distance, the Campagna and its aqueducts, Rome and the dome of St Peter's; and on the left the Alban Mount, and Castel-Gandolfo, the summer residence of the popes.

TIVOLI.-(Hotels: Regina, in the Piazza; Sibylla, near the temples). The distance from Rome is 16 miles. Steam tramway, from the Porta San Lorenzo, five times daily in 1 hour; fares, 3 frs., 2.40 frs.; return, 4.50 frs., and 3.60 frs. Carriages, one horse, 20 frs., and fee, 2 frs.; two horses, 30 frs., fee, 5 frs. Carriages from the hotel vary from 40 to 50 frs., but they are much more comfortable than the ordinary carriages. In order to make the excursion in one day, tourists should leave Rome by 8

a.m.

(It should be arranged at the time

of hiring the carriage, that Hadrian Villa is to be included in the journey to Tivoli.)

Tivoli, the Tibur of the ancients, is thought to have existed as a colony of the Siculi before the foundation of Rome. It was subjugated (B. C. 380) by Camillus, and afterwards joined the league of Latin towns allied with Rome. The Emperor Augustus and many of the Roman nobles had villas here. Under the Emperor Hadrian it attained the climax of its splendour. The present town, which has 7,000 inhabitants, has few attractions beyond its beautiful situation. Among the finest relics is the TEMPLE near the Sibylla Inn, called by some the TEMPLE OF THE SIBYL, and by others that of VESTA; it is a circular building surrounded by an open hall of Corinthian columns, formerly numbering 18, ten of which remain. It is situated above THE WATERFALL. From the terrace of the temple, a beautiful view of the falls is obtained.

The path to the falls (donkeys cost 1 to 13 francs, no guide necessary) affords fine glimpses of the great fall. In consequence of an inundation in 1826, which destroyed part of the village, a new course has been constructed for the Anio, through the rock, by means of two shafts, to prevent the recurrence of similar disasters.

The new waterfall thus formed is 320 ft. in height. The grotto of Neptune by this change lost the greater part of its water, but the fall is still very fine.

From the last-named grotto, visitors ascend to the Syren's grotto. The path then ascends to the principal stream. From the circular terrace (usually reached by the high road) an admirable view of the GREAT FALL is obtained. A path on the right bank leads thence to the hermitage of S. Antonio, which commands a view of the small waterfall, which here turns several mills, established in the ruins of the socalled Villa of Maecenas. Traces of ancient villas are seen on the neighbouring slopes. The villa d'Este, at the entrance of the town, erected for the Cardinal d'Este, still retains traces of its former splendour. It has beautiful gardens, terraces, grottos, and fine avenues of trees. fine view may be had of the small cascades and of the so-called villa of Mæcenas, from the terrace of this villa.

VILLA OF HADRIAN.-This villa is situated about two miles from Tivoli, and is most conveniently visited on the way from Rome to the last-named place. A cursory view may be had of the extensive ruins in a couple of hours. The various buildings are said to have extended, independent of the gardens, over a space seven miles in circumference. Here Hadrian imitated everything that had taken his

fancy during his progress through the distant provinces of the empire. And here he brought together the different edifices and institutions of other countries:

"All things that strike, ennoble-from

the depths

ROUTE 176.

FLORENCE TO SIENA.

Greece,

Her groves, her temples-all things

that inspire

Wonder, delight!"-ROGERS.

According to Spartian, each portion of the villa bore the name of the town or district from which it was copied. Thus, there were the Lyceum, the Academus, the Stoa, the Poecile, the Pry: taneum, the Tempe, all borrowed from Greece; the Canopus and its hideous statues, copied from similar objects in Egypt.

Of all these various edifices nothing now remains but a mass of ruins, exhibiting all the confusion of a demolished town. These ruins, however, which enable us to trace the vestiges of baths, porticoes, a library, a palestra, a hippodrome, a menagerie, a naumachia, an aqueduct, theatres both Greek and Latin, temples for different rites, and every appurtenance requisite for an imperial residence, are sufficient to attest the ancient mag

nificence of the villa.

second, 7.15 francs.

The route from Florence to Empoli is described in Route 172.

Osteria,

EAVING Empoli the railway follows for some time the valley of the Elsa. Passing Bianca, Castel Florentino (11 miles), Certaldo (15 miles), where Boccaccio resided and where he was buried, we reach Poggibonsi (21 miles), a inhabitants. Passing through a rapidly growing town of 8,000 long tunnel we reach SIENA (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST"). It is situated on three hills. Its lofty site gives it, at a distance, a very pleasing appearance; but the streets are irregular and narand the palaces unimposing. row, the houses generally ill-built,

The most remarkable buildings are the CATHEDRAL, one of the Italian Gothic, with a curious most characteristic specimens of facade inlaid with black, red and white marble, and covered over with sculptures and decorations; several other churches, many of them imposing structures, and almost all rich in works of art; the Palazzo Pubblico, an extensive pile with a lofty tower, now occupied as public offices, courts of law, and prisons, and finely situated on the Piazza del Campo, a large open space sloped like an ancient theatre for public games. There are palaces in almost every variety of simple and compound Gothic;

among others, the Palazzo del Magnifico, the Palazzo Buonsignori, and the Palazzo Piccolomineo, remarkable for its elegant balcony, and considered one of the finest in the city; the public library, the hospital of Santa Maria della Scala, one of the most ancient in Europe and containing 300 beds, and a university founded in 1330. The FAMOUS FRESCOES of Pinturichio in the LIBRARY OF THE CATHEDRAL are among the most interesting objects at Siena. It is said that Raphael assisted in their execution.

