Page images
PDF
EPUB
[blocks in formation]

mit is very fine.

The Cathedral of Santa Barba is of modern date, having been commenced in 1528. It is built in a mixture of styles. The facade is very beautiful. It consists of two tiers of Roman Corinthian architecture, the columns being of fine marble. In the interior, the roof is supported by lofty columns, faced below with fluted, semicircular pilastres, of the Corinthian order, these being surmounted by a rich cornice and entablature, and finally rising with a second tier of square pilastres. Many of the altars are fine. The silleria of the choir and the two organs are very remarkable. The chapel of the Encarnacion contains a richly sculptured and elegant retable, also some fine paintings. A magnificent view can be obtained by ascending the cathedral

tower.

Many Roman antiquities have been found in the environs of Malaga; especially at the village of Cartama, about four leagues to the west of the town, which is said to be the same as the ancient Roman Carthamum.

The church of Los Santos Martires is one of the most frequented in the city. It has a high tower, decorated in an original manner. The interioris very richly adorned, and contains painted wooden sculptures representing the Apostles and Saints.

Malaga is celebrated for its fine wines, and for its raisins; other articles of export are-oil, almonds, figs, orange-peel, lemons, cochineal, &c.

ROUTE 193.

MALAGA TO GRANADA.

D

ILIGENCES leave Malaga twice daily in winter, and every night in summer, for Granada (68 miles), via Loja, whence there is a railway 331 miles to Granada. Time occupied on route 8 hours.

At BOBADILLA, on the route from Cordova to Malaga (see preceding Route), a railway branches off to Antequara, and from the last-named place to Loja the railway was intended to be finished early in 1871.

LOJA (34 miles), (Hotel: Parador de los Angeles).

GRANADA (Hotels, see "HOTEL LIST") population 100,678.

on a

This city is built on the lower spurs of the Sierra Nevada ranges, and is divided into four quarters, viz., Granada proper, which occupies the space at the foot of the hill and is the residence of the wealthier classes; the Alhambra, situated high hill that commands the rest of the city, and is called La Sierra del Sol (the Mountain of the Sun), the Albaicin, which occupies the upper part of a hill separated from the Sierra del Sol by the valley of the Darro; and, finally, the quarter of Antequeruela, also a suburb, inhabited chiefly by artizans, and lying at the foot of the Albaicin.

The whole district abounds in beautiful scenery, and the snowy mountains, which form the background of the city give the air a delightful freshness even in the hottest season.

The avenue which leads to the Alhambra "the pride of Gra

[ocr errors]

nada, and the boast of Spain "begins at the highest part of the city, and conducts the traveller through a massive gateway of modern architecture up the steep side of a hill, where it is lined with trees and parterres of aromatic shrubs. A turn in the avenue leads to the famous Tower or Gate of Justice.

In the Plaza de los Algibes, or Square of the Cisterns, is situated the Torre de la Vela, or watchtower, where the Christian flag was first hoisted by Cardinal Mendoza. This tower contains the bell that announces the hours for the irrigation of the Vega, which operation is regulated to the present day, according to the rules and forms established by the Moors more than 300 years ago.

On one side of the square extends the palace of Charles V., built in the Renaissance style, still remaining unfinished.

The name Alhambra denotes "the red house." This palace of the Moorish kings consists of a vast and irregular collection of buildings, built of brick, slightly reddened, the walls of which enclose a plateau 770 yards in length and 200 yards wide. It comprises numerous courts and halls, of which the two principal are the Patio-de-los-Leones (Court of Lions) and the Patio-del- Estanque.

The Court of Lions is 100 ft. in length and 50 ft. in breadth, environed with a colonnade 7 ft. broad on the sides, and 10 ft. at the end, of light Moorish arches on slender marble columns. This apartment has been pronounced "the pearl of the Alhambra, solemn as a cloister, and charming as a picture from the Arabian nights.' The square is paved with coloured tiles; the colonnade with white marble. Above and below is a border of small escutcheons, enamelled blue and

gold, with an Arabic motto, signifying "No conqueror but God." The columns that support the roof are of white marble, and very slender. The width of the horse-shoe arches above them is 4 ft. 2 inches for the larger ones, and 3 ft. for the smaller. Above each arch is a large square of arabesques, surrounded with a rim of characters, generally quotations from the Koran. Over the pillars is another square of filigree work "like a tissue of Brussels lace." In the centre of the court is the celebrated lion fountain, a basin of oriental alabaster supported upon twelve animals, which rather resemble panthers than lions. This fountain is embellished with festoons and Arabic distiches.

