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pears only in a passive character-seems | highlands which receive and retain, in never to lose sight of herself; her person- lakes or tarns, the more than ordinary al adventures form her chief topic of dis- supply of rain that falls in the country; course; and how she strikes the country and by the quantity of snow, accumulated is a question with her of deeper interest during the greater part of the year, that than "how it strikes a stranger." The the sun of summer melts. Countless protected lady, on the contrary, saved streams thus formed work their way seafrom the consciousness of doing an extra- ward; but they can not find a smooth ordinary thing, has an eye for all that is passage in this land of rocks. Sometimes, beautiful and grand in nature, for all that as with the Rjukan-foss, a heavy volume of is new and interesting in the habits of water forces itself through a narrow those with whom she mingles. Madame chasm, falling several hundred feet into a D'Aunet merely crossed Norway, en route rocky basin, with a loud, hissing sound; to Spitzbergen; but her cursory notes of sometimes there is a series of falls, one travel are full of life and picturesque de- broad surface of rock after another being tail. Before, however, trusting ourselves covered with a white, changeful drapery, to her guidance, or that of the other ladies, and the sound heard being a murmur rawe will give a passing glance at the ther than a roar; often a single thread, general aspect of the country through bright as silver, falls down a steep cliff, which they travelled. connecting the valley below with the fjeld two thousand feet above it, and surprising the observer by its continuity, till, on reaching the spot, he finds how much his eye has been deceived as to its volume and weight.

Another peculiar feature of Norwegian scenery is to be found in its fjords, inlets from the jagged coast to the very heart of the country, that carry there the blue sea, with its tides, and surf, and salt. The Sogne-fjord is a hundred and ten miles in length. Many of these fjords are pent in on either side by perpendicular cliffs, no footway being left at their base. Such is the case with the Näroe-fjord, one of the many ramifications of the Sogne-fjord, of which Professor Forbes speaks as "most desolate, and even terrific." He says:

The Norway of our childhood, as represented on ordinary maps, is remarkable chiefly for a long continuous range of hills, dividing it from Sweden, and extending from the Naes in the south to the North Cape. But a truer notion would be given by omitting this backbone, and substituting for it something resembling the shagreen covering of certain kinds of fish. The mountains of Norway are neither one connected chain running through an otherwise flat country, nor are they distinct elevations. The whole country is mountainous, and the south especially is distinguished by a series of plateaux, or table-lands, called there "fjelds," more or less connected together, though frequently separated by narrow and deep valleys. The general elevation" My companion had fallen into a deep of these fjelds is fully three thousand feet above the sea; but, rising higher than they, are mountain summits, aiguilles, of which the highest yet measured is said to attain an elevation of eight thousand five hundred feet. Some of the fjelds have well-known names, and are often traversed, as the Sogne-fjeld, the Dovre-fjeld, the Fille-fjeld, and the Hardanger-fjeld; but others have been as yet only imperfectly explored, and among them are glaciers whose peculiarities have still to be described.

It is not for the sake of its fjelds, storm-swept and wild, trackless or at least difficult of passage, that tourists are usually drawn to Norway. It has a strong attraction in its rivers and waterfalls. The abundance of its running water may be accounted for by the flat surface of the

VOL. XLIV.-NO. II

sleep; the air was still, damp, and calm; the oars plashed, with a slow measure, into the deep, black, fathomless abyss of water below, which was bounded on either side by absolute walls of rock, without, in general, the smallest slope of débris at the foot, or space enough any where for a goat to stand; and whose tops, high as they indeed are, seemed higher by being lost in clouds which formed, as it were, a level roof over us, corresponding to the watery floor beneath."

