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Denmark in the world, and if her course with curious old frescoes and inscripwere taken slowly, with her own Parlia- tions, and so into the cathedral. The mentary consent, there would be none. interior is far more picturesque than We write with the utmost detestation of beautiful. In the lofty choir is a grand the idea which, if realized, must extin- pascal candlestick, supporting a crouchguish one of the oldest nationalities in ing figure. Portraits of all the popes Europe, and another of the small States connected with Anagni hang over the where alone they dare experiments in throne and stalls. The whole pavement living, but we cannot blind ourselves to of the church is of the most splendid the many and powerful motives which opus alexandrinum, though much deoblige all parties to consider the chances cayed, and in the choir it reaches a degree of such a solution. It would make Ger- of minuteness and perfection like delimany more than ever powerful, and that cate jewellers' work. Here the cardinals to a 'State still hemmed in by three more elected Innocent IV., after they had reor less hostile States, would be a suffi- ceived the furious letter of the Emperor cient argument; it would preserve Den- Frederick II., calling them sons of Bemark from Republicanism and Socialism, lial.” Here (September 7, 1303) Boniface and that to her upper classes and her VIII. knelt at the altar in his pontifical Court would be a sufficient reason for in- robes, when the French, prompted by his curring a fate which to them might not hereditary enemies, the Colonnas, had seem a degradation, but a relief from the forced the gates of the town, and burst final dismemberment they fear in the very into the streets crying, “ Vive le roi de next war. The time of course is not yet France, et meure Boniface.” Here also come; but it must come, while France is three Hohenstaufens, Barbarossa, Fredunready, and England paralyzed by her erick II.,
and Manfred, were excommuniown uncertainties; and we are greatly mis- cated. Two chapels on the left of the taken if, while Prince Bismarck compli- nave are filled with Gaetani memorials. mented Herr Kryger on his performance In one is a Greek inscription. In the of his duty, he was not rolling this new other is a painting of the Madonna, of idea under his tongue. Denmark unfor- 1322, and the grand Mosaic tomb wrought tunately is now out of India, or with a by the Cosmati (“magister Cosmas, civis German flag flying twelve miles from Cal- Romanus, cum filiis suis Luca et Jacocutta we might have been more keenly po'), known as “Il sepolchro della fainterested in the fate of the poor State.* miglia di Bonifazio.” In the sacristy are
preserved some curious copes, and the * How wou!d the transfer of the Danish West Indies croziers of Innocent III. and Boniface to Germany affect the United States? – Ed. Living VIII. The crypt is given up to the espeAge.
cial saints of Anagni, who are numerous, and whose story, in a series of very early frescoes, occupies the walls. The south
altar is devoted to Santa Oliva, whose From Good Words. bones and head are shown in a glass case AN ITALIAN CATHEDRAL.
beneath her statue. Opposite her is St. It is a very short distance up the hill Magnus, bishop and martyr, who is repto the cathedral (Sta. Maria), which is the resented above seated between two virgin most interesting mediæval building in saints. Beneath another altar are the this part of Italy, except the convent of martyrs Secunda, Aurelia, and Neonissa. Subiaco. The see dates from A.D. 487. In the tribune, which has a magnificent On the wall, above what was once the pavement, is the papal throne, and over great south entrance, Boniface VIII. sits it, in ancient fresco, the whole story of aloft, in robes and tiara, in his throne of the Apocalypse,- the seven candlesticks, state. Over his head, blazoned in gold the seven churches, the twenty-four eland mosaic, are the illustrious alliances ders in adoration of the spotless Lamb, of the Gaetani before his time. The &c., and, in the centre, above the altar, steps beneath this statue, which must the Redeemer seated on a rainbow, with have had a magnificent effect in the open the two-edged sword proceeding out of space, as seen from the valley beneath, his mouth. The tall Romanesque tower were destroyed thirty years ago by a cer- of the cathedral is not joined to the rest tain Marchese (even his name seems to of the building, but stands alone upon a be forgotten), and the present entrance is little green platform at the west end of by the north, where a quaint winding the church. Hence there is a grand view staircase leads into a dark gallery, lined over the valley, but to Roman Catholics a
