bloody massacre by Murat, on March, 1808. Being received with shouts of anger, he seized upon some hundreds of the populace, of all ages and conditions, had them tried by court-martial, and executed on this spot.

The ROYAL PALACE is a magnificent structure; it is a large square edifice, each front extending 470 ft., and is 100 ft. high. It commands a fine prospect. The Duke of Wellington resided in this palace after the battle of Salamanca. The interior is splendid. The grand staircase, the Hall of the Ambassadors, and the numerous saloons are all worthy of this most beautiful of royal palaces, and perfectly justify the remark which Napoleon I. made to his brother Joseph, when ascending the staircase:"Mon frere vous seriez mieux logé que moi." The saloon called the Hall of the Ambassadors is magnificently decorated; the ceiling is one of the chef-d'œuvres of the Venetian Tiepolo. The ceilings of the dining-hall and the audience chamber are much admired. They are both by Mengs, The Sala del Trono contains a choice collection of coins and medals. The Gabinete contains some fine specimens of china. There are several fine pictures of the Italian school, and also some by native masters, in the various saloons. On the south side of the palace is the ROYAL ARMOURY, whichcontains thefinest collection of historical armour in the world. This gallery has a very imposing appearance; the equestrian figures are placed in the centre, and knights in armour stand at the sides, surrounded by warlike implements of every description. Overhead are hung various banners. On the walls are some splendid shields. Admission to the palace by permit from the Intendente de la Casa Real.

EL MUSEO is a splendid gallery,

The

containing 2000 pictures, of which 46 are by Murillo, 10 by Raphael, 62 by Rubens, 64 by Velasquez, 34 by Tintoretto, and 43 by Titian. (Strangers are admitted every day). This vast and precious collection was first formed in 1828, and is universally admitted to comprise the richest collection of works of art in the world. In order to form this museum, all the royal residences have been deprived of their best works, both in painting and sculpture. monasteries contained a considerable number of works of the first order; that of L'Escorial, above all, containing the best works of Leonardo da Vinci, Correggio, Titian, Raphael, and some admirable paintings of the Flemish School. When the convents were suppressed, and the monastic orders dispersed, all these works were carried off to enrich the Royal Museum at Madrid. At the entrance are three galleries. The two on the right and left are devoted to the works of the Spanish painters; the middle gallery contains all the works of the Italian school. At the extremity of the long gallery there is a circular saloon, in which are deposited the few works of the German and French schools that this museum contains; on either side of which are two other galleries appropriated to the paintings of the Dutch and Flemish Schools. A large staircase leads to galleries on the ground floor, in which are a great many works belonging to all the schools, and which were for the most part taken from the Escurial. The paintings of Velasquez will be found particularly worth notice. Here is the famous picture of "The Drunkards" (Los Bebedores), by that master. This prince of Spanish painters is here seen in all the splendour of his genius, and the whole of his works will

repay a careful study. The museum is enriched by many famous productions of Murillo, the pupil of Velasquez. The Italian school is well represented by some of the chief works of the most celebrated masters, including Leonardo da Vinci, Andrea del Sarto, Correggio, and Raphael. Here are three fine productions of the latter master, in which the subject of the "Holy Family," is treated in different ways, and is distinguished in each by a particular name. Thus, one is called "La Perla," which once belonged to Charles I. of England. Another picture has been called the "Virgin of the Ruins," from the character of the composition; and a third is known as the "Virgin of the Fish." The museum may boast of the richest collection of the works of Titian in the world. There are also several masterpieces by Tintoretto, Paul Veronese, Sebastiano del Piombo, Guido, Guercino, and Lanfranc.

The German and French schools are rather scantily represented, and the paintings mixed together in the circular saloon at the end of the long gallery. The principal work of Albert Dürer is a small "Crucifixion," brought from the Escurial. Of the works of Nicolas Poussin the museum contains twelve, principally landscapes and historical pieces. There are nine chefs-d'œuvre of Claude. There are several works of the great Flemish painter, Rubens, the most celebrated of which is "The Virgin and Saints."

There are several portraits by Van Dyck, also some of his finest historical pieces; several specimens of the works of Rembrandt and Jordaens; and a very numerous collection of those of the two Teniers (father and son). gallery of antique sculpture occupies the greater part of the

The

ground-floor of this museum, but is not very remarkable either in value or extent.

The MUSEO NATIONAL, situated in the Calle de Atocha, contains about 900 pictures. This building (the ancient convent of the Trinity) is used for the offices of the Minister of Public Works; and those who wish to visit the "National Museum," must wait till after office hours.

