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Juda, art not the least among the princes of Juda, for out of thee shall come a governor that shall rule my people Israel." (Matt., ii., 6.) Here, probably in the very place covered by the church-unquestionably in Bethlehem-was born the adorable Saviour of the world, who brought life and immortality to light. Here he was cradled in the manger, and was worshipped by the wise men, who were guided by "the star that went before them, till it came and stood over where the young child was." What stupendous events, what immense interests, what revolutions in the present and eternal destinies of our human race, were here brought into their embryo existence! What lights, what new ideas, what bright hopes, have gone forth from Bethlehem, to illuminate and purify the nations of the earth!" Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good-will towards men."

At a little distance to the left of the Jerusalem road is the tomb of Rachel. It is a modern, quadrangular, Turkish structure, surmounted by a dome, and whitewashed; still there can be little doubt that it marks the place where "Rachel died, and was buried in the way to Ephrath, which is Bethlehem. And Jacob set a pillar on her grave; that is the pillar of Rachel's grave unto this day." (Gen., xxxV., 20.) This was ever a noted landmark in the times of Jewish domination, and tradition may be safely trusted for its identity.

19,

Still ascending towards Jerusalem, with a deep valley upon our right, we approached the Greek Convent of Elias, which is situated at a short distance from the road, on the east. A great number of pilgrims were here feeding their horses and loitering about the convent and its approaches. It is half way between Jerusalem and Bethlehem; and the pilgrims, who are constantly passing this road in great numbers at this season of the year, stop here for refreshment or lodging, this, like the other monasteries, serving, on such occasions, instead of a hotel. This is a broken, mountain

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VALLEY OF REPHAIM, ETC.

ous region. Indeed, the whole country, from far beyond Hebron, is a continuous mountain, diversified with hills and valleys, but always at a very great elevation-probably not much less than two thousand feet-above the level of the The land is less fertile and worse cultivated than it is around Bethlehem, though still mostly occupied with ploughed fields and pasturage.

sea.

We passed near the country house of Caiaphas, the ruins of which are upon the summit of a hill, to the right of the road. The broad Valley of Rephaim, the field of many sanguinary conflicts, stretches out to the left.

Still nearer to Jerusalem the road runs along the western verge of the Valley of Hinnom, here turning to the east along the southern base of Mount Zion, which slopes very rapidly to the bottom of this deep ravine. We passed the lower pool of Gihon, situated in the bottom of Hinnom, and the aqueduct which conveys the water from Solomon's Pools across this valley. The Jaffa, or Bethlehem Gate, was now nearly opposite to us, and, descending by a steep and rough path to the bottom of the ravine, and mounting again a very abrupt hill, which rises between it and the city, we entered Jerusalem on its western side.

PERSONAL MATTERS.

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CHAPTER IV.

Personal Matters.-Illness.-Reception by the American Missionaries.-Rev. Messrs. Lanneau and Sherman.-Character of the Missionaries.Favourable Impressions on Travellers.-Rev. Mr. Nicolayson.-American Friends.-Kind Attentions.-Ibrahim.-Holy Week.-Native Christians.-Ceremonies in the Church of the Sepulchre.-Impious Mummeries. Another Scene. - The Holy Fire. Protestant Worship. - A memorable Sacrament on Mount Zion.-My first Walk to the Mount of Olives.-Impressions and Reflections.-View from the Summit.-Olivetrees.The Church of the Ascension.-Scandalous Transaction..French Influence.-Demolition of the Armenian Convent by the Latin Monks.-The Garden of Gethsemane.-Its Identity.-Ancient Olivetrees. Situation of the Garden.- Brook of Cedron.- Mohammedan Cemetery.-Appearance and Employments of the People resorting there. -Return into the City.-Walk around the Walls.-Situation of Jerusalem. The Hill Country.-Environs.-St. Stephen's Gate.-Wall of the Haram. Interesting Remains of Solomon's Temple.-Turkish Repairs. -The Valley of Jehoshaphat.-Massive Stones.-Mount Ophel.-The southern Wall of the City.-Termination of the Aqueduct from Solomon's Pools.-Valley of the Cheesemongers.--Mount Zion.-Valley of the Son of Hinnom.-Western Side of the City.-Valley of Gihon.-The Damascus Gate.-The North Side of the City.-Reservoir.-Return to St. Stephen's Gate.-The present Walls of Jerusalem.-Their Age, Materials, Height, Workmanship, &c.-Gate of St. Stephen.-Damascus Gate.-Jaffa Gate.-Zion Gate.-Circumference of the City.-Its ancient Dimensions.-Promenade upon the Walls.-Jerusalem as a Military Position. The Mountains about the City.-View of the City from the Convent of St. Elias.-View from the Mount of Olives.-Aspect of the different Quarters of the City.-Aspect of its Environs.-Interior of Jerusalem.-Changes of Surface.-Great Accumulations.-Mount Zion within the Walls.-Mount Moriah.-Site of the Temple.-Bezetha.-Mount Akra. Streets of Jerusalem.-Arches.-Covered Bazars.-Pavements and Sidewalks.-Ancient Flagstones.-Houses.-Their Plan and Construction.-Cisterns.-Building Materials.-Dilapidations.- Poverty of the People. Decent Costume.-Trade with the Pilgrims.-Manufactures.-Little Wealth or Capital.

