I went to an Alehoufe, where I afked the Tapfter feveral Questions about the Place, and the People; as well knowing that we Travellers fhould improve ourselves. He proved in Converfation to be an understanding Lad, for I found he had been once at a Grammar School; so when I paid for my Pint of Ale, I gave him a Penny over and above for himself. The Ale here was but poor Stuff. The Country hereabouts is well wooded, and very full of People.

At Kenfington the King has a fine Houfe, and large Garden. Here are alfo feveral other Gardens very fine; but (more Shame is theirs) they fell whatever they produce. The Ale here is ftark enough. We went through Hide-park to London, which is as pretty a Piece of Road as ever Crow flew over.

London, is certainly the greatest City upon Earth; at leaft there is nothing like it in Devonfire; but our Beer is infinitely better than theirs, which is as black as Bull's Blood, and as thick as Muftard. Every thing is fhamefully dear here; you pay half a Crown or three Shillings for a Chicken, which, with us, would not yield above a Groat or Fivepence; but they have fo many Cuftomers, that they afk and have juft what they pleafe. You fee a great many Coaches ftanding in the Street ready to be hired, and they will carry a Beggar for his Money, as foon as a Lord, and fooner; for they fay, that Perfons of Quality inftead of paying the Coachman do often run him through the Body, and it seems there is no Law against Lords, which is the Reafon that Perfons of Quality are greater than any fort of Men whatsoever. Thefe Coaches are very convenient, if they were not VOL. II. L

fo

fo confounded dear; but if one of them carries you but three Doors, he will have a Shilling: whereas in our Country, you may have a Couple of Horfes a dozen Miles for half a Crown.

The Houses are all built of Brick, and for the moft Part one House holds feveral Families: fo fond are People of living in London, notwithftanding the Badness of the Drink!

Here are alfo hireling Chairs; they are covered with black Leather and brass Nails, they have fine fashed Windows, and a fafhed Door, and fine filk Curtains, and a rare foft Cushion one of them is carried by two fhort Fellows, with no Heels to their Shoes, they use two long Poles, and pace along with wonderful Expedition. These Chairs too are devilish dear.

There are here Houses called Chocolate-houses, covered all over with Sconces and Lookingglaffes. Hither Gentlemen who have nothing to do, but to drefs themselves, repair to fhew their fine Clothes; it is worth while to fee a whole Row of thofe Beaus fit looking at one another, or at themselves; or if they do any thing else, it is only to fwear and take Snuff, or to play at Dice, and then all the while they play, they are conftantly damning themselves. It is almoft become a Proverb here, in London, that all your fine Fellows, are prodigiously ignorant, and prodigiously wicked; infomuch, that they are the Jeft of Men of Wit, and pitied by Men of Virtue, and fhunned by both.

There is a fine River running by London full of Ships and Boats; one of these Boats will carry you for Sixpence, and fome of them for Threepence a great Way; and it would be very pleafant, if it were not for the Abuse and ugly Lan

guage

guage you meet with; for the People upon the Water will affront you to your Teeth, and call you a hundred Names, though you do not say a Word to them: it is to no Purpose to be angry, or to threaten them; they laugh at all that. I offered to get out of the Boat and to box with feveral of those faucy Fellows, but not one of them would accept of my Challenge; nay, the Women are as bad as the Men. The more Shame is theirs!

I went to see St. Paul's Church (which is almoft as big as a Town, and much taller) to fee my Lord-Mayor. He was an elderly Man in a red Gown, pretty fat, and flept all the time of divine Service; for which I thought he was to blame, feeing it would have better become a Magiftrate like him, to have reproved the People for walking about the Church, as they did, and talking about their own worldly Affairs.

Westminster Hall is a vaft great Room, where Law and Juftice have been bought fo dear, that one had oftener better go without them. The Lawyers ftroll about here, and look devilish fharp and greedy for Fees. There are in the Hall other Toymen befides Lawyers, and they will fell you their Baubles at treble Prices, fo there is nothing but biting on all Hands.

Not far from hence, is the House of Commons. I went to fee it, and to see the Manner of their Proceedings, and came away very much diffatisfied; for a dozen Members talked at a time, and I could not understand a Word of the Debate. I alfo vifited the Houfe of Lords; there, indeed I perceived more Order, but neither heard, nor faw any thing remarkable, but fome grave Folks in odd Habits.

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There

There is a Street in London called Drury-lane, which is a very fcandalous Place, being for the moft Part inhabited by filthy lewd Women, and yet is frequented by great Men, and grave Citizens. It is therefore, no Wonder, thefe fhamelefs Jades wear fine Clothes and gold Watches.

In this great City they are quite another thing, than what they are out of it; infomuch, that he who will be great with you in the Country, will scarce pull off his Hat to you in London. I once dined at Exeter with a Couple of Judges, and they talked to me there, and drank my Health, and we were very familiar together; fo when I faw them again, paffing through Westminster Hall, I was glad of it, with all my Heart, and ran to meet them with a broad Smile, and asked them how they did, and to fhake Hands with them; but they looked at me. fo coldly, and fo proudly, as you cannot imagine, and did not seem to know me; at which I was confounded angry and mad;

but I kept my Mind to myfelf. At another time. I was at the Play-houfe (which is a rare Place for Mirth, and Mufic, and Dancing) and being in the Pit, faw in one of the Boxes a Member of Parliament of our Country, with whom I have been as great as Hand and Glove; fo being. overjoy'd to fee him, I called to him aloud by his Name, and asked him how he did; but instead of faluting me again, or making any Manner of Anfwer, he looked plaguy four, and never opened his Mouth; though when he is in the Country, he is as merry a Grig as any in fifty Miles, and we have cracked many a Bottle together.

Thus, my good Friend, I have given to you fo long an Account of my Journey, that I fear I

have tired you; but never mind it, when I come down, I'll tell you as much more, when we fit over a Bottle and can find no other Subject to talk of. Till which Time I tell you plainly that I am

Your Friend and humble Servant.

4

Mrs. Rowe to the Countess of Hertford.

Madam,

THIS is the laft Letter you will ever receive

from me; the laft Affurance I fhall give you on Earth of a fincere and ftedfaft Friendship; but when we meet again, I hope it will be in the Height of immortal Love and Extafy. Mine perhaps may be the firft glad Spirit to congratulate your fafe Arrival on the happy Shores. Heaven can witness how fincere my Concern for your Happiness is; thither I have fent my ardent Wishes, that you may be fecured from the flattering Delufions of this World, and after your pious Example has been long a Bleffing to Mankind, you may calmly refign your Breath, and enter the Confines of unmolefted Joy.

I am now taking my Farewel of you here, but 'tis a fhort Adieu; for I die with full Perfuafion that we fhall foon meet again. But O! in what Elevation of Happiness! in what Enlargement of Mind, and Perfection of every Faculty; what tranfporting Reflections fhall we make of the Advantages ofwhich we shall find ourselves eternally poffeffed! To him who liveth and washed us in his Blood, we fhall afcribe immortal Glory, Dominion and Praife for ever. L 3

This