Then there are the forests of Norway; not those only to which her children have been largely indebted for the materials of commerce, but those standing on wilder tracts of country, untroubled as yet by the hand of the feller, where the giants of former generations have fallen and gone to decay, and where many a noble shaft

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deposit of gravel and earth, brought down by water currents; and it is curious to observe how, as soon as the débris has become firm, such banks have been chosen as the sites of little farms. Crops of barley and oats, potatoes and hops, are grown; and among the fruit-trees we find the apple and the cherry. The farms, each belonging to a separate proprietor, are generally so small, that the question occurs how the farmer contrives to get a living. His chief wealth consists in his cattle. Of these he keeps a stock quite disproportioned to the size of his homestead. They are very small, delicatelooking, and dun-colored. When midsummer comes, they are driven from the valleys to the fjelds, where they remain till winter, thriving on the abundant and sweet herbage to be found on these heights during the brief weeks of warm weather. Meantime, every rood at home is closely shorn, and hay is made on each open patch, or sunny nook, or earth-covered ledge of rock.

more than a hundred feet in height still rears its stately form above a thick undergrowth of lesser trees. None of us doubts of the abundance of pine to be seen in Norway, especially those kinds commonly known as Scotch and spruce firs, that furnish the red and white deals and timber of our builders: but it is pleasant to know that the woods of Norway are not altogether monotonous; but that, fringing many a ravine and watercourse, may be seen the varied foliage of the birch, alder, and ash. On the shore of the Skaggerack, even oaks are not uncommon; and farther north, the graceful branches of the wych-elm, and the full, rich, rounded form of the sycamore, add to the beauty of the landscape. The aspen is common, enlivening the woods with its smooth white bark and delicate leaves, which, in rocky declivities, change early to a bright yellow. The limit of the pine growth is about 2900 feet; but the birch climbs higher up, clothing the gray cliffs with verdure to the height of 3300 feet. Still higher, a stunted willow and the ju The people of Norway, a country twice niper are found; and when these plants as large as England and Wales, are so cease to grow, a creeping dwarf birch, sparsely scattered over its surface, that, about six inches high, with reindeer moss, in all, their number is only half that of succeeds, and, clinging to the cold moun- London; yet even that population is retain side, more than pays back in cheerful dundant, and annually seeks relief by embeauty what it gathers of scanty nourish- igration. Few settlers from other counment. Nor must we think of Norway as tries are allured to its shores. Even its nearly destitute of flowers. Not only are sunniest valleys offer little temptation to roses, lilacs, and other flowering shrubs the generality of emigrants-men whose grown in gardens in the neighborhood of characteristic is to prefer the bare chance Christiania, but, passing through the of wealth to the certainty of competence. tangled thickets of the south, one lights Norway was an almost untraveled counon sunny glades made beautiful by patches of delicate blue pansies, or yellow violets. Beds of lily of the valley nestling in some shady copse are not infrequent, and the forget-me-not is still more common; while the edges of corn-fields are often decked with a profusion of wild flowers-conspicuous among them the showy foxglove and monkshood.

The dals or valleys of Norway form a striking contrast to its highlands. They are cultivated and fruitful. In a country where the general surface consists of elevated and barren table land, (the proportion of arable land to the whole extent of Norway is not, according to Professor Munch, more than one to ten,) it will be readily believed that industrious and intelligent land-owners turn to account every available spot of earth. In some places banks have been formed consisting of a

sry previous to the present century; and it is only within the last few years that it has been visited by the ordinary tourist. Being the highway to nothing but the North Pole, it was long before many cared to cross its stony, ice-cold heights. Men of science to study its geology, and examine its glaciers; artists to sketch its wonderful scenery, and to catch the glow of its matchless summer evenings; anglers to seek its trout as large as salmon, and its salmon larger than belief; these were its occasional visitors; but now long-vacation barristers, Oxford and Cambridge students, and even unprotected females, consider it open ground. Generally speaking, their travels are confined to South Norway, few venturing upon that long and narrow slip of country that lies above the Throndjhems-fjord, and mostly within the Arctic Circle.

