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as if the Turks were born only to buy, to sell, and to die. The cemeteries, without walls, and situated in the middle of the streets, are magnificent groves of cypresses; the doves build their nests in these trees and share the peace of the dead. Here and there you perceive antique structures, harmonizing neither with the modern inhabitants, nor with the new edifices by which they are surrounded: you would almost imagine that they had been transported into this oriental city by the effect of enchantment. No sign of joy, no appearance of comfort, meets your eye; what you see is not a people, but a herd tended by an iman and slaughtered by a janissary. Here is no pleasure but sensual indulgence, no punishment but death. The dull tones of a mandoline sometimes issue from the extremity of a coffee-room, and you perceive the children of infamy performing immodest dances before a kind of apes seated around small circular tables. Amidst prisons and bagnios rises a seraglio, the Capitol of slavery 'tis here that a consecrated keeper carefully preserves the germs of pestilence and the primitive laws of tyranny. Pallid votaries are incessantly hovering about this temple, and thronging to offer their heads to the idol. Hurried on by a fatal power, nothing can divert them from this sacrifice; the eyes of the despot attract the slaves, as the looks of the serpent are said to fascinate the birds on which he preys.

There are so many accounts of Constantinople, that it would be absurd in me to pretend to give a description of that city. The reader may, therefore, consult Stephen of Byzantium; Gylli de Topographia Constantinopoleos; Ducange's Constantinopolis Christiana; Porter's Observations on the Religion, &c. of the Turks; Mouradgea d'Ohsson's Tableau

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de l'Empire Ottoman; Dallaway's Ancient and Modern Constantinople; Paul Lucas; Thevenot ; Tournefort; lastly, the Voyage pittoresque de Constantinople et des Rives du Bosphore; the fragments published by M. Esmenard, &c. &c.

There are several inns at Pera which resemble those of the other cities of Europe; to one of these inns I was conducted by the porters, who officiously seized my baggage. I then repaired to the French palace. I had had the honour of seeing at Paris General Sebastiani, ambassador from France to the Porte he insisted on my dining every day at his table; and it was only on my earnest solicitation that he permitted me to remain at my inn. By his directions, the Messrs. Franchini, the chief drogmans to the embassy, procured the firmans necessary for my voyage to Jerusalem, which the ambassador accompanied with letters addressed to the superior of the religious in the Holy Land, and to our consuls in Egypt, and in Syria. Fearing lest I should run short of money, he gave me permission to draw bills upon him at sight whenever I might have occasion; and, adding to these important services the attentions of politeness, he condescended to show me Constantinople himself, and to conduct me to the most remarkable structures. His aides-de-camp and the whole legation shewed me so many civilities that I was absolutely put to the blush; and I deemed it my duty to express in this place my unfeigned gratitude to those gentlemen.

I know not how to speak of another person whom I ought to have mentioned the first. Her extreme kindness was accompanied with a moving and pensive grace, which seemed to be a presentiment of what was to follow: she was nevertheless happy, and a particular circumstance heightened her fe

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licity. I myself shared that joy which was so soon to be converted into mourning. When I left Constantinople, Madame Sebastiani was in the bloom of health, hope, and youth; and before my eyes again beheld our country, she was incapable of hearing the expression of my gratitude :

Trojâ infelice sepultum

Detinet extremo terra aliena solo.

At this very time a deputation from the Fathers of the Holy Land happened to be at Constantinople. They had repaired thither to claim the protection of the ambassador against the tyranny of the governor of Jerusalem. The Fathers furnished me with letters of recommendation for Jaffa. By another piece of good fortune, the vessel carrying the Greek pilgrims to Syria was just ready to depart. She lay in the road, and was to sail with the first fair wind: so that, had my intention of exploring the plain of Troy been accomplished, I should have been too late for the voyage to Palestine. The bargain was soon concluded with the captain, and the ambassador sent on board for me a supply of the most delicate provisions. He gave me a Greek, named John, a servant of the Messrs. Franchini, for my interpreter. Loaded with kindness and good wishes, I went, on the 18th of September at noon, on board the ship of the pilgrims.

I must confess that, if I was sorry to quit those from whom I had received such extraordinary attention and civility, I was nevertheless very glad to leave Constantinople. The feelings which, in spite of you, will obtrude themselves in that city, spoil all its beauty. When you reflect that these regions were formerly inhabited but by Greeks of the Eastern Empire, and that they are now possessed by Turks, you are shocked at the contrast between the people

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and the country; you think that slaves so base, and tyrants so cruel, ought never to have dishonoured such magnificent abodes. I had arrived at Constantinople on the very day of a revolution: the rebels of Romelia had advanced to the gates of the city. Obliged to bend to the storm, Selim had exiled and dismissed the ministers obnoxious to the janissaries; it was expected every moment that the discharge of cannon would announce the execution of the proscribed. When I contemplated the trees and the palaces of the seraglio, I could not suppress a feeling of compassion for the ruler of this vast empire.* Oh! how wretched are despots amidst their prosperity, how weak amidst their power! how are they to be pitied who wring floods of tears from so many of their fellow-creatures, without being sure that it will not come to their turn to weep, without being able to enjoy the slumbers of which they deprive the unfortunate!

My residence at Constantinople was disagreeable. I take delight in visiting such places only as are embellished by virtues or by the arts; and I found neither in this country of the Phocases and the Bajazets. My wishes were soon fulfilled, for we weighed anchor on the very day of my embarkation, at four in the afternoon. We hoisted our sail to the north wind, and steered towards Jerusalem under the banner of the cross, which waved at the masthead of our vessel.

* The unhappy end of Selim has but too well justified this pity.

PART THE THIRD.

RHODES, JAFFA, BETHLEHEM,

AND

THE DEAD SEA.

CHAPTER I.

Embarkation with Greek Pilgrims for Palestine-Scene on Board -Greek Psalmody-Sea of Marmora-The Dardanelles-Plain of Troy-Greek Dance-Tchesmé-John, the new Interpreter -Rhodes-Its History-Appearance of the Town-The Port -Commerce and Manufactures of the Island-Character of the Greeks as Sailors-A Supper on Deck-Ignorance of the Ship's Situation-Swallows-Cyprus-Description of the Island in Telemachus-View of Mount Carmel-Coast of Palestine -Arrival at Jaffa.

WE had on board near two hundred passengers, men, women, and children; the like number of mats were seen ranged in order on either side of the ship between decks. A slip of paper pasted above each mat was inscribed with the name of the owner. Each of the pilgrims had suspended his staff, his chaplet, and a small cross over his pillow. The captain's cabin was occupied by the papas who were the conductors of the company. At the entrance of this cabin, two antechambers had been contrived: in one of these dark holes, about six feet square,

I