milan we pass through a low marshy district, planted chiefly with maize and rice. Passing Melegnano and Tavazzano, we reach

LODI (20 miles) (Hotel Il Sole.) It is situated on the Adda, in the midst of a very fertile country. The place is celebrated as the scene of the storming of the bridge over the Adda by Napoleon, on the 10th May 1796. The Duomo is a handsome building, in the Lombard style. The columns of the porch rest upon griffins. The walls near the high altar are adorned with good

paintings. There is a fine basrelief of the Last Supper. The Church of the Incoronata, in the style of the Renaissance, dates from the 15th century. It is octagonal in form, and contains some fine paintings. The surrounding district is famed for the production of the cheeses called Parmesan. Passing some unimportant places, we reach

PIACENZA (43 miles) (Hotel: S. Marco). The Piazza de' Cavalli contains the bronze equestrian statues of Alessandro and Ranuccio Farnese, members of one of the great ruling families of Italy. The Duomo, situated in a street leading out of this square, is in the Lombard style, and was built in the early part of the 12th century. The porticos are very handsome. The Campanile is a square brick tower, about 200 ft. high. The interior of the church is adorned with statues, woodcarvings, bas-reliefs, frescoes, and paintings.

The churches of Santa Maria della Campagna, San Sisto, and Sant' Antonino contain good paintings. The famous "Madonna" in the Dresden gallery was painted by Raphael for the church of San Sisto.

The Palazzo Farnese, in the northern quarter of the town, once a beautiful building, is now a barrack. The Palazzo dei Tribunali has a beautiful facade of brick, the windows and cornices of which are in terra cotta.

Piacenza contains some good private collections of paintings. Among the numerous charitable institutions of the place are the Instituto Gazzola, and the Ospedale Grande. Leaving Piacenza, we reach Borgo san Donino (65 miles). The Duomo is richly adorned with medieval sculptures.

PARMA (78 miles) (Hotels: Croce, Bianca, Italia), was for

merly a Roman colony. In the middle ages it was the seat of the Guelphs. It is situated on the river of its name. The Duomo is a handsome structure in the Lombard style; the prin cipal entrance on the facade is adorned with figures of lions in red marble, one holding down a bull, the other a serpent, and with allegorical sculptures and inscriptions. The interior is decorated with numerous frescoes and with some good paintings. The subterranean church, beneath the Duomo, is supported by twenty-eight marble columns. It contains some good sculptures and frescoes. The Baptistery is of grey and red marble, ornamented with tiers of columns and richly sculptured portals. The vault has twenty-four windows, the walls between them being covered with paintings in good preservation. The stalls are finely inlaid. Church of San Giovanni Evangelista contains some good frescoes by Correggio and others. The churches of the Madonna della Staccata and San Lodovico are adorned with sculptures and frescoes. The Farnese Palace contains the Academy of Fine Arts, consisting chiefly of the gallery of paintings, 600 in number, among which are works of Raphael, Murillo, Correggio, Titian, and the Caracci. Here is also a Museum of Antiquities, and a Library. The Palazzo del Giardino, on the opposite side of the river, contains good frescoes, chiefly of mythological subjects, and a collection of portraits of members of the principal families of Parma. The Ducal Garden, laid out in the old French style, is open to the public.

The Convent

Leaving Parma we presently reach REGGIO (Hotel: della Poste) (95 miles), renowned as the birth

place of Ariosto. The Duomo, of the 15th century, contains several fine sculptures. There are some handsome frescoes in the church of Madonna della Ghiara, and in the Basilica of San Prospero. Reggio possesses a good public library and a museum.

MODENA (110 miles) (Hotels: Albergo Reale, San Marco), is a fortified town. The greater portion of the Duomo, a magnificent building in the Lombard style, is of the 11th century. The pillars of the portal rest upon lions. The capitals of those in the interior are adorned with grotesque figures. There are some interesting groups and monuments in marble and terra cotta. The southern facade has two handsome portals elaborately ornamented with sculptures, and four bas-reliefs emblematic of the life of St Geminianus. The campanile, 315 feet high, dates from the 13th century, and is one of the finest in Italy. In the por. ticos round the court of the palace called Monto dei Pegni, is the Museo Lapidario, containing Roman and medieval sculptures, The Ducal Palace contains a fine Picture Gallery, and a choice collection of drawings by the old masters, and other works of art. The Biblioteca Estense possesses 100,000 volumes, and an excellent collection of coins and medals. Express trains make no stop between Modena and BOLOGNA (133 miles) (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST").

