ance. It is surrounded by walls in ruins. The ancient University is now a college, its Chapel contains the magnificent marble monument of Cardinal Ximenes. It is surrounded by a splendid grille. The Episcopal Palace is deserving of notice. Alcala was the birthplace of Cervantes, who was baptized in the church of Santa Maria Mayor. It was in this city, formerly possessing celebrated printing presses, that Cardinal Ximenes had the celebrated Polyglot Bible printed.

VICALVARO (438 miles). It was in the plain of Vicalvaro, in the month of July 1854, that Marshal O'Donnell put himself at the head of several regiments, and attacked the royal troops, who were powerless to subdue this revolt. Espartero joined O'Donnell, the ministry of San Luis was overthrown, and the leader of the rebellion became Prime Minister.

Passing some unimportant places, we reach MADRID. See preceding route.

ROUTE 187.

MADRID TO TOLEDO.

561 miles; first class, 45.50 reals; second, 34.88 reals.

EAVING Madrid, we reach Getafe (9 miles). The Church contains some good paintings and a handsome retable. At Pinto (13 miles) are the ruins of a castle in which Philip II. imprisoned the Princess of Eboli. At Valdemoro (17 miles) is the training college for candidates for the Guardias Civil. There are some saline

springs in the neighbourhood of Ciempozuelos (20 miles). ARANJUEZ (30 miles) (Hotels: del Norte, del Infante), population 4000. This place, formerly a royal summer residence, is situated near the confluence of the Tagus and Jarama. The palace contains nothing worthy of particular mention. Here are some fine elms imported from England by Philip II. The girth of one of them is upwards of 90 feet. The Casa del Labrador (labourer's cottage), is beautifully furnished with tapestry, &c. It was built by Charles IV. Some parts of the interior are beautifully painted. The principal saloon is also elaborately painted. At Castillejo (40 miles) the line for Toledo leaves the main line for Alicante and Valencia.

TOLEDO 56 miles, (Hotels: del Lino, de Huespedes), popula tion, 18,000. Of all excursions in the environs of Madrid, that to Toledo will be found the most interesting.

This city has an important place in the pages of history. Under the Goths it was the capital of Spain, and the seat of 17 councils; under the Moors it was the seat of a small kingdom; it was conquered by Alphonso VI., King of Castille and Leon, and became the capital of Castille, and afterwards of all Spain. When in the height of its splendour, the city contained 200,000 inhabitants.

It is the most curious of all the cities of old Spain.

Toledo is the seat of an archbishop, and the chief town of a province. It is built on a declivity, at the foot of which the Tagus describes a long curve, flowing between the rocks, and passing under two bridges. The walls give it the appearance of an old fortress.

The principal archæological curiosities are as follows; The

Puerta del Sol, a beautiful gate, of Moorish construction, the palaces, and, above all the rest, the ALCAZAR, the towers of which overlook the city. It was the residence of the kings, and, in spite of the degradations to which it has been forced to submit, we can still judge of its former beauty.

THE CATHEDRAL was founded by St Eugene, apostle of Toledo. The Moors turned it into a mosque; the King, Ferdinand the Catholic, in 1227, began the building of the present church. The general plan is that of five parallel naves, the height of which diminishes towards the sides. The cathedral has eight gates, of marvellous workmanship, of Gothic sculpture, with the exception of one, where the bad taste has been displayed of adding a Greek portal. There is a three-storied tower, rising to the height of 325 feet.

In the interior are 88 pillars, formed by clusters of small columns. The choir contains a fine specimen of carved woodwork. The chapels are numerous, and are richly decorated with paintings and monuments. The two principal are the Capilla Mayor and the Mozarabe; in the latter chapel there are some fine frescoes.

The cathedral possesses treasures of immense value. The sacristy contains numerous vestments covered with precious stones, and gold and silver plate of enormous value. There are 750 windows in the cathedral, and when the sun streams through the richly-painted glass it presents a scene of unequalled splendour. Some years since the doors of this vast treasure-house were unhesitatingly thrown open to tourists, but since the opening of the railway, the archbishop, alarmed, doubtless, at the in

creased number of unknown visitors, has caused the chapels containing all this treasure to be closed, and it is exceedingly difficult to get permission to view them. The cloisters have been sadly mutilated by the French. Here are some monuments, and the Library of the Chapter, which contains some curious old manuscripts, and very valuable illuminated missals.

