LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS THE BANNER OF THE PROPHET AT THE FEAST OF BAIRAM Frontispiece FACING PAGE OLD MAN PLAYING NATIVE LUTE IN THE BAZARS AT CAIRO Native children behind him. 4 THE AUTHOR IN HIS ARAB DRESS 5 THB POTTERS' MARKET, WITH MOSQUE AND FELLAH WOMEN IN THE BACKGROUND, AT GIZEH, A SUBURB OF CAIRO 16 17 AN EGYPTIAN VILLAGE LARDER In this, made of mud, the guileless Egyptian puts his corn and vegetables to 17 EGYPTIAN BOYS AND GIRLS One boy is playing on the double Arab pipe, which may go back to Ptolemaic THE OCCUPATION OF EGYPT-SLEEPING Scene taken near the Serapeum at Sakkara, the ancient Memphis. 26 EGYPTIAN WOMAN WITH HER SHAWL OVER THE BURDEN ON HER HEAD On the road from Karnak to Luxor. In the background are camels carrying . 27 AT LUXOR 36 Women with their shawls over their head-burdens to protect them from the sun. EXIT EGYPT Fellah in his ordinary costume, riding a donkey. 37 FELLAHIN WAITING FOR THE POLICE-COURT TO OPEN AT LUXOR 44 AT DAMIETTA Forage ass protesting. 45 . PACING PAGE THE AVENUE OF SPHINXES AND PTOLEMAIC PYLON AT KARNAK 216 The old man in the foreground is a Mohammedan saint going through his religious exercises. 222 THE CASTLE OF ABUKIR AND THE SCENE OF THE BATTLE OF THE NILE The sea beyond is Abukir Bay, in which Nelson won the Battle of the Nile. 223 A FELLAH'S FARM NEAR KARNAK In the foreground are a pair of baby buffaloes. 238 A FELLAH FAMILY IN THE FAYUM Th is is probably the way in which Joseph and Mary and the Child Jesus went PIGEON-TOWERS IN THE FAYUM 239 In the village at the foot of the Hawara Pyramid. THE VILLAGE OF KURVA AND ITS FELLAHIN ON THE PLAIN OF THEBES 250 251 GYASSAS ON THE NILE With the hills of Thebes in the background. 274 KHARGA VILLAGE, IN THE GREAT OASIS OF THE LIBYAN DESERT Children collected round the village fountain. UNDER PROTEST 275 To mount a camel a lady needs the assistance of at least three people. The A ROMAN CASTLE IN THE GREAT OASIS OF THE LIBYAN DESERT Which is Herodotus's Island of the Blest. DOUM PALM AND WELL IN THE ROMAN CASTLE OF THE GREAT OASIS 292 293 ARAB SALUTATIONS A group of dragomans on the river bank at Luxor, with the hills of Thebes THE TEMPLE OF PTAH AT KARNAK, WHERE THE MOON SHINES ON THE This is the image which the fellahin think is an ogre who devours children. 310 A VILE VILLAGE 311 All the way up the Nile one sees reflected in its waters palm groves and . PACING PAGE THB STATUE OF VEMNON AT THEBES 326 It and its fellow are usually called the Colossi of Thebes. They are loftier than the great Buddha of Kamakura in Japan. The right-hand Colossus is supposed to be "The Vocal Statue of Memnon.” They stood outside the mortuary temple of King Amen-hetep III., which has now disappeared. At high Nile the land on which they stand is inundated. 327 THE VALLEY OF THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS AT THEBES The rocks of the exterior, with their noble architectural effects, are little . THE GAMOOSE, OR BUFFALO The proverb for stupidity in Egypt. . 332 BOY WORKING A SHADÔF With the Ramesseum Temple in the background. On the plain of Thebes. 333 DRAGOMAN EXPLAINING CARTOUCHES IN THE TEMPLE OF KOMOMBO Mohammed, the chief Dragoman of Thomas Cook & Son in Egypt. 350 SAINT'S TOMB IN THE DESERT BEHIND THE CATARACT HOTEL AT ASSUAN . . 365 On the road to the Great Dam. AN ASSUAN GALLEY AND THE ISLAND OF ELEPHANTINE Taken from my bedroom balcony, in the Cataract Hotel. These galleys are 380 A TYPICAL NILE TOWN 381 . 412 THE TEMPLE OF AMON-RA AT KARNAK The largest in the world. The ruins of this group are a mile and a half round. THE YOUNG IDEA Taken at the village just outside Karnak. The idea of these boys is to make 413 |