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was rather benumbing to our spirits. We were caresses by the girls who have the charge quite surprised at our guides now proposing to of them ; a spoonful of salt is given, as a halt and have dinner, without the slightest treat, to each, and then the business of shelter from the pouring rain ; and of all the dreary things I can possibly imagine, it was our

milking commences, after which the mixalighting in a bog, without a spot to sit down ed herd dispose themselves in groups on on; undoing our packages with frozen fingers, the ground around the sæter. But withdrenched to the skin, and in company with a in the house itself there is seldom any skeleton. . . . For hours, first in, then out of comfort. The chief apartment often has water, sharp frozen snow drifting in our faces, a moist, muddy floor; and when a tolera-s our curdled blood merely kept uncongealed by bly dry corner is found, and a soft, frahard exercise, vista after vista of peak, peak; grant bed of fresh juniper boughs is pre

, , we felt at last as if placed outside the world, the pared, the hospitable people insist on addrolling clouds closing in upon us; and when ing sheep-skins and woolen rugs, which naught but a field of snow lay visible beneath, those who have once slept under seldom all track effaced, our hearts turned pale within wish to try again. Then, supposing rest us. The horses trembled violently; the only secured, there comes the question of food. sound was a low distant howl; to remain still Dairy produce in abundance-milk, cream, was death. Seizing each the arm of a guide, we butter, cheese—is at the traveler's serpushed forward in the direction that our path vice ; also plenty of flad-brödd, a thin cake should lie. . . . Ten hours in reality, but a lifetime in emotion, had passed from the last of rye-meal; but no kind of animal food, little mound of turf we had left till we alighted often not an egg, nor the all but univerbefore a similar one, and were received by a sal dried salmon. Oatmeal porridge, or woman. The crackle of the fire was almost too stir-about, is the unfailing resource of the friendly in the sudden transition, and like a Norwegian traveler : but alas ! he may friend's kindness brought tears to our eyes, in grow tried with “ the prodigal excess of which the pent-up feelings found vent. Porridge too familiar happiness." It must be a and a bonne-bouche of coffee." Unfortunately it very different thing to see it brought for was impossible to pass the night in the cabin, a

the twenty-first time in one week, and to long table being the only available bed; so, eat it, as George Stephenson loved to eat mounting again before darkness came on, we it, once a year—a dainty dish, prepared wound down the valley to Optuen. It was hard by his own hand, in the elegant home of work putting on half-dried clothes, and facing his old age. But let us accompany the the rain again. Having now no impulse to keep ladies on their visits to one or two happy us up, these last two hours of jogging down the circles in the more civilized parts of Norstony hill with stiffened limbs were very painful. Next came one of the real hardships of way: Norwegian travel : arriving, after twelve such hours, at a halting-place, not only divested of

“The interior of the house" (they are visitevery comfort, but containing such an accumu- ing a pastor) “ had an air of unpretending comlation of filth that there was not one spot left fort, and the pictures on the walls, of subjects to throw one's weary body down to rest. Such from Goldsmith's Deserted Village, had å rea house was the farm at Optuen ; a gaunt peasant fined effect; though almost any room that was in rags, the most slovenly of women, with elf- furnished would have appeared luxuriously locked children rolling in sheep-skins on the Eastern in our eyes. On the table was an tloor, were its tenants; and on remonstrating illustrated edition of Longfellow's Poems. A with the guides for not selecting a better halting piano graced the room, which, on its first arplace, they exclaimed that this was the very rival, had been the wonder of the peasant neighbest of the district, and as such had been chosen

borhood. .. Farm-buildings stretched out for the crown prince to pass the night at, in his at the back of the house, and there was a depassage over the Fjeld.”-Pp. 115–121. pendent sæter high up in the mountains. In

another building the whole process of clothes

making was going on, the nearest town being The ladies took a peep at life among 180 miles off, too far for shopping. The wool the sceters, or mountain farms. This life, of the priest's own sheep was spun by a buxom as we learn from many travelers, has a maiden, dressed herself in good broad-cloth of forbidding, as well as an attractive and her own make; on the loom was a comfortable picturesque aspect. It must be a pretty linsey - Woolsey, striped with red, preparing sight each evening when the flocks, scat- against winter wear ; while a tasteful chocolate tered during the day, return, announcing just finished for the priestinn's best dress, who

and white gown, of a much finer make, was their coming by the tinkling bells fasten- was at the moment clad in a lilac homespun of ed to their necks. Sheep, goats, and the strongest linen—a capital material, which cows, are all met with kind words and / was at one time the fashion at Paris, under the



