298 COAST OF PALESTINE. : came Cape Blanco, St. John d'Acre, Mount Carmel with Caifa at its foot, Tartoura, formerly Dora, the Pilgrims' Castle, and Cæsarea, the ruins of which are to be seen. We knew that Jaffa must be right ahead of us, but it was not yet discernible. The coast then gradually sunk to the last cape towards the south, where it was entirely lost here commenced the shores of ancient Palestine, here they join those of Egypt, and are nearly upon a level with the sea. The land, eight or ten leagues distant from us, appeared generally white, with black undulations produced by the shadows; there was nothing prominent in the oblique line which it formed from north to south: Mount Carmel itself was not conspicuous; the whole was uniform and dull. A file of white and indented clouds followed the direction of the land upon the horizon, and seemed to repeat the appearance of it in the sky. At noon the wind failed us; a breeze sprung up at four o'clock, but, through the ignorance of the pilot, we overshot our mark. We were steering in full sail for Gaza, when the pilgrims, from the inspection of the coast, discovered the mistake of our German; we were then obliged to put the ship about, which occasioned a loss of time, and night came on. We, however, approached Jaffa, and could even perceive the lights in the town, when, a stiff breeze beginning to blow from the north-west, the captain was afraid to venture into the road in the night, and suddenly turning the head of the ship, he put off again to sea. I was standing on the poop, and beheld the land receding from us with real mortification. In about half an hour, I perceived something like the distant reflection of a fire on a peak of a chain of mountains; these were the mountains of Judea. The moon, that produced the effect with which I was struck, soon shewed her ample and blushing orb above Jerusalem. A friendly hand seemed to place this pharos on the summit, to guide us to the Holy City. Unfortunately, we were not disposed, like the Magi, to follow the kindly luminary, and her refulgence served only to light us from the so ardently wished-for port. The next morning, October 1st, at break of day, we found ourselves becalmed off the coast, nearly abreast of Cæsarea: we were now obliged to range again to the south along the shore. The little wind we had was fortunately fair. In the distance rose the amphitheatre of the mountains of Judea, at the foot of which a spacious plain descended to the sea. Scarcely any traces of cultivation were perceptible, and not a habitation was to be seen but a Gothic castle in ruins, surmounted with a falling and deserted minaret. On the border of the sea, the land was terminated by yellow cliffs streaked with black; from these sloped the beach, on which we saw and heard the billows breaking. The Arab, roving on this inhospitable shore, pursues with eager eye the vessel that scuds along the horizon; he lurks, in expectation of the plunder of the wreck, on that very shore where Christ gave the injunction to feed the hungry and to clothe the naked. At two P. M. we at length again descried Jaffa. We were perceived from the city; a boat put off from the harbour, and came to meet us. I availed myself of this opportunity to send John on shore, with the letter of recommendation given me at Constantinople by the deputies from the Holy Land, and addressed to the Fathers of Jaffa. This letter I accompanied with a note from myself. anchor off Jaffa, the town bearing south-east, and the minaret of the mosque east-south-east. I am particular in marking the points of the compass in this place, for a reason of some consequence: the Latin vessels usually bring-to farther out in the offing; they are then upon a ledge of rocks, which are liable to cut their cables, whereas the Greek vessels, by standing in closer to the shore, find a much safer bottom between the basin of Jaffa and the rocks. CHAPTER II. Landing of the Pilgrims-The Hospital of the Fathers-The Author's Reception there - Hardships endured by the Monks -Sea of Tyre Advice of the Rector- History of Jaffa, the ancient Joppa-Departure from Jaffa-Plain of Sharon-Tower of the Forty Martyrs - Rama-Aspect of the Town - Mountains of Judea-Scene near the Village of St. Jeremiah-Arab Boys performing the European Military Exercise- Desert Country-First sight of Jerusalem - Camp of the Pacha of Damascus - Entry into Jerusalem Convent of the Latin Fathers-St. Francis's Day-Preparations for an Excursion to the Jordan-Rama-Bethlehem. JAFFA exhibits a miserable assemblage of houses, huddled together, and built in the form of an amphitheatre, on the declivity of a lofty hill. The calamities which this town has so often experienced have multiplied the number of its ruins. A wall, beginning and ending at the sea, encompasses it on the land-side and secures it from any sudden surprise. Galley-boats soon approached from all quarters to fetch the pilgrims; the dress, features, complexion, look, and language of the masters of these boats at once announced the Arab race and the frontiers of the desert. The landing of the passengers was 302 LANDING OF THE PILGRIMS. conducted without tumult, but with a degree of eagerness on their part that was very excusable. This crowd of men, women, and children, did not set up those shouts, those howlings, and lamentations, represented in some imaginary and ridiculous accounts. They were perfectly composed, and among them all I was certainly the most agitated. At length I perceived a boat coming with my Greek servant, accompanied by three of the religious. The latter knew me by my Frank dress, and waved their hands in the most friendly manner. They soon reached the ship. Though these Fathers were Spaniards, and spoke an Italian that was difficult to be understood, we shook hands like real countrymen. I went with them into the boat, and we entered the port by an aperture formed between two rocks, and dangerous even for so small a vessel. The Arabs on shore advanced into the water up to their waists, to take us upon their shoulders. Here ensued a diverting scene. My servant had on a light drab great coat, and white being the colour of distinction among the Arabs, they judged that he was the sheik. Accordingly, they laid hold of him and carried him off in triumph, in spite of his protestations, whilst I, thanks to my blue coat, rode obscurely on the back of a ragged beggar. We proceeded to the hospital of the Fathers, a plain wooden building close to the harbour, commanding a very fine view of the sea. My hosts first led me to the chapel, which I found lighted up, and where they returned thanks to God for having sent them a brother-affecting Christian institutions, by means of which the traveller finds friends and accommodations in the most barbarous regions: in |