Voyage from Beyrout to Smyrna.-Fellow-passengers.-The Cadi of Jeru salem and his Harem.-Oriental Manners.-The Seacoast of Asia Minor. -Islands.-A Turkish Governor on board.-Habits of the Cadi and Pa- cha.-The Grumbling Race.-Arrival at Smyrna.-Grievous Disappoint- ment. Quarantine.-The Seri Pervas.-The allied Fleets.-Splendid Pageant.--Quarters on Shore.-Visit from the Missionaries.-Embarca- tion.-Report of the Plague.-Quarantine in Prospect.-Effect of Evil Tidings on the Orientals and on the Franks.-Voyage to Stamboul.- Lodgings in Pera. -The American Mission.-Illness.-Friends in Need. -Departure for Vienna.-Co-voyagers.-The Black Sea.-Mouths of the Danube.-Aspect of the Shore.-Unhealthiness of the Region.-The Nav- igation of the Danube.-The Steamboats.-Climate.-Turkish Officer.- Fruits of Reform.-The new Costume.-A Circassian Lady.-Her Price. -Her Suite.-A Prescription for Fever.-Quarantine at Orsova.-Sub- lime Scenery.-Ancient Road.-Christianity on the Frontiers of Hun- gary.-Belgrade and Semlin.-Hungarians.-Pest.-Arrival in Vienna.— Severe Illness.-Kindness of Friends.-Grinsing.-Mr. and Mrs. Shauff- ler.-Journey to Munich.-Through Switzerland to Paris.-The English Ꭲ Ꭱ Ꭺ Ꮩ Ꭼ Ꮮ Ꮪ IN EGYPT, ARABIA PETRÆA, AND PALESTINE. CHAPTER I. Petra.- Preliminary Examination.- Mountains about Petra.-The Approach to the City.-Geological Appearances.-Terraces on Mount Hor. -Wady Mousa.-The Valley.-The surrounding Cliffs.-River.-Ruins.-The House of Pharaoh.-Triumphal Arch.-Ruined Temple.Fallen Columns.-Other Ruins.-Private Residences.-Completeness of the Desolation-Causes.-Extent of the Site.-Tombs and Temples excavated in the Mountains.-Their Situation and immense Number.-Approaches to them.-Their various Dimensions and Forms.-Architectural Ornaments.-Exquisite and various Colours of the Mountain exhibited in the Excavations and Ornaments.-A Tomb in Wady Syke.-Difficulty of Description. Mr. Roberts, an English Artist.-Delicate Texture of the Petra Sandstone.-Our Camp in the Ancient Forum.-Bridge.-Colonnade.-Paved Way.-Ruins West of the Forum.-Reservoir.-Excavations in the Eastern Cliff.-Brief Notices of several Tombs.-Sarcophagi.-Great Elevation of the Tombs.-Ruined Staircases.-Aqueducts.— Magnificent Trees.-An Ancient Reservoir.-Unique Excavation.-Descent into an interesting Ravine.-Doric Tomb.-Stairs and Terrace.Beautiful Decorations of the Interior of a Tomb or Temple.-Fluted Columns, Cornice, &c.-Desecration.-Another large Tomb with broken Statues.-Massive Wall across the Ravine.-A Rostrum.-Conduit.Excavations in the Northern Barrier.-Canal in the Eastern Mountain, -Tomb with a Latin Inscription.-Corinthian Tomb.-Splendid Front. -Interior.-Peculiar Style of the adjoining Façade.-Fine Situation.Tomb or Temple in Wady Syke.-Ruined Arches.-Splendid Colouring. -Ancient Theatre.-Dimensions.-Good Preservation.-Strange Situation.-Wady Syke.-Its Dimensions and General Features.-Height of the Cliffs-Luxuriant Vegetation.-The Treasury of Pharaoh.-Splendid Façade. The Interior.-Steps in the Cliff.-Various Aspects of this Edifice as seen from the Syke.-Bedouin Tradition.-Fresh Appearance and delicate Carving of Pharaoh's Treasury.-Farther Notices of the Syke. -Pavement. Canal.—Earthen Pipes.-The Triumphal Arch. - Its Height and Object.-Ascent of the Cliff.-Excavations on the Summit. -Gardens.-Tombs East of the Syke.-Truncated Obelisks.-Three VOL. II.-B 14 ARRIVAL AT PETRA. Pyramidal Tombs.-Tomb of the Couchant Lions.-Bedouin Huts.— Beautiful Sight.-Flocks and Herds. -Tillage.-New and interesting Route.-Appearance of the Mountain.-Ravine North of the Syke.Aqueduct.-Arched Bridge.-Visit to the Temple of El Deir.-The Ascent of the Mountain.- Esplanade.-Description of the Temple.-Its Front.-The Interior.-Probable Uses.-Desecration.-Rain.-Petra not yet fully explored.-Importance and probable Facility of farther Investigations. The Alouins and their Deportment.-Personal Incidents.-Wady Mousa verdant.-Partridges.-Eagles.-Early Origin, Commerce, and Decline of Petra.-Rediscovered by Burckhardt.-Illness in the Desert. APRIL 1. We arrived in Petra March 30, about 1 P.M. From that time I have been constantly employed during the day in examining the ruins of this most wonderful city, but have refrained from attempting any description of them till I should be able to form in my own mind something like a plan or outline of the place, and to effect some arrangement of its most interesting objects. I have examined everything in the valley, and ascended the mountains in different directions to obtain a general notion of the locality; and I have effected all, perhaps, that I shall be able to do in this way, though I still despair of much success in description. Having no special reason, however, for farther postponement, and being confined to my tent by rain, I will write down some of the impressions and observations which belong to the rather unshapely subject. On leaving our last encampment, which proved to be about six hours from Petra, we immediately entered a narrow defile in the mountains, and for near two hours our winding path lay among wild and picturesque masses of gray and red granite, greenstone, and yellow sandstone. These are the mountains which we saw the previous day rising between us and the lofty summits of Mount Hor. The deep ravines are adorned with a rich shrubbery of oleanders, tamarisks, ratim, and the other common shrubs of these regions, which become large and more plentiful as the elevation increases. Grass, also, is more plentiful. Our general direction was northward, but the zigzag path led us successively towards every point of the compass. |