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name of coutil. In the next room two tailors moldings and inserted mirrors. Real ivy trainwere busy working at the priest's and house- ed between the folding-doors, by its refreshing hold's coats, of substantial cloth, also spun by green made a beautiful relief to the eyes: some the maiden. The voyage of discovery was com- statues, pictures, and a profusion of lady's empleted by making the entire tour of the pre- broidery, were the ornaments. The tea-service mises in a pretty little plaything of their son was silver, and of modern style; the china of Christopher's, a miniature sledge, pushed by fine Staffordshire. Some time after tea, which himself, to make him hardy and strong in the was of the best kind, the daughter handed

A choice Norwegian supper had been round a tray of different preserved fruits, with prepared by his mother's fair fingers-preserv- a great many spoons in a tumbler of water; ed fruits and fresh rusks. Intellectual conver- each guest was to take a spoon and a mouthful sation, with a feeling of confidence, as if we of the nearest preserve, then a fresh spoon for were old friends, yet knowing we should never the next kind, putting the used spoon in water, meet again, made it difficult to part, and short and so on till all the fruits were tasted, and a en that strange, sweet sensation of being so re- handful of sugar-plums finished the course. ceived without a question asked.”—Pp. 134-6. The lady was intensely curious about

the various parts of Norway and the ways of The other interior is that of a gentle- the people, knowing far less of them than of the man's family living near Bergen.

rest of the world. Our kind hostess used

every persuasion to induce us to stay to see “Seeking for a spot to rest on, we peeped in her husband, not yet returned from his countat the open gates of a garden surrounding a ing-house, who would delight in speaking Engpretty house, whose rustic chairs were inviting- lish, offering us beds to stop all night, and only ly placed on a grassy hillock. A lady in a permitting us to go on the promise of another straw hat was watering her flowers, and look- visit. Nothing but a very pressing engagement ing up, instantly advanced, extending her hand took us away that evening, we felt so happy with the most winning smile, saying: 'Wilkom- and at home amidst all the quiet hospitality men til Bergen.' After such a reception it was with its easy simplicity; and on seeing the easy enough to explain what we wished; and, lady's husband afterwards, we found him quite seated in an arbor, I drew the distant town equal to his wife. I never met with so much amid roses and shrubs, my willing fingers real good breeding as in Norway.”—Pp. 159– marking the intricacies almost of their own ac- 164. cord; such a facilitator is kindness to every action in life! The lady said she would not look While in Tellemarken, the ladies visitover me, but go in and prepare a cup of tea. ed the church of Hitterdal, the delight of All the rich merchants have their country the inhabitants of that district, and the houses near the town, standing in gardens just like English ones, only the turf is not so fine : largest of the remaining curious old there is no turf kept like that of England on the wooden churches of Norway. whole Continent. When the sun had sunk into the distant fjord, the lady reäppeared, dressed “In the style somewhat of its sister of Borelegantly, yet plainly, in the modern style, gund, but still more thickly covered with scales, without exaggeration; a pretty fawn-colored it rises, bee-hive upon bee-hive, till a primmer, silk dress, and a cap with pink ribbons, for she quainter, little edifice can not be imagined. It was a young matron. She said all was ready. took me seven hourş, in a hot sun, to sketch it Chatting round the tea-table, we found that our slightly; and, like every thing else in Tellefair hostess was the wife of the principal mer marken, is like nothing else in the world. The chant and banker of Bergen, loved the English, interior was left unaltered till it began to crumand spoke their language well, besides German ble down, and now has been restored very pretand French, which her three children were be- tily with different colored woods, in character ginning to pronounce also. The pretty daugh- with the edifice.”—Page 241. ter, Sidonia, just fifteen, had made her debût at the ball given by the prince a few days before; The lady's estimate of the value of the her two sons, Oscar and Halburt, were younger, restoring hand differs from that of certain and, though full of spirits. behaved like gentlemen's sons, and were quite under her control. gentleman-tourists who visited Hitterdal We noticed the deep respect of all children in during the same season. They complain presence of their parents throughout Norway. of the blocking up of the beautiful exter

