From Castellamare, by beautiful road along the bay, Sorrento is reached in an hour. Carriage with two horses, 5 francs and gratuity to driver. SORRENTO (Hotels: see HoTEL LIST"). This town is a favourite summer residence on account of its agreeable temperature and delightful environs. It was the birthplace of Tasso.

CAPRI is conveniently reached from Sorrento by boat. A fouroared boat, crossing in about 2 hours, costs 10 francs, besides gratuities to rowers.

a

In the travelling season, steamer leaves Naples every morning for Capri and the Blue Grotto, by way of Sorrento. An opportunity is given to visit Capri on the return trip. The steamer touches at Sorrento also on the return trip.

Capri is a small mountainous island, oblong in form, rising, at its highest point, 1,800 ft. above the sea. It has 5,000 inhabitants. Augustus built palaces on the island, and subsequently Tiberius built 12 villas in honour of the 12 gods, of some of which a few traces still remain. Donkeys, to visit the island, 3 francs per day.

The BLUE GROTTO may be visited by boat in two hours from the landing. The entrance is not above 3 feet in height, and passengers are compelled to stoop or lie down in the boat. In the interior the roof is 40 feet above the water. The length of the grotto is 165 feet; its greatest width 100 feet. The effect of the blue refraction of the light on every

object is very fine, and, at first, dazzling to the sight. The boatmen who, for a small fee, swim about the boats, assume a silvery hue. The best hour for visiting the grotto is from 10 to 1.

SALERNO AND PESTUM.

(This interesting excursion may be made with perfect safety, as no brigands have been seen in that region for years, and the road is constantly patrolled by the garrison of Salerno. Persons pressed for time may visit Pastum in a single day from Naples, by leaving the latter place in the first train in the morning, and getting out at Battapaglia, a station on the railway to Eboli, only 12 miles from the Temples. As there are no carriages to be had at Battapaglia it would be necessary to send a commissioner from Naples to Salerno the night before, to engage a carriage and bring it to Battapaglia to meet the train. It requires but 4 hours to go from B. to the Temples, see them well, and return to B. The last train to Naples leaves Battapaglia at about 4 p.m.)

Five trains daily from Naples to Salerno. Fares: 4.70 francs, 3.50 francs, and 1.75 francs. The route passes Pompeii, Pagani, Nocera, LA CAVA (a favourite summer resort; Hotel: de Londres), Vietri (a beautifully situated town, with charming villas).

From Salerno (Hotels: Vittoria, d'Angleterre) to Pæstum, a three-horse carriage costs 30 francs. The distance is 24 miles. The traveller who spends the night at Salerno may, by leaving at six or seven in the morning, visit Pæstum and return in time for the last train to Naples.

PESTUM, a colony of Sybaris, founded B.C. 600, was called be

fore the Roman times, Poseidonia. Attention was called to its ruins in 1745. Besides some remains of the walls and an amphitheatre, they consist of three Doric temples, which have remained standing for 2,000 years in this now wild and solitary place. The most remarkable is the TEMPLE OF NEPTUNE or Poseidonium. This temple, which, after those of Athens, is considered the finest example of genius manifested by the Greeks in architecture, forms from east to west a parallelogram of 199 feet by 83 feet, including the steps. It has six columns on each front and fourteen on the sides, counting those of the angles. These columns, of the Doric order, elevated upon three steps, surround the temple in one continuous portico. They are 6 feet 9 inches in diameter at their lower part, and 14 feet 8 inches high, by which an effect of greater massiveness than that of the Parthenon, and of the temple of Theseus at Athens, is produced. They have no base, are fluted and conical, the upper diameter being one-third less than the lower; an excessive diminution, as the difference in the temples at Athens is but twoninths. They are formed of five or six cylinders of variable heights, and are perfectly jointed. The other two temples are: the one improperly named the Basilica, and a small temple of Ceres.

Tourists visiting Salerno and Pæstum, should, if possible, make the trip from Salerno, by Vietri, to Amalfi along the new road which follows the windings of the shore. The distance is 14 miles, and the drive one of the very finest in Europe, resembling the best parts of the famous Cornice Road. Carriage with three horses, 15 francs. AMALFI (Hotel: Cappucini, excellent) is a picturesque village, but without special attraction

beyond its beautiful views over the Bay of Salerno.

From Amalfi many tourists proceed by row boat to Capri and Sorrento, by the Islands of the Syrens and Capo di Sorrento, an interesting excursion occupying from 5 to 6 hours. Boat with six rowers costs 35 francs.

ROUTE 183.

NAPLES TO MESSINA.

