theatre, calculated to accommodate 12,000 spectators. The central space is enclosed by a strong wooden barrier, about 5 ft. high, narrow ledges, about 8 in. from the ground, being attached to it on either side, so as to assist the bull-fighters in springing over it when making their escape. Outside this barrier is a second and higher one, leaving a passage between them, about 5 ft. wide.

In the elevated region known as the Sierra de Guadarama are situated two of the most famous among the royal residences of

and at a height of 4000 ft. above the sea, forming a delightful summer retreat from the intense heat of the capital.

ROUTE 181.

BAYONNE TO MADRID, BY PAMPELUNA AND SARAGOSSA.

RIAL, and that of La Granja, or San Ildefonso, both within the limits of Old Castile. The former, which is 27 miles north-west of Madrid (reached by railway in 2 hours), lies at the southern foot of the mountains. Fare, 25 pesetas. This magnificent pile, a church, monastery, mausoleum, and palace in one, was built by Philip II. and finished in 1584. The ground-plan bears some resemblance to a gridiron, upon which implement of torture St Lorenzo, to whom the pile was dedicated, is said to have suffered martyrdom. The church is 320 feet long, 230 wide, and 320 high. Under the high altar is the Pantheon, where most of the kings of Spain since Charles V. are buried. On each side of the altar are bronze figures of Charles V. and Philip II. and their families. Philip II. died in a small room which is under his effigy. The palace has some finely decorated apartments. The library contains 30,000 vols., many interesting manuscripts and the prayer-books of Isabella the Catholic, Charles V., Philip II., &c. The palace of La Granja is upon the northern face of the Sierra, and is 40 miles distant from the capital. It is situated in a sheltered recess of the mountains, in the midst of pine forests,

second, 226r. 75c.

HE journey as far as Alsuasa (63 miles) is by the last Route 180. PAMPELUNA(96 miles) (Hotels: del Infante, del Florentino). Residence of the CaptainGeneral of Navare, and seat of a Bishop suffragan of Burgos. This is one of the ancient Roman cities of Spain. It is built on an eminence, commanding fine views of the country around. The walls by which it is surrounded, and which have been subject to many sieges, are in a very incomplete state, but the fortress, which fronts the river, is in tolerably good condition.

The Cathedral is one of the finest in Spain. It is in the Gothic style, and the exterior especially presents a very grand appearance. The only circumstance that mars its general magnificence, is that the western facade, dating from the end of the last century, is a strange contrast with the rich Gothic style of the remainder of the cathedral. Its plan is that of a Latin cross, and it is composed of five naves. In the centre is the choir. The grille of the choir is particularly worth notice, as a chef-d'œuvre. At the entrance are the tombs of Charles

III. of Navarre, and his wife Leonora of Castile. The two alabaster statues are in a recumbent position, dressed in the royal robes, and crowned. The wainscoting of the choir is a superb specimen of carving in English oak, representing saints, prophets, and patriarchs.

The Hotel de l'ille is a fine structure, with a curious mosaic pavement, and some good paintings and portraits of the kings of Navarre.

A splendid aqueduct of entirely modern construction, but in the Roman style, conveys water from the hills of Francoa, nine miles distant, to the city.

Pampeluna was taken in 778, by Charlemagne. It was afterwards the capital of the kingdom of Navarre. In 1808 it was taken possession of by the French, and retained by them till 1814. It was the last refuge of the king Joseph, during his retreat; and after a four months' blockade, the French were forced to capitulate. They retook it during the campaign of 1823.

Tafalla (123 miles). Population, 5250. This was formerly one of the most important cities of Navarre, and the ancient residence of its kings. The ruins of their palace are to be seen, surrounded by large gardens. The church contains some fine sculptures. The Hotel de Ville is a building of modern construction.

The railroad here crosses the plain, where the traveller sees the Spanish vines and olives, and by a delightful valley leads to the station of-

Olite (128 miles), population, 2150, in a fertile plain, near the stream of Cidacos. This place formerly shared with Tafalla the favour of a royal residence. The Palace is now in ruins. Of the two churches, San Pedro and Santa Maria, the latter is the

most remarkable, containing a portico with statues of the twelve apostles, and also a fine baptismal font. Castejon (181 miles). Here the line for Logrono, Miranda, and Bilbao turns of.