The house was of wood, painted white, nal gallery, of the removal of what was and surrounded by a verandah twined with antique, and the entire failure of every at- creeping plants, partly inclosed by glass. In- tempt to imitate the original plan. The side, the rooms were moderately spacious, with church of Borgund, in the wild valley of polished floors, not carpeted in summer or win the Leir, surpasses that of Hitterdal in inter; only rugs were laid for the feet of the sofas and tables. The furniture in the draw- terest; but the only one of these ancient ing-rooms was of dark, carved wood, very pret- churches that has any claim to beauty, as ty against the white walls, with plain gold well as to quaintness, is the little church


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of Urnes. Much of its rich woodworktion should read Professor Forbes's work has been replaced by plain timbers; but on Norway and its Glaciers. It is full of inon roof, door, and panel are still to be terest, and exhibits the characteristic causeen the remains of Runic carving; that tion of the philosopher and the Scotchman. tracery of entwined dragons, foliage, and To make a selection is difficult where figures, characteristic of the eleventh and much is inviting. We feel as we have twelfth centuries, which, in crosses and felt sometimes when walking in a garden tombstones, is still to be found in Scot- where many flowers of varied forms and land and Ireland, as well as Scandinavia. tints appeal to our sense of the beautiful : The capitals of its pillars, and the general we wish to gather two or three, types of character of its moldings, correspond, the rest, to give to a friend; but when too, with the details of our own Norman our choice is made and the flowers are in architecture, allowance being made for our hand, we look again to the bed where the difference of the materials employed. they grew, and fear that, after all, we Of our contemporary wooden churches, have left the best unplucked. the little one of East-Greenstead, in Essex, Passing through Denmark, Madame is the only remaining specimen, decay or D'Aunet pays this warm tribute to the fire having destroyed the rest. The church memory of Christian IV.: at Urnes stands on a headland, three or four hundred feet above the blue waters shows to have been truly great, yet whose fame

“He was one of those kings whom history of the Sogne-fjord, beyond which stretch-has scarcely spread beyond the narrow limits es a fertile valley, dotted with pleasant of their own kingdom. It was his lot to reign homesteads.

during the busy and brilliant seventeenth cenBefore parting with our unprotected tury, when men were too much occupied to refriends, we would


the younger lady, gard what was going on amid the mists of the whose clever pencil has illustrated her North. Had they looked, they would have seen volume so nicely, and whose fluent pen lightened prince

, sparing of his subjects' blood, has so pleasant a dash and sparkle of its lightened prince, sparing of his subjects' blood, own, to leave slang to school-boys, and to of the public revenues. During his long reign spare a little time for the study of syntax. Christian maintained his ground against the A“jolly dinner,” a “smashing pace," and Imperialists, and against Sweden; at one time a “splendid fellow,” are phrases that do he threatened Vienna ; at another, he took Calnot become a lady's lips any more than mar, though it was defended by Gustavus “ scarlet indispensables" grace her per- activity, he was ceaselessly occupied in a variety

Adolphus. Gifted with indefatigable mental son; and, through neglect of the com

of projects. He founded three cities—Christmonest rules of grammer, such a passageiansand, Christianople, and Christianstad; one as the following, respecting the habits of colony-Tranquebar, on the coast of Coromanbears, is not very easily understood : del: he rebuilt the capital of Norway, giving to

it its modern name of Christiania. At Copen“Before leaving their snow-holes, where they hagen he appointed professorships for the inbury themselves for the winter, going in fat and struction of the people, and founded a navigacoming out thin, and on first waking from their tion-school, rendered necessary by the jagged long sleep, they are so weak as to be no sport and dangerous coast of Jutland ;. he set up the at all, letting themselves be drowsily killed ; | first cannon foundry in Denmark, and he imbut after having been out a little, stretched, proved the condition of silk and cloth manufacbreakfasted, and on the look-out for lunch, are tures throughout his kingdom. He expelled most savage and dangerous.”—Page 219. the Jesuits from Denmark, and afforded pro

tection to men of science. Unfortunately for Such literary slop-work would scarcely Christian IV., at the time when he was thus be pardonable in a lion-hunter, and is showing how a king ought to reign, the eyes of quite unworthy of a lady's neater hand. Europe were fixed upon Richelieu, and after his

death they were dazzled by the brilliancy of We now turn to the pleasant pages

Louis XIV.; for all this occurred between the of

years 1613 and 1648.”—Page 41. Madame D’Aunet. She writes like a woman of intelligence and cultivation, and It might have been added that, as a with a charming vivacity; so that those youth, Christian IV. was an ardent lover who wish to gain a picturesque acquaint- and diligent student of the sacred Scripance with Norway can not do better than tures; and that, in mature years, he lent follow her guidance; while any who may his aid towards the diffusion of the Divine desire more accurate and scientific informa- word throughout his dominions.