South-Norway contains the three cities of the kingdom, situated relatively to each other like the feet and the pivot of a partially opened pair of compasses. Bergen and Christiania are nearly in the same latitude, on opposite sides of the country. Throndjhem (pronounced Tronyem) and Christiania differ little as to longitude; but the former is more than three degrees farther north than the other cities. The roads which lie between-for they can scarcely be said to connect these three cities-are so difficult of passage, that a few years ago it was a rare thing to meet with an inhabitant of Bergen who had even visited the modern capital; and an Englishman who had crossed the intervening fjelds and fjords. was thought to have performed a marvelous feat. Although a railway now conveys the traveler from Christiania to the Miosen-vand, and a steamer plies on that lake, yet, to proceed further, he must commit himself to the native carriole, occasionally forsaking that for the saddle, and often putting himself, his carriage, and his horse, on board small flat-bottomed skiffs. The road-makers of Norway have no idea of getting round a difficulty; they always face it. When a mountain is in the way, they go straight on up the hill, however high, and down the other side, however sharp the descent. The present postroads were originally foot-paths, and then, in their transition state, bridle-roads. They are kept in order by the compulsory labors of the small land-owners, who, sometimes, have the care of only a few yards of road, every portion specially allotted and ticketed; and, if we take into account this arrangement, with the opposing agency of severe winter frosts, and violent spring torrents, we may rather wonder that the roads are so good, than prolong the complaint of their being the worst in Europe. The busy hand of modern improvement is now at work on the high roads of Norway; but still the chief requirements of the traveler are said to be a good horse, and good nerves. The cream-colored, thick-maned ponies of Norway, little, sturdy, and sure-footed, may well be trusted. They climb the mountain side without shirking their duty; and when the driver gives them their head at the summit, away they go, at a pace rapid enough to startle the veriest Jehu, yet with perfect self-confidence and success.

It must be remembered that the Nor way carriole is adapted for one traveler only, and that it gives no protection i case of rain. There is a kind of gig that will seat two persons, but this is not to be procured except at the larger towns. It is customary for travelers to purchase their own conveyance, and to sell it again when its work is done. Those who decline this arrangement, and prefer trusting to chance of travel, must expect to be treated sometimes to light carts instead of carrioles: these are simply square deal boxes, roughly put together. As they are placed on low wheels, and not furnished with springs, it may well be imagined that the jolting is all but insufferable.

About four years ago an experienced Norwegian traveler asked the question, and asked it in print: "How far is it practicable for ladies to travel in Norway ?" He dwells on the difficulties of an extensive trip-say of four or five hundred miles-especially naming the open vehicle, no larger than a park-chaise, the uncertainty of the climate, the scarcity of good accommodation on unfrequented roads; and, after weighing these and the like hindrances against the spirit, energy, and courage of the English ladies, answers his own question, and decides agaist their attempting such a tour at present; then, with kind misgiving, he suggests that a well-chosen and brief excursion in the companionship of some gentleman to whom Norway is familiar ground, and the Danish language not altogether unknown, might be practicable. Did the "Unprotected Females" take offense at this limitation of woman's roving and managing power, and determine to prove to Mr. Forester and the world, that "when she will, she will, you may depend on't?" They have given their answer to his question, and have gone out and returned home safely, and alone; but after reading the story of their adventures, it is not impossible that some who doubted before, may vote him in the right after all.

The ladies have been waiting for us too long; let us hear their invitation to any who, on reading their book, may wish to follow their example.

"If, reader, you like an unsophisticated peasantry, who will receive you as a guest, not country, inhabited by a fine race of upright cheat you as a traveler, prepare to follow us bodily, sharing our hardships and our pleasures, first laying in an immense stock of health, spi

