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pears only in a passive character-seems | highlands which receive and retain, in never to lose sight of herself; her person-lakes or tarns, the more than ordinary al adventures form her chief topic of dis- supply of rain that falls in the country; course; and how she strikes the country and by the quantity of snow, accumulated is a question with her of deeper interest during the greater part of the year, that than “how it strikes a stranger.” The the sun of summer melts. Countless protected lady, on the contrary, saved streams thus formed work their way seafrom the consciousness of doing an extra- ward; but they can not find a smooth ordinary thing, has an eye for all that is passage in this land of rocks. Sometimes, beautiful and grand in nature, for all that as with the Rjukan-foss, a heavy volume of is new and interesting in the habits of water forces itself through a those with whom she mingles. Madame chasm, falling several hundred feet into a D'Aunet merely crossed Norway, en route rocky basin, with a loud, hissing sound; to Spitzbergen; but her cursory notes of sometimes there is a series of falls, one travel are full of life and picturesque de- broad surface of rock after another being tail. Before, however, trusting ourselves covered with a white, changeful drapery, to her guidance, or that of the other ladies, and the sound heard being a murmur ra. we will give a passing glance at the ther than a roar; often a single thread, general aspect of the country through bright as silver, falls down a steep cliff, which they travelled.

connecting the valley below with the The Norway of our childhood, as re- fjeld two thousand feet above it, and sur. presented on ordinary maps, is remarkable prising the observer by its continuity, till, chietly for a long continuous range of on reaching the spot, he finds how much hills, dividing it from Sweden, and ex- his eye has been deceived as to its volume tending from the Naes in the south to and weight. the North Cape. But a truer notion Another peculiar feature of Norwegian would be given by omitting this backbone, scenery is to be found in its fjords, inlets and substituting for it something resem- from the jagged coast to the very heart of bling the shagreen covering of certain the country, that carry there the blue sea, kinds of fish. The mountains of Norway with its tides, and surf, and salt. The are neither one connected chain running Sogne-fjord is a hundred and ten miles in through an otherwise flat country, nor length. Many of these fjords are pent in

. are they distinct elevations. The whole on either side by perpendicular cliffs, no country is mountainous, and the south footway being left at their base. Such is especially is distinguished by a series of the case with the Näroe-fjord, one of the plateaux, or table-lands, called there many ramifications of the Sogne-fjord, of "fjelds,” more or less connected together, which Professor Forbes speaks as most though frequently separated by narrow desolate, and even terrific.” He says: and deep valleys. The general elevation "My companion had fallen into a deep of these fjelds is fully three thousand feet sleep; the air was still, damp, and calm; above the sea; but, rising higher than the oars plashed, with a slow measure, they, are mountain summits, aiguilles, of into the deep, black, fathomless abyss of which the highest yet measured is said to water below, which was bounded on either attain an elevation of eight thousand five side by absolute walls of rock, without, in hundred feet. Some of the fjelds have general, the smallest slope of débris at the well-known names, and are often traversed, foot, or space enough any where for a as the Sogne-fjeld, the Dovrefjeld, the goat to stand; and whose tops, high as Fille-fjeld, and the Hardanger-fjeld; but they indeed are, seemed higher by being others have been as yet only imperfectly lost in clouds which formed, as it were, explored, and among them are glaciers a level roof over us, corresponding to the whose peculiarities have still to be de-watery floor beneath." scribed.

Then there are the forests of Norway; It is not for the sake of its fjelds, not those only to which her children have storm-swept and wild, trackless or at been largely indebted for the materials of least difficult of

passage, that tourists are commerce, but those standing on wilder usually drawn to Norway. It has a strong tracts of country, untroubled as yet by attraction in its rivers and waterfalls. the band of the feller, where the giants of The abundance of its running water may former generations have fallen and gone be accounted for by the flat surface of the to decay, and where many a noble shaft VOL. XLIV.-NO. II

