388 PLAIN EAST OF TABOR. Arabs call it Keroun Hottein, the Horns of Hottein, in allusion to the two peaks or elevated summits on its top. At some distance farther east, the plain continuing to ascend as usual, we unexpectedly came to an abrupt descent of perhaps a hundred feet. This high bulwark extends far to the right as well as to the left, forming the western boundary of a second plain or valley, which commences at its base and spreads out eastward towards the sea, like the former, rising gradually before us as we advanced, and of a surface still more variegated. The soil here changes back to the dark red which prevails in the great plain beyond Mount Tabor. It is mostly under cultivation, and either covered with fine wheat or freshly ploughed for a summer crop. This beautiful vale certainly equals—I think it surpasses in fertility, any portion of the plain of Esdraelon that came under my observation; and the agriculture seemed to me to be conducted with more skill and care. My attention had been so fully occupied with this scene of loveliness, and these unusual tokens of industry and civilization, always the more striking for being rare, as not to have heeded our progress until we reached the eastern border of the plain. We were upon the brow of what must appear to a spectator at its base a lofty mountain, which bounds the deep basin of the Sea of Galilee, and forms the last step in the descent from the very elevated plain over which we had journeyed during the long day. The sun had just set behind us in a blaze of red light, which filled the western sky for many degrees above the horizon, and was slightly reflected from the smooth, glassy surface of the beautiful lake, whose opposite shore was visible for many miles on the right and left, rising abruptly out of the water into an immense and continuous bulwark, several hundred feet in height, grand and massive, but softened by graceful undulations, and covered with a carpet of luxuriant vegetation from the summit quite down to the water's edge. Beyond the lake stretched out a vast, and, to our eyes, a boundless region, filled up with a countless number of beautiful, rounded hills, all clad in verdure, which, at this moment, was invested with a peculiar richness of colouring. In the remote distance, though full in our view, the snowy top of Mount Hermon was still glittering and basking in the beams of the sun, while a chaste, cool drapery of white, fleecy clouds hung around its base. The green, graceful form of Mount Tabor rose behind us, while over the broad and well-cultivated plain, the numerous fields of wheat, now of a dark, luxuriant green, contrasted strongly and strangely with intervening tracts of red, freshlyploughed ground. Independent of sacred associations this was altogether a scene of rare and unique beauty—nay, of splendid magnificence. very We had commenced the descent, when a change in our direction brought the city of Tiberias into view, sunk deep in the chasm below, and seated close to the shining field of water, which appeared to be within a quarter of an hour's ride of us. We were, however, a full hour in reaching a point which a very protracted and fatiguing ride had made specially desirable to us. The twilight is here very short, and darkness follows the setting of the sun with great rapidity. The descent, which at first was smooth and tolerably gentle, soon became rough and difficult. Unable to guide my jaded horse with any degree of satisfaction, or, as I thought, safety, I dismounted and drove him before me. It was profoundly dark before we were able to reach the foot of the mountain, and the road became so narrow, rocky, and precipitous as to render our progress slow and excessively troublesome. I was afterward surprised to learn that several of the party had succeeded in riding down this mountain; but one learns to ride anywhere on these surefooted Syrian horses. On looking back upon this road the next morning, I was filled with wonder and gratitude that 390 ARRIVAL AT TIBERÍAS. we had all been saved from serious accidents in making the dark and perilous descent. It was in the midst of the most profound darkness that we reached the city gate. A large company of Christian pilgrims, who had spent the holy season at Jerusalem, and were now on their return to Damascus and Asia Minor, were encamped before this main entrance to the city. Not a light was visible or a sound audible within its walls. After preparing our lanterns, and making an unsuccessful reconnoisance in quest of a better place, we finally pitched our tents in the midst of a rank growth of nettles, a little to the right of the gate. The City of Tiberias.