ARRIVAL. Omnibuses and porters from all the hotels meet the trains. Cab hire, per hour, 1 fr. 50. To or from the station, luggage included, 1 fr. PRINCIPAL OBJECTS OF INTEREST.-The Piazza Vittoria Emanuele with the Palazzi Pubblico and del Podesta, churches of S. PETRONIO, S. Domenico, S. Stefano, ACCADEMIA DELLE BELLE

ARTI, THE LEANING TOWERS, Campo Santo, Archiginnassio, University, Madonna di S. Luca for the view, S. Michele in Bosco for the view.

ENGLISH CHURCH.-Services at the Hotel Brun every Sunday during March, April, May, October, November, and December.

This is one of the most ancient cities in Italy. It is beautifully situated on a plain at the foot of the lower slopes of the Apennines, and is divided into four quarters, the older of which, indifferently built, have a heavy, antique and gloomy aspect, and strikingly contrast with the wellpaved thoroughfares and the fine buildings of the modern city. The footpaths of the principal streets are covered with arcades. The public edifices are numerous, and many of them magnificent. The churches alone exceed seventy, and are not less remarkable for the works of art which they contain than for the beauty of their architecture.

Beginning at the PIAZZA VITTORIO EMANUELE, which is close to the Hotel Brun, the principal hotel of Bologna, we see in the Piazza the Palazzo Pubblico, dating from 1290, adorned with a Madonna on the facade, and a bronze statue of Pope Gregory XIII. In the interior is the grand staircase by Bramante, and in the galleries and halls some interesting frescoes. Opposite is the Palazzo del Podesta, dating from 1201. The great hall of this palace is called Sala del Re Enzio, from the fact that the young King Enzio, son of Frederic Barbarossa, was kept a prisoner here for twenty-two years. In this piazza is the celebrated fountain with a statue of Neptune in bronze by John of Bologna. Since 1878, in which year a Roman aqueduct was re-adapted for the supply of the city with

spring water from the Apennines, this fountain has been in opera

tion.

The Church of S. Petronio in this piazza if finished according to the original plans, which are still in existence, would have been the largest church in the world. Its immense proportions, beautiful Italian and Gothic architecture, fine old chapels, with good stained-glass windows and its three entrance-gates are worthy of careful attention.

Coming out of S. Petronio we find ourselves on the left at the entrance of the ARCHIGINNASIO, formerly the univer

Xsity.

The courtyard, passages and rooms are all decorated with the coats of arms of its former students and professors, and the chapel contains well-preserved frescoes now over 300 years old by Cesi. The rooms of the first floor contain the Municipal Library (200,000 volumes), and free reading room. Next door is the MUSEUM of ANTIQUITIES, which contains a very fine collection, the Egyptian Museum, and an ETRUSCAN MUSEUM, which since the late discoveries from 1869 to 1878 is perhaps the best collection of its kind. Most of these antiquities have been found under the present cemetery, in the new public gardens. The custodian, who speaks English well, politely shows all the rooms and gives information.

The large room, formerly the medical lecture room, has an exceedingly fine carved ceiling in cedar. A great crowd of persons is always found walking along the arcades of the Archiginnasio attracted by the fine shop windows under its arcade. Leaving this place and turning to the left we admire the handsomely painted porticoes of the National Bank and go on to the Church of S. Domenico. The

tomb of San Domenico is one of the finest in Bologna. It has a bas-relief by Nicola Pisani, and two small angels (of exceeding beauty) attributed to Michael Angelo.

In the passage of the side entrance is a most beautifully finished tomb of the 16th century.

The cassa di Risparmio, a banking establishment connected with the savings bank for the labouring class, is the finest modern building in Bologna, and is by Mengoni the architect, who built the Gallery Victor Emanuele in Milan.