its, and good temper. Very few have This naïve confession somewhat surany idea what a country Norway is to attack, prises us. The eschewed gentleman is and the consequences of going off the high road early welcomed. We wonder whether at all. Christiania is 990 miles from London, he spoke afterwards of the nice, well-bred and that is only the beginning of the real jour- ladies that he met on board the Hallande. ney; new modes of conveyance, a new language, Miss Edgeworth, in one of her inimitable and scanty living are all to come. And when a traveler has been sleeping on hay, ironing his Early Lessons, tells a story of a little boy own clothes, and had nothing but porridge three who saw in a milliner's shop a lady actimes a day for a week, if his spirits, health, quaintance of his mamma's, and who, enand temper hold out, he has a real good sup-couraged by her smiles and praises, recited ply of them, and is a bona-fide traveler.. We two ladies, having gone before, show how practicable the journey must be, though we have found out, and will maintain, that ladies alone get on in traveling much better than with gentlemen: they set about things in a quieter manner, and always have their own way; while men are sure to get into passions, and make rows, if things are not right immediately. Should ladies have no escort with them, then every one is so civil, and trying of what use they can be; while when there is a gentleman of the party, no one thinks of interfering, but all take it for granted they are well provided

for.

"The only use of a gentleman in traveling is to look after the luggage, and we take care to have no luggage. The Unprotected,' should never go beyond one portable carpet-bag. This, if properly managed, will contain a complete change of every thing; and what is the use of more in a country where dress and finery would be in the worst taste? Two water-proof bags, with straps, and no key, (a thing always miss ing,) straw hats which will not blow up, thin musquito vails, solid plaid skirts with light polkas, woolen stockings, and hob-nail shoes, are the proper Norwegian accoutrements, with a light hooded water-proof cloak to go over all, much the same as would be taken for a Highland tour; with the addition of two other things -a driving-whip and fishing-rod: the former is generally represented by a switch at the Norwegian posting-houses; and it is the greatest resource in the world to have the latter to throw into the nearest stream, without the fear of a loud Holloa!' if kept waiting for, or in want of,

a meal."-Page 2.

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poetry, and told many a nursery story of which he was the hero; whereupon she called him "the finest boy she had ever seen in her life," and "a very clever little fellow indeed." The next day Frank happened to go with his mother into the cottage of a neighboring washerwoman, and there he met with the maid-servant of the same lady, who was talking loudly, and holding up to view a muslin gown on which were the marks of dirty shoes, and the trace also of a large hole that had been mended. She said that her mistress had told her it was "all done by a little mischievous, conceited brat of a boy, that she met with in the milliner's shop where she was yesterday." Ah! if ladies only knew what is said of them by some of the civilest of their acquaintance! They might then learn that a considerate refusal is sometimes as well liked as the most cordial acceptance. Many a nice, well-bred Englishman is glad to show his gallantry, and to keep his wraps.

Modern Christiania, if we except its Storthing or Parliament House, its viceregal residence for the crown prince of Sweden, and its new brick buildings, superseding the time-honored and artistloved wooden houses of the old town, has few distinctive features. But, piled high in its quays, ready for embarkation, are the products of the magnificent forests of the interior. Our travelers went to see the Falls of the Glommen, and to admire the way in which trees felled far up the country, and marked with the names of their owners, are brought, by the force of running water, to their destined place. Mr. Forester gives the following description of a similar scene at the Falls of the Nid:

"The enormous logs, first whirled, fearfully booming, against the rocks that narrowed the channel, were then hurled over, and plunged in the boiling foam below. At the foot of each fall, a perfect barrier of pines was formed, to which many were added while we stood witnessing the struggle. Some, eddying in the whirlpools, seemed destined never to get free;

one almost wondered how any escaped: numbers were broken up, and some never recovered. The whole shore below the falls was strewed with the giant bulk disjectaque membra of these spoils of the forest, thus arrested in their progress to the sea.

"At Toftemoen, a landlord (great rarity) was visible; and, seeing me cast longing looks upon a flock of geese running about on the green, said gallantly, 'You may have one, if you can catch it,' which process was great fun, and good exercise for the feet, as driving had been for the arms all day. I decidedly approve of people

fat farmer stood laughing at the chase, and, pronouncing the caught animal the finest of the flock, was entrapped into offering to pluck it." -Pp. 69-71.