12

more than a hundred feet in height still deposit of gravel and earth, brought down rears its stately form above a thick under- by water currents; and it is curious to growth of lesser trees. None of us observe how, as soon as the débris has bedoubts of the abundance of pine to be come firm, such banks have been chosen seen in Norway, especially those kinds as the sites of little farms. Crops of barcommonly known as Scotch and spruce ley and oats, potatoes and hops, are firs, that furnish the red and white deals grown; and among the fruit-trees we find and timber of our builders : but it is the apple and the cherry. The farms, pleasant to know that the woods of Nor- each belonging to a separate proprietor, way are not altogether monotonous; but are generally so small, that the question that, fringing many a ravine and water- occurs how the farmer contrives to get a course, may be seen the varied foliage of living. His chief wealth consists in his the birch, alder, and ash. On the shore cattle. Of these he keeps a stock quite of the Skaggerack, even oaks are not un disproportioned to the size of his homecommon; and farther north, the graceful stead. They are very small, delicatebranches of the wych-elm, and the full, looking, and dun-colored. When midrich, rounded form of the sycamore, add summer comes, they are driven from the to the beauty of the landscape. The aspen valleys to the fjelds, where they remain is common, enlivening the woods with its till winter, thriving on the abundant and smooth white bark and delicate leaves, sweet herbage to be found on these heights which, in rocky declivities, change early during the brief weeks of warm weather. to a bright yellow. The limit of the pine Meantime, every rood at home is closely growth is about 2900 feet; but the birch shorn, and hay is made on each open climbs higher up, clothing the gray cliff's patch, or sunny nook, or earth-covered with verdure to the height of 3300 feet. ledge of rock. Still higher, a stunted willow and the ju- The people

of Norway, a country twice niper are found ; and when these plants as large as England and Wales, are so cease to grow, a creeping dwarf birch, sparsely scattered over its surface, that, about six inches high, with reindeer moss, in all, their number is only half that of succeeds, and, clinging to the cold moun- London; yet even that population is retain side, more than pays back in cheerful dundant, and annually seeks relief by embeauty what it gathers of scanty nourish- igration. Few settlers from other counment. Nor must we think of Norway as tries are allured to its shores. Even its nearly destitute of flowers. Not only are sunniest valleys offer little temptation to roses, lilacs, and other flowering shrubs the generality of emigrants—men whose grown in gardens in the neighborhood of characteristic is to prefer the bare chance Christiania, but, passing through the of wealth to the certainty of competence. tangled thickets of the south, one lights Norway was an almost untraveled counon sunny glades made beautiful by patches sry previous to the present century; and of delicate blue pansies, or yellow violets. it is only within the last few years that it Beds of lily of the valley nestling in some has been visited by the ordinary tourist. shady copse are not infrequent, and the Being the highway to nothing but the forget-me-not is still more common; while North Pole, it was long before many cared the edges of corn-fields are often decked to cross its stony, ice-cold heights. Men with a profusion of wild flowers-con- of science to study its geology, and exspicuous among them the showy foxglove amine its glaciers; artists to sketch its and monkshood.

wonderful scenery, and to catch the glow The dals or valleys of Norway form a of its matchless summer evenings; anglers striking contrast to its highlands. They to seek its trout as large as salmon, and are cultivated and fruitful. In a country its salmon larger than belief; these were where the general surface consists of ele- its occasional visitors; but now long-vavated and barren table land, (the propor- cation barristers, Oxford and Cambridge tion of arable land to the whole extent of students, and even unprotected females, Norway is not, according to Professor consider it open ground. Generally Munch, more than one to ten,) it will be speaking, their travels are confined to readily believed that industrious and in South Norway, few venturing upon that telligent land-owners turn to account every long and narrow slip of country that lies available spot of earth. In some places above the Throndjhems-fjord, and mostly banks have been formed consisting of a within the Arctic Circle.

