Page images
PDF
EPUB

And thy brave and thrifty burghers boasted, in their uncouth rhyme, That their great imperial city stretched

its hand through every clime. In the courtyard of the castle, bound with many an iron band, Stands the mighty linden planted by Queen Cunigunde's hand; On the square the oriel window, where in old heroic days

Sat the poet Melchior singing Kaiser

Maximilian's praise. Everywhere I see around me rise the

wondrous world of Art: Fountains wrought with richest sculpture standing in the common mart;

And above cathedral doorways saints and bishops carved in stone, By a former age commissioned as apostles to our own.

In the church of sainted Sebald sleeps enshrined his holy dust, And in bronze the Twelve Apostles

guard from age to age their trust; In the church of sainted Lawrence

stands a pix of sculpture rare, Like the foamy sheaf of fountains, rising through the painted air. Here, when art was still religion, with a simple, reverent heart, Lived and laboured Albrecht Durer, the Evangelist of Art; Here in silence and in sorrow, toiling still with busy hand,

Like an emigrant he wander'd seeking For the Better Land.

Emigravit is the inscription on the tombstone where he lies; Dead he is not, but departed,-for the artist never dies.

Fairer seems the ancient city, and the sunshine seems more fair, That he once has trod its pavement,

that he once has breathed its air! Through these streets so broad and stately, these obscure and dismal lanes,

Walked of yore the Mastersingers, chanting rude poetic strains. From remote and sunless suburbs,

came they to the friendly guild, Building nests in Fame's great temple,

as in spouts the swallows build. As the weaver plied the shuttle, wove he too the mystic rhyme, And the smith his iron measures ham

mered to the anvil's chime;

Thanking God, whose boundless wisdom makes the flowers of poesy

bloom

In the forge's dust and cinders, in the

tissues of the loom.

Here Hans Sachs, the cobbler-poet, laureate of the gentle craft, Wisest of the Twelve Wise Masters, in huge folios sang and laugh'd. But his house is now an ale house, with a nicely sanded floor, And a garland in the window, and his face above the door.

Painted by some humble artist, as in Adam Puschman's song,

As the old man grey and dove-like, with his great beard white and long.

And at night the swart mechanic comes to drown his cark and care, Quaffing ale from pewter tankards, in the master's antique chair. Vanish'd is the ancient splendour, and before my dreamy eye Wave these mingling shapes and figures, like a faded tapestry. Not thy Councils, not thy Kaisers, win for thee the world's regard, But thy painter, Albrecht Durer, and Hans Sachs, thy cobbler-bard. Thus, O Nuremberg, a wanderer from a region far away,

As he paced thy streets and courtyards, sang in thought his careless Ĭay:

Gathering from the pavement's crevice, as a floweret of the soil, The nobility of labour,-the long pedigree of toil."

[blocks in formation]
[blocks in formation]

FRANKFORT TO MUNICH,
BY STUTTGARDT.

280 miles; 1st class (express), 39.65; 2d, 27.65.

(For that part of the journey as far as BRUCHSAL (73 miles), see Route 151.)

watering places. The beauty and healthfulness of its situation, the virtues of its five noted springs, and the exceptional comfort of its hotels and lodginghouses, have contributed to render Homburg a favourite resort for American and English visitors. Since the gambling rooms were closed by law at the end of EAVING Bruchsal we 1872, the Kursaal, the finest in presently reach BRETEurope, has passed to the authoTEN(83 miles). It is only rities of the town, and is kept distinguished as the open all the year for concerts, birthplace of Melancthon. MAULpromenades, &c. It contains BRONN (90 miles) has a handsome concert and reading rooms, the church in the Romanesque style. latter supplied with a great We pass through a tunnel leadnumber of journals, a beautiful ing from the valley of the Rhine theatre, and a restaurant. The into that of the Neckar, and orangery and ornamental grounds reach MUHLACKER (94 miles). are also the property of the town, We cross the valley of the Enz and are thrown open, as well as over a viaduct 1000 feet long. the Kursaal, to the public. After passing Bletigheim, we pass, on the right, the Castle of Hohenasperg, now a prison. LUDWIGSBURG (113 miles), (Hotel: Bar), the great military depot of Wurtemburg, and contains arsenal, gun - foundry, barracks, &c., situated a short distance from the west bank of the Neckar; the kings of Wurtemburg formerly made it their residence. The Palace contains a picture gallery. The Gardens are extensive, but not well kept up. In the neighbourhood are two royal

The neighbourhood abounds in pleasant excursions, among which are those to the Roman remains, a wall and fosse, called Saalburg, supposed to date from 9 B.C., to Nauheim, remarkable for its salt and iron springs, and many others. A beautiful English church was completed several years since, and regular services continue throughout the year. The old Schloss, the former residence of the Landgraves, now one of the imperial residences of

residences: Monrepos and La Favorite.

