The day passed as described till after dark, by which time the company had taken their leave; and the baker had a good dinner of pilaw and other Persian dishes. Mr. Durie did not often dine with him, nor was there ever company; but there always sat down a party of four, which was made up by the Moollah, a young nephew of the baker's, and an old man, on crutches, who was related to him. After dinner, nobody came in but neighbours; and these were generally Mr. Durie, and two petty Dooraunee Khauns, who were not in the army, but had lands and houses, and lived on the rent of them. They both kept horses, and lived in a very respectable way. They were perfectly good natured, and well bred, and always behaved with great civility to Mr. Durie. These gentlemen, and the people of the house, used to converse on religion and war, repeat odes from the Persian poets, and question Mr. Durie about India and the Europeans. They were particularly delighted with some English songs which he sung, and afterwards explained in Persian. The whole party used to sing in turn till late at night * "with great glee;" and "when they had music, they used to sing together excellent well:" the baker, in particular, seemed quite transported when he was

*The words between commas are Mr. Durie's.

singing. One of the Khauns also played very well on the rubaub. Such are the employments of idle people within doors. They also go out to sit in shops, and hear the news; to talk to their friends in the market place; to hear tales and ballads in the streets; or to the gardens of Fakeers, which, instead of being places where great austerity is practised, are the resort of all idle people, and particularly of those who smoke intoxicating drugs. They also go out in parties" to gardens, where there are many trees and rivulets for pastime;" a pleasure, of which Mr. Durie speaks in very high terms. To this it may be added, that persons in easy circumstances often drink wine in the evening, and have people to dance, sing, and exhibit feats of strength or dexterity. The dancing is commonly performed by boys. Female dancers are not uncommon in Peshawer, but very much so to the west.

The common people in the Afghaun towns wear the dress, and retain the customs of the country to which they happen to belong; and, in consequence, the streets exhibit a curious spectacle in the assemblage of people from the different tribes and nations of the empire, each distinguished by the peculiar dress and manners of his race. Notwithstanding this circumstance, and the diversity of habits, language, and religion, which must be found in such a society,

they all seem to mix well, and to live in perfect harmony with each other. The only exception to this, is the enmity between the Sheeahs and Soonnees of Caubul, and even they associate and intermarry with each other.

From all that I have seen or heard, and particularly from the accounts of Mr. Durie, I should not suppose the condition of the people in towns to be unhappy. But their situation would be dreadful to an Englishman: and the ease they enjoy, must be attributed to the practical philosophy, which all men acquire in similar circumstances, and which enables them to bear the evils to which they are habituated, without reflections on the past or fears for the future.

421

CHAP. IX.

OF THE GREAT.

THE only class of inhabitants that remains to

be described is composed of the great;

under which denomination, I include all the Dooraunee chiefs, and the heads of the tribes, with the principal persons who follow them to Court, and all the Persians and Taujiks who hold offices about the King. The first classes of these nobles occasionally reside at their castles; but that is only when they are at variance with the King, or during short periods, when the Court is in the neighbourhood; and they can make expeditions to their own castles to avoid the heat of summer, or to enjoy the amusements of hunting. Their permanent residence is always with the Court.

Their houses are on the plan of those which I have seen at Peshawer*; but their residence at that city being only temporary, they are not so magnificent there as in other parts of the country.

They are all enclosed by high walls, and contain (besides stables, lodgings for servants, &c.)

* See Journal.

three or four different courts, generally laid out in gardens, with ponds and fountains. One side of each court is occupied by a building, comprising various small apartments in two or three stories, and some large halls, which occupy the middle of the building for its whole height. The halls are supported by tall wooden pillars, and Moorish arches, carved, ornamented, and painted like the rest of the hall. The upper rooms open on the halls, by galleries which run along half way up the wall, and are set off with pillars and arches. The halls, being only separated by pillars and sashes of open wood-work, can always be thrown into one, by removing the sashes. The back of the innermost one is a solid wall, in which is the fire-place. The upper part of this wall is ornamented with false arches, which look like a continuation of the galleries, and which, as well as the real arches, are filled up on great occasions with paintings in oil, looking-glasses, and other ornaments. There are smaller rooms along the other sides of the court-yards; and among them are comfortable apartments for the retirement of the master of the house, one of which at least is fitted up with glass windows, for cold weather. There are fire-places in many of these different apartments. The walls and pillars are ornamented with flowers in various patterns, painted in distemper or in oil, on a white ground composed of a sort