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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

THE BANNER OF THE PROPHET AT THE FEAST OF BAIRAM

Frontispiece

FACING PAGE

OLD MAN PLAYING NATIVE LUTE IN THE BAZARS AT CAIRO

Native children behind him.

4

THE AUTHOR IN HIS ARAB DRESS

5

THB POTTERS' MARKET, WITH MOSQUE AND FELLAH WOMEN IN THE

BACKGROUND, AT GIZEH, A SUBURB OF CAIRO

16

17

AN EGYPTIAN VILLAGE LARDER

In this, made of mud, the guileless Egyptian puts his corn and vegetables to
keep them from the goats, and his children, to keep them from the snakes
and scorpions. It looks like a font for the baptism of a giant.

17

EGYPTIAN BOYS AND GIRLS

One boy is playing on the double Arab pipe, which may go back to Ptolemaic
times, since they have much the same pipes in Sicily, which are always sup-
posed to have come down from the age of Theocritus.

THE OCCUPATION OF EGYPT-SLEEPING

Scene taken near the Serapeum at Sakkara, the ancient Memphis.

26

EGYPTIAN WOMAN WITH HER SHAWL OVER THE BURDEN ON HER HEAD
TO SHIELD HER FROM THE FIERCE SUN .

On the road from Karnak to Luxor. In the background are camels carrying
stones for building.

.

27

AT LUXOR

36

Women with their shawls over their head-burdens to protect them from the

sun.

EXIT EGYPT

Fellah in his ordinary costume, riding a donkey.

37

FELLAHIN WAITING FOR THE POLICE-COURT TO OPEN AT LUXOR

44

AT DAMIETTA

Forage ass protesting.

45

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PACING PAGE THE AVENUE OF SPHINXES AND PTOLEMAIC PYLON AT KARNAK

216 The old man in the foreground is a Mohammedan saint going through his religious exercises.

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222

THE CASTLE OF ABUKIR AND THE SCENE OF THE BATTLE OF THE NILE

The sea beyond is Abukir Bay, in which Nelson won the Battle of the Nile.
The French held this castle during the battle.

223

A FELLAH'S FARM NEAR KARNAK

In the foreground are a pair of baby buffaloes.

238

A FELLAH FAMILY IN THE FAYUM

Th is is probably the way in which Joseph and Mary and the Child Jesus went
down into Egypt.

PIGEON-TOWERS IN THE FAYUM

239

In the village at the foot of the Hawara Pyramid.

THE VILLAGE OF KURVA AND ITS FELLAHIN ON THE PLAIN OF THEBES

250

251

GYASSAS ON THE NILE

With the hills of Thebes in the background.

274

KHARGA VILLAGE, IN THE GREAT OASIS OF THE LIBYAN DESERT

Children collected round the village fountain.

UNDER PROTEST

275

To mount a camel a lady needs the assistance of at least three people. The
camel generally roars all the time.

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A ROMAN CASTLE IN THE GREAT OASIS OF THE LIBYAN DESERT

Which is Herodotus's Island of the Blest.

DOUM PALM AND WELL IN THE ROMAN CASTLE OF THE GREAT OASIS

292

293

ARAB SALUTATIONS

A group of dragomans on the river bank at Luxor, with the hills of Thebes
in the background.

THE TEMPLE OF PTAH AT KARNAK, WHERE THE MOON SHINES ON THE
INAGE OF THE GODDESS SEKKET

This is the image which the fellahin think is an ogre who devours children.

310

A VILE VILLAGE

311

All the way up the Nile one sees reflected in its waters palm groves and
pigeon-towers and the white tombs of saints. One is never out of sight of
a human habitation, hardly for a minute without the presence of human
beings.

.

PACING PAGE THB STATUE OF VEMNON AT THEBES

326 It and its fellow are usually called the Colossi of Thebes. They are loftier than the great Buddha of Kamakura in Japan. The right-hand Colossus is supposed to be "The Vocal Statue of Memnon.” They stood outside the mortuary temple of King Amen-hetep III., which has now disappeared. At high Nile the land on which they stand is inundated.

327

THE VALLEY OF THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS AT THEBES

The rocks of the exterior, with their noble architectural effects, are little
less marvellous than the tombs, some of them as long as a great cathedral,
hewn into the heart of the close white limestone, as finely grained as marble,
and frescoed from end to end with the elaborate imagery of the Book of the
Dead.

.

THE GAMOOSE, OR BUFFALO

The proverb for stupidity in Egypt.

.

332

BOY WORKING A SHADÔF

With the Ramesseum Temple in the background. On the plain of Thebes.

333

DRAGOMAN EXPLAINING CARTOUCHES IN THE TEMPLE OF KOMOMBO

Mohammed, the chief Dragoman of Thomas Cook & Son in Egypt.

350

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SAINT'S TOMB IN THE DESERT BEHIND THE CATARACT HOTEL AT

ASSUAN

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365

On the road to the Great Dam.

AN ASSUAN GALLEY AND THE ISLAND OF ELEPHANTINE

Taken from my bedroom balcony, in the Cataract Hotel. These galleys are
of an ancient Roman pattern, hardly changed.

380

A TYPICAL NILE TOWN

381

.

412

THE TEMPLE OF AMON-RA AT KARNAK

The largest in the world. The ruins of this group are a mile and a half round.
Sir H. Beerbohm Tree's False Gods at His Majesty's had its principal scene
laid in this temple.

THE YOUNG IDEA

Taken at the village just outside Karnak. The idea of these boys is to make
small piastres by stripping to run races or pose for the Kodaket.

413

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