Of the appearance of the people Ma- machine whose head, furnished with a strong, dame D’Aunet says:

sharp blade, cut in pieces, by an even, quiet

movement, bars of copper as large as trunks of “ The Norwegians are particularly healthy trees. Moving about among all these things and robust, the faces of the peasantry are

was a crowd of black, half-dressed men, who, square and fresh-colored; their noses fuit and lighted by the red flames of the furnaces, somewhat turned up; their eyes of a pale blue; looked like the demons of this pandemonium. their hair fine, flaxen, and curling. The little The ceaseless stroke of hammers, the grinding children's heads are covered with that soft, al- of saws, the moaning of wheels, the crackling most white, hair, that recalls to mind those of braziers, the bubbling of melted metal, united little wax figures of the infant Jesus, accompa- to form an indescribable crashing sound; yet nied by a lamb in cotton-wool, that one sees so above all rose the deafening noise of the falling often, under a glass case, in the parlors of our

water!”—Pp. 98–100. French inns. The women are relatively larger than the men, and have so brilliant a complex- the northernmost town in the world,

Between Throndhjem and Hammerfest, ion, that they often appear to be pretty, without having handsome features.

The la- stretches a narrow, mountainous country, dies of Christiania struck me, at first sight, as

seven hundred miles in length, so interpretty, and what is better, agreeable-looking, sected by fjords and short rivers, that notwithstanding two defects which connoisseurs some of the hills are insulated from the in beauty would not pass by lightly-poor mainland, and are almost inaccessible. teeth, and very large ears; but they have a Indeed, the chasms are dazzling complexion, fine hair, and elegant fig. sloping valleys so few, and the encroach

so many, the ures-elegant for the North.”—Pp. 70, 64.

ing waters so obstructive, that people Madame D'Aunet, while staying at gladly avail themselves of the good governThrondhjem, was persuaded to pay a visit ment steamers, and travel by sea. The

coast is full of picturesque interest, espe

of the Leerfoss, on the river Nid. She says: cially after reaching Torghattan. In its

jutting headlands, deep inlets, and irre“I set out early in the morning, in spite of a gular breakwater of islands, it much resmall, fine, cold rain, of evil augury. Around sembles the scenery of Inverness and Throndhjem the roads are made after the Rus- Argyleshire. But Norway can boast of sian fashion, of fir-tree trunks, laid side by side, more verdure; her woods touch the waforming an uneven, rugged carriage-way. As ter's edge; the faithful birch especially the trees are not even squared, one has to put fringing mountain foot and feathering its up with the roughest jolting; and in places height. For Highland heather, Norway where they have become rotten, the road resembles a quagmire, and what was before fa- has its mosses-green, brown, and red. tiguing, now becomes positively dangerous. During the brief summer, grass grows When we reach Leerfoss, the sight of the fall luxuriantly, and is of the freshest, brightrepays us for our preliminary joltings. Figure est green, and ample, quick-springing to yourself a whole river falling in a single crops repay the cultivating hand. But sheet, eighty feet in depth ; and then breaking the peasantry make little provision for the over black, basaltic rocks, among which its waters boil and foam in mighty wrath. The long and rigorous winter; and so the unpassionless rocks lift up their rounded, shining happy, horses and cattle are fed then backs, and look like large fishes sleeping on the partly on dried birch leaves, but chiefly sand. Under this peaceful seeming they offer on seaweed and the boiled heads of fish! so strong a resistance to the falling river that it There are but three provinces in Northmust needs divide its waters into many little ern Norway, and only a scanty population. streams that pụrsue their tossed and troubled All its congregated life is to be found on way for some hundreds of paces: then all be the sea-coast, or on the sides of its fjords. comes calm, the river finds a new bed, and re- To the little villages that with their redsumes its tranquil flow.

“At the edge of the river, and just below the tiled roofs and cheery smoke enliven the falls, a copper foundry has been established. bases of the gray cliffs, the passing of the The great wheels of the machinery are turned steamer that tells of welcome summer, by the rushing water, man having employed its and friendly greetings, and pleasant force, and made its fury serviceable. I visited strangers, is a most delightful event.

