lifts up its glittering summits high into the region of the clouds, and presents to the eye, certainly, the noblest, sublimest mountain scene that I ever gazed upon. The Swiss Alps attain to a greater elevation, and develop features of greater variety and amplitude, but at no point from which I have observed them do they present a single aspect so overawing and magnificent. The mountain is composed of limestone, and it exhibits a vast proportion of white, or rather whitish, cliff. Indeed, the spectator upon the lower grounds sees hardly anything but bare, rugged masses of rock, though a glimpse is here and there obtained through the deep chasms that extend from the base to the top of the mountain, of gardens and vineyards, resting on numberless terraces, which rise one above another like the successive steps of a staircase, till they are literally lost sight of among the clouds.

Were the observer transferred to the summit of Lebanon, the rocky slopes, I suppose, would be concealed from him, and he would only see these artificial plains covering the whole mountain side, which his new point of view would convert into a vast rural district, full of gardens and fruittrees, and dotted with a multitude of populous villages. Only two or three of these were visible from our lodgings, and the situation of many others was occasionally indicated, more especially at an early hour in the morning, by columns of smoke. Here the hardy and brave mountaineers, though often overwhelmed by superior numbers, and visited in their aërial fastnesses with the desolating fury of Oriental warfare, have generally been able to maintain some degree of independence and freedom, the nurse and bulwark of their industry and enterprise. The top of Lebanon is covered. with perpetual snow, or, as it appeared from our position in the gardens, with ice as clear as crystal, which the beams of the sun, from 12 to 2 or 3 o'clock, converted into

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CEDARS-BEYROUT.

a crown of glory. The entire summit of the mountain, at that time of the day, was involved in a blaze of radiance.

The cedars of Lebanon, which the frequent allusions of the inspired writers have invested with so many interesting associations, are usually visited by travellers in making the excursion to Balbec and Damascus. The principal grove is nearly three days' travel from Beyrout, in a very elevated region of the mountain. In this remote and barely accessible situation a few ancient trees remain, which, as described to me by a fellow-traveller, who saw them in the summer of 1839, are worthy representatives of the "Cedars of Lebanon" that flourished there in the days of Hiram and Solomon. They have long since disappeared from the mountains wherever it was practicable to transport them to the

seacoast.

Beyrout, so far as can now be known, is not mentioned in the Holy Scriptures, though Tyre and Sidon, the other great cities of Phoenicia, from the frequent allusions made to them by the historical and prophetic writers of the Old Testament, have come to be regarded almost as Jewish towns. This circumstance is a sufficient proof of the greater antiquity of those venerable marts of commerce, though Beyrout was an important place at the commencement of the Christian era. It soon after became celebrated for its schools of learning, and in the days of the Crusaders it was yet more celebrated as the seat of their military operations, as well as for its considerable commerce. Latterly it has derived its importance from being the chief emporium of the meager trade of Syria, and to the Christian, and especially to the American reader, from being the headquarters of an extensive and highly efficient mission. It is on this account that Beyrout and Mount Lebanon are regarded with a renovated and very peculiar interest; and that no portion of the earth, so little important on other accounts, attracts in

an equal degree the sympathies and prayers of many of the best and wisest men of the present age.

Since the time of my visit, Beyrout and all the other towns of Phoenicia have been bombarded, and partially demolished, by the combined fleets of England and Austria. Syria has been rescued from the power of Mohammed Ali, and restored to its ancient allegiance to the sultan of Turkey; and events are hastening to demonstrate whether the stern, appalling tyranny of the Egyptian dynasty, or the restored imbecility and corruptions of the Turkish, is most incompatible with the wellbeing of human society.

CHAPTER XI.