-Early Visiters.-Fallen Walls of the Town.-Earthquake in 1837.- Desolation. -The Mosques.-The Castle.-Walls.— Area.-Towers.-Environs.-The Jews' Quarter.-Visit to their Synagogues.-Jewesses.-A polite Rabbi.-Schools.-College.-Number and Condition of the Jews.-The Christians.-House of St. Peter.-Situation and Remains of the ancient City.-Hot Springs.-Turkish Baths.-Character of these Waters.-Bath in the Sea of Tiberias.-Ancient Edifice.Tombs in the Base of the Mountain.-Ascent to the Acropolis.-Ruins. -Citadel.-Wells.-Probable Origin of these Works.-View from the Acropolis.-The Sea of Tiberias.-Appearance of the Shore.-Region east of the Sea.-Mount Hermon.-Current through the Sea.-Fishingboats.-Fish.-History of Tiberias.-Route to Safet.-Excessive Heat.Cemetery.-Reservoirs on the Seashore.-Garden.-The Road. - Mejdal.-Magdala.-Bad Climate.-The Plain Genesareth.-Cultivation.Mills.-Form of the Plain.-Its Identity with the Land of Genesareth.Wady Hymam.-Capernaum.-Bethsaida and Chorazin.—Their probable Sites.-Ascent of the Mountain towards Safet.-Interesting Ruins of a Stronghold. Interesting and various Appearance of the Sea of Tiberias.-The Region beyond.-The Land of Genesareth.-Syrian Horses. -Encampment in a Ravine.-Fountains. - Palm and Olive Trees.Measure of Distance.-Trials of Patience.-Acbala.-Rural Beauty.Bees.-Female Curiosity.-Ruins.-Arrival at Safet.-Its Situation.The Citadel.-Mohammedan Quarter. The Bazar. Subterranean Streets.-Trade.-Houses and Streets.-The Jews.-Their Appearance and Condition.-Grotesque Costumes.-Persecution of the Jews.-Population of Safet.-The Earthquake in 1837.-Holy Cities of Palestine. -Cemetery near Safet.-Jewish Schools.-Commerce.-View from Safet.-Route to Tyre.-Anzeta.-Cadicha.-A large Plain.-Numerous Herds. -Mount Maconi.-Volcanic Remains. -Zish.-Wady Zish.-Vineyards.-A Cottage.-Signs of increasing Fertility.-Woodland. Ruins. Sarcophagi. - Village of Yaroun.-Splendid Remains of a Church. Ancient Well.- Reservoir. - Christian Population.-Their humble Church.-Ruins west of the Village.-Bint el Jebbail.-Appearances of Comfort and Prosperity.-Heretics.-The Weather.-Aspect of the Country.-Trees.-Koroun.-Beithoni.-Fortress of Tibinin.-Village.-Khan.-Sarcophagi.-The Scenery.-View of the Plain of Phonice. Incompetent Guides.-The Route.-Massive Ruins.-Saracen Aqueduct.-Ancient Paths.-Encamp in the Plains of Tyre.-Digression. -Observations on the Soil of Palestine.-Erroneous Views.-Causes of -- 392 THE CITY OF TIBERIAS. Sterility. Decay of Terraces.-Destruction of Wood.-Bad Tillage.Soil of the Hill Country.-The Olive.-Fruits used as Food.-Their Value.-The Mountains of Ephraim.-The Culture of Wheat.-Esdraelon.Colonies in Palestine.-The Restoration of the Jews.-The only practicable Plan.-Peculiar Features of Palestine.-Destitution of Timber; of Enclosures and rural Cottages; of Roads.-Costumes.-Present Population. Their Character and Condition.-Influence of Government.— Other Obstacles to Improvement. TIBERIAS. MAY 2. I devoted the morning to an examination of the ruinous city before whose fallen bulwarks we had passed the night. The pilgrims were already preparing for their departure, and a number of people from within the walls had come out to graze their horses and cows. The former they held or tethered among the tall grass and other herbage that grew near our tents; a spot well adapted to the double purpose of feeding their animals and gratifying their curiosity by gazing upon the strangers. A number of women were out, who manifested no shyness and did not wear veils. The first object that arrested my attention, on looking towards the town, was the ruinous condition of the wall, which consisted of a shapeless pile of squared stones, over which was the foot-path by which the people passed out and in instead of going to the gate, a little distance farther north. I had to this moment forgotten the dreadful catastrophe by which this city was overwhelmed in 1837, when its walls, and, with a few exceptions, all its public and private edifices, were thrown down by an earthquake. Nearly one third of its 3000 inhabitants perished, though no exact account was taken, or probably could be taken, of their number. No attempt had yet been made to rebuild the walls. A few of the houses have been reconstructed, in a style evidently inferior to the old ones. They now consist merely of mud walls, or of such as are made in the rudest manner of small, rough stones. Of the several mosques, only a single minaret is standing. The castle, which oc |