the residence of the Czars, is situated in a fertile district on the Moskva.

Previously to its being burned in 1812, Moscow was, perhaps, the most irregularly built city in Europe, and this description of it will, to a large extent, hold good at the present day. Its incongruities of architecture are, however, less conspicuous than they formerly were, when the flames of the Russian capital exerted so fatal an influence over the destinies of the first Napoleon.

The general view of the town, especially that obtained from an eminence on its southern side, called the Sparrow Hills, is eminently original and pictur

esque.

În the heart of the city is an inner enclosure, or citadel, the famous Kremlin, a triangle, two miles in circuit, crowded with palaces, churches, monasteries, arsenals, museums, and other buildings; but in which the Tartar style of architecture, with gilded domes and cupolas, forms the predominant feature.

The KREMLIN.-The REDEEMER'S GATE, (Spasky Vorota) is the sacred gate. Persons are required to uncover their heads in passing through it. It has an old painting, an object of great veneration to all Russians, before which candles are always burning. The Gate of St Nicholas is also an object of veneration.

The old palaces of the Kremlin were of wood, except the Granovitaia-Palata, and suffered much from the invasions of the Tartars, and from numerous fires. The Kremlin was almost entirely destroyed in 1812. The present PALACE was erected in the reign of Nicholas I. 1838-49. Among its departments are, the Hall of St George, the walls of which bear in gold letters, the names of soldiers decorated with that or

der; the Hall of St Alexander Nevsky; of St Andrew; St Catherine, and the banqueting-hall, decorated with scenes from Don Quixote. The Terema or Terem, a very interesting part of the Palace, was anciently devoted to the Empress and her children. It consists of four storeys, which diminish until the upper floor contains but one room. In the first storey are shown the Audience Chamber of the sovereigns. The Terem contains a collection of portraits of the Czars. The terrace commands a fine view. It was here Napoleon came to contemplate the marvels of the city.

The little Church of the Redeemer contains some rich decorations. Its exterior is remarkable for its twenty cupolas.

The Granovitaia - Palata contains the Hall where, after their coronation, the Emperors dined with the nobles.

The Little Palace (Maloi-Dvoretz), was built by Nicholas I., who resided in it for a few years after his marriage.

The CATHEDRAL OF THE ASSUMPTION is upon the Cathedral Place. It was founded in 1325 and rebuilt in 1472. It presents a curious assemblage of ornaments, arabesques, and pictures of saints. The architecture of the interior is Greco-Italian. Among its treasures are a Mount Sinai in pure gold; a Bible, the gift of the mother of Peter the Great, so heavy with gold and precious stones that two men are required to carry it; a picture, said to be by St Luke; and 2000 or more portraits of saints and celebrated personages. The Emperors of Russia are crowned in this church.

The Cathedral of the Archangel Michael, contains the portraits of the sovereigns of Russia up to Peter the Great, and their tombs.

The Church of the Annunciation, where the Czars are baptized, is rich in relics. Its pavement is of jasper, cornelian, and agate.

The House of the Synod was once the house of the Patriarchs of Moscow. It contains the treasury and library of the Patriarchs. The sacerdotal robes, church vessels and plate of the Patriarchs are deposited here. Here, in silver vessels, is kept the holy oil, made only by the Holy Synod of Moscow, with which all Russian children are baptized.

The TREASURY (open Mondays and Thursdays, and to see which a permit must be had at the Chamberlain's office in the Senate, within the Kremlin) contains a collection of objects of great value and interest. In one of the apartments are the old state carriages of the Court of Moscow; among them is a miniature carriage which belonged to Peter the Great when a child. The crowns are exceedingly rich in precious stones, that of Catherine I. containing no less than 2536, and that of Michael Romanoff 9000. The Arsenal, near the Treasury, contains a great number of cannon taken from the Turks, Swedes, Poles, French, and Prussians.

The Tower of Ivan Veliki, or John the Great, is the most remarkable in Moscow. It was built in 1600. It is five storeys high, four being octagonal and the last cylindrical. It is 320 feet high to the top of the cross. The base ment is a chapel. In the storeys above are 34 bells, the largest of which weighs 64 tons. These bells are all rung at Easter, producing a wonderful effect. The view from the summit of this tower is one of the most striking in the world.