The Patio del Estanque is an oblong square with a deep basin of water in the middle, two flights of marble steps leading to the bottom. Round this court runs a peristyle paved with marble; the arches bear upon very slight pillars, and the ceiling and walls are incrusted with fretwork in stucco, so minute and intricate as to almost defy the labours of the most patient draughtsman to follow it. In every division are Arabic sentences. The ceilings are gilt, or painted, and time has caused no diminution in the freshness of their colours. The lower part of the walls is mosaic, disposed in fantastic knots and festoons. The porch on the right hand opens into an octagon vault, under the Emperor's palace, and forms a perfect whispering gallery.

On the south side of the colonnade is a circular room with a fountain in the middle. The form of the hall, the elegance of its cupola, and the exquisite manner in which the stucco is designed and painted, exceed description. Everything inspires the most

pleasing ideas; yet in this retreat it is said Abuabdulah assembled the Abencerrages, and caused their heads to be struck off into the fountains, in token whereof red stains on the central marble fountain are still pointed out to the romantic. Opposite to the Hall of the Abencerrages is the little myrtle garden of Lindaraxa, leading to the apartments of Charles V., around which are frequent inscriptions of the Emperor's favourite motto, Plus Outre. This leads to the Tocadorde-la-Reina, or the dressing-room of the Sultana. It is a small square cabinet in an open gallery, into which perfumes ascended through perforated tiles, from a furnace below. The Emperor caused this pretty room to be painted with representations of his wars, and a variety of grotesque subjects.

There are numerous other apartments, including the Hall of Ambassadors, which contains the mottoes of all the kings of Granada, and is magnificently decorated; and the Audience Hall, the interior of which is inlaid with mosaics of various colours, disposed in knots, stars, and other figures. The walls are 15 feet thick.

The Alhambra was commenced by Aben Alhamar, the founder of Granada, in 1248, and its principal additions and embellishments were the works of YouzefAben-el-Hedjadj, the seventh king of Granada, who ascended the throne in 1333.

The restorations of the Alhambra have been admirably carried on by Senor Contreras, since 1862, when he was commissioned by the Ex-Queen Isabella to repair the palace. The Senor's studio will well repay a visit.

The royal country-house of the Generalife is situated higher on the hill than the palace, from

which it is separated by a small ravine, and by the lines of the fortifications. Both the Alhambra and the Generalife overhang the deep and narrow valley of the Darro, which precipitates itself from the Sierra Nevada and falls into the Genil, not far from the city.

The Generalife is of small dimensions, and its chief attrac tions are the Hall of the Princes, the Hall of the Portraits, and the hall which was formerly a private mosque, but has been converted into a Christian chapel.

A private door on the highest terrace of the Generalife, leads to a spot on the summit of the hill, called the Silla del Rey Moro, or chair of the Moorish king, from which there is a splendid view of the surrounding landscape.

The Cathedral is a splendid but irregular building. It is profusely ornamented with jasper and marble, and is surmounted by a dome supported by twelve superb columns, in front of which are statues of the twelve Apostles in gilded bronze. The adjoining chapel contains some of the best pictures and statues by the Spanish artist Alonzo-Cano, and his pupil Pedro-de-Mena; and a Holy Family by Murillo; and among its numerous monuments, those of Ferdinand and Isabella.

The Capilla-de-los-Reyes-Catolicos communicates with the cathedral, but is under a separate roof. It is of Gothic architecture and remarkable for the boldness of its arch, which supports the roof. It contains the marble tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella, whose remains are in the vault underneath, together with those of their daughter Juana and her husband Philip I.

Ferdinand's sword is shown, also the royal standards used at the conquest, and a splendid vest

ment worked by Isabella for Cardinal Mendoza.

The Church of San Geronimo, belonging to the ancient convent of the Hieronymites, is a noble piece of architecture. It contains the tomb of the Great Captain, Gonsalvo of Cordova, by whom it was founded. Two kneeling statues of Gonsalvo and his wife are placed one on each side of the high altar.

Among other objects of interest are the palace of the Chancilleria, the Episcopal Palace and the Alcaieria, the latter an ancient Moorish bazaar, containing about 200 shops, and still applied to its original use; a spacious theatre built by General Sebastiani during the occupation of the city by the French army, and an amphitheatre.

The principal Plazas or squares, are the Plaza de la Constitucion, 400 feet by 200 feet, embellished by an elegant jasper fountain; the Plaza Mayor, and the Plaza del Triunfo, the last named being the scene of the final victory gained by the Christians over the Moors, to commemorate which, a large monument of white marble stands in the centre of the square. Opposite to the facade of the theatre, a monument has been raised to the memory of the heroic lady Dona Mariana Pineda, and the other martyrs of liberty in 1831.