STUTTGARDT (122 miles). (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST").

Cabs: one or two persons, quarter of an hour, 50 pf.; three or four persons, 70 pf.; one hour, 1.80 and 2.10.

ENGLISH CHURCH, in the Olgastrasse services all the year.

This town is beautifully situated in the Nesenbach valley, the hills forming a semicircle of eminences clothed with vineyards, orchards, and gardens. Except the very oldest part of the city, the streets are broad and the buildings handsome. The Schloss or Palace is a fine modern building, and contains numerous frescoes and other works of art. The Royal Park and gardens attached to the palace have an area of 560 acres, are adorned by fine groups of trees, and intersected by shady avenues. In the neighbourhood of the palace are the Konigsbau, with Ionic colonnade, containing the Exchange, and an arcade with shops on the groundfloor, and concert-rooms on the second floor. Stuttgardt has also a spacious opera - house, royal theatre, museum, a polytechnic school, an academy of fine arts. The cathedral, built in the fifteenth century, contains several monuments, four handsome painted windows, and an excellent organ. The King's stables contain one of the best studs of horses in Europe.

In the immediate vicinity are alleys, parks and gardens, and at a short distance from the city are various places of holiday resort, including Rosenstein, the beautiful summer residence of the King, and near by the chateau of Wilhelma, built in the Moorish style; Cannstatt, celebrated for its mineral springs; the Moorish baths, &c. Stuttgardt holds a high position in the book-trade,

and has numerous bookselling establishments. Hegel was born here. The place is of ancient date, and owes its name to a castle which existed before 1080. In 1119 it obtained corporate rights from Rudolf, Margrave of Baden, and in 1320 became the residence of the counts of Wurtemburg. It was much extended and improved about 1449, and has since, with only a short interval, been the capital. Leaving Stuttgardt, we proceed for some distance parallel to the Heilbronn line. Skirting the palace gardens, we cross the Neckar, and reach CANNSTATT (123 miles). (Hotels: Hermann, Wilhelmsbad). It is pleasantly situated on the banks of the Neckar, and is celebrated for its mineral springs and baths. Several Roman remains have been found here, and removed to the museum at Stuttgardt. [Tramways to Stuttgardt in 8 minutes.] Leaving Cannstatt we proceed along the right bank of the Neckar, through a district rich in vineyards, orchards, and corn-fields. On the left we see the Rothenberg, surmounted by a Greek chapel, built by the late king as a mortuary chapel for his second wife. It contains statues by Dannecker and Thorwaldsen, and was erected on the site of the ancient castle of the princes of Wurtemburg. We next reach Unterturkheim, in the neighbourhood of which a good wine is grown. ESSLINGEN (131 miles) (Hotel: Krone) is a manufacturing town surrounded by walls. Its chief manufactures are woollen and cotton goods, hardware, and a wine resembling champagne. The Liebfrauenkirche is a beautiful Gothic building, the portals ornamented with reliefs; the tower, together with its octagonal spire of the fifteenth century, measures 230 ft. in height. The Stadtkirche is a Romanesque

structure, dating from the thir. teenth and fifteenth centuries. It has a rood-screen, painted windows, and a pix of the fifteenth century. The gate named Wolfsthor bears the lion crest of the Imperial family of Hohenstaufen. The view from the Castle of Berfried, above the town, is very good. Plochingen (138 miles), near the confluence of the Fils and Neckar, the latter being crossed by an old wooden bridge. (A branch line goes to Tubingen and SCHAFFHAUSEN).

GOPPINGEN (151 miles) is on the Fils. It is a well-built modern town, re-erected after a fire in 1782. There was formerly here a ducal castle, erected with the stones of the ancient Castle of Hohenstaufenburg, which formerly stood on the height of that name near by. We proceed along the valley of the Fils, passing some feudal castles standing here and there on the hills above. Geislingen (161 miles) is situated at the foot of a range of hills called the Rauhe Alp. Above it is the Castle of Helfenstein in ruins. The country in this vicinity is very beautiful. We presently enter the valley of the Danube, and reach

ULM (181 miles), (Hotel: Russischer Hof.) It is a strong fortress, situated on the left bank of the Danube, and connected by two bridges with the New Town, on the Bavarian side of the river. Its linen manufactures have greatly fallen off, and its principal trade is in corn. Great quantities of snails are exported to Austria and other Roman Catholic countries, where they are eaten on Fast-days and during Lent.