The other picture galleries are at the ACADEMY OF SAN FERNANDO (about 300 pictures); at the PALACE OF THE INFANTE DON SEBASTIAN (admission by card, to be obtained of the Encargado), containing about 600 pictures; also the galleries of the Duke of Medina-Čeli, the Duke of Alba, the Marquis of Javal-Quinto, and, above all, the gallery of historical portraits belonging to Senor Valentin Cardera, admission to any of which may be obtained by cards, as above mentioned. The ROYAL SCOTTISH ACADEMY, contains a museum of Natural History, and some fine pictures. The two largest libraries are the ROYAL LIBRARY and the LIBRARY OF SAN ISIDRO. There are six theatres, three circuses, and several scientific and literary institutions. Madrid offers but little attraction to the antiquary in her churches, bearing in this respect a most unfavourable contrast to other cities of Spain.

The chapel of Notre Dame d'Atocha, at the end of the promenade of Atocha, contains the ancient and celebrated image of the Virgin, which has been an object of traditional veneration for many ages past, especially by the royal families of Spain, the members of which were in the habit of worshipping here every Saturday.

Isabella II. was married here, and, according to usual custom, presented her wedding dress to

the image. Both marriages of the young King Alfonso took place here. At the Revolution of 1868 the treasure belonging to this image was seized by the government, and has been valued

at £100,000. Many fabulous

stories are told about the miracles performed by this statue.

The PLAZA DE TOROS is situated at a short distance outside the superb gate at the end of the Calle de Alcala. It is an amphitheatre, calculated to accommodate 12,000 spectators. The central space is enclosed by a strong wooden barrier, about 5 ft. high, narrow ledges, about 8 in. from the ground, being attached to it on either side, so as to

from the capital. It is situated in a sheltered recess of the mountains, in the midst of pine forests, and at a height of 4000 ft. above the sea, forming a delightful summer retreat from the intense heat of the capital.

ROUTE 186.

BAYONNE TO MADRID, BY

PAMPELUNA AND SARA-
GOSSA.

ing over it when making their escape. Outside this barrier is a second and higher one, leaving a passage between them, about 5 ft. wide.

In the elevated region known as the Sierra de Guadarama are situated two of the most famous among the royal residences of Spain-the palace of the EscuRIAL, and that of La Granja, or San Ildefonso, both within the limits of Old Castile. The former, which is 27 miles north-west of Madrid (reached by railway in 1 hour and 20 minutes), lies at the southern foot of the mountains. The Escurial contains the splendid mausoleums of many of the sovereigns of Spain, together with a fine collection of pictures, a library of 100,000 volumes (rich in Arabic literature), and a college. The ground-plan of the Escurial bears some resemblance to the shape of a gridiron-the implement of torture upon which St Lawrence, to whom it is dedicated, is said to have suffered martyrdom.

The palace of La Granja is upon the northern face of the Sierra, and is 40 miles distant

second, 226r. 75c.

HE journey as far as Alsuasa (63 miles) is by the last Route 185. PAMPELUNA(96 miles) (Hotels: del Infante, del Florentino).

Residence of the CaptainGeneral of Navare, and seat of a Bishop suffragan of Burgos. This is one of the ancient Roman cities of Spain. It is built on an eminence, commanding fine views of the country around. The walls by which it is surrounded, and which have been subject to many sieges, are in a very incomplete state, but the fortress, which fronts the river, is in tolerably good condition.

The Cathedral is one of the finest in Spain. It is in the Gothic style, and the exterior especially presents a very grand appearance. The only circumstance that mars its general magnificence, is that the western facade, dating from the end of the last century, is a strange contrast with the rich Gothic style of the remainder of the cathedral. plan is that of a Latin cross, and it is composed of five naves. In

Its

the centre is the choir. The grille of the choir is particularly worth notice, as a chef-d'œuvre. At the entrance are the tombs of Charles III. of Navarre, and his wife Leonora of Castile. The two alabaster statues are in a recumbent position, dressed in the royal robes, and crowned. The wainscoting of the choir is a superb specimen of carving in English oak,representing saints, prophets, and patriarchs.

The Hotel de Ville is a fine structure, with a curious mosaic pavement, and some good paintings and portraits of the kings of Navarre.

A splendid aqueduct of entirely modern construction, but in the Roman style, conveys water from the hills of Francoa, nine miles distant, to the city.

Pampeluna was taken in 778, by Charlemagne. It was after wards the capital of the kingdom of Navarre. In 1808 it was taken possession of by the French, and retained by them till 1814. It was the last refuge of the king Joseph, during his retreat; and after a four months' blockade, the French were forced to capitulate. They retook it during the campaign of 1823.

Tafalla (123 miles). Population, 5250. This was formerly one of the most important cities of Navarre, and the ancient residence of its kings. The ruins of their palace are to be seen, surrounded by large gardens. The church contains some fine sculptures. The Hotel de Ville is a building of modern construction.