The Vega or plain, upon which the city is situated, contains within its circuit not less than fiftytwo towns; and in its centre appears the Soto de Roma, a tract belonging to the Duke of Wellington, which was granted to the first Duke and his successors in acknowledgment of his services, at the conclusion of the Peninsular War.

ROUTE 194.

VALENCIA TO BARCELONA, BY TARRAGONA.

To Tarragona, 172 miles; first class, 123r. 86s.; second, 79r. 20s.; third, 58r. 60s.

M

URVIEDRO (18 miles) stands on the site of the ancient Roman town of Saguntum, of which many remains have been discovered. Crossing the Palencia we skirt a mountain range, beneath which stretches a plain covered with cornfields, oliveyards, and vineyards. Nules (32 miles), a fortified town of 4100 inhabitants, is celebrated for its mineral waters. Passing several other places we reach CASTELLON DE LA PLANA (43 miles), (Hotel de Espana), population 20,500. This is the birthplace of the celebrated painter, Francisco Ribalta. Some of his works are to be seen in the church of La Sangre, and in the Casa Capitular, in the Plaza de la Constitucion. The Torre de las Campanas is an octagonal belfry, 265 feet high. There are some good paintings in the several convents. Benicarlo (88 miles), population 6200, is a fortified town, with a small port. The district is rich in vineyards, and the chief business of the place is the production of a strong red wine, which is imported to Bourdeaux, and used to strengthen the poorer kinds of claret for the English and American markets. Vinaroz (91 miles), population 10,000, is famous for its fisheries of sturgeon and lampreys. TORTOSA (120 miles), population 22,000, is a fortified town, situ

ated on the Ebro. The Cathedral is ornamented with fine marbles and bas-reliefs. The chapel of the Santa Cinta contains the girdle said to have been brought down from heaven in 1178 by the Virgin herself, and delivered to a priest. It is said that it works miracles in the cure of diseases. The Castle is in ruins. The view from the battlements is very fine. Passing some unimportant places, we reach

TARRAGONA (172 miles), (Hotel: Europa), population 21,000. This was a great city in the time of the Romans. It stands on a hill above the Francoli, and is surrounded by a spacious and richly cultivated plain. The handsome Gothic Cathedral was erected in the eleventh century. Its facade is adorned with numerous reliefs and statues. The interior is plain but imposing. There are some beautiful painted windows; the Silleria of the choir is finely carved in wood; the cloisters are worth a visit. The

Plaza de la Constitucion occupies the site of a Roman circus. Amongst other remains are those of the Capitol, the forum, the palace of Augustus, and the aqueduct.

From Tarragona to Barcelona, 63 miles; first class, 44 r. 56 c.; second, 33r. 13 c.; third, 21 r. 24 c.

Near Torre de Barra (8 miles) we observe a very fine Roman triumphal arch. Passing through a beautiful country we reach MARTORELL (45 miles), populalation 5000. The chief object of interest here is the fine Roman bridge called the Puente del Diabolo, with a triumphal arch at one end.

BARCELONA (63 miles), (Hotels; see "HOTEL LIST,") population 225,000. This, the most important manufacturing city in Spain, is beautifully situ

ated on the Mediterranean, in the midst of a fertile district. It is walled, and has a citadel, which, however, is effectually commanded by the fortress of Montjoi on the south-west. It is divided into two parts by the Rambla (riverbed), which is a beautiful promenade. The streets of the old town are narrow and ill paved, but those of the new town are more spacious and regular, while most of the houses are of hewn

stone, and of an imposing appearance. The squares are numerous, but, for the most part, small and irregular. The largest of them, the Plaza del Palacio, is very spacious and elegant, having on one side the governor's palace, on the opposite side the exchange, on the south the sea-gate and the custom-house, and on the north a row of good houses. In the centre stands a beautiful marble fountain. The houses are four and five stories high, having large windows with balconies. Many of them have their fronts adorned with paintings in fresco; and several of the public buildings are remarkable, both on account of their external beauty and the curiosities which they contain. The Cathedral, which is about 160 feet long and 62 feet broad, has a magnificent appearance. Twelve Gothic pillars separate the nave and aisles; and a large octagonal dome, of Gothic architecture, with eight galleries, stands in the middle of the space between the choir and the great door. The sanctuary, which stands over a subterranean chapel containing the relics of St Eulalia, is formed by ten pillars arranged in a semicircle, and enclosing the great altar, which is in the Gothic style, and of exquisite workmanship. The convent of La Merci has a large church, with a Doric portal, and a fine front composed of two stories of

« PreviousContinue »