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unprovoked wrong. My feelings had been deeply outraged in the morning by the cruel assault made by my own servant upon the poor Christian muleteer, who, but the previous afternoon, had been beaten by one of our guards. Here we had another painful evidence of the indignities which the followers of our common Saviour are exposed to suffer, even from menials and common soldiers. These atrocities were formerly much more common than at present; yet, if I may judge from what fell under my own observation during this brief tour, they are still sufficiently frequent to demonstrate a most deplorable social state, and, I am almost inclined to think, to demand the intervention of Christian powers.

I made it my first business, after getting settled again in Jerusalem, to pay off and discharge Ibrahim. Besides paying the arrears of his wages, and an advance to the end of the current month, I deposited with a friend, a resident in the place, a small sum of money, just sufficient to pay his passage to Egypt, which I directed to be given to him when he should be ready to set out upon his return home. I had reason to fear, however, that he soon became penniless, as he continued his intemperate habits, and I saw him intoxicated, I believe, every day but one to the time of my departure from the city. I engaged the services of Yusuf, the faithful domestic of Mr. Lanneau, during the remainder of my stay; and Mr. C., with whom I travelled to Beyrout, obliged me by allowing his servant to render such attention as was necessary upon that journey. At Beyrout it is customary to dismiss Egyptian servants and send them to Alexandria, as they seldom understand Greek or Turkish, and are of little use after leaving Syria. Travelling servants can seldom be obtained in Jerusalem-at least, so my repeated and unsuccessful attempts to find one led me to conclude; and an English gentleman, who, like me, was obliged to dismiss his Egyptian dragoman, met with no better success in supplying his place.

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Visit to the Haram.-Interesting Remains of an ancient Bridge.-Its Style and probable Antiquity.-Remains of the Temple of Solomon.-Description by Josephus.-Destruction by the Romans.-Extent of these Remains.-Jews' Place of Prayer.-Limit of the Haram on the North.-Its Form and Dimensions.-Change in Form accounted for by Josephus.The great Reservoir north of the Haram not Bethesda, but a military Work.-The Sheep Gate.-Prevalent Errors with regard to the Ruins of the Temple.-Ruins of the Bridge and Temple long known, though not mentioned by Travellers.-Our Saviour's Prophecy.-Saracen Walls. -Interior of the Haram inaccessible.-Seen by Dr. Richardson and Mr. Catherwood.-Subterranean Colonnade and Apartments.-View of the Haram from Mount Zion.-Mosque of Omar.-Description of it.—Its Interior.-Its great Splendour and Sanctity.-Mosque of El Aksa.-History of Mount Moriah.-The Citadel.-Massive ancient Tower.-Evidence of its Jewish Origin.-The Hippicus of Josephus.-Question with regard to the Site of Calvary and the Sepulchre.-Church of the Sepulchre.— Incredulity of Protestants.-My own Impressions.-Argument against the Identity of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre derived from Josephus. -His Account of the ancient Walls of Jerusalem.-As commonly understood, incompatible with the Claims of the modern Calvary.-Flaw in this Argument.-Another Hypothesis.-Farther Notices of the ancient Topography from Josephus.-Position of the Gate Genneth probably ascertained.—The Site of the Church of the Sepulchre outside of the second Wall.-Objection considered.-Pool of Hezekiah.-Golgotha of the Evangelists. The traditionary Argument.-Its great Strength.-Historical Testimony.-Early Return of Christians to Jerusalem after its Ruin by Titus.-Church of Helena.-The Finding of the Cross.-The Monkish Traditions.-Their Influence upon this Question.-Church of the Sepulchre.-Importance of this Subject.-Evils of Scepticism.— Teachings of Holy Places.-Description of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.-Trinket Trade.-Various Objects in the Interior.-The Sepulchre. The Copts and their Chapel.-Greek Chapel and Worship.-Calvary.-Chapels of Helena and of the Finding of the Cross.-Rivalry of the Christian Sects.-Police.-Doubtful Custom.-The Latin Convent. -Monks of the Terra Santa.-Catholics of Jerusalem.-Armenians and their Convent.Their Wealth.-Rich Pilgrims.-The Church of the Convent.-Peculiar and Splendid Ornaments.-Crowds of Pilgrims.— The Greeks in Jerusalem.-Their Convents.-The Jews.-Their Quarter.Native and immigrant Jews. Their Condition.-Visit to their

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VISIT TO THE HARAM.