more interesting feature will be the knot leaving the Place de la Concorde for the of brown buildings on the barren side of Arc de Triomphe, and, after a few spoonthe mountain, about six miles above Ana- fuls of printanier soup, partake of salmon, gni ; for this is Acuto, where the re- or salmon-trout, au sauce verte, and he cently founded but ever-increasing order will, or I am much mistaken, forget many of the Precious Blood had its origin, and of his cares, if he has any, whilst eating where its foundress, Maria de Matthias, of that dish of fish. In the same way, let lived till her death, about seven years no one who dines or breakfasts “ with a ago. The story of her vocation is quite fork" at Phillipe's omit to order sole à la as romantic and curious as that of any Normande; or to eat of either meal at old saintly legend, and that of her found the Café Anglais without ordering that ing here a large sisterhood and school, most wonderful of all beefsteaks, called which she supported by faith and prayer, -after its inventor, the famous author of without any definite sources of assist- La Génie du Christianisme” – a “Chaance, in the same way in which the im-teaubriand ; " or to visit St. Cloud without mense institutions of the Protestant Mul- stopping at the Tête Noire, and ordering ler are carried on at Clifton. Of her more than one dish — served hot and hot, extraordinary influence on the surround- after the fashion of Greenwich whitebait, ing districts, no one who has visited them whose place it takes in France - of a can have a doubt, or of the power of her friture of gudgeons fresh from the Seine. sermons, which were simple discourses of And the list might be prolonged almost loving practical Christianity, such as Miss indefinitely, for there is hardly a good Marsh might have delivered. When she restaurant within six miles of Notre was likely to preach, thousands flocked Dame that does not pride itself upon to hear her, and when she appeared, a some one particular dish. In eating, as silence fell upon the crowd, with the in other things in France, Englishmen as whisper, “ Hush, the great mother is go- a rule seldom go beneath the surface. ing to speak to us.”
The common opinion of even travelled
rich and difficult of digestion. So it is -- when it is bad. From an indifferent
French restaurant, as from those female
From Belgravia. so-called cooks who hire themselves out HOW AND WHERE TO DINE IN PARIS.
at an exorbitant wages to English and In Paris, as everywhere else, and in all American families residing in Paris, matters connected with life, one ought to heaven defend all who have a horror of know how to dine — that is, what to dyspepsia, and who think that a man may order — and where to do so; by which I eat and yet not dine! Go amongst mean the knowledge as to what restau- French families, and taste of their everyrants are best suited for one's means, and day table ; you will find nowhere in Euwhat houses provide best the particular rope so few sauces, so little pepper or kind of dinner that is required. "In every other condiments, so much cleanliness in noted restaurant in Paris there are cer- cooking, or such an excellent yet natural tain dishes upon which the establishment taste of the fish, flesh, fowl, vegetables, prides itself and has done so for many or whatever you may eat of. To comyears. Thus let any one eat filets braisés pare the simplicity of real French home- whether ail tomate, as it ought to be cookery with our English middle and ordered in summer ; aux champignons, upper middle-class curries, stews, sauces as is the proper thing in autumn; oraux from bottles, rich soups, and what not, truffes, as any one who knows what dining would be like comparing the most fiery is would call for in winter — at the port-wine with good St. Julien. Live Maison Dorée, and I am very much inis- which very few Englishmen ever do taken if he or she, as the case may be, amongst Frenchmen, and you will find will ever hope to have the same dish in that they all dislike — except on a rare the same perfection again. Or in the exceptional opportunity. - la cuisine du first of the warm spring days, when the restaurant, and prefer infinitely the cuileaves of the trees in the Tuileries are sine bourgeoise, or home-cookery; which something more than buds, let the reader, is at one and the same time the most after his saunter in the Champs Elysées, wholesome, the most tasty, and yet the wander into Ledoyen’s, the famous res- most simple in the world. taurant, a little way up on the left after