Tudela (191 miles). Population, 9150. This town is situated in a well-watered plain, surrounded by mountains. The streets are narrow, and have a wretched appearance, but the promenades are delightful. There is a summer promenade, and also one for the winter. The Plaza de Torros is an extensive open space behind the station.

Here is a fine Cathedral, in the Gothic style. Its west front, with its superb doorway and rose window, also the high altar, and a fine black marble monument in one of the side chapels, are especially worth notice. The carvings and tracery throughout are very fine.

LAS CASETAS (230 miles). At this station the line joins that between Madrid and Saragossa. There is a change of train for travellers from Pampeluna to Madrid.

SARAGOSSA (238 miles), (Hotels: de Europa, Las Cuatro Naciones, del Universo), population, 64,500. This ancient capital of the Kings of Aragon, situated on the Ebro, is one of the most important cities in Spain. There are an academy of fine arts, university, and numerous manufactories. It is the residence of the Captain-general of Aragon, the seat of an archbishop. The greater part of the streets are narrow and irregular.

Saragossa has several churches and colleges. The Cathedral of La Seo is situated in a square, which also contains the archiepiscopal palace. Its front is without ornament, but the modern portal is decorated with Co

rinthian columns, and three statues, representing our Saviour, St Peter, and St Paul. A lofty tower, which serves as a belfry, has a large number of allegorical statues. The interior is capacious, but short in comparison with its width. Here is a splendid tomb, containing the ashes of one of the first Inquisitors.

The Cathedral el Pilar (so called from the pillar on which the Virgin descended from heaven) may be termed the great lion of the place. It contains the celebrated sanctuary, with the highly venerated statue of the Virgin, on a jasper pedestal, said to have been placed there by St James. Pilgrims from all parts of Spain come to worship at this shrine.

There are also the churches of San Felipe, with a beautiful portico; San Pedro, with its Moorish tower; and that of Las Santas Masas, a subterranean church, where are the tombs of the first Christian martyrs of Saragossa.

The most curious of all the monuments of this interesting city, is the leaning tower, called the Torre Neuva. It stands quite by itself. Although bearing the name of the New Tower, it was erected as far back as 1503-4. It is built entirely of brick, and is 9 feet out of the perpendicular. There are some charming promenades. The siege of Saragossa, in 1808, gave occasion for the brave exploits of the celebrated "Maid of Saragossa." The ancient city was built by the Emperor Augustus, and named after himself, Cesarea Augusta, which has been corrupted into Cesaragosta, and ultimately Saragossa. The canal, and the crossing of two main lines of railway, have given to this city an increased activity and importance in modern times. Returning to Las Casetas Junction, we proceed to Calatayud

(279 miles), population, 11,100. This ancient Moorish town has a fine Castle and a Dominican Convent, of imposing appearance. The church of Santa Maria has a beautiful portal in the cinquecento style. Here are also a Theatre, a Plaza de Toros, and some beautiful promenades.

At Alhama (316 miles), (Hotel: El Establecimiento), are some mineral springs of great repute in cases of gout, rheumatism, &c. Medinaceli (350 miles), is picturesquely placed at the foot of a steep hill. It gives the title of duke to the family of La Cerda, who, according to lineal descent, are the rightful heirs to the throne of Spain. Siguenza (3662 miles), population, 4500, is situated in a fertile, but ill-cultivated district. The Gothic Cathedral, restored in the twelfth century, and of unknown antiquity, is beautifully adorned with bas-reliefs and sculptures.

Passing some unimportant places, we reach GUADALAJARA (425 miles), (Hotel: de la Diligencia), population, 6450. The most remarkable building is the Palace of the Dukes de l'Infantado, presenting a strange mixture of Gothic and Moorish styles. This large palace is in a deplorable state of dilapidation. The convent of San Francisco contains some rich specimens of sculptured monuments. The church of San Nicolas, which overlooks the city, those of San Gines, San Miguel, and San Esteban, the Panteon and the Plaza de Santa Maria, deserve a visit. We presently reach

This

ALCALA DE HENARES (433 miles), population 8850. city was formerly of great importance, but it now presents a sad and impoverished appearance. It is surrounded by walls in ruins. The ancient University is now a college, its Chapel contains the magnificent marble

monument of Cardinal Ximenes. It is surrounded by a splendid grille. The Episcopal Palace is deserving of notice. Alcala was the birthplace of Cervantes, who was baptized in the church of Santa Maria Mayor. It was in this city, formerly possessing celebrated printing presses, that Cardinal Ximenes had the celebrated Polyglot Bible printed.