Siena is the see of an archbishop, the residence of a military governor, the seat of civil and criminal courts. Its foundation is of very ancient date, as attested by its Etruscan walls, of which portions are still visible; but its chief interest is derived from the important position which it occupied among the early Italian republics. It is said to have once had 150,000 inhabitants, and repeatedly sent large armies from its gates. It has given birth to a great number of remarkable individuals, and furnished no fewer than seven Popes.

From Siena the line continues on to Chiusa, see page 677, where the direct route to Rome is joined.

ROUTE 177.

ROME TO NAPLES.

162 miles; first class, 34-15 francs; second, 23.40 francs (express).

EAVING Rome, we proceed for some distance parallel to the course of the Appian Way, the tombs upon which are plainly visible. The Campagna is covered with the ruins of the Claudian and Anio Novus aqueducts, the most striking of all the ruins about Rome. At Ciampino (83 miles) the line to Frascati turns off (see page 722). As we approach the Alban hills we pass through vineyards and oliveyards, and through cuttings made in the currents of lava which have flowed down from the now extinct volcanoes of these hills. On the left in the distance is seen Monte Cavo, surmounted by a white building, just below it the village of Rocca di Papa. Below, on a lower ridge, are the village and palace of Castel Gondolfo, the favourite summer residence of the Popes. The latter overlooks the lovely lake of Albano. We pass La Cecchina (18 miles), the station for Albano and Ariccia, and reach VELLETRI (26 miles) (Hotel: del Galla). This town is beautifully situated on an eminence, below Monte Artemisio. The ancient Volscian town of Velitra, upon the site of which Velletri stands, was engaged in hostilities with Rome in the time of Ancus Martius. Coriolanus fortified it, and it was finally dismantled by the Romans, B. C. 338, and its leading men transported to Rome. The ancestors

of the Emperor Augustus came from Velitræ. Amongst the objects deserving of mention is the tall belfry of Santa Maria in Trivio, built in 1353, as a thankoffering, as is supposed, for deliverance from the plague which destroyed a great part of the population in 1348. From the balconies of the Palazzo Lancellotti, beautiful views can be obtained. The Cathedral, rebuilt in 1660, contains a painting of the coronation of the Virgin, and representations of incidents in the lives of the Saints, by Giovanni Balducci.

The district about Velletri is celebrated for its wines. We pass, on the left, the village and lake of Giulianello, and, a short distance from Valmontone (351 miles), the ruined Castle of Piombinara, before reaching Segni (40 miles). The town is 3 miles from the station. It was colonized under Tarquinius Priscus. Parts of the ancient walls remain, together with a gate known as the Porta Saracinesca, and another, nearly filled up, called the Porta in Lucino. Passing, amongst other places, Ferentino, where many Roman remains may be traced, Frosinone (60 miles), and Ceccano (64 miles), we reach CEPRANO (76 miles), (express trains stop 10 minutes), the last station in the Papal States before they became, in 1871, a component part of the kingdom of Italy. The town of Ceprano is situated on the right bank of the Liris. The view is very extensive, reaching to Monte Casino in one direction, and through the valley of the Liris to the heights of the Abruzzi Apennines. We cross the Liris and reach ISOLETTA (77 miles).

Near SAN GERMANO (93 miles), otherwise called Casino, is the magnificent Monastery of Monte Casino, well worth a visit.

Visitors are better accommodated there than at the inns in the town. There are several remains about San Germano of the ancient Roman Casinum, including part of a street, a Tomb, a Theatre, a fine Amphitheatre, and the Villa of Varro. Passing some unimportant places we reach Teano (121 miles). Here are the remains of a castle built by Martino Marzano, Duke of Sessa, in the 15th century. The Cathedral contains some interesting monuments and inscriptions. The next important place is CAPUA (135 miles), a fortified town. The site of the ancient town of this name is two miles distant. The present town is an archbishop's see.

It was built in the 9th century, and fortified in the 13th. In the Gothic Cathedral are some granite columns belonging to the ancient town of Casilinum, on the site of which Capua is built. In the Piazza dei Giudici are preserved some inscriptions supposed to be from ancient Capua, and a bas-relief of Jupiter, Minerva, and Diana. Santa Maria (138 miles) is the site of ancient Capua. Here are the ruins of an amphitheatre. The next station is CASERTA (Hotels: Villa Reale, Vittoria). On approaching the station we see, on the left, the Royal Palace, constructed in 1732 by Vanvitelli, remarkable for its superb architecture. It is in square form, the principal facade having 240 windows. The grand staircase is one of the most beautiful in Italy. In the chapel is the "Adoration in the Temple" by Raphael Mengs. Behind the palace is an extensive park, with fountains and other embellishments much resembling those at Versailles. CASERTA is a favourite excursion from Naples, from which city it is a little more than 20 miles distant. At Maddaloni (146