The TSAR KOLOKOL, or Monarch of Bells is at the foot of the tower of Ivan. The tower in which it

was suspended was burned in 1737. In 1837 the Emperor Nicholas placed it in its present position. Its weight is 444,000 pounds. Its height is 20 feet, its circumference 60 ft. The figures in relief are those of Alexis and the Empress Ann, and on the scroll are represented the Saviour, the Virgin, and the Evangelists, surrounded by cherubims. value of the metal in this bell is estimated at £350,000.

The

Edifices outside the Kremlin.The Katai Gorod, or Chinese town, founded by Helena, the mother of John the Terrible, is under the walls of the Kremlin. It contains many important edifices, among others the Cathedral of St Basil, the bazaars, the Romanoff Palace, &c.

THE CATHEDRAL OF ST BASIL is a curious specimen of architecture. It is a medley of great and small domes, each different in colour and design, surmounting chapels dedicated to various saints. It was built in 1554, by Ivan IV. in memory of the capture of Kazan. The tradition is that he was so much pleased with it when completed that he caused the eyes of the Italian architect who planned it to be put out, so that it might never be surpassed.

The Iberian Gate and Chapel (Iverskie Vorata), dedicated to the Mother of God, is the principal entrance to the Kitai Gorod, or Chinese town. The chapel contains a picture of the Iberian Mother of God, brought from Mount Athos in the reign of Alexis (1650), and considered of miraculous efficacy. It is constantly beset by worshippers whose gifts amount to £7,000 per annum.

The Convent of Dunskoi, in the southern extremity of the city, that of Simonoff and of Devitchei are well worth visiting, as is the

Foundling Hospital, which admits 12,000 children every year.

The University, founded in 1775, numbers 900 students. The Great Riding School is said to be the largest room in the world unsupported by pillars. Its length is 560 ft., its breadth 158 ft. and its height 42 ft.

The Great Theatre contains an elegant hall.

The Gostinnoi Dvor, or bazaar, is an enormous building of three stories, filled with shops. It is the largest bazaar in Russia, except that at Nijni Novgorod. It contains more than 1,000 shops, in which is exposed for sale merchandise from all parts of the world.

The Villa of the Empress is a little way to the south-east of the city, close by the Moskova. It is a beautiful villa, surrounded by magnificent gardens. Near by are the Sparrow hills, from which Napoleon obtained his first view of Moscow.

ROUTE 196.

and the seat of a celebrated ecclesiastical seminary, within the precincts of which the remains of St Alexander Nevsky were for a long time entombed. Built on the wooded heights above the Kliazma, and adorned with a fine cathedral, it has a very imposing appearance. The inhabitants depend for subsistence chiefly on their orchards and on the traffic they carry on at the great fair of Nijni Novgorod. This province is one of the most fertile and industrious in the Empire. It exports large quantities of grain, and possesses many flourishing manufactories. The next place of importance is Kovrof (163 miles), (Buffet), population 4,000, on the right bank of the Kliazma. Here are some cotton factories, &c. Vrazniki (194 miles), (Buffet), population 5,000. Linen manufactures are carried on here. The country is rich in corn, great quantities of which are exported.

Nijni Novgorod, 271 miles), (Hotels: de Russie, Egoroff's), population 45,000, is situated at the confluence of the Oka with the Volga. It is divided into two parts, the high town and the low town. The high town

GOROD.

(The traveller is recommended to go by the night train, and, passing the day at Nijni Novgorod, to return to Moscow by the night train.)

2712 miles.

EAVING Moscow we reach PAVLOFSK (40 (Buffet). Passing several unimportant places, we arrive at VLADIMIR (117 miles), (Buffet), a town of 15,500 inhabitants, the capital of the province of that name,

some streets, which converge towards an irregular open space. Beyond this space rises the Kremlin, or citadel, finely situated on the highest point of the triangle, and immediately overhanging the bed of the Volga. It is surrounded by a wall 30 ft. in height, flanked with 13 towers, and contains the principal edifices of the town. Among those deserving of mention are the Cathedrals of the Archangel and of the Transfiguration, and the Governor's Palace. There are in all 48 churches, some of great size and beauty, two monasteries and a nunnery.

