WANDERINGS OF THE ISRAELITES.

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The precise route of the Israelites between Sinai and Kadesh, and in their subsequent wanderings, will probably never be determined with certainty, though the facts here adduced, taken in connexion with the formation of the country, may throw light upon the subject. From Sinai they went four or five days' journey into the wilderness, to Hazeroth, which Burckhardt thinks he has discovered in Ain Hudera, a little more than forty miles from Horeb. This route is much more straitened and difficult than the more northerly one by Ain, besides that it would have led them a journey of several days along the seashore, an approach to which is always mentioned with much particularity in the narrative of Moses. Ain, which is nearly fifty miles from Horeb, might easily have been reached in five days, and this route would seem to be every way preferable, as more open, and not only affording a supply of water, but more abundant pasturage; considerations that were likely to have great influence where there were no enemies to be dreaded. They might have proceeded thence to Ezion Geber, along the route taken by our caravan. This, however, is hardly probable, as no mention is made of a place so important, situated, too, upon the Red Sea. Or they might have come out upon Wady Araba, through some pass farther north, and still proceeded by the way of Mount Seir to Kadesh Barnea. If this hypothesis is correct, the Israelites probably traversed this valley, through the whole or part of its length, not less than four times: first, in their approach to Kadesh Barnea, "by the way of Mount Seir” (Deut., i., 2); secondly, after the return of the spies, when the people rebelled, and were commanded "to take their journey into the wilderness by the way of the Red Sea" (Deut., i., 40); thirdly, on their second return to Kadesh; and, finally, upon their journey through the way of the plain, from Eloth and from Ezion Geber," to the Jordan, "through the wilderness of Moab" (Deut., ii., 8). This last journey took place forty VOL. II.-F

62

ASCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN.

years after their departure from Egypt, just subsequent to the defeat of the Canaanites at Hormah, and to the death of Aaron on Mount Hor. It is probable that during the intervening years the people fed their flocks in the great Desert west of Araba, as well as along that broad and fertile plain. There is no evidence that the Edomites were disposed to molest them so long as they did not attempt to enter into the agricultural portions of their country. They evidently had free access to Mount Hor and its neighbourhood.

April 5. We began our journey to-day by the ascent of the very steep and difficult mountain. It cost us hard toiling for one hour and a half. This mountain is composed of limestone formed in regular strata, which, at this point, dip to the south. The slope is tolerably smooth, being formed of a layer of the rock, which appears, when seen at a little distance, as even and regular as a roof of slates or shingles. It is, however, so steep that it is barely possible for loaded camels to ascend. We went on foot up the ascent, and I do not remember to have taken a more fatiguing walk. This is an old Roman road, and it was, not improbably, a thoroughfare long before their dominion was extended over Judea. There are steps cut in the rock in the more difficult parts of the ascent, which are probably the work of that people, who always carried civilization in the train of their victories. The ruins of a fortress or station are seen near the foot of the mountain. It was built of hewn stone, of very substantial workmanship. We also saw two ruinous towers on the opposite side of the mountain. The descent is comparatively easy.

A valley stretches along the western base, beautified with a still more abundant verdure than that of Wady Fikara. It was also adorned with a profusion of small yellow flowers, in appearance much like the dandelion. We could hardly consider ourselves as any longer in the Desert. I thought the verdure and flowers the brightest and loveliest I had

ever seen, and experienced the most lively gratification in contemplating these evidences of superior fertility and of an approach to more cultivated regions. We passed through Wady Triba, and at half past eleven o'clock entered a narrow, green vale, which the Bedouins call Wady Kouroup. A large herd of camels, including many young, were grazing, under the care of several Bedouins of the tribe of Said. At half past two we passed some ruins of a small town or village, apparently very ancient. Not far from this are the remains of a tower or station. We encamped, at 4 P.M., in a broad plain, which was anciently under cultivation, as is apparent from the remains of walls, and, in some places, of terraces. It is quite susceptible of being reclaimed and restored to fertility.

