View from the Battlements of the Castle-Situation of Sparta

-Inquiries on that subject — Visit to the Archbishop - His

Library-The Bazar

CHAPTER IV.

95

Palæochori, Ruins of ancient Sparta-Sensations on beholding

them-Temple of Minerva-View from the Hill of the Citadel

-The River Eurotas-Search for the Tomb of Leonidas--Ear-

liest Accounts of the Ruins of Sparta-Bivouac on the bank of

the Eurotas-Village of St. Paul-Tragic Event-Singular

Conduct of a Greek Peasant-The Guide loses the Way—

Dangerous Situation-Marsh of Lerne-Fever-Argos-M.

Avramiotti - Supposed Tomb of Agamemnon Ruins of My-

cena-Arrival at Corinth

CHAPTER V.

-

117

Corinth-Present State - Historical Recollections-Journey to

Megara Mount Oneius - Inhumanity of a Turkish Officer-

Mount Gerania - Megara-Knowledge of Medicine attributed

to the Franks The Author's Visit to a Patient-Tailless

Fowls-Mount Kerato Pyrgo-Conversation with a Greek—

Temple of Eleusis - Salamis-Supper at Eleusis -
- View of

Athens-The River Cephisus--Arrival at Athens

-

CHAPTER VI.

141

Writers on Athens-M. Fauvel, the French Consul-His House

-Dinner-News of Athens-Walk through the City-The

Areopagus-The Pnyx-Hill of the Museum-Monument of

Philopappus-Migration of Storks-The Citadel-Edifices of

Athens Temple of Minerva-Character of Grecian Architec-

ture-Destruction of the Edifices of Athens by the Moderns-

Lord Elgin and the Parthenon-View from the Citadel—

Memorials of Travel-The Stadium-The Ilissus-Remarkable

Columns-Women of Athens-The Harbours of the Phalereus,

Munychia, and Piræus-Supposed Tomb of Themistocles--

Solitude of the Piræus-Nature of that Port

CHAPTER VII.

165

Village of Angelo Kipous— Wood of Olive Trees — Academus

- Tombs of illustrious Athenians - Ruins of Theatres-Cruel

Exhibitions of Gladiators Tower of the Winds - The Lan-

tern of Demosthenes-French Missionaries at Athens-Father

Babin's Description of the Parthenon - Preparations for leav-

ing Athens - A Traveller's Reverie - Village of Keratia ·

The Author attacked by Fever He embarks for Cape Su-

nium-Sites of Greek Edifices-Temple of Cape Sunium-

Reflections on the state of Greece - Causes of its Decline

Character of the Modern Greeks - Character of the Turks-

Departure from Cape Sunium

197

PART II. THE ARCHIPELAGO, ANATOLIA,

-

AND CONSTANTINOPLE.

CHAPTER I.

Islands of the Archipelago-Zea-M. Pengali and his Family-

Eminent Natives of Zea, the ancient Ceos-Its Commerce-

A Wedding-Tino-Embarkation for Smyrna-View of the

Cyclades Chio-Smyrna-Choiseul's Account of the City-

Farewell Visit to the Author's Interpreter-Kan of Menemen

-The River Hermus-Ruins of Cyme and Neon Tychos-

Homer's Residence there-A Caravan

CHAPTER II.

232

Pergamus - Somma - Altercation with the Guide - Kircagach

Reception of the Author by the Governor and his Atten-

dants His complaint against the Guide - Decision of the

Governor - Kelembé - Inn of Emir Capi-Souseverlé-The

Granicus-Victory of Alexander - His Character-Mikalitza

-Embarkation for Constantinople-Descent of the River-Scene

at its Mouth-Arrival at Constantinople-Galata — Pera -

Attentions of General Sebastiani Reflections on Constan-

tinople
254

-

PART III.-RHODES, JAFFA, BETHLEHEM,

AND THE DEAD SEA.

CHAPTER I.

Embarkation with Greek Pilgrims for Palestine-Scene on Board

-Greek Psalmody-Sea of Marmora-The Dardanelles-Plain

of Troy-Greek Dance-Tchesmé-John, the new Interpreter

-Rhodes-Its History-Appearance of the Town-The Port

-Commerce and Manufactures of the Island-Character of

the Greeks as Sailors-A Supper on Deck-Ignorance of the

Ship's Situation-Swallows-Cyprus-Description of the Island

in Telemachus-View of Mount Carmel-Coast of Palestine

-Arrival at Jaffa

CHAPTER II.

