ROUTE 210. CHRISTIANIA TO DRAMMEN, KONGSBERG, AND TO THE RJUKANFOS (THELMARKEN). R AILWAY to Kongsberg, 58 Eng. miles; fares, 5 k. 20.0, and 3 k. The route lies through a pleasant country, passing Sandviken (the place of departure for Ringerike and Hönefos) and several small stations. Asker, 23 Eng. miles, near which is the Vardekolle, a massive hill of granite 1130 feet high, from which there is a beautiful view It serves as a landmark for mariners. From it the whole town of Christiania and the Fjord are visible. A little beyond Řoken (45 Eng. miles) we have from the train a magnificent view of Drammen and the Fjord of the same name. DRAMMEN (Hotels: Central, KongCarl). This is a town of 19,000 inhabitants, with an enormous trade in timber which employs more than 300 vessels. At Hongsund, 12 Eng. miles beyond Drammen, the line to Kongsberg leaves the line to the Randsfjord, passengers by the former changing carriages. The first stop after leaving Hongsund, is Vestfossen (14 Eng. miles), passing which, and three other unimportant stations, we cross the Laagen and reach KONGSBERG (Hotel: Victoria), an uninteresting town supported by the Government silvermines in the vicinity. There are several routes from Kongsberg to the RJUKANFOS, by either of which the fall is distant 78 Eng. miles; but the most picturesque is that by Bolkesjo. The stages on this route are (21 Eng. miles): Bolkesjo (good inn), with magnificent views, and near which is the Folsjo, abounding in trout; and 9 miles farther on Tinoset, with a fair inn, on the lake called the Tinsjo, which is 28 Eng. miles long, and about 1 mile wide. The steamer leaves Tinoset for Strand, on Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays in the morning, and on Tuesdays in the afternoon, returning on Sundays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays in the morning, and Fridays in the evening. Proceeding by boat from Tinoset to Strand (24 Eng. miles), we disembark and take saddlehorses or carriages for the Rjukanfos. The Stol Kjaerre' takes two persons, costs 8 k. Horses to go and return cost 6 k. Seven Eng. miles from Strand is Dale (poor inn), near which is the Gausta Fjeld, 6,000 feet high. Ascending from Dale, we reach in two hours (7 Eng. miles from Dale) Vaar, from which it is necessary to go on foot half-anhour to Krokan, where there is an inn belonging to the "Tourist Club," a few minutes' walk from which is the famous RJUKANFOS, a magnificent fall of the MaanElv, estimated to be 800 feet in height, and one of the finest waterfalls in Europe. The scene in early summer, when the river is swollen with the melted snow, is very grand. ROUTE 211. DRONTHEIM TO HAMMERFEST. The great majority of travellers destined for Hammerfest or the North Cape join the steamers at Drontheim, thus avoiding the long journey in the steamer from Christiania or Bergen to Drontheim. There are two lines of steamers, the "Bergenske og-Nordenfjeldske" line, and the" BergenskeNordlandske" line. The first named dispatch one steamer weekly from Christiania and one from Hamburg. The other line have one steamer weekly from Christiansand. All these steamers touch at Drontheim. The fare from Christiania all the way by steamer to the North Cape, is, single ticket, £7, 7s. 9d.; return ticket, £11, 1s. From Bergen, single ticket £5, 6s. 8d.; return, £8. From Drontheim, single ticket, £4; return, £6. A reduction of half a fare is made to man and wife in the general sleeping-cabin. State rooms with four berths can be had for one or more passengers for three fares. Meals are charged 5 kroner (5s. 7d. English) per day extra. Steward's fee 6d. English per day. The captains all speak Eng lish. The MIDNIGHT SUN is visible at Bodo on this route from May 30 to July 12, at Tromsoe from May 17 to July 24, and at the North Cape from May 10 to July 31. The Christiania steamers usually spend at least one day at Tromsoe and Hammerfest respectively, before starting on their homeward journey. For the sailings of these and all other steamers on the Norwegian coast, passengers should consult the "Com municationer." On arriving at Drontheim, the intending passenger should go on board the steamer at once, and secure his berth. It is not safe to rely on letters or telegrams sent in advance, as the steamers are frequently crowded in summer, and preference is shown to passengers applying in person. THE BEST STEAMERS are those of the "Bergenske Nordlandske-Dampskibsselskabs," and are the "John Schoning," "Jonas Lie," Præsident Christi," and the "Michael Kroen." The captains of 2 20 