VICALVARO (438 miles). It was in the plain of Vicalvaro, in the month of July 1854, that Marshal O'Donnell put himself at the head of several regiments, and attacked the royal troops, who were powerless to subdue this revolt. Espartero joined O'Donnell, the ministry of San Luis was overthrown, and the leader of the rebellion became Prime Minister. Passing some unimportant places, we reach MADRID. See preceding route.

ROUTE 182.

MADRID TO TOLEDO

(Via Castillejo).

561 miles; first class, 45.50 reals; second, 34.88 reals. (Direct line) 44 miles; first class, 36.50 reals; second, 27.50 reals.

Ciempozuelos (20 miles). ARANJUEZ (30 miles) (Hotels: del Norte, del Infante), population 4000. This place, formerly a royal summer residence, is situated near the confluence of the Tagus and Jarama. The palace contains nothing worthy of particular mention. Here are some fine elms imported from England by Philip II. The girth of one of them is upwards of 90 feet. The Casa del Labrador (labourer's cottage), is beautifully furnished with tapestry, &c. It was built by Charles IV. Some parts of the interior are beautifully painted. The principal saloon is also elaborately painted. At Castillejo (40 miles) the line for Toledo leaves the main line for Alicante and Valencia.

TOLEDO 56 miles, (Hotels: del Lino, de Huespedes), population, 18,000. Of all excursions in the environs of Madrid, that to Toledo will be found the most interesting.

This city has an important place in the pages of history. Under the Goths it was the capital of Spain, and the seat of 17 councils; under the Moors it was the seat of a small kingdom; it was conquered by Alphonso VI., King of Castille and Leon, and became the capital of Castille, and afterwards of all Spain. When in the height of its splendour, the city contained 200,000 inhabitants.

It is the most curious of all the cities of old Spain.

Toledo is the seat of an archbishop, and the chief town of a province. It is built on a declivity, at the foot of which the Tagus describes a long curve, flowing between the rocks, and passing under two bridges. The walls give it the appearance of an old fortress.

The principal archæological curiosities are as follows; The Puerta del Sol, a beautiful gate, of

Moorish construction, the palaces, and, above all the rest, the ALCAZAR, the towers of which overlook the city. It was the residence of the kings, and, in spite of the degradations to which it has been forced to submit, we can still judge of its former beauty.

THE CATHEDRAL was founded by St Eugene, apostle of Toledo. The Moors turned it into a mosque. The King, St Ferdinand, in 1227, began the building of the present church. The general plan is that of five parallel naves, the height of which diminishes towards the sides. The cathedral has eight gates, of marvellous workmanship, of Gothic sculpture, with the exception of one, where the bad taste has been displayed of adding a Greek portal. There is a three-storeyed tower, rising to the height of 325 feet.

In the interior are 88 pillars, formed by clusters of small columns. The choir contains a fine specimen of carved woodwork. The chapels are numerous, and are richly decorated with paintings and monuments. The two principal are the Capilla Mayor and the Mozarabe; in the latter chapel there are some fine frescoes.

The

The cathedral possesses treasures of immense value. sacristy contains numerous vestments covered with precious stones, and gold and silver plate of enormous value. There are 750 windows in the cathedral, and when the sun streams through the richly-painted glass it presents a scene of unequalled splendour. Some years since the doors of this vast treasure-house were unhesitatingly thrown open to tourists, but since the opening of the railway, the archbishop, alarmed, doubtless, at the increased number of unknown visitors, has caused the chapels con

taining all this treasure to be closed, and it is exceedingly difficult to get permission to view them. The cloisters have been sadly mutilated by the French. Here are some monuments, and the Library of the Chapter, which contains some curious old manuscripts, and very valuable illuminated missals.

The most frequented promenade in Toledo is in the Plaza of the Zocodover.

The once famous Toledo manufactory of arms is on the Tagus, about a mile from the city. The choicest Toledon blades are of a very fine temper and polish. This place has from very early times been celebrated for its cutlery, especially for the manufacture of these sword-blades. This is still a fruitful source of industry, though the rivalry of Sheffield and other places has deprived it of that ancient prestige which once secured it almost a monopoly amongst the military powers of southern and western Europe. Small arms for the Spanish army are still made at the Fabrica de Armas, which is shown to visitors. It is said that the water and the sand of the Tagus are essential for the proper tempering of the swords.