The most frequented promenade in Toledo is in the Plaza of the Zocodover.

This place has from very early times been celebrated for its cutlery, especially for the manufacture of sword-blades. This is still a fruitful source of industry, though the rivalry of Sheffield and other places has deprived it of that ancient prestige which once secured it almost a monopoly amongst the military powers of southern and western Europe. Small arms for the Spanish army are still made at the Fabrica de Armas, which is shown to visitors. It is said that the water and the sand of the Tagus are essential for the proper tempering of the swords. Mr Borrow's testimony as to the comparative merits of the famous Toledan blades of olden date and those that are now fabricated, appears to contradict the opinion commonly entertained on the subject. He inquired of the workmen whether they could manufacture weapons of equal value to those of former days, and whether the secret had been lost. "Ca!" said they, "the swords of Toledo were never so good as those which we are daily making. It is ridiculous enough to see strangers coming here to purchase old swords, the greater part of which are mere rubbish, and never made at Toledo; yet for such they will give a large price, whilst they would grudge two dollars for this jewel, which

was made but yesterday," thereupon putting into my hand a middle-sized rapier. "Your worship," said they, "seems to have a strong arm, prove its temper against the stone wall-thrust boldly, and fear not." I have a strong arm, and dashed the point with my utmost force against the solid granite; my arm was numbed to the shoulder from the violence of the concussion, and continued so for nearly a week, but the sword appeared not to be at all blunted, or to have suffered in any respect.

This is one of the ancient cities of Spain. It has successively been in the possession of the Romans, the Goths, and the Arabs. Later, it was besieged by the Knights of the Order of St John of Jerusalem. At a distance of 15 miles from Alcazar is the village of Toboso,-a name familiar to all readers of Don Quixote, in connection with the erratic knight's lady-love, Dulcinea del Toboso. Alcazar is by some supposed to be the birthplace of Cervantes, but this is

disputed. Passing some places of no interest, we reach

ALBACETE (1743 miles) (Hotels: Parador de Diligencias, de San Juan), population, 15,250. Here are some small cutlery works, the principal articles of their manufacture being sword-blades and daggers, for the most part highly ornamented. The principal buildings are the parish church, the Hotel de Ville, the Palace of Justice, the Theatre (formerly a monastery).

At CHINCHILLA (186 miles) the line to Cartagena branches off to the right.

Almansa (233 miles), population, 9,000. This place is tolerably well built, with wide and straight streets, but not paved. An ancient castle overlooks the town. In the neighbourhood is erected an obelisk, in commemoration of a battle between the 1707. The French being comEnglish and French, on April 25, manded by an Englishman, a natural son of James II., and the English by a Frenchman. The victory was gained by the French. The inscription on the monument is in Latin and Spanish. At La Encina (245 miles) the line to Valencia turns off to the left. At Villena we see an old castle on the summit of a hill, and an old Moorish Alcazar, in ruins, at Elda. Passing through a very fertile country, we reach

ALICANTE (278 miles) (Hotels: Fonda del Vapor, Fonda de Bosio), population, 32,000. This, the port of Madrid, is frequented by the ships of all nations. There is direct communication by steam between Alicante and all the Mediterranean ports. The city possesses some fine buildings, but the streets are badly paved.

The Picture Gallery of the Marquis del Angolfa contains some of the paintings of Murillo, Velasquez, Albert Dürer, &c.;

also a collection of medals. Permission will be granted to visit the Castle, by sending card, with names, to the Governor. The Castle itself is an object of great interest, and a splendid view of the sea and surrounding country can be obtained therefrom. Among other objects of interest are the Ayuntamiento and the Episcopal Palace. There is an extensive tobacco manufactory, employing between 4,000 and 5,000 women and girls.