these steamers are very obliging, and cheerfully give information when required by passengers. In addition to the fares which are given above, breakfast (Frokost) or supper (Aftensmad) each costs, 1 k. 25 o., and dinner (Middag) 2 k. 50 o. ; wine, beer, tea and coffee,are extra; spirits are not procurable. To prevent mistakes passengers usually pay the steward for their food every day. The distance from Drontheim to the North Cape is 840 English miles, and there are between the two places from 65 to 80 stations at which steamers call. The distances herein given are in ENGLISH MILES. HE more important stations are Bejan, 28 English miles, at the mouth Drontheim Fjord, after leaving which a northern course is taken. Bjoro, 100 miles, where we see white marks on the rocks and sometimes white planks in the water, the object of which is to decoy the salmon, who mistake them for waterfalls, into the nets. Namsos, 124 miles, soon after which we cross the Foldenfjord, with its multitude of islands. Gutvik, 124 miles, is now passed, and we steer towards the Island of Torgen, with the TORGHATTEN, or the "Hat of Torg," from a supposed resemblance it bears in shape to a colossal ". wide-awake. It is an insular granite rock, rising about 1000 feet above the sea. At the upper part, 600 or 700 feet above the sea, is a huge tunnel, through which day-light is visible clear through the body of the mountain. The height of the tunnel is about 60 feet at the entrance on the east side, 190 feet in the middle, and 230 feet at the west end. miles, a village of fishermen, and We next reach Bronosund, 168 after touching at Forvik, 20 miles beyond, we approach the imposing SEVEN SISTERS, a short range of mountains rising directly out of the sea to a height of 3000 or 4000 feet, and forming an island. They make a glorious panorama as the steamer passes by them. To the east is the lofty Finknoe. From Sannesoen, 204 miles, the view of the Seven Sisters is very grand. The next important station is Kobbardal, 212 miles, near the mouth of the Ranenfjord, which fjord the Christiania steamers traverse. Passing Vikholmen, 220 miles, we pass between the islands of Huglen, Hanneso, and Tombo, and see to the west the islands of LOVUNDEN, and the group of THRENEN, rocky islands 2000 feet high, the resort of great flocks of sea-birds. We soon come in sight of the HESTMANDSO, another mountain island, shaped like a horse with a mantled rider. Passing Indre Kvaro, 236 miles, we soon reach the Tvartis, which the steamer skirts, an enormous mass of snow and ice, six miles in length, and from two to four miles in breadth, and covering a mountain plateau more than 4000 ft. in height. From the plateau, numerous glaciers descend to within a few hundred feet of the sea. We now pass Selsovig (240 miles), Rodo-the Island of Grono-near which we obtain in the far north a glimpse of the LOFODEN ISLANDS. Just before reaching Rodo we cross the ARCTIC CIRCLE, and soon after enter the Saltenfjord, and reach BODO, 324 miles Hotel: Nilsens), a place of 1500 inhabitants, the seat of the provincial government, and a telegraph station. Passengers have time here before the departure of the steamer to ascend the Lobsass, a hill close to the town, which commands a beautiful view of the Lofoden Islands. This is the starting-point to the interesting Beierenfjord, Saltenfjord, and the Skjerstadfjord, and to the Lofoden Islands, to which there is a local steamer from Bodo, leaving once a week. The Christiania steamers touch at several points upon these islands on their way north. At the south of, and close to these islands, is the famous Maelstrom. Resuming our journey from Bodo, and passing Kjerringo and Groto, we cross the Vestfjord, which separates the Lofoden Islands from the mainland. This remarkable group, appearing from a distance like one continuous land, is a labyrinth of mountain and sea, the crooked passages between the islands resembling rivers. The cliffs generally rise precipitously from the water. The highest point among the islands is Vaagekallen. The Lofoden Islands are the seat of the cod fishery in February and March, and their inhabitants are all connected with it. After quitting the Lofodens, the coast views become less grand, and many tourists proceed no farther north. After touching at several stations, passing nothing which calls for a particular description, we reach TROMSOE, 196 miles from Bodo, 520 miles from Drontheim (Grand Hotel: Hotel Garni), a cheerful and busy town of 6000 inhabitants, which is sometimes called "the Paris of the