Steamers leave four times a week. Fare, 1st class, 38.50 francs; 2d, 22.50 francs. (Distance, 208 miles.)

(The steamers from Naples to Messina meet at the latter place the steamers which leave there for Catania, Syracuse, and Malta. Most tourists, however, bound to Malta, prefer taking the railway at Messina and meeting the steamer at Syracuse. The steamers leave Syracuse for Malta every Monday and Thursday evening on the arrival of the last train from Messina.)

M

ESSINA (Hotel: Trinacria) is situated at the north-eastern extremity of the island of Sicily, on the western shore of the straits of the same name, opposite to Reggio, on the Calabrian coast. It is built partly along the declivity of well-wooded hills which rise from the coast, and partly round a magnificent harbour. It was formerly called Zancle, from the Greek word signifying a sickle, on account of its shape. Subsequently it was colonized from Messene in Greece,

and was thereafter called Messina.

The background is closed by the fine chain of the Neptunian hills, rising to a height of 1,800 feet above the sea. The town is well built, and paved with lava. It has three principal streets, one of which extends for more than a mile along the harbour. The latter, from its depth and circuit, is capable of accommodating many hundreds of vessels of the largest size. There are upwards of fifty churches, many of them adorned with paintings and sculptures. The Cathedral, a fine Gothic building, is beautifully decorated internally. The nave rests on granite columns from an ancient temple of Neptune. The high altar is inlaid with elegant mosaic-work of jasper, lapis-lazuli, and other beautiful stones, and finished with gilt bronze. Among other public buildings are the royal palace, the senatehouse, public hospital, and several convents. In the square in which the cathedral stands is a bronze equestrian statue of Charles III. of Spain. The view from the heights above the town over the straits and the opposite coast of Calabria is exceedingly fine. The town is surrounded by walls with two forts, and the harbour is commanded by the citadel, near which is the lazaretto. The staple manufacture is of silk. The neighbourhood produces wines and fruit in abundance. The coral fishery also furnishes employment for numbers.

From Messina a railway is open to Syracuse via TAORMINA (30 miles), with very interesting remains of a GREEK THEATRE and TEMPLE on an Acropolis, and CATANIA (59 miles), Hotel: see "HOTEL LIST.") This ancient town was colonized by Augustus. It contains the vestiges of an

Amphitheatre, Theatre, Baths, and Tombs.

The ascent of MOUNT ETNA, which rises nearly 11,000 feet above the sea, is made from Catania. On the east side of the mountain is an extensive valley called the Val del Bove, surrounded on three sides by abrupt precipices rising from 1000 to 3000 feet. Above it is a plain called Piano del Lago, on which are two buildings, one called the Casa Inglese (English Lodge), built by the subscriptions of English tourists; another called Torre del Filisofo (the Philosopher's Tower), said to have been the residence of Empedocles, who threw himself into the crater. Above this plain rises the great cone of the crater. The ascent can be made in about ten hours. The journey is usually commenced at night, in order to enjoy the magnificent view, which extends to Malta, and to the island of Pantalaria in the direction of Africa-the former being 130, the latter 180 miles distant.

The ascent is made in the summer months. The manager of the Grand Hotel at Catania undertakes all the details of guides, provisions, &c., &c., for the ascent.

From Catania to SYRACUSE (54 miles), (Hotels: Del Sole, Vittoria) (both bad.)

The sights of old Syracuse are the Roman Amphitheatre, the Greek Theatre, the ancient baths and tombs, the latomic or quarries, once used as prisons, the famous Ear of Dyonisius, an enormous cavern in the rock, also used as a prison in ancient times. It has a wonderful echo. modern city are the Cathedral, built upon the ruins of a temple, and the famous Fountain of Arethusa, growing in which may be seen the papyrus plant. Not far from the ruins of the Greek

In the

Theatre are extensive and interesting catacombs.

The sights of Syracuse may be seen, in a cursory manner, of course, in three or four hours, if a good guide is employed and the tour is made with a carriage.

From Syracuse to Malta (68 miles.) Fare by steamer 30 frs.

The chief town of the Island of Malta is VALETTA (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST.")

The view of the city on approaching it from the sea is magnificent. On arriving one struck by the extent and strength of the fortifications. The unevenness of the site of the town makes it necessary to keep up communication between many of the streets by flights of steps, forming one of the principal features of the place. The principal streets are wide and well paved, and the buildings handsome. One of the principal sights of the city is the CATHEDRAL, built in 1580. It contains many tombs of the Knights of Malta, and a few fine pictures.