The fine Gothic Cathedral was built in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, at the sole expense of the townspeople. The unfinished tower is 318 ft. high.

It was originally intended to have carried it up to 490 ft. There is a magnificent view from the summit. The principal portal, beneath the tower, is 45 ft. in height, and 6 ft. deep, and is finely sculptured. The length of the building 455 ft. externally, and 391 ft. inside. The nave, 146 ft. high, is supported by twelve columns. Many of the windows in the choir are of finely stained glass. There is a handsome altar-piece, curiously carved oaken stalls, a richly sculptured tabernacle, some fine brasses, a handsome pulpit and font, and an excellent organ, the largest in Germany. The Rathhaus is of the fourteenth century. Before it stands a handsome Gothic fountain. Covered passages lead from the Rathhaus to the Veste, a series of subterranean passages and dungeons. Another curious building is the Deutches Haus, built in the thirteenth century, and restored in 1726. Leaving Ulm we cross the Danube to New Ulm, and emerging from the station there, see, on the left, the citadel and towers of Wilhelmsburg and Veste, and the village of Elchingen, which gave the title of Duke to Marshal Ney as a reward for an advantage gained by him here over the Austrians in 1805.

GUNZBURG (195 miles), the Guntia of the Romans, is situated at the confluence of the Günz and Danube. Passing some places of no particular note we reach AUGSBURG (235 miles), (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST.") This was once one of the most important towns in Europe. It was a considerable town in the time of the Romans, and is known in history as the place where many Diets of the Empire have been held. From its situation it once commanded a good deal of the transit trade of Europe.

Many of the houses are quaint, and display signs of former magnificence. In the Maximiliansstrasse, the principal street, are three bronze fountains: one, called Herculesbrunnen, represents Hercules slaying the hydra; at the base are three Naiads bathing. Another, near the Church of St Maurice, has a figure of Mercury; and the third, near the Rathhaus, is called Augustusbrunnen, and is adorned with a figure of that Emperor.

The Rathhaus is an Italian structure of the seventeenth century. On the second story is the Golden Hall, a spacious apartment adorned with frescoes richly gilt. Four chambers, called the Princes' Chambers, open into it. They contain curious stoves of pottery, and finely panelled walls and ceilings. To the north of the Rathhaus is the Tower of Perlasch, a tall belfry. The Cathedral possesses few attractive features. The north and south portals are finely sculptured; in the latter are curious brazen doors, with bas-reliefs of scriptural and other subjects.

The Residenz or Schloss was formerly the Palace of the Bishops, Here the Protestant manifesto called the "Confession of Augsburg" was presented to the Emperor Charles V. in 1530. The Church of St Ulric and St Afra, also in the Maximiliansstrasse, contains the tombs of those saints. Maximilian laid the first stone of the choir in 1500. The nave was commenced in 1467. The adjoining convent is now used as a barrack.

The Church of St Anna contains some good pictures: over the baptismal altar, "Christ blessing the Little Children," by L. Cranach; portraits of Luther, and the Elector, John Frederick of Saxony, by the same artist;

a portrait attributed to Van Dyck, &c.

The Picture Gallery is in a building which was formerly the Convent of St Catherine. It is open from ten to two o'clock on week-days, and from ten to twelve on Sundays. Some good paintings are to be seen here.

The Museum of Antiquities is worth a visit.

The Allgemeine Zeitung, one of the oldest and best newspapers in Germany, is printed at Augsburg. (From this place branch lines go to Nuremberg and Lindau).

On leaving Augsburg we cross the Lech, and proceed through the district called Lechfeld, where the Hungarians defeated the Germans in the 10th century, and were in turn vanquished and driven out of the country. At PASING there is a branch to Starnberg. We cross the Wurm, and traverse an uninteresting country, obtaining occasional views of the Tyrolese mountains on the south. Shortly before our arrival at Munich we pass, on the left, the Palace of Nymphenburg, with its park and pre

[blocks in formation]
« PreviousContinue »