"Felled and sledged to the nearest stream during the winter, no sooner is its frozen chan-catching their own goose before eating it. The nel set free by the returning spring, and swelled by the influx from the dissolving snow, than the timber, thus left to its fate, begins its long journey. Borne down by the foaming torrents which lash the base of its native hills, far in the interior; hurried over rapids; taking its onward course along the shores of winding lakes, or slowly dropping down in the quiet current of broad rivers; the accumulated mass is brought up at last by a strong boom placed across the stream where it discharges itself into navigable waters. . . . During their passage down the lakes, the pine-logs are collected into immense rafts, curiously framed and pinned together; but so unwieldy and unmanageable are the masses, that but little can be done in the way of navigation, beyond fending them off the shores and rocks, and keeping them in the current. Some of the timber is said to be two years in finding its way to the coast."

But we must follow our lady guides into the interior, and see how they get on when the railway journey to the Miösenvand made, and the lake crossed by steamer-they find themselves on the high road to Throndhjem, either whisked along by a trotting pony, or stopping for rest at the country stations.

After staying a few pleasant days at Jerkind, our travelers resolved not to go forward to Throndhjem, but to diverge from the high road, that they might try their fortune in desolate places, where English ladies, as yet, were unknown. Here they are, on their way to the SogneFjeld.

"The Vaage-vand, a lovely, deep-green lake, lay at the foot of a long hill, which the pony, perhaps stimulated by the sight of so much refreshing water, insisted on rushing down. Arrived at the margin, a messenger was dispatched immediately for a boat: he was three hours away, and returned without one. A saddlehorse must be taken, and the steep, narrow ledge along the face of the rocks followed, instead of the watery way. This was not difficult carried off the sense of its eccentricities; riding in full daylight; the novelty of the position and tying was merry work, until fatigue and twilight came on at the same time; then, when the first overhung the path, it was perfectly dark; and stumbling over rocks into pools, with the fear of slipping into the lake beneath, and a prospect of seven miles more of the same kind, was such dreary work, that for once, we forcibly felt as if the Providence of the 'Unprotected' were failing, when through an opening in the wood, a boat was seen to shoot suddenly from the shore; our guide hallooed, struck a bargain, carried us down the steep cliff in his arms, and put us on board in the twinkling of an eye, waving farewell with a look of satisfaction, which showed he had been more nervous than he acknowledged. Traveler, never start on a

"Our public supper over, a ladder led to the very comfortable beds, from which we were roused next morning by the water for washing arriving in a slop-bowl. After sending the good-natured moon-faced maiden to refill it twenty times, breakfasting very tolerably, and shaking an unlimited number of hands, a succession of little cream-colored cobs, changed at every station, bore us through the valley, whose character became wilder and more Tyrolese each moment. The constant cascades formed the most charming road-side variety; any one of them would have made the fortune of an Eng-by-road late in the afternoon in Norway; the lish watering-place; and there they were tumbling refreshingly down, quite grateful for being sketched. Halting for lunch at Laurgaard, a plateful of rice-porridge was brought, which, with cream and wild strawberries, made a delicious summer meal. . . . Enjoying the driving, and laughing at the ludicrous harness of the ponies, which consisted chiefly of an article on each side of the neck like a flat iron, which jogged up and down in the most fidgety manner, I dropped the whip, and, looking behind to tell the boy to pick it up, found the urchin had disappeared completely, having slily run back, finding his horse in good hands. So, nervous ladies, keep an eye on your coachman.

peasants have no precise idea of distances, and are so hardy as to think very little whether the road be rough or smooth beneath their feet." -Page 91.

This is bad enough: but worse is to come. They are crossing the Sogne-Fjeld.

"The mist had now turned to rain, and a howling wind rushed through the chasm, making it impossible to hold up an umbrella. Three hours' patient march were gradually nearing the sentinel, but also benumbing us through and through, when the sight of the skeleton of a horse picked remarkably clean by the wolves

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