S. Stefano or the seven churches is a curious agglomeration of the oldest churches in Bologna, the restoration of which began in 1876.

The Church of S. Pietro (Cathedral), not far from the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, contains a good picture of the Annunciation and frescoes by Caracci.

This

The Campo Santo, a quarter of an hour's drive from the town, can be visited at any time, being all under cover. It may be called a gallery of monuments. and the one at Genoa are the finest cemeteries in Europe. From here the Church of San Lucca is seen on the top of the hill connected with the town and the cemetery by an arcade. From San Lucca an exceedingly fine view may be had, including the Apennines and the plain to the north, and the hills between Padua and Verona can be seen. The church is handsome, and the altar-piece, said to have been painted by St Luke the Evangelist, is carried to the cathedral in Bologna every year a week before Ascension Day, to be carried up again in grand procession on Ascension Day. The whole clergy with the cardinal take part in this procession.

San Michele in Bosco, less than a mile from the centre of the town, on a hill outside the Porta d'Azeglia, can be reached with a cab (one franc, besides the ordinary fare). It offers the best view of Bologna. The custodian shows the fine old rooms of the PALACE, which contain a great many objects of art. The copper-plate printing, terra-cotta moulding, which may be called pictures in relief, and a very fine painting on the ceiling of the chapel, are well worth noticing. Many palaces are to be seen in the Strada Galliera, Strada Luigi Zamboni, Strada San Vitale, and Strada San Stefano. Ornamental brick, or terra-cotta, is used in many buildings, and the front of the Hotel Brun shows some fine samples of it. Besides the churches mentioned, there are others worth seeing, including San Paolo, San Giovanni in Monte, and San Martino.

Bologna being at the foot of very pleasant hills, pedestrians can make many fine excursions among them. There are some beautiful villas near the town. Visitors can learn in the hotels in which of the villas they are admitted.

The ACCADEMIA DELLA BELLE ARTI contains on the ground-floor collections of casts and modern works of art, and on the firstfloor the PICTURE GALLERY, containing chiefly works of the Bolognese School. (Open daily from 9 to 3; admission, 1 franc, Sundays, gratis.) Each picture bears the name of the painter. The principal pictures are the following:-First Hall.-Francesco Albani (1599) Madonna with SS. Catherine and Mary Magdalene, painted by the artist in his 21st year. Fourth Hall.

-83. Francesco Francia - The Dead Christ supported by Two

Angels. Fifth Hall.-135. Guido Reni-The Massacre of the Innocents. "A very celebrated picture. The female figures are beautiful, and the composition is very animated, but the feeling for mere abstract beauty is here very apparent."-Kugler. 137. Guido Reni-The Triumph of Samson after having vanquished the Philistines. 136. Guido Reni --The Crucifixion. 134. Guido Reni (1616)-"La Madonna della Pieta," with two Angels bewailing the Dead Christ. Below are SS. Petronio, Domenico, Carlo, Borromeo, Francis, and Proculus, with the town of Bologna. 140. Guido Reni-St Sebastian bound to a Tree; and 139. St Andrea Corsini, Bishop of Fiesole. In the right hand, which is gloved, he holds a pastoral staff, in the left a copy of the Scriptures. Sixth Hall.-78. Francesco Francia (1494)-Madonna with the Baptist, SS. Augustine and Monica, SS. Francis, Proculus, and Sebastian, and the donor, Bartolomeo Felicini. 197. Pietro Perugino-Madonna in Glory, with SS. Michael, Catherine, Apollonia, and John (in old age) beneath; formerly in the Cappella Vizzani in S. Giovanni in Monte, signed "Petrus Peruginus Pinxit." 204. Timoteo della Vite (1508)-(The favourite and son-like pupil of Francia) The Magdalen in the Wilderness, from the Cathedral of Urbino.152. Raphael-St CECILIA in ecstasy, surrounded by St Paul, St John the Evangelist, Augustine, and Mary Magdalene. In listening to the heavenly choir, the Saint has dropped her earthly instruments of music, which lie broken at her feet. Painted for the Bentivoglio Chapel at S. Giovanni in Monte.

"All are listening to the choir of