is a problem which the science of our own day fails to unravel.

The Circular Temple is close to the modern village. It is a gem in its exterior, but has nothing remarkable inside. Eight Corinthian columns, each a monolith, surround it, while a richly-executed frieze of flowers adorns the wall of the cella. The entablature is heavily laden with decoration. As late as a century ago Christians of the Greek Church worshipped here, but a century hence it is probable the Circular Temple will be no more.

A traveller who had but recently passed through Palestine has thus described his impressions: "There are many things to wonder at and admire in Ba'albek. One never wearies of gazing upon those graceful ruins, beautiful from every aspect and in every light; but it is not on holy ground' that we are standing, and with the influences upon us which the ruins of Palestine have created, we forget the might of Phoenician strength, the poetry of Grecian architecture, the pomp of Roman power, and sigh to think that all this magnificence was pride, this worship pagan, and all this skill and grace and beauty defiled by voluptuous and soul-destroying sin. I climbed a wall and sat upon a richly-sculptured parapet, watching the sunset. To the left was Hermon, to the right Lebanon, and at my feet the whole vast area of ruins. It was an hour full of suggestion, and one could not fail to trace how the word of the Lord was receiving its fulfilment ; how the false systems were lying in the dust and darkness, while His own prophetic proclamation was gaining daily new force and power: 'I am the light of the world.'

FROM BA'ALBEK TO BEYROUT DIRECT. The journey from Ba'albek to Shtôra (p. 356), on the Damascus road, is a good seven hours' journey.

Soon after leaving the ruins, the Quarries, from whence the great stones used for the platform of the Temple of the Sun were excavated, are passed. There is one gigantic stone still lying where it was left by the Phœnician workmen 4,000 years ago. It is 68 ft. long, 14 high, and 14 broad. It is estimated that it weighs nearly 1200 tons.

Our course now lies over the Buka'a, the broad valley between Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon, which we cross diagonally, and observe one or two ruins on the right, scarcely worth the trouble of visiting.

The valley looks smooth, level, and well cultivated; but after rains it is difficult riding, as there are so many swampy places. The journey will be broken for mid-day rest and lunch at the village at Kerak Nûh, where there is the reputed tomb of Noah, which measures between fifty and sixty yards in length! It is probably a disused aqueduct. Near here is a village, very beautiful for situation, called Nur 'Allaka, surrounded by groves and orchards, and in the midst of fertility.

Zahleh is a large town, the largest in Lebanon, with a population of nearly sixteen thousand, of whom more than nine-tenths are Christians. There is an air of comfort and cleanliness about the place, and intelligence among the people, more than is met with elsewhere.

A good wine is grown in the neighbourhood, and there are many thriving manufactories.

Through the steep streets there is a watercourse, in which babbles a brook descending from the Sannîn, a mountain hard by. During the massacre of 1860 the town suffered terribly, and was captured by the Druses, who burnt it to the ground.

In less than an hour from here we reach Shtôra, where we join the diligence route (p. 356).

It is usual to camp somewhere by the road-side, or at Shtôra, and resume the journey on the following morning.

A good road, gently winding, leads by a series of zig-zags to the summit of Lebanon, and then descends by another series of zig-zags to Beyrout.

When the Summit of Lebanon is reached, the scenery is exquisite. On our right-hand is a wild, magnificent gorge, the Wady Hummâna; below, at a terrible depth, may be seen the promontory of Beyrout, flecked with its white houses, while beyond is the broad blue Mediterranean; in the background on the right and left are wild and barren mountains The traveller should stay here awhile at this wondrous summit, 5,600 ft. above the sea level, until he has fully taken in the magnificence of the scene.

Descending towards Beyrout, every turn of the road gives fresh glimpses of Beyrout and its charming environs. As we clear the level a civilized region is entered, orchards and gardens abound, pleasant villas are seen on every hand, the Pineta, or pine-grove, is traversed, and soon we find ourselves among the shops and paved streets of Beyrout.

BEYROUT

(Hotel Belle Vue.)

[Beyrout is the principal commercial town of Syria, and is strangely different from any other. Bankers abound; there are Consulates of all the principal countries in the world. Almost everything that can be purchased in a European city may be purchased in Beyrout, and souvenirs of Arab work may be bought to advantage. At the hotels, vendors of photographs, worked slippers, and other things, are persistent in their endeavours to effect a sale; but the traveller will do better, as a rule, to make a bargain at the shops.

There are several Physicians, English, American, etc., resident in the city. Good sea baths may be obtained near to the Hotel Belle Vue, and all the luxuries of the barber's establishment may be enjoyed at any of the barber's shops in Frank Street. There are many pleasant ways of spending time in Beyrout, if the traveller is detained here for a steamer. Pleasant excursions may be made in the environs. Horses and carriages may be hired, although there is not a great diversity of drives. The bathing and fishing in the bay are excellent, and the German and Swiss Club is plentifully supplied with newspapers.]

Beyrout is beautifully situated on a promontory, which extends for about three miles into the Mediterranean.

The shore line is indented with fine rocks and cliffs, and rising behind them undulations upon undulations, and in the background the gigantic range of Lebanon. The population has increased within the past few years, and is said to exceed at the present time 80,000. The climate is pleasant, and vegetation luxuriant; the palm-tree flourishes, and flowers bloom everywhere in abundance.

The history of Beyrout is a long and interesting one. It was a Phoenician city of great antiquity, and named by the Greeks and Romans Bérytus. Augustus made it a colony with the title Colonia Felix Julia, and medals struck in honour of the Roman Emperors bore the legend, "Colonia Felix Beritas" (Plin. v. 20). It was decorated with a theatre, baths, and amphitheatre by Agrippa, grandson of Herod the Great, who also instituted games and gladiatorial shows. It was celebrated under the later Empire for its law school, founded by Alexander Severus. The splendour of this school, which preserved in the East the language and

jurisprudence of the Romans, may be computed to have lasted from the third to the middle of the sixth century (Gibbon ii. 94).

When the Saracens overran Syria, Beyrout fell into their hands, and during the wars of the Crusaders it often changed hands. It was captured by Baldwin I. in 1100, and was occupied for some time by Saladin. The Druse prince, Fakhr-ed-Din, made it his residence in 1595, and was instrumental in raising it from the low state into which it had fallen.

In 1840, Beyrout was bombarded by the English, and recaptured for the Turks. After the massacres of 1860 many Christians came and settled here, and from that date the prosperity of Beyrout has been greater than in any previous period of its history. There are scarcely any sights for the traveller to see. The Bazaar does not present any of those Oriental features which are so attractive in other Eastern towns. The principal Mosque is closed. The only ancient structure is the Tower near the harbour. The houses are of semi-European build, and the costumes of semi-European cut.

Beyrout is famous for its missionary and philanthropic institutions, and every traveller will do well to visit them, as they represent a great power which will revolutionize Syria.

The Syrian Protestant College has departments in Arabic Literature, Mathematics, Natural Sciences, Modern Languages, Moral Science, Biblical Literature, Medicine, Surgery, Jurisprudence, etc.; it is under the general control of trustees in the United States, where the present funds are invested; but its local affairs are administered by a Board of Managers, composed of American and British Missionaries and residents in Syria and Egypt.