April 6. The shrubs upon the part of the plain which we passed over this morning presented a curious appearance. They were laden with small snail shells, which were attached to their branches in incredible numbers, and, seen at a small distance, were easily mistaken for perfectly white berries.

At eight o'clock we passed the ruins of a Mohammedan tomb and mosque, standing together, about half a mile from the road on the right. The tomb is about twenty feet square, each side formed of an arch. The mosque is thirty feet long, with an arched roof. The workmanship is coarse and the style bad; but in these forsaken regions, every such object forms a memorable landmark.

At nine o'clock we stopped at two ancient wells, of the apparent depth of fifty or sixty feet. They are walled up in the most substantial manner with hewn stones. There is no windlass or other machinery for drawing water, which is done by means of a rope and bucket of goat or sheep skin let down into the well and raised by hand. Many incisions have been made by the rope in the solid limestone, three or four inches deep and three feet long. Watering

troughs, dug out of large blocks of stone, stand about the well, for the purpose of watering the flocks, which are collected here at night. One is made of the capital of a column. We tried the water, which is not good. Here, not improbably, Abraham and Isaac watered their flocks. This large plain was very accessible to them, while they made their headquarters; "dwelt in the vale of Mamre, which is Hebron," and I rejoiced to believe that I was now in a region often traversed by the patriarchs. This plain takes the name of the wells, El Mala. It was covered with grass, which also flourished on the slopes of the adjacent mountains. There are no shrubs or thorns upon it.

At ten A.M. we passed the extensive ruins of a village or a town, scattered along the side of a hill, upon our left hand. A heap of hewn stone, and parts of two columns yet standing, point out the probable site of some public edifice. Many more fragments of columns lie upon the earth.

At half past ten A.M. we passed by a village or camp of thirty Bedouin tents, of the Jehaleen tribe, situated in the midst of luxuriant pasturage. Large herds of camels and flocks of goats and sheep attest the comparative affluence of these children of the Desert. We were told of a small party of Franks who, in passing this village a few months since, were robbed of their money, arms, &c.

In an hour and a half more we reached a second camp, of about one hundred and fifty low, black tents, encompassed with still more abundant evidences of pastoral wealth. Camels, donkeys, horses, goats, and sheep were seen covering the plain and the mountain sides. I entered the encampment, which was quadrangular, the tents being so arranged as to form an enclosure for the flocks, which are all gathered there at night, a practice more conducive to security than cleanliness. A multitude of shepherds' dogs made a fierce and clamorous sally towards us as we ap

proached, but were easily repulsed by a show of resistance. The sheik and many others saluted us in a friendly manner. The women drew aside their black veils in order to obtain a satisfactory view of our persons and costumes, and a crowd of ragged or naked, and filthy children pressed upon us from all quarters. We entered the tents, and examined their contents and arrangements with perfect freedom. All was comfortless and foul. The tents are scarcely more than three feet in height, and the goats, sheep, &c., appear to have as free access as the owners. An old mat or blanket, with some nasty camels' furniture, form their beds; and a vessel or two for boiling, one or two wooden bowls, and some goatskin bottles to hold milk, buttermilk, &c., constitute their means of comfort and luxury. Some of our party bought some milk, which was poured from these skins into a dirty wooden bowl. Its appearance was calculated to satisfy an ordinary appetite, without proceeding farther; however, they drank manfully, and pronounced it taib, to the no small satisfaction of the people-a feeling that seemed to be greatly enhanced by the good coin which was paid in return for this salubrious draught.

These people appear to the product of their herds. cupied with a quantity of dry. The women were spinning wool upon wooden spindles, which they twirled between the thumb and finger, a most simple and primitive contrivance, often seen in Italy and Egypt. How would these people wonder to hear of Arkwright's improvements in the science of spinning? The women were tattooed on their arms and faces, and tricked out with beads, earrings, and bracelets.

subsist chiefly or wholly upon

The roof of every tent was occurds, spread out in the sun to

We saw small fields of wheat near this village, both upon the plain and in the small nooks that indent the base of the mountain. At the distance of about one hour from this camp we passed a heap of ruins near the foot of the mount