Out the foundry. I saw all those frightful moving come old and young, dressed in their best, machines, creatures of man's making, as power and many a long-projected visit is made ful and formidable as the most terrible living monsters. I can not describe the various kinds to the neighboring station, ten or twelve of saws, wheels, cogs, and hammers, that were leagues away. there. What terrified me most was a dreadful T'he sailors of Norway are skillful and trustworthy, as men should be who under- carpenters; and, at need, shoemakers and take to guide their fellows through such tailors. Besides good clothes and a fair supply a labyrinth of obvious and hidden dangers. valuables, as lace, neckerchiefs, and trinkets, Madame D’Aunet's voyage was made safely. She thus sketches her temporary their fathers; and then in every house we see,

brought for them from the nearest town, by home in the little inn at Hammerfest :

reverentially laid on a scrap of carpet, that

large volume—the poor man's library-the book “ The apartment of honor, reserved for me, that surpasses all others, and makes up for their had two divisions, each of eight feet square ; absence--the book of books--the Bible; and the ceiling was so low that I could touch it with every little child, when asked by its mother, is my hand. It was clear that the architect had able to read a verse. Sweet and peaceful life! only made provision for Laplanders. The fur- calm, pure, and equable, like the blue sky of niture was limited to the smallest possible the North ! how might wearied hearts en vy so quantity-a table, two wooden arm-chairs, and stormless a repose! As Luther says, Invidco à bed in which plain boards formed a strange quia quiescunt.'”—Page 70. contrast with the softest eider-down. The traveler is at liberty to drive nails into the wall; It is a pity that this pleasing picture of and it is his only way of making up for the ab- a family Bible in every house is not quite sence of wardrobes. The windows and door true to life. To a traveler from Roman were very small—the windows about three feet Catholic France, doubtless its frequency high, and the door about five; so that I could not look out without taking off my bonnet, nor would be a subject of remark; but tiil leave the room without stooping. Then the in- lately the supply of Bibles was grievously habitants are so fond of light that they will not inadequate to the wants of the population; hang up curtains to shut it out. Thus, during and though, thanks to the Christiania the summer, one must either submit to a per- press, and to the British and Foreign Bipetual glare, or produce a factitious shade by ble Society, there is now a change for the the help of your own shawls and cloaks, hung better, yet those who love the Bible, and up before the windows. Although I had re who love mankind, have still a great work course to this expedient, yet I could not reconcile myself to these unending days. They made me to do in Norway. Dr. Paterson, who restless and uneasy.

The common order of visited that country in 1832, under the things seemed to be upset. I rose at midday; direction of the British and Foreign Bi. I dined at eleven o'clock at night; I went out to ble Society, met with a warm welcome, walk at two in the morning. I never knew and an open field for exertion. He was when to get up, or when to go to bed, and the means of stimulating the energies of sleep became almost impossible. (The inbabit: the Norwegian Bible Society, and of setants of these high latitudes often work by night ting on foot several new agencies in conto avoid the sultry heat of noon. They say that there will be time enough to sleep next nection with the Society for which he winter.) If there were neither calendar nor traveled. At Throndhjem, Bergen, Stavwatch at Hammerfest, it would be easy to lose a anger, and Christiansand, he was aided by sense of time, and one might soon be a fort-warm-hearted and intelligent Christian night before or after the rest of the world, with friends; and at every place the demand out having perceived the gradual change. The for Bibles was larger than could be met diet here did not border on luxury. Where you are badly lodged, you are likely to be by help from Christiania and from Lonworse fed; and the monotony of our bill of fare don. Busy, commercial Bergen, espewas not its worst fault. Veal and salmon cially, he found to possess facilities for a formed the staple supply. Soups alternated very wide distribution of the sacred between barley à la sliced lemon, and rye à lo Scriptures, as it commands the whole dried cherries. On gala days we had potatoes, coast from Stavanger to the North Cape, roasted rein-deer, and milk.'

and is visited thrice a year by the boats We shall not follow Madame D’Aunet the Loffoden Isles.

that are engaged in the cod fisheries of to Spitzbergen, as the work of a more recent traveler, Lord Dufferin, has been made by Mr. Knolleke. the assistant

In the year 1854, a similar visit was lately noticed by us: but we must make foreign secretary of the Bible Society, and room for one more extract, regarding the with still more favorable results; so that farm life of Norway.

while, during the twenty-five years pre" The woman spin linen and hemp, weave ceding Mr. Knolleke's visit, the Bible Sothem into cloth, and manufacture the strong and ciety supplied Norway with 100,000 copies coarse wadmel worn by the men. The men of the Scriptures, in one year since that are, by turns, laborers, siniths, masons and time 25,000 have been distributed.

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