North." There is a town-hall and a museum, also a telegraph office, and a great number of shops, at some of which furs may be purchased at moderate prices. The harbour presents a busy scene, the town carrying on a considerable trade with France and Russia. The chief attraction for tourists is the LAPP SETTLEMENT, not far off. It is usual for the captain to telegraph in advance for boats and guides to be ready on the arrival of the steamer. Cross ing the Sund, which is about mile wide, to the entrance of the Tromsdal, visitors walk thence in about an hour and a half to the encampment. The colony consists of six or seven families, who own 4000 to 5000 reindeer, a few hundreds only of which can be seen, when they are brought in to be milked. The Lapps live in bee-hive shaped huts, called gammas, about 18 ft. wide and 8 ft. high, formed of a framework of arched birch-sticks, covered with turf. They sell to travellers furboots, spoons, and other objects made of reindeer horn. Leaving Tromsoe, our route is frequently exposed to the storms and fogs of the Arctic Ocean. Nothing of special interest is encountered until we reach Bergsfjord, 100 miles from Tromsoe, where there is a magnificent mountain-scene, with a glacier in the back-ground. About 10 miles beyond is another glacier. Nothing calling for special description is passed before reaching HAMMERFEST, 346 miles from Bodo, 650 miles from Drontheim (Hotel Jansens). HAMMERFEST (population 2200) is the most northerly town in Europe. It is situated 70° 49' north latitude. Owing to the prevalence of south-west winds, and the influence of the Gulf stream, the fjords here are seldom frozen, and all through the winter the inhabitants carry on the whale-fishery, and the pursuit of the walrus and seal; also that of the reindeer and the eider-duck. The town has a clean appearance, but the air is often rendered offensive by the fumes of cod-liver oil, which is largely manufactured here. Lapps are frequently seen in the streets, and numbers of Finns and Russians visit the place in summer. Bear-skins and other furs, walrus tusks, and Lapp costumes are among the specialities sold in the shops. At Fuglnaes, about half an hour's walk from Hammerfest, near the lighthouse, there is a fine view of the horizon of the Arctic Ocean and the midnight sun. Leaving Hammerfest for the North Cape, we pass Rolfsohavn, on the desolate island of Rolfso, 20 miles from Hammerfest; Havosund, 32 miles; and reach GJESVAER, 128 miles from Hammerfest; good accommodation, moderate charges, and much attention are found at Hr. Lemming's, from whose house in favourable weather one may reach the NORTH CAPE in four hours, partly by boat. His charge for board and lodging is 6 kr. a day for each person. "It is well to be provided with English biscuits, a jar of good butter, soups, &c., for it may happen that several travellers have been there before, and there are no shops in the neighbourhood for Mr Lemming to replenish his house suddenly with such things." The river Tana, one of the best in Norway for salmon fishing, is about halfway between Hammerfest and Vadso. The steamer touches at Stangenæs, which is at the mouth of the river. Travellers may land and ascend the CAPE on the west side, but it is better to land at Hornvik, on the east side. The ascent requires about three-quarters of an hour, the path for the last third of the distance being steep and rough. The highest point of the promontory is about 1000 feet, and from it, the view embraces the heights of the Magerö, and to the north stretches the ARCTIC OCEAN. Bayard Taylor, who visited the North Cape at midnight, describes the scene as follows:"The headlands of this deeply indented coast, the capes of the Laxe and Porsanger Fjords and of Mageroe lay around us in different degrees of distance, but all with foreheads touched with supernatural glory. Far to the north-east was Nordkyn, the most northern point of the mainland of Europe, gleaming rosily and faint in the full beams of the sun, and just as our watches denoted midnight, the north_appeared to the westward, a long fine of purple bluff, presenting a vertical front of 900 ft. in height to the Polar Ocean. Midway between these two magnificent headlands stood the MIDNIGHT SUN, shining on us with subdued fires, and with the gorgeous colouring of an hour for which we have no name, since it is neither sunrise nor sunset, but the blended loveliness of both, but shining at the same moment in the heat and splendour of noonday on the Pacific isles.” "And then uprose before me, -Longfellow. |