Travels in Egypt, Arabia Petræa, and the Holy land - Stephen Olin - Google Books

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Excursion to Jericho and the Dead Sea.-Procession of the Pilgrims to Jor-

dan. Military Escort.-The Governor of Jerusalem and his Suite.-

Motley Crowd before St. Stephen's Gate. - Beggars.-View from the

Bethany Road.-The Route to Bethany.-Road through the Mountains.

-Khan.-Field of Blood. -Ruins.-Ancient Aqueduct.-View of the

Plain of Jordan.-Descent of the Mountain.-Scene of the Temptation.

-Mount Quarantina.-Ruined Town.-Encampment by Jericho.-Ibra-

him.-A Disappointment.-Turkish Justice.-Robberies.-Story of the

Good Samaritan.-A Walk over the Plain.-Aqueducts.-The Plain.-

System of Irrigation.-Products of the Plain.-Its ancient Fertility.-

Saracen Era.-Unpleasant Meeting.-Fountain of Elisha.-Its Water.-

Ruins near the Fountain.-Woodland.-The Dom.-The Zockum.-My-

robalanum.-Nightshade.-Apples of Sodom.-Ancient Products of the

Plain.-Its present Products and Capabilities.-Our Camp.-Representa-

tives of many Nations there.-Cossacs, Armenians, &c.-Modes of Trav-

elling. Customs and Costumes. - Night Scene.-Walks through the

Camp after Midnight.-Reflections.-Early Departure for the Jordan.—

Encounter with the returning Procession.-Trophies.-Religious Cere-

monies at the River.-Baptism of Trinkets.-Grave-clothes, &c.-Eques-

trian Fêtes.-Modern Jericho.-Rihah.-Frail Bulwark.-House of Zach-

eus.-The Sycamore.-The Bazar, &c.-Site of ancient Jericho.-Prob-

able Changes.-The Plain of Jericho.-Ruins.-Route to the Jordan.-

The second Bank.-The lower Plain.-Banks of the Jordan.-Trees and

Shrubs.-The River -Scene of our Lord's Baptism.-El Ghor.—Tribu-

taries of the Jordan.-Its Inundations.-The Jordan of the Bible.-Tran-

sit of the River by Joshua.-Gilgal.-Pisgah.-The Plain of Moab.-

Climate.-Ride to the Dead Sea.-Incidents.-Aspect of the Plain.—A

Bath in the Sea.-The Peculiarities of the Water.-Fatal to Animal and

Vegetable Life.-Drift-wood.-Birds fly over the Sea.-Description of the

Sea. The surrounding Mountains.-Appearance of the Sea from the

Plain of Jericho.-Its Dimensions and Depth.-Great Evaporation.-Its

Depression below the Mediterranean.-Ford.-Scripture Names.-As-

phaltum.-Situation and Destruction of the Cities of the Plain.-Hypoth-

esis on this Subject.-Fœtid Stone.-Nitre.-Sulphur.-Salt.-Return

to Jerusalem.-Birds.-Deer.-Aspect of the Mountains.-Difficulties of

this Route.-Tomb of Moses.-Incompetence of our Guides.—An ancient

Well.-The Mountains.-Approach to St. Saba. - Cedron.-Artificial

Road.-Fatigues of the Day.-Arrival and Accommodations at the Con-

vent.-Description of the Site and Convent.-The New and Old Church-

es.-Chapels.-Traditions of the Monastery.-Descent into the Ravine.-

Defences. History of the Convent.-A painful Incident.-Route to Beth-

lehem.-Obstacles to Tillage.-The Latin Monks.-A Storm.-Moham-

medan Tyranny.-Personal Matters.

