Zurich. Leaving Winterthur we continue along the valley of the Töss, passing, on the left, the Castle of Kyburg, formerly in the possession of the Imperial House of Austria. It became the property of Rudolph of Hapsburg in 1264. He and his two successors kept the regalia of the German Empire in the chapel of the castle. It is open to the public -admission 50 centimes. Crossing the river Töss, we proceed along the valley of the Glatt, and reach WALLISELLEN (30 miles); we next pass through a long tunnel under the hill of Weid and reach

ZURICH (35 miles), (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST."

ARRIVAL-All the hotels send omnibuses and porters to meet the trains.

Cab hire-For hour, 1 or 2 persons, 80 centimes; 3 or 4 persons, 1 franc 50 centimes; each trunk, 20c.

ENGLISH CHURCH service in the Chapel of St Anna.

It is at the north end of the lake that bears its name. It has been called the intellectual capital of Switzerland, and is undoubtedly the first in manufacturing importance. The busy part of the town abounds in mills and factories, while the other part contains many fine houses. The shores of the lake are covered with vineyards, corn-fields, and pleasant gardens, interspersed with country houses and cottages. There are few important buildings to attract the attention of the tourist. The new Bourse is a handsome structure. The Arsenal contains a large collection of armour and weapons, ancient and modern. Here is a standard, taken from Charles the Bold, and a cross-bow, said to have belonged to William Tell. The large building on the height above the town is the Polytechnic

School. The City Library contains portraits of all the burgomasters of Zurich, three letters of Lady Jane Grey, the Greek Bible of Zwingli, his portrait, and a bust of Lavater. Zwingli ministered in the church called the Gross Munster. His residence was No. 185 in the Grosse Stadt. Lavater was minister of the Church of St Peter. He was shot by a French soldier, September 26, 1799, when the town was taken by the French under Masséna. The UETLIBERG, the northernmost point of the Albis range, 5 miles south-west of Zurich, affords a fine point of view. It may be reached by railway to the top in half an hour. Fare: return ticket, 3 francs. The view embraces the Lake of Zurich, the Valley of the Limmat, the Alps from the Sentis to the Jungfrau, the Stockhorn, Rigi, and Pilatus. There is a large hotel near the top, and farther up at the top, an extensive restaurant (rebuilt after a fire in Nov. 1878).

Besides Lavater, Gesner and Pestalozzi were natives of Zurich.

ROUTE 99.

ZURICH TO COIRE, AND
THE SPLUGEN PASS
TO COMO.

To Coire, 80 miles. 1st class, 14.70 francs; 2d, 8.60 francs; 3d, 6.15 francs.

(Travellers who desire to see the fine scenery of the Lake of Zurich may go by boat to Rapper schwyl, at the upper end, and join the railway there. The railway does not approach the lake until Rapperschwyl is reached. Boats leave Zurich several times a day. Time occupied, 2 hours. The Lake is 25 miles long, and 23 miles broad at its widest part. Its scenery is not so grand as that of Lucerne, but is not excelled in beauty by that of any of the Swiss lakes.)

EAVING Zurich, by rail we proceed to Wadenswyl (15 miles), where a railway goes off to the right to EINSIEDELN, celebrated for the number of pilgrims who resort to its Abbey (150,000 annually).

It is 21 miles from Wadenswyl to Einsiedeln.

RAPPERSCHWYL (19 miles), (Hotel: du Cygne). This is a picturesque town, on the borders of the lake, partially surrounded by the old walls, and containing the remains of a Castle (Der Grafenburg). In the neighbourhood, to the north-east, rises the Bachtel, a mountain 3675 ft. high. SCHMERIKON (27 miles), at the eastern end of the lake, near which, on the right, is the ancient Castle of Grynau. The next station is UZNACH (28 miles), (Hotel: Falcon). In the neighbourhood

is a large cotton-mill, turned by a mountain stream. On the left, on the height, is the monastery of Sion. Passing Uznach, we see the snow-capped mountains at the upper end of the valley of Glarus, through which the Linth flows, and presently reach WESEN situated amid delightful scenery (39 miles), (Hotel: Zum Speer),

near the lake of WALLENSTADT. The Speer may be ascended from Wesen in about 2 hours. A beautiful view presents itself from the summit. The railway traverses the southern shore of the lake, passing through nine tunnels. The lake is twelve miles long, and three and a half broad. On the north side are steep cliffs, some of them 3000 ft. high, intersected by mountain torrents. The fall of Bayerbach is seen on the opposite side of the lake, soon after leaving Wesen. After two more tunnels we reach MURG (44 miles), on the lake at the mouth of the Murg valley. The best view of the lake is had from this spot (Hotel: Schifli). At the north-eastern end of the lake are the seven peaks of the Sieben Churfirsten, and below them the station of WALLENSTADT (51 miles), (Hotel: Aigle d'Or). In the neighbourhood are rich ironstone mines. Passing through the valley of the Seez, we enter that of the Rhine, and reach SARGANS (59 miles), where we join the line from St Gall. RAGATZ (64 miles), Hotels: see "HoTEL LIST"), situated near the entrance of the valley, or ravine, through which the Tamina flows to the Rhine. This place is much frequented for its hot springs. They are used as baths for rheumatic and neuralgic pains, glandular swellings, and cutaneous eruptions. The water is conveyed to the hotels from the source in the gorge behind the town, in wooden pipes.

One of the most remarkable spots in all Switzerland is the GORGE OF PFEFFERS. It is reached by a good carriage road, 2 miles from the hotels. The hot springs rise in this gorge, and through it runs the impetuous Tamina.