The

Palace of the Grand Master, now the residence of the Governor, is a spacious edifice, containing some fine apartments, an armoury, &c. The new opera is one of the handsomest in Europe. Malta has a mild winter climate, and is much resorted to by visitors from northern countries. Living is good and cheap.

Excursions may be made to CITTA VECCIA, the former capital of the island, where is shown a cave said to have been inhabited by St Paul after his shipwreck. There are interesting catacombs in the vicinity. Seven miles from Citta Veccia is St Paul's Bay, on the shore of which tradition has it that St Paul suffered shipwreck. Both the places above named may be visited in five or six hours from Valetta.

ROUTE 184.

NAPLES TO PALERMO.

The distance is 193 miles; the

fares are the same as to Messina. Steamers leave five times a week.

PALERMO is (Hotels: see "HOTEL LIST") situated on the north coast of Sicily. As we approach, the gulf and town present a most delightful prospect. The latter is partially encircled by groves of orange and citron trees, behind which rises a range of magnificent hills. Its shape is an oblong square, of which one of the small sides abuts on the coast. Its circumference is about fourteen miles, and its principal streets are terminated by fifteen gates. Two large and regular streets, intersecting at right angles, form an octagonal space, called the Piazza Vigliena, or Quattro Cantoni, adorned with handsome buildings, porticoes, fountains, and statues, among which last are those of Charles V., Philip II., III., and IV. of Spain. By the sea-side runs the beautiful promenade called Marina, ending at a public garden called the Garden of Flora.

The Cathedral, erected in 1170, is externally in the Norman style, with Moorish decorations; the western façade is a beautiful specimen of the pointed style of Sicilian architecture; a lofty arcade, with pointed arches, joins

the belfry to the Cathedral. The interior contains several monuments, paintings, sculptures, and frescoes.

The Palazzo Reale contains the Palatine Chapel, an interesting specimen of art of the 12th century. There are some good collections in the palace of the Prince of Trabia, and in the University. About 3 miles from Palermo is Monreale, a town of 15,000 inhabitants. The Cathedral, surpassing in size that of St Mark at Venice, is ornamented with quaint

mosaics.

From Palermo an excursion may be made by rail to

Termini (23 miles), (Hotel: San Domenico.) Here are to be seen numerous ancient ruins; the churches and convents are rich in mosaics and ancient columns. A beautiful view is obtained from the platform behind the Cathedral.

THE LAKE OF ORTA AND

MONTE MOTTERONE.

STRESA is the starting point for an interesting excursion of two or three days to the LAKE OF ORTA, going by way of the summit of Monte Motterone, reaching the lake at the village of Orta, and returning by way of Arona. Time from Stresa by the Motterone to Orta, 9 hours. A guide to the summit of Motterone costs 6 francs. A donkey and attendant to Orta, 12 francs. The path from Stresa ascends near the HOTEL DES ILES BORROMEES through a chesnut grove, thence passes the village of Someraro, and passing several chalets, reaches a church, from which the summit is one hour distant. The panorama, viewed from the summit, embraces the whole amphitheatre of mountains from Monte

Rosa to the Tyrol, six lakes-the Lake of Orta, Lago Maggiore, Lago-di-Monate, Lago-di-Comabbio, Lago-di-Biandrone, and the Lago-di-Varese and the plains of Lombardy and Piedmont. It is said that the cathedral of Milan is sometimes seen from the summit in fine weather. Descending from the mountain towards Orta, we soon come upon a wide path, which leads in two hours to the village of Armeno, on the high road. Two miles farther on along the road is Miasino, and 2 miles beyond, we reach ORTA (Hotel: S. Giulio), a small town upon a promontory which extends into the lake. The lake of Orta is 9 miles long, and 14 wide. the lake opposite Őrta is the little island of S. Giulio, with a church originally founded by St Julius in 379. Above Orta is a wooded height laid out as a park, called the MONTE SACRO. On it there are twenty chapels, erected in the 16th century in honour of St Francis of Assisi, each of which contains a scene from the life of the saint. The figures, which are composed of terracotta, are coloured. The tower on the summit affords a splendid view. (Orta may be reached by carriage from Pallanza and from Arona).

In

Opposite Orta, on the west bank of the lake, is Pella (Hotel: Club Alpino), from which a bridle path goes over the Colma to Varallo, five hours. Mule, 7 francs. From the Col-di-Colma, 2 hours from Pella, there is a magnificent view. Varallo (Hotel: Italia) is close by the famous MONTE SACRO, which is reached in a quarter of an hour from the town by a shady path. Besides a church, there are upon the mountain 46 CHAPELS, all of which contain groups of lifesized figures in terra-cotta, representing scenes in the life of