Visit to the Haram.-Interesting Remains of an ancient Bridge.-Its Style

and probable Antiquity.-Remains of the Temple of Solomon.-Descrip-

tion by Josephus.-Destruction by the Romans.-Extent of these Re-

mains.-Jews' Place of Prayer.-Limit of the Haram on the North.-Its

Form and Dimensions.-Change in Form accounted for by Josephus.—

The great Reservoir north of the Haram not Bethesda, but a military

Work.-The Sheep Gate.-Prevalent Errors with regard to the Ruins

of the Temple.-Ruins of the Bridge and Temple long known, though

not mentioned by Travellers.-Our Saviour's Prophecy.-Saracen Walls.

-Interior of the Haram inaccessible.-Seen by Dr. Richardson and Mr.

Catherwood.-Subterranean Colonnade and Apartments.-View of the

Haram from Mount Zion.-Mosque of Omar.-Description of it.-Its In-

terior. Its great Splendour and Sanctity.-Mosque of El Aksa.-Histo-

ry of Mount Moriah.-The Citadel.-Massive ancient Tower.-Evidence

of its Jewish Origin.-The Hippicus of Josephus.-Question with regard

to the Site of Calvary and the Sepulchre.-Church of the Sepulchre.—

Incredulity of Protestants.-My own Impressions.-Argument against

the Identity of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre derived from Josephus.

-His Account of the ancient Walls of Jerusalem.-As commonly under-

stood, incompatible with the Claims of the modern Calvary.-Flaw in

this Argument.-Another Hypothesis.-Farther Notices of the ancient

Topography from Josephus.-Position of the Gate Genneth probably as-

certained.-The Site of the Church of the Sepulchre outside of the sec-

ond Wall.-Objection considered.-Pool of Hezekiah.-Golgotha of the

Evangelists.-The traditionary Argument.-Its great Strength.-Histor-

ical Testimony.-Early Return of Christians to Jerusalem after its

Ruin by Titus.-Church of Helena.-The Finding of the Cross.-The

Monkish Traditions.-Their Influence upon this Question.-Church of

the Sepulchre.-Importance of this Subject.-Evils of Scepticism.—

Teachings of Holy Places.-Description of the Church of the Holy Sep-

ulchre.-Trinket Trade.-Various Objects in the Interior.-The Sepul-

chre.-The Copts and their Chapel.-Greek Chapel and Worship.-Cal-

vary. Chapels of Helena and of the Finding of the Cross.-Rivalry of

the Christian Sects.-Police.-Doubtful Custom.-The Latin Convent.

-Monks of the Terra Santa.-Catholics of Jerusalem.-Armenians and

their Convent.Their Wealth.-Rich Pilgrims.-The Church of the

Convent.-Peculiar and Splendid Ornaments.-Crowds of Pilgrims.—

The Greeks in Jerusalem.-Their Convents.-The Jews.-Their Quar-

ter.-Native and immigrant Jews. - Their Condition. -Visit to their

Synagogues.-Their Worship.-Their Learning.-Misdirection of Alms.

-Character, Dress, and Appearance of the Jews.-Oppressions.-Popula-

tion of Jerusalem. - English Mission.-Bishop of Jerusalem. - The

American Mission.-Its slight Success.-Obstacles and Prospects. A

Protestant Anchorite.-A heroic Female.-Visit to Bethany.-Ruinous

Tower.-Tomb of Lazarus.-The Family of Lazarus.-The Village.—

Its Identity.-Site and Remains of Bethpage. - The Rural Population.

-Scanty Means of Subsistence in and about Jerusalem.-Articles of

Food.-Prices.-Agriculture.-Wages.-Taxes
Page 257

Journey to Beyrout.-Departure from Jerusalem.-Reflections.-Last View

from Mount Scopus.-Villages.-Ruined Tower.-Wheat-fields.-Khan.

-Ancient Quarry.-Vestiges of ancient Tillage.-Village of Beer.-Ru-

ins.-Fountain.-Rain.-Climate of Judea.-The Rainy Season.-The

Summer.-Aspect of the Country.-Bethel.-Einbroot.-Former Culti-

vation. New Plantations.-Singil.-Interesting Ravine.-Terraces.-

Ruins. Fountain.-Khan and Fountain of Leben.-Fruitful Plain.--Our

Guides. Village.-Several Villages-Ainboos.--Ovita.--Howara.-Ex-

tensive Valley-Good Husbandry.-Guards at Night.-Syrian Peasants.