The railroad here crosses the plain, where the traveller sees the Spanish vines and olives, and by a delightful valley leads to the station of

Olite (128 miles), population, 2150, in a fertile plain, near the stream of Cidacos. This place formerly shared with Tafalla the

favour of a royal residence. The Palace is now in ruins. Of the two churches, San Pedro and Santa Maria, the latter is the most remarkable, containing a portico with statues of the twelve apostles, and also a fine baptismal font.

Castejon (181 miles). Here the line for Logrono, Miranda, and Bilbao turns of.

Tudela (191 miles). Population, 9150. This town is situated in a well-watered plain, surrounded by mountains. The streets are narrow, and have a wretched appearance, but the promenades are delightful. There is a summer promenade, and also one for the winter. The Plaza de Torros is an extensive open space behind the station.

Here is a fine Cathedral, in the Gothic style. Its west front, with its superb doorway and rose window, also the high altar, and a fine black marble monument in one of the side chapels, are especially worth notice. The carvings and tracery throughout are very fine.

LAS CASETAS (230 miles). At this station the line joins that between Madrid and Saragossa. There is a change of train for travellers from Pampeluna to Madrid.

SARAGOSSA (238 miles), (Hotels: de Europa, Las Cuatro Naciones, del Universo), population, 64,500. This ancient capital of the Kings of Aragon, situated on the Ebro, is one of the most important cities in Spain. There are an academy of fine arts, university, and numerous manufactories. It is the residence of the Captain-general of Aragon, the seat of an archbishop. The greater part of the streets are narrow and irregular.

Saragossa has several churches and colleges. The Cathedral of La Seo is situated in a square,

which also contains the archiepiscopal palace. Its front is without ornament, but the modern portal is decorated with Corinthian columns, and three statues, representing our Saviour, St Peter, and St Paul. A lofty tower, which serves as a belfry, has a large number of allegorical statues. The interior is capacious, but short in comparison with its width. Here is a splendid tomb, containing the ashes of one of the first Inquisitors.

The Cathedral el Pilar (so called from the pillar on which the Virgin descended from heaven) may be termed the great lion of the place. It contains the celebrated sanctuary, with the highly venerated statue of the Virgin, on a jasper pedestal, said to have been placed there by St James. Pilgrims from all parts of Spain come to worship at this shrine.

There are also the churches of San Felipe, with a beautiful portico; San Pedro, with its Moorish tower; and that of Las Santas Masas, a subterranean church, where are the tombs of the first Christian martyrs of Saragossa.

The most curious of all the monuments of this interesting city, is the leaning tower, called the Torre Neuva. It stands quite by itself. Although bearing the name of the New Tower, it was erected as far back as 1503-4. It is built entirely of brick, and is 9 feet out of the perpendicular. There are some charming promenades. The siege of Saragossa, in 1808, gave occasion for the brave exploits of the celebrated "Maid of Saragossa." The ancient city was built by the Emperor Augustus, and named after himself, Cesarea Augusta, which has been corrupted into Cesaragosta, and ultimately Saragossa. The canal, and the crossing of two main lines of railway, have given

to this city an increased activity and importance in modern times. Returning to Las Casetas Junction, we proceed to Calatayud (279 miles), population, 11,100. This ancient Moorish town has a fine Castle and a Dominican Convent, of imposing appearance. The church of Santa Maria has a beautiful portal in the cinquecento style. Here are also a Theatre, a Plaza de Toros, and some beautiful promenades.

At Alhama (316 miles), (Hotel: El Establecimiento), are some mineral springs of great repute in cases of gout, rheumatism, &c. Medinaceli (350 miles), is picturesquely placed at the foot of a steep hill. It gives the title of duke to the family of La Cerda, who, according to lineal descent, are the rightful heirs to the throne of Spain. Siguenza (3663 miles), population, 4500, is situated in a fertile, but ill-cultivated district. The Gothic Cathedral, restored in the twelfth century, and of unknown antiquity, is beautifully adorned with bas-reliefs and sculptures.

Passing some unimportant places, we reach GUADALAJARA (425 miles), (Hotel: de la Diligencia), population, 6450. The most remarkable building is the Palace of the Dukes de l'Infantado, presenting a strange mixture of Gothic and Moorish styles. This large palace is in a deplorable state of dilapidation. The convent of San Francisco contains some rich specimens of sculptured monuments. The church of San Nicolas, which overlooks the city, those of San Gines, San Miguel, and San Esteban, the Panteon and the Plaza de Santa Maria, deserve a visit. We presently reach

ALCALA DE HENARES (433 miles), population 8850. This city was formerly of great importance, but it now presents a sad and impoverished appear