277

Landing of the Pilgrims-The Hospital of the Fathers-The

Author's Reception there - Hardships endured by the Monks

-

-Sea of Tyre-Advice of the Rector- History of Jaffa, the

ancient Joppa-Departure from Jaffa-Plain of Sharon-Tower

of the Forty Martyrs - Rama — Aspect of the Town - Moun-

tains of Judea-Scene near the Village of St. Jeremiah-Arab

Boys performing the European Military Exercise Desert

Country-First sight of Jerusalem Camp of the Pacha of

Damascus - Entry into Jerusalem Convent of the Latin

Fathers-St. Francis's Day-Preparations for an Excursion to

the Jordan-Rama-Bethlehem

CHAPTER III.

-

-

301

History of Bethlehem-The Convent-The Church-The Subter-

ranean Church, the place of our Saviour's Nativity - The

Manger-Sepulchre of the Innocents-Grotto of St. Jerome-

Scenery about Bethlehem-Father Clement Grotto of the

Shepherds-Camps of Bedouins-Frays with them-Convent

of St. Saba-Valley of the Jordan-The River-The Dead Sea

-Analysis of its Water Description of the Dead Sea -The

Destroyed Cities - Marvellous Properties attributed to the

Waters of this Lake-The Tree of Sodom and its Apple - The

Jordan- Origin of its Name-Apprehended attack of Arabs-

Jericho-Ali Aga-Elisha's Spring-Character of the Arabs—

Return to Jerusalem

-

327

INTRODUCTION.

FIRST MEMOIR.

I SHALL divide this Introduction into two Memoirs; in the first I shall take up the history of Sparta and Athens, at about the age of Augustus, and bring it down to the present time. In the second I shall inquire into the authenticity of the religious traditions relative to Jerusalem.

Spon, Wheeler, Fanelli, Chandler, and Leroi have, it is true, treated of the fortunes of Greece in the middle ages; but the picture drawn by those writers is far from being a finished one. They have contented themselves with general facts, and not taken the trouble to dispel the confusion which pervades the history of the Byzantine empire; they were moreover ignorant of the existence of some Travels in the Levant. While I avail myself of their labours, I shall endeavour to supply their omissions.

As to the history of Jerusalem, it is involved in no obscurity in the barbarous ages; we never lose sight of the holy city. But when the pilgrims tell you: We repaired to the tomb of Jesus Christ; we entered the grotto where the Redeemer of the world sweated blood," &c. an

VOL. I.

B

incredulous reader might imagine that the pilgrims were misled by uncertain traditions. Now this is the point which I purpose to discuss in the second memoir of this Introduction.

B. C. 87. Plut.

I now proceed to the history of Sparta and Athens. When the Romans began to make their appearance in the East, Athens declared itself their enemy, and Sparta followed their fortunes. Sylla burned the in Syl. Appian. Piræus and Munychia; he plundered the city of Cecrops, and made such a slaughter of its citizens, that, as Plutarch informs us, their blood filled the whole Ceramicus, and ran out at the doors.

B. C. 87.

Dion. Appian."
Plut. in Vit.
Brut.

In the civil wars of Rome, the Athenians espoused the cause of Pompey, which they looked upon as the cause of Liberty; the Lacedæmonians adhered to Cæsar, who was too generous to revenge himself on B. C. 47. Cæs. Athens. Sparta, faithful to the memory of de Bell, civil Cæsar, fought at the battle of Philippi against Brutus, who had promised the pillage of Lacedæmon to his soldiers in case they were B. C. 41. Plut. Victorious. The Athenians erected statues to Brutus, attached themselves to Anthony, B. C. 21. Vell. and were punished by Augustus. Four years before the death of that prince, they revolted against him.

B. C. 44.

in Ant.

Pat. A. D. 10.
Suet. in Aug.

A. D. 25. Tit. Athens was free during the reign of Tiberius. Liv. An. 4. Sparta pleaded at Rome, and lost a petty cause against the Messenians, formerly its slaves. The contested point was the possession of the temple of Diana Limnatis, that very Diana whose festival was the occasion of the Messenian wars.

De Sit. Orb. 1.9.

If we suppose Strabo to have lived during the reign of Tiberius, the description of Sparta and Athens by that geographer must refer to the time of which we are now speaking.

A. D. 18. Tacit.
Ann. 1. 2.

When Germanicus visited Athens, out of respect to its former glory, he divested himself of the insignia of power, and was preceded by only a single lictor.