Voyage from Beyrout to Smyrna.-Fellow-passengers.-The Cadi of Jerusalem and his Harem.-Oriental Manners.-The Seacoast of Asia Minor. -Islands.-A Turkish Governor on board.-Habits of the Cadi and Pacha.-The Grumbling Race.-Arrival at Smyrna.-Grievous Disappointment. Quarantine.-The Seri Pervas.-The allied Fleets.-Splendid Pageant.-Quarters on Shore.-Visit from the Missionaries.-Embarcation.-Report of the Plague.-Quarantine in Prospect.-Effect of Evil Tidings on the Orientals and on the Franks.-Voyage to Stamboul.Lodgings in Pera.-The American Mission.-Illness.-Friends in Need. -Departure for Vienna.-Co-voyagers.-The Black Sea.-Mouths of the Danube.-Aspect of the Shore.-Unhealthiness of the Region.-The Navigation of the Danube.-The Steamboats.-Climate.-Turkish Officer.Fruits of Reform.-The new Costume.-A Circassian Lady.-Her Price. -Her Suite.-A Prescription for Fever.-Quarantine at Orsova.-Sublime Scenery.-Ancient Road.-Christianity on the Frontiers of Hungary.-Belgrade and Semlin.-Hungarians.-Pest.-Arrival in Vienna.Severe Illness.-Kindness of Friends.-Grinsing.-Mr. and Mrs. Shauffler. Journey to Munich.-Through Switzerland to Paris.-The English Channel. Stay in London.-Voyage across the Atlantic.

On the 21st of May we proceeded from our comfortable lodgings, where I had been confined since the 9th instant, on board the Austrian steamboat Seri Pervas, bound from

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DEPARTURE FOR SMYRNA.

Alexandria to Smyrna. Beside a company of fifteen or sixteen English and Americans, we had for our fellow-passengers nearly a hundred Orientals, chiefly Armenian and Greek pilgrims, on their return from Jerusalem, but with a considerable number of Turks. Among the latter was the cadi or chief judge of Jerusalem. The grand senior, as the acknowledged head of Islamism, is still allowed to appoint the judges who are accounted religious functionaries, in Syria as well as in Egypt, though his power for all other purposes has ceased many years ago. The cadi, who was a fine-looking old man with a most reverend beard, was now returning to Constantinople, accompanied by his harem of ten women, not one of whom appeared to be above five-andtwenty years old. They were generally confined to a small after-cabin, from which, however, the extreme heat that prevailed from twelve to three or four o'clock usually compelled them to escape to the deck, where a sort of tent of sailcloth was prepared, to afford them shelter and concealment. All their motions were guided and watched by an old eunuch, while the venerable cadi, who was seated on a carpet near the tent, and affected all the airs of apathy and indifference befitting a Turk of high degree, evidently kept a vigilant eye upon them, and frequently despatched the tawny Argus with messages of caution and reproof on the occurrence of a laugh or an audible word among his rather volatile and talkative family. In spite of all these precautions, the immured fair ones contrived to satisfy their curiosity by gazing upon the strangers, and they were evidently no less willing to be seen; for which purpose they occasionally found opportunities to expose their faces.

The Armenians and Greeks slept in the open air upon deck, of which they occupied and completely filled every nook and corner, with the exception of an area four feet wide by perhaps twenty in length. This was guarded by a railing, and reserved for the use of the Franks; and here

it was that, by leaving the dinner-table earlier than the rest, or, at other times, by using great care not to come in collision or tread upon each other, we were able to get a little exercise by walking. As to the Orientals, they were huddled together like sheep in a fold, and had no room to move a foot without the risk of stepping on a sleeping child, or on the outstretched limbs of those who were sitting or lying by them. Their patience and cheerfulness during the five days of our voyage to Smyrna, under circumstances so little compatible with personal comfort, were truly admirable. All were grave and dignified in their deportment. I observed no boisterous merriment-no rudeness or horse-play -no quarrelling or excited conversation. Several of them spent a large portion of their time in playing at cards and other games, for which they manifested the utmost eagerness. They carried their own provisions, which consisted chiefly of bread, preserved fruits, curds, and onions eaten raw. Some drank wine, but I saw no instance of intemperance among them.

The coast of Syria and Asia Minor usually presented nothing to the eye but a towering mountain wall of bare rock. The fertile lands, for which this country was always celebrated, are spread out in high, broad plains beyond this frowning barrier, or concealed in the deep valleys of the interior. We touched at the celebrated Islands of Cyprus and Rhodes, and sailed close to Scio and some other places rich in classical and historical associations, but, being in quarantine, were denied the privilege of going on shore. At Cyprus we received the Turkish governor on board, a pacha in dignity, who took his position, with his outfit of carpet, cushions, &c., beside the cadi. As these distinguished functionaries had half a dozen negro slaves in constant attendance, supplying them, at intervals of ten or fifteen minutes, with pipes, coffee, sherbet, sweetmeats, &c., they contrived to occupy pretty fully at least half of our