The Plaza del Toro can accommodate 11,000 spectators. Alicante is a thriving seaport town, its trade principally consisting in the export of wine, raisins, almonds, esparto (for paper-making), saffron, and minerals.

In 1823 it was the last city which surrendered to the French.

ROUTE 189.

MADRID TO CARTHAGENA.

brated for its mineral and tepid springs, which are very much frequented.

Alcantarilla (281 miles) is situated in the midst of a district rich in cornfields and vineyards. In the far distance, on the right, is the sanctuary of Fuen Santa. On the left are a convent of the Hieronymites, and the government gunpowder manufactory.

MURCIA (286 miles) (Hotels: Francesa, Patron), population, 110,000. This city is surrounded by a tract of the most fertile country in Spain, watered by a system of irrigation introduced by the Moors. The Cathedral, formerly a mosque, and subsequently a church belonging to the Knight - Templars, was restored in the 18th century. The reliefs, sculptures, and statues which adorn the facade are all finely executed. The three entrances are surmounted by groups which are especially striking. The style of the building is semi-gothic, except the cupola, which is Græco-Roman. A sarcophagus in the principal chapel contains the remains of

(For the route as far as Chinchilla (186 miles), see preceding Route.)

HE first place of importance is HELLIN (236 miles), in the neighbourhood of which are considerable sulphur mines. On leaving Hellin we pass, on the right, a mountain range intersected by deep valleys. The plain in front is covered with olive plantations. About Calasparra (240 miles), are extensive rice-fields. The country is very fertile, and abounds with fruit

trees of all kinds.

ARCHERIA (261 miles) is cele

sacristy contains a bas-relief, in walnut-wood, representing the Descent from the Cross. The tower is 450 feet high.

The Episcopal Palace has a handsome marble staircase, fine apartments, and a good library.

There is a good Botanical Garden, and the public promenades are extensive and well laid out.

Murcia is celebrated for its silk manufactures. The country becomes by degrees bleak and barren. On the left, near Bazilcas (312 miles), is a large lake, abounding with fish, separated from the sea by a tongue of sand, and communicating with it by a narrow channel. La Palma and Pozo Estrecho (320 miles) are

celebrated for their wines. The level country through which we next pass has a clay soil, and produces little except grapes. CARTHAGENA (328 miles) (Hotels: Francesca, de las Cuatro Naciones), population, 35,000. This town was called by the Romans Colonia Victrix Julia. Its port, on the Mediterranean, is, next to that of Vigo, the largest in Spain, and the roadstead is magnificent. The Arsenal, magazines, shipyards, &c., are on a large scale. There are important lead mines in the neighbourhood. It has no public buildings worthy of particular mention. The old Cathedral is little better than a ruin.

collegiate church, a market-hall for the sale of silk, a Plaza del Toro, some hospitals, a number of convents, and several delightful promenades.

The railway now leaves behind the mountainous tract, and enters upon a well-cultivated country. It is this part, with Andalusia, that the Moors called the "Paradise of the West." The climate is superb, and the whole country very fruitful-rice, wheat, barley, pepper, citrons, oranges, olives, and palm-trees growing in great luxuriance. Passing several places which call for no particular mention, we reach

VALENCIA (3183 miles) (Hotels: de Paris, del Cid, Madrid, Francesca), population, 146,000. This is a large and beautiful city, the capital of the province of the same name, situated on the banks of the Guadalaviar. It is the see of an archbishop, the residence of a captain-general, and the seat of a University. The city is almost circular in form, and surrounded

by walls, which were built in 1356, and are still in a tolerably perfect condition.

Valencia has regular and frequent steam communication with all the Mediterranean ports. The climate is delicious. The Cardinal de Retz called this region the most beautiful garden in the whole world. It has been, in turn, the favourite of the Roman, the Goth, and the Saracen-to the last of whom it owed its chief increase and magnificence. As a seat of learning in the best days of Mahommedan Spain, Valencia ranked second only to Cordova. In the 11th century it was wrested from the Moors by Rodrigo Diaz de Bivar, surnamed the Cid. He maintained his conquest to the close of his life, when the Christians were obliged to abandon the place, taking with them the body of