South-Norway contains the three cities It must be remembered that the Nor of the kingdom, situated relatively to way carriole is adapted for one traveler each other like the feet and the pivot of a only, and that it gives no protection is partially opened pair of compasses. Ber- case of rain. There is a kind of gig that gen and Christiania are nearly in the will seat two persons, but this is not to be same latitude, on opposite sides of the procured except at the larger towns. It country. Throndjhem (pronounced is customary for travelers to purchase Tronyem) and Christiania differ little as their own conveyance, and to sell it again to longitude; but the former is more than when its work is done. Those who dethree degrees farther north than the cline this arrangement, and prefer trustother cities. The roads which lie be- ing to chance of travel, must expect to be tween—for they can scarcely be said to treated sometimes to light carts instead of connect these three cities—are so difficult carrioles : these are simply square deal of passage, that a few years ago it was a boxes, roughly put together. As they are rare thing to meet with an inhabitant of placed on low wheels, and not furnished Bergen who had even visited the modern with springs, it may well be imagined capital; and an Englishman who had that the jolting is all but insufferable. crossed the intervening fjelds and fjords About four years ago an experienced was thought to have performed a marvel- Norwegian traveler asked the question, ous feat. Although a railway now conveys and asked it in print : “How far is it the traveler from Christiania to the Miö- practicable for ladies to travel in Norsen-vand, and a steamer plies on that lake, way?" He dwells on the difficulties of yet, to proceed further, he must commit an extensive trip-say of four or five himself to the native carriole, occasionally hundred miles-especially naming the forsaking that for the saddle, and often put-open vehicle, no larger than a park-chaise, ting himself, his carriage, and his horse, the uncertainty of the climate, the scarcity on board small flat-bottomed skiffs. The of good accommodation on unfrequented road-makers of Norway have no idea of roads; and, after weighing these and the getting round a difficulty; they always like hindrances against the spirit, energy, face it. When a mountain is in the way, and courage of the English ladies, answers they go straight on up the hill, however his own question, and decides agaist their high, and down the other side, however attempting such a tour at present; then, sharp the descent. The present post- with kind misgiving, he suggests that a roads were originally foot-paths, and then, well-chosen and brief excursion in the in their transition state, bridle-roads. companionship of some gentleman to They are kept in order by the compulsory whom Norway is familiar ground, and the labors of the small land-owners, who, Danish language not altogether unknown, sometimes, have the care of only a few might be practicable. Did the “Unproyards of road, every portion specially al- tected Females ” take offense at this limlotted and ticketed; and, if we take into itation of woman's roving and managing account this arrangement, with the oppos- power, and determine to prove to Mr. ing agency of severe winter frosts, and Forester and the world, that “when she violent spring torrents, we may rather will, she will, you may depend on’t ?” wonder that the roads are so good, than They have given their answer to his prolong the complaint of their being the question, and have gone out and returned worst in Europe. The busy hand of home safely, and alone; but after reading modern improvement is now at work on the story of their adventures, it is not imthe high roads of Norway; but still the possible that some who doubted before, chief requirements of the traveler are said may vote him in the right after all. to be a good horse, and good nerves. The The ladies have been waiting for us too cream-colored, thick - maned ponies of long; let us hear their invitation to any Norway, little, sturdy, and sure-footed, who, on reading their book, may wish to may well be trusted. They climb the follow their example,

. mountain side without shirking their duty; and when the driver gives them

"If, reader, you like an unsophisticated their head at the summit, away they go, peasantry, who will receive you as a guest, not

country, inhabited by a fine race of upright at a pace rapid enough to startle the cheat you as a traveler, prepare to follow us veriest Jehu, yet with perfect self-confi- bodily, sharing our hardships and our pleasures, dence and success.

first laying in an immense stock of health, spi

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its, and good temper.

Very few have This naïve confession somewhat surany idea what a country Norway is to attack, prises us. The eschewed gentleman is and the consequences of going off the high road early welcomed. We wonder whether at all. Christiania is 990 miles from London, he spoke afterwards of the nice, well-bred and that is only the beginning of the real jour- ladies that he met on board the Hallande. ney ; new modes of conveyance, a new languages Miss Edgeworth, in one of her inimitable and scanty living are all to come. traveler has been sleeping on hay, ironing his Early Lessons, tells a story of a little boy own clothes, and had nothing but porridge three who saw in a milliner's shop a lady actimes a day for a week, if his spirits, health, quaintance of his mamma's, and who, enand temper' hold out, he has a real good sup- couraged by her smiles and praises, recited ply of them, and is a bona-fide traveler. . We two ladies, having gone before, show how poetry, and told many a nursery story of