My attention was too much occupied by my own situation to allow me to sympathize with the deeply-interesting scenes with which I was now surrounded, or

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ARRIVAL AT JERUSALEM.

to give scope to the stirring recollections they were so well calculated to excite. The pain in my back, occasioned by my fall the day before, had continued to increase till it was with extreme difficulty that I was able to keep my seat upon the camel, whose every step aggravated my sufferings to positive agony. I was poorly able to leave Bethlehem, but the thought of being confined there by a protracted illness, with which I was seriously threatened, was so unpleasant, that I determined to incur the pain and risk of proceeding to Jerusalem, where, in case of need, I should have the assistance of my fellow-travellers, and, as I hoped, obtain medical advice. I proceeded directly to the house of the American missionaries, where I was cordially welcomed by the Rev. Mr. Lanneau. I descended from my camel, and entered this hospitable mansion by his assistance and that of Ibrahim, and was soon accommodated with a comfortable room and a good bed, luxuries to which I had been a stranger for more than three months, and which were rendered doubly grateful by the necessities of my present situation. I had called at the mission-house a perfect stranger, not knowing what means my countrymen might possess in this distant part of the world for entertaining wayfaring men, and more with a view of inquiring for quarters in the city than with the expectation of finding them here. Mr. Lanneau at once recognised me and addressed me by name. He had occasionally attended on my ministry in Charleston, South Carolina, fifteen years before, and I was received as a friend and Christian brother. God had thus unexpectedly prepared me a restingplace within the walls of his holy city, and I contemplated his merciful protection extended to me, with emotions so strong as to make me forget, for a while, my bodily sufferings.

AMERICAN MISSIONARIES.

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I had here the pleasure of becoming acquainted with the Rev. Mr. Sherman, another excellent missionary of the American board, and his lady. They, with Mr. Lanneau, were compelled to leave Jerusalem the day after my arrival to attend a general meeting of the missionaries in Beyrout. A large re-enforcement of the mission had just arrived from the United States, and this important meeting had been called for the purpose of consultation upon the general interests of the work, and to organize a plan for future and enlarged operations. The board at home leaves a wide discretion to its missionaries, who appear to act on very general instructions, as the varying circumstances of the work and the indications of Providence may direct. No set of men, I am sure, are more worthy of the generous confidence of the churches upon whose errands of mercy they are sent forth. I have accounted it a peculiar happiness to enjoy the society of the missionaries of the board at several of their stations in the Levant, and I gladly bear my testimony to the zeal, faithfulness, ability, and tact with which they prosecute their holy enterprise. I have always had occasion to admire their untiring industry, fervent piety, strong faith, and large, catholic views, and I very much doubt if an equal number of ministers of the Gospel can be found in any part of the world more thoroughly imbued with the spirit of their high calling, or better furnished for the discharge of its duties by intellectual and moral qualifications. They possess, in a high degree, the respect of the Franks settled in the East; and it was truly gratifying to me, as an American and a Christian, to hear the unanimous testimony of travellers in their favour.

Many, I have reason to know, who have gone abroad with no very favourable impressions with regard to

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