The chasm is everywhere extremely narrow in relation to its height; in some places it cannot be more than 12 or 14 ft. wide. and its average width can scarcely be more than 20 or 30 ft., while its height may be 300 or 400. The walls of the chasm are scarcely ever vertical in their whole depth, but inclined one over the other, at a considerable angle. In some places the one wall overhangs the other so much that the sky above it is entirely excluded, and this for a considerable space, by the natural configuration of the parts; in others, the size of the upper fissure has been originally so small, that it has been entirely closed up by the accidental fall of rocks and rubbish from the heights above. On these accounts the whole chasm is very dark, giving one much more the feeling of being in a cave or mine, than by the natural banks of a river. The shelving direction of the walls of the chasm is sometimes the same at its bottom as at its top, so that in looking down we can only see a bare rock, the stream being hid by the overlapping of one of its rocky sides. Altogether the place is very extraordinary, and forms perhaps the most remarkable sight of its kind in Switzerland. The source of the hot springs should be visited, at the end of the chasm.

From Ragatz we cross the Rhine by a covered wooden bridge and reach MAYENFELD (68 miles), where we observe an ancient tower built by the Roman Emperor Constantius in the fourth

century. There is a beautiful view up the valley of the Rhine. To the north-east rises the peak of the Falkniss (8,422 ft.) Crossing a torrent at LANDQUART (703 miles) we see the Convent of Pfeffers, situated at a short distance above the springs. LANDQUART is a convenient starting place for DAVOS, see Route 100 below.] On the right bank of the river the barren Grauhorner are seen in the distance. Passing ZIZERS (76 miles), near which is Molinara, the country seat of the Bishops of Coire, we reach COIRE (81 miles), (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST.' This town, the capital of the Grisons, is situated in a fertile valley of the Ligne Caddee. It was called by the Romans Curia Rhetorum. The chief buildings are the Dom, or Church of St Lucius, a fine Gothic structure, containing some curious old carvings and pictures, the Episcopal Palace and the Library. The church contains amongst its relics the bones of St Lucius, an ancient British king, the reputed founder of the church of St Peter in Cornhill.

Angelica Kauffman was a native of Coire.

Diligences three times every day over the SPLUGEN PASS to Colico, on the Lake of Como, and daily over the Bernardin to Bellinzona. Fares, to Splugen, 11.85, coupe 14 francs; thence to Chiavenna, 10 frs. and 12 frs. Coire to Colico, 25.90-time, 16 hours. Carriage, 2 horses, Coire to Colico, 160 francs.

THE PASS OF THE SPLUGEN was constructed by the Austrians in order to connect Lombardy with South Germany and Switzerland.

The distance from Coire to Colico, where the steamer from Como meets the diligence, is about ninety-one miles. The Via Mala, about eleven miles from Coire, is

very commonly visited even by those who do not wish to make the journey to Como or Milan. At a short distance from Coire we cross the celebrated covered wooden bridge spanning the Rhine by a single arch of 200 feet. We soon afterwards reach the village of REICHENAU (Hotel: Adler), celebrated as the residence of Louis Philippe. In the chateau near the hotel he sought refuge in 1794. From the chateau and the adjoining garden beautiful views may be enjoyed. We cross the two branches of the Rhine and ascend the Hinter Rhine along its left bank. Numerous remains of feudal castles are seen along the route. THUSIS (18 miles), (Hotel: Via Mala), about eleven miles beyond Reich enau, is situated at the mouth of a gorge on the Heinzenberg, from which there is a delightful and extensive prospect. Crossing the impetuous torrent of the Nolla we enter the VIA MALA, one of the most stupendous gorges in Switzerland. The mountain ridge across the valley is rent from top to bottom, affording an outlet to the Rhine. The road is cut from the side of the precipice for about a mile; it then enters a tunnel bored through a spur of the mountain, 200 ft. long, 18 ft. wide, and 14 ft. high. The road on the other side is again cut from the precipice, parts of which rise perpendicularly to a fearful height above it, in some places 1600 ft., while the river rushes in a foaming torrent through the ravine below, and is crossed three times by bridges where the road would otherwise be impassable. We next reach ANDEER (27 miles), (Hotel des Bains), where we see on the left the Castle of Barenburg, celebrated in the struggles between the peasants of the Grisons and the nobility. Just beyond it the Aversa falls into the

Rhine. Crossing the last-named river we arrive at the village of SPLUGEN (38 miles). The road now divides; one goes westward by the Bernardin Pass, the other goes southward, which is the route we follow. The Splugen Pass, rising more than 2,000 feet above the village and 6,814 above the sea, leads to Chiavenna and the Lake of Como; that of Bernardin, 7,115 feet above the sea and 2,400 above Splugen, leads to Bellinzona and the Lakes of Maggiore and Lugano.

Crossing the Rhine, we follow the Splugen road for nearly five miles up a steep ascent, and reach the ridge that marks the boundary between Switzerland and Italy. We pass through a tunnel, and then by a zig-zag route, arrive at the highest point, 6,940 feet above the sea. From this point the descent immediately commences, and we presently reach the Italian Custom House, where luggage is examined. The old road was open to the greatest danger from avalanches, which were frequently the cause of great destruction of life and property. It is said that the French Marshal Macdonald, who crossed the pass in 1800, lost 100 of his men, and as many horses, by this means. Below the Custom House our road passes through three great galleries in succession, the first being upwards of 700 feet long, the second, 640, the third, 1,530. Passing Pianazzo, we cross a small stream called the Madesimo, which a few yards below falls over the precipice, in a cascade 800 feet high. We proceed, in a zig-zag course, through other galleries, and reach CHIAVENNA (73 miles), (Hotel: Conradi's). This town is pleasantly situated in the midst of vineyards. We have a fine view from the rock above the ancient Palazzo or castle. The Church of St Laurence has a tall campanile