which he was the hero; whereupon she practicable the journey must be, though we have found out, and will maintain, that ladies called him “the finest boy she had ever alone get on in traveling much better than with seen in her life,” and “ a very clever little gentlemen : they set about things in a quieter fellow indeed.” The next day Frank manner, and always have their own way; while happened to go with his mother into the men are sure to get into passions, and make cottage of a neighboring washerwoman, rows, if things are not right immediately. and there he met with the maid-servant of Should ladies have no escort with them, then the same lady, who was talking loudly, every one is so civil, and trying of what use they can be; while when there is a gentleman

and holding up to view a muslin gown on of the party, no one thinks of interfering, but which were the marks of dirty shoes, and all take it for granted they are well provided the trace also of a large hole that had for.

been mended. She said that her mistress “The only use of a gentleman in traveling is had told her it was “all done by a little to look after the luggage, and we take care to mischievous, conceited brat of a boy, that have no luggage. The Unprotected,' should she met with in the milliner's shop where never go beyond one portable carpet-bag. This, she was yesterday.” Ah! if ladies only if properly managed, will contain a complete change of every thing; and what is the use of knew what is said of them by some of the more in a country where dress and finery would civilest of their acquaintance! They be in the worst taste? Two water-proof bags, might then learn that a considerate refusal with straps, and no key, (a thing always miss. is sometimes as well liked as the most coring) straw hats which will not blow up, thin dial acceptance. Many a nice, well-bred musquito vails, solid plaid skirts with light Englishman is glad to show his gallantry, polkas, woolen stockings, and hob-nail shoes, and to keep his wraps. are the proper Norwegian accoutrements, with

Modern Christiania, if we except its a light hooded water-proof cloak to go over all, much the same as would be taken for a High- Storthing or Parliament House, its viceland tour ; with the addition of two other things regal residence for the crown prince of -a driving-whip and fishing-rod: the former is Sweden, and its new brick buildings, generally represented by a switch at the Norwe- superseding the time-honored and artistgian posting-houses; and it is the greatest loved wooden houses of the old town, has resource in the world to have the latter to throw few distinctive features. But, piled high into the nearest stream, without the fear of a in its quays, ready for embarkation, are loud · Holloa !' if kept waiting for, or in want of, the products of the magnificent forests of a meal.”—Page 2

the interior. Our travelers went to see the

Falls of the Glommen, and to admire the Thus equipped, the ladies started, and, way in which trees felled far up the counafter visiting Aix-la-Chapelle, Hanover, try, and marked with the names of their Hamburg, and Copenhagen, we find them owners, are brought, by the force of nearing Christiania, and feeling their first running water, to their destined place. Mr. difficulties.

Forester gives the following description

of a similar scene at the Falls of the Nid: “We now entered the Cattegat, which made the vessel dance rather too briskly. Not wishing “The enormous logs, first whirled, fearfully to go down to a dull cabin, yet not being able booming, against the rocks that narrowed the to stand, we lay down on deck, the only Eng- channel, were then hurled over, and plunged lish person on board being a gentlemanly man in the boiling foam below. At the foot of each fortunately, (a well-bred Englishman is a nice fall, a perfect barrier of pines was formed, to thing,) who gave us all his wraps, and kept a which many were added while we stood witlook-out for any hing interesting, that we nessing the struggle. Some, eddying in the might pop up our heads to see it.”—Page 16. whirlpools, seemed destined never to get free;

one almost wondered how any escaped : num- “At Toftemoen, a landlord (great rarity) was bers were broken up, and some never recovered. visible; and, seeing me cast longing looks upon The whole shore below the falls was strewed a flock of geese running about on the green, with the giant bulk disjectaque membra of these said gallantly, “You may have one, if you can spoils of the forest, thus arrested in their pro- catch it,' which process was great fun, and good gress to the sea.