In the Citadel is an obelisk 76 ft. high, erected in memory of Minin and Pojarsky, the deliverers of Moscow

The town is noted for its great annual fair, which takes place in July and August, and which is attended by upwards of 200,000 persons. It is held on a spacious plain between the two rivers Oka and Volga. In the midst of this space, towards the end of July, an immense township suddenly starts into existence, having churches, hospitals, barracks and theatres. A handsome building is erected in the centre of the bazaar in which, during the continuance of the fair, the governor of the town, with a numerous train of officials resides.

Round the public offices are ranged the European wares. Next follow the Armenians. Nearly a whole side of the bazaar is occupied by the Chinese market, in which tea the chief article of trade. Here are merchants from Europe; Bokharians, Khivans, Kirghizes, Tartars, Armenians, Persians, and Chinese, all engaged in buying and selling, and surrounded by a motley group of visitors, not less amusing, in their individual characteristics, than the fair itself.

Merchandise to the amount of £16,000,000, often changes hands during the short time the fair lasts.

ROUTE 197.

ST PETERSBURG TO BERLIN, BY WARSAW.

(The route from St Petersburg to Wilna, is described in Route 194; that between Bromberg and Berlin, in Route 136.)

From St Patersburg to Warsaw, 652 miles; first class, 39 r. 21 c.; third, 15r. 4 c.

L

EAVING Wilna, we pass several stations, including Poreche (77 miles), (Buffet), and reach Grodno, a town of 25,000 inhabitants, situated on the Niemen. It was the ancient capital of Lithuania, and subsequently the residence of the kings of Poland. Here are some handsome churches, a palace, and a fine bridge across the river. Passing Bialystok, population 15,000, and several other places, we reach Lapy (1633 miles), (Buffet), and about four hours afterwards.

;

WARSAW (256 miles), (Hotels: see HOTEL LIST), population, 185,000. This was the capital of the ancient kingdom of Poland it is situated on the left bank of the Vistula, and is connected by a bridge of boats with the suburb of Praga, on the opposite side of the river. It is enclosed by a rampart and fosse, entered by ten gates, and defended by a vast citadel, recently erected.

It has several large public squares, among which that of Sigismund, adorned with a bronze colossal statue of Sigismund III., is particularly deserving of notice.

Among the principal public buildings, are, the Cathedral of

St John, a Gothic building of great beauty, containing statuettes and many interesting monuments, including one by Thorwaldsen; the Church of the Holy Cross; Carmelite and Lutheran churches, the latter a fine structure; the Zamek, or ancient palace of the Polish kings; the Palace of Casimir, adorned in front with a statue of Copernicus; the Saxon palace, with fine gardens and a promenade; the Krasinsky palace; the arsenal, mint, exchange, and national theatre.

Warsaw is an extensive commercial emporium, and has two large annual fairs, each of which lasts three weeks.

Of the castles in the vicinity, the residence of Sobieski is still remarked for its beautiful gardens, and for an equestrian statue of John Sobieski.

Since 1815, Warsaw has been the residence of a viceroy, representing the Emperor of Russia.

Leaving Warsaw, we pass Ruda Guzovska (28 miles), and reach SKIERNIEWITZ (42 miles), popula

tion, 3200. Here a branch goes to Vienna. Lovitsh, population, 5000, situated on the Bzur, is a commercial town, celebrated for its horse fairs. Kutno, situated on the Okhna, has 6000 inhabitants. Vlotslavek, population, 8000, situated on the Vistula. A considerable trade is done here in corn. Alexandrov is the last Russian station. The first Prussian station is Otloczyn. We presently reach THORN, (Hotel: Sans Souci), a town of 16,500 inhabitants, situated on the right bank of the Vistula, opposite Podgurcze, with which it is connected by a bridge about 900 yards long. This was the birthplace of the great astronomer, Copernicus, whose tomb is in the church of St John. The Hotel-de-Ville is partly of the fourteenth, partly of the sixteenth century. The Krumme Thurm is a leaning tower, about 50 feet high. We observe a curious old gateway, called Kulmer Thor, the ruins of a castle dating from the thirteenth centry, and tower called Katzenschwanz. BROMBERG.