206 SYSTEM OF IRRIGATION. tion here, and presume that for some cause, perhaps to give it rest, the ground was left fallow the present year. In my way from the lower to the upper aqueduct I made a long detour to the right. The plain is sprinkled with the thorny trees already mentioned, which, farther to the right, thicken into a forest-a continuation of that near our camp. In several places I saw old foundations, composed of small, unhewn stones, which probably belonged to some straggling village, or, it may be, to rural cottages, that existed here in times of greater prosperity and security. The soil is composed of sand and gravel, intermixed with clay. It is very hard, and much encumbered with small stones, but of a dark colour, and greater apparent fertility than the fields adjoining our encampment. The upper aqueduct, which crosses the ravine about half a mile above the one already described, is much dilapidated, and has apparently been a long time in disuse. Two of its arches are of solid and beautiful workmanship; but the rest, which were probably supplied in a later and less fortunate age to repair breaches effected by accident or violence, are not only inferior, but decidedly mean and bad in their construction as well as material. This, like the aqueduct below, was built to serve the once prosperous agriculture of the plain of Jericho. I have already mentioned the broken aqueduct over the Jerusalem road, which we passed upon the mountain, just before beginning the descent to the valley. This, also, was doubtless tributary to the fertility of the plain below. Other ruinous aqueducts exist an hour or more farther north, near the base of Mount Quarantina, which were devoted to the same purpose. Taken together, they must have formed, when in successful operation, a splendid system of irrigation, unequalled, perhaps, by anything now in existence; and they point to a degree ANCIENT FERTILITY. 207 of national and individual affluence and civilization almost inconceivable to the traveller of the present day, who finds himself in the midst of a vast arid desert, covered with thorns or incrusted with salt. Still, however, this region sustains its ancient reputation for fertility wherever due care is bestowed upon its cultivation, and to diffusing the indispensable supplies of water over its thirsty soil. Fine crops of barley and wheat are annually harvested around Jericho ; and the smallest degree of industry, with some effectual measures of protection against the Bedouins, on the part of the government, might increase the agricultural products of this region to an indefinite extent. Anciently the plain of Jericho was regarded one of the most fertile in the world, and the language applied to its productions by several Roman writers, and still more that of Josephus, savours even of the marvellous and the supernatural. "He who should pronounce this place to be Divine," says the Jewish historian, "would not be mistaken. It will not be easy to light on any climate in the habitable earth that can well be compared to it, what is here sowed comes up in such clusters."* He ascribes this fertility of the soil partly to the warmth of the climate, but more to irrigation, and expresses a belief that the fountain healed by Elisha possessed, in this respect, special and unequalled virtues. The pointed arches of the aqueducts, which demonstrate their Saracen origin, show that these now desolate plains were adorned with skilful agriculture and exuberant fertility long after the subversion of the Jewish power. It was probably during the brief period subsequent to the early Mohammedan conquests, when the spread of their empire gave some promise of good government and social improvement, that this elaborate. and extensive system of irrigation was perfected. * Wars, book iv., chap. viii., sect. iii. 208 DISAGREEABLE INCIDENT. I was disappointed in my attempt to reach the Fountain of Elisha; a circumstance which occasioned the more regret, as our straitened time and the arrangements of the party did not allow me another opportunity for accomplishing an object so desirable. Just as I was about to proceed from the upper aqueduct to the fountain, I was approached by two Bedouins, armed with matchlocks and short swords in the usual manner. They were bareheaded-an unusual circumstance--the hair being shaven close, with the exception of a small lock left long upon the crown, according to the fashion of these barbarians. Two more villanous, assassin-like knaves I do not remember to have met with. They pretended, when I first saw them, to be engaged in taking care of some horses which were grazing loose near by, but soon left them and advanced directly up to me. I felt at once the unpleasantness of my situation, and saw my gross imprudence in wandering a mile or more from the camp alone, and in a region which, I had such good reason to know, was full of robbers. It was too late, however, to retreat, and I had only to make the best of my situation, and learn more prudence for the future. I saluted my unwelcome visiters with a courteous salam, at the same time stepping back a little, as they had approached nearly within arm's length. I had no weapons, not so much as a walking-stick. Franks, however, are believed by these people to go always well armed; an impression which I tried to confirm by putting my hand in my bosom, as if to see that my pistols were ready for service. At the same time, I armed myself with a couple of heavy stones, with which I hoped, if necessary, to prevent mischief from the crazy matchlocks, which must be ignited by the aid of a flint and steel before becoming very formidable. The fellows halted, in seeming suspense as to what they should do. mile distant, but They looked at the encampment, a still conspicuously in view, and near enough for the report of a musket to be heard. They were very small men, even for Bedouins; and I thought they eyed my stature of six feet three with an appearance of respect, which, under the circumstances, was certainly gratifying to me. After a season of suspense, which seemed to me to be tedious, they retreated a few paces; and, after consulting together for a moment, commenced urging me to go with them to the wady that opens into the mountain near the Jerusalem road, pointing eagerly in that direction, and exclaiming, "El Deir, El Ain," as if acquainted with the objects of my visit. They even seemed disposed to take hold of my hands, and lead me towards these interesting objects. I declined their civilities with a resolute tone, designing to let them know that I took them for robbers, and at the same time keeping near them, as the best position for the use of my weapons, should that become necessary. After some minutes they retired towards the western mountain, and I, when they were gone a good distance, commenced my return to the camp, at first very carelessly, as being in no hurry, but as soon as I thought it prudent, at a quicker step. It was now after sunset. I crossed the ravine by walking along the channel of the lower aqueduct. Here I met several English gentlemen of our party, and heard from them of some additional robberies that had been committed during the afternoon upon some of the pilgrims, who had proceeded without a guard a little beyond the camp. FOUNTAIN OF ELISHA. The unpleasant incident just described deprived me of the only opportunity I was able to command during our stay for visiting the Fountain of Elisha, called by the 210 FOUNTAIN OF ELISHA. Arabs El Sultan. Some of our party were more fortunate than I was in their attempts to reach it. It is situated about a mile and a half northwest of our camp, or of the village of Jericho, and in the direction of Mount Quarantina. At the base of some low hillocks, thought by some to be mounds of rubbish, the water rises into an old ruinous basin, and flows off in an ample stream of the same volume, or nearly the same, which it presents near the village. Some portion of it is of course absorbed by the thirsty soil through which it passes, but the larger part of this stream is usually conveyed, by the channel already described, to the lower aqueduct, and thence diffused over the extensive plain south of the ravine. Another considerable portion is diverted, before reaching the aqueduct, to irrigate the fields adjacent to the source. The water is clear, and wa quite free from any disagreeable taste, though too warm to be very palatable. Josephus ascribes to it a peculiar efficacy in promoting vegetation, and says, "It affords a sweeter nourishment than other waters do," and " ters a larger space of ground than any other waters do, and passes along a plain of seventy furlongs long and twenty broad."* Originally it was quite unfit either for domestic purposes or irrigation, producing death and sterility, until the fountain was miraculously healed by Elisha, who "Cast salt in there, and said, Thus saith the Lord, I have healed these waters; there shall not be from thence any more death or barren land."† Near the fountain are many vestiges of ancient buildings, resembling, according to the accounts given me, those which I have described at the entrance of the valley upon the Jerusalem road. The stones are small and rough, scattered at random upon the surface, or lying in formless mounds. Still, the appearances indi * Wars, book iv., chap. viii., sect. iii. + 2 Kings, ii., 21. |