exercise for the feet, as driving had been for the “Felled and sledged to the nearest stream arms all day. I decidedly approve of people during the winter, no sooner is its frozen chan-catching their own goose before eating it. The nel set free by the returning spring, and swelled fat farmer stood laughing at the chase, and, pro• by the influx from the dissolving snow, than nouncing the caught animal the finest of the

the timber, thus left to its fate, begins its long flock, was entrapped into offering to pluck it.” journey. Borne down by the foaming torrents --Pp. 69–71. which lash the base of its native bills, far in the interior; hurried over rapids; taking its on- After staying a few pleasant days at ward course along the shores of winding lakes, Jerkind, our travelers resolved not to go or slowly dropping down in the quiet current forward to Throndhjem, but to diverge of broad rivers; the accumulated mass is from the high road, that they might try brought up at last by a strong boom placed their fortune in desolate places, where across the stream where it discharges itself into

During their passage English ladies, as yet, were unknown. . down the lakes, the pine-logs are collected into Here they are, on their way to the Sogneimmense rafts, curiously framed and pinned to- Fjeld. gether; but so unwieldy and unmanageable are the masses, that but little can be done in “The Vaage-vand, a lovely, deep-green lake, the way of navigation, beyond fending them off lay at the foot of a long hill

, which the pony, the shores and rocks, and keeping them in the perhaps stimulated by the sight of so much recurrent. Some of the timber is said to be two freshing water, insisted on rushing down. Aryears in finding its way to the coast.”

rived at the margin, a messenger was dispatched

immediately for a boat: he was three hours But we must follow our lady guides away, and returned without one. A saddleinto the interior, and see how they get on horse must be taken, and the steep, narrow when—the railway journey to the Miösen- ledge along the face of the rocks followed, invand made, and the lake crossed by stead of the watery way. This was not difficult steamer—they find themselves on the high carried off the sense of its eccentricities ; riding road to Throndhjem, either whisked along and tying was merry work, until fatigue and by a trotting pony, or stopping for rest twilight came on at the same time; then, when at the country stations.

the first overhung the path, it was perfectly

dark; and stumbling over rocks into pools, with “Our public supper over, a ladder led to the the fear of slipping into the lake beneath, and very comfortable beds, from which we were a prospect of seven miles more of the same kind, roused next morning by the water for washing was such dreary work, that for once, we forcibly arriving in a slop-bowl. After sending the felt as if the Providence of the ‘Únprotected good-natured moon-faced maiden to refill it were failing, when through an opening in the twenty times, breakfasting very tolerably, and wood, a boat was seen to shoot suddenly from shaking an unlimited number of hands, a suc- the shore; our guide hallooed, struck a bargain, cession of little cream-colored cobs, changed at carried us down the steep cliff in his arms, and every station, bore us through the valley, whose put us on board in the twinkling of an eye, character became wilder and more Tyrolese waving farewell with a look of satisfaction, each moment. The constant cascades formed which showed he had been more nervous than the most charming road-side variety; any one he acknowledged. Traveler, never start on a of them would have made the fortune of an Eng- by-road late in the afternoon in Norway; the lish watering-place; and there they were tum- peasants have no precise idea of distances, and bling refreshingly down, quite grateful for be are so hardy as to think very little whether the ing sketched. Halting for lunch at Laurgaard, road be rough or smooth beneath their feet.” a plateful of rice-porridge was brought, which, - Page 91. with cream and wild strawberries, made a delicious summer meal. . . . Enjoying the driving, This is bad enough : but worse is to and laughing at the ludicrous harness of the po- come. They are crossing the Sogne-Fjeld. nies, which consisted chiefly of an article on each side of the neck like a flat iron, which “ The mist had now turned to rain, and a jogged up and down in the most fidgety manner, howling wind rushed through the chasm, makI dropped the whip, and, looking behind to tell ing it impossible to hold up an umbrella. Three the boy to pick it up, found the urchin had dis- hours' patient march were gradually nearing the appeared completely, having slily run back, find- sentinel, but also benumbing us through and ing his horse in good hands. So, nervous ladies, through, when the sight of the skeleton of a keep an eye on your coachman.

horse picked remarkably clean by the wolves

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