Synagogues.-Their Worship.-Their Learning.-Misdirection of Alms. -Character, Dress, and Appearance of the Jews.-Oppressions.-Population of Jerusalem. - English Mission.-Bishop of Jerusalem. - The American Mission.-Its slight Success.-Obstacles and Prospects. — A Protestant Anchorite.-A heroic Female.-Visit to Bethany.-Ruinous "Tower.-Tomb of Lazarus.-The Family of Lazarus.—The Village.— Its Identity.-Site and Remains of Bethpage.—The Rural Population. -Scanty Means of Subsistence in and about Jerusalem.-Articles of Food.-Prices.-Agriculture.-Wages.—Taxes.

APRIL 23. The day after my return from the Dead Sea, I went, in company with the Rev. Mr. Nicolayson, to see an interesting portion of the western wall of the Haram, or great enclosure of the ancient Temple, which, in the several visits I had previously made to this neighbourhood, had escaped my observation. The approach to the southwest angle of the Haram, though in no sense difficult, is yet disagreeable. It is necessary to pass through the Jewish quarter, the filthiest part of Jerusalem, and nearly impassable in a warm day on account of the disgusting sights and smells that fill the streets and the air. There is a considerable uninhabited space upon this part of the eastern slope of Mount Zion, which is steep, and covered with a rank growth of prickly pears, the largest that I remember to have seen. Many of them are positively large trees, with trunks twelve or eighteen inches in diameter, though always short and crooked, and prone upon the ground. They form a barrier before this portion of the wall, which may be passed by following the narrow, winding paths made by the goats that come here to browse. The stranger, however, who has not been made aware of the existence here of any object worthy of special attention, is likely to be content with a cursory view of this part of the wall, rather than to push through the thicket, bristling with thorns and redolent of unpleasant odours. Yet here is to be seen one of the most interesting and unquestionable relics of the

ANCIENT BRIDGE.

259

ancient Jewish architecture. Some immense stones project several feet from the wall, which, to an observer approaching from the west, or at a little distance, appear to have been thrust forward from their place by some pressure from within, and to threaten to tumble to the earth, followed by the stupendous superincumbent mass of masonry, which rises here to the height of more than sixty feet. The adjoining wall, however, is perceived to be perfectly sound, and the prominent masses of stone are found, on a more careful inspection, to occupy their original position in this ancient bulwark, and to be adjusted to each other with the nicest skill and the most evident design. It is obviously the spring of an arch-the eastern termination of a bridge which connected the Temple with Mount Zion. This fragment of an arch is just fifty feet in length, which was the width of the bridge. It consists of four courses of stones, projecting over each other as they rise, forming a regular curve. The largest stone is six feet in thickness, and extends along the wall twenty-five feet, thus forming just half the width of the bridge.

The workmanship of this fragment is of the same appearance and character, and no doubt belongs to the same era with the massive foundations of the eastern and southern walls and southeast angle of the Haram, already described, and which I have ventured to ascribe to Solomon or his early successors.

We know that a bridge connected the Temple with Mount Zion at the time of Pompey's invasion of Palestine, which was before the rebuilding of the Temple by Herod.* Herod's splendid reconstruction seems, indeed, to have been confined to the Temple proper, which he rebuilt upon the ancient foundations; nor *Josephus, Antiquities, b. xiv., ch. iv., sec. ii.

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REMAINS OF THE TEMPLE.

does it appear that these had been disturbed in the burning of the Temple by the Chaldeans, and its reconstruction by Zerubbabel.

These stupendous remains answer perfectly to the description given by Josephus of the foundations of the Temple built by Solomon, upon which, he says, Herod reared the magnificent cloisters of his new edifice. He relates that Solomon "encompassed the hill with a wall, beginning at the bottom, which was encompassed by a deep valley. He laid rocks together, and bound them one to another with lead, till it proceeded to a great height, and till both the largeness of the square edifice and the altitude were immense, and till the vastness of the stones in front was plainly visible on the outside, yet so that the inward parts were fastened together with iron, preserving the joints immovable for all future ages."

The least we can infer from such language is, that the exterior works of the Temple built by Solomon were entire in the days of the historian, long after the reconstruction of the Temple itself by Herod. The ruin afterward effected by the Romans, in which one stone of the Temple was not left upon another, did not extend to these walls, which were probably buried by the masses of material and rubbish precipitated into the valleys below in the destruction of the superstructure. The stones would naturally be subdivided and removed for the erection of dwellings or the repairs of the walls in the rebuilding of the city, and the mass of rubbish would be gradually diminished by the agency of rains, till, in the progress of time, the stupendous bulwark which now excites our admiration by its massiveness and solidity, and which is probably indebted to this concealment for its preservation, was uncovered * Antiquities, b. xv., ch. xi., sec. iii.

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