-Populousness of this Region.-Wady Sahl.-Mount Ebal.-Mount

Gerizim.-Vale of Nablous.-Scripture Notices.-A beautiful Fountain.

-Ancient Tombs under Mount Ebal.-Arrival at Nablous.-Lepers.-A

Guide. Ascent of Mount Gerizim.- Ancient Road.-Mohammedan

Tomb.-Ruins on the Northeast Summit.--Citadel.-Cistern.-Ruins of

the Southern Summit.-Vast Quadrangle.-Octagonal Edifice.—Ancient

Pavement.-Ruined City.-Holy Places.-Cisterns.-Graves.-View

from the Top of Gerizim.-Mount Ebal.-Samaritans.-Their Worship.

-Their History.-Conjecture.-Descent from the Mountain.-Enchant-

ing View.-Gardens.-Mountain Stream.-Jacob's Well.-Its Identity.--

Narrative of the Evangelist.-Objections considered.-Tomb of Joseph.—

Visit to the Samaritans.- Jewish Guide and Synagogue.-- Samaritan

Synagogue.-Chief Rabbi.-Ancient Copy of the Scriptures.-Conver-

sation. Samaritans and Jews in Nablous.-The present City.-Bazar.-

Manufactures.-Commerce.-Population.-Christians.-Ride to Sebaste.

-Valley below Nablous.-Exuberant Fertility.—Springs.-Aqueduct.—

Mills. The Road.-Cornfields and Villages.-The Hill of Samaria.-

Petty Disappointments.-Survey of Sebaste.-Mohammedan Bigotry.-

Ancient Wall.-Mosque.-Ancient Colonnade.-Ruinous Pile.-Ascent

and Summit of the Mountain.-Noble View.-Christian Boy in Trouble.

-Ancient Temple. The Church of John the Baptist.-Private Entrance.

-Interior of the Edifice.-Military Defences.-Visit to the Colonnade in

the Valley north of Sebaste.-Descent from the Hill.-Traces of the Old

Wall.-Strength of this Position.-Form, Extent, and probable Object of

the Colonnade. History of Samaria.-Route to Jennin.-Ascent of the

Mountain.-View.Jibba. Sannour.-Cultivated Fields.-Jennin.-

News.-Situation of Jennin.-Signs of Prosperity.-Trees.-Gardens.-

Fountain. Good Ruler.-Ginea.-The Plain of Esdraelon.-Extensive

Tillage.-Ploughs and Oxen.-Soil of the Plain.-Productions.-Cotton.

-Situation of the Villages.-Waste Fields.-Valleys and Mountains

east of Esdraelon.-Gilboa.-Several Villages and Fountains.-Extent of

the Plain of Esdraelon.-Its great Fertility.-Its Importance in a Military

Point of View.-Mount Carmel.-Appearance of Mount Tabor.-Trees.

-Ruins.-Bedouins and their Flocks.-Dance.-North Side of Tabor.-

Arrival at the Khan.-Disappointment.-Delay.-Route to Tiberias.—

The Plain.-Its spontaneous Products.-Labah.-Soil of the Plain.-Its

general Aspect.-Mount of Beatitudes.-Flourishing Agriculture.-The

Sea of Galilee.-Splendid View.-Descent to Tiberias

The City of Tiberias.-Early Visiters.-Fallen Walls of the Town.-Earth-

quake in 1837.- Desolation.—The Mosques.-The Castle.-Walls.-

Area.-Towers.-Environs.-The Jews' Quarter.-Visit to their Syna-

gogues.-Jewesses.-A polite Rabbi.-Schools.-College.-Number and

Condition of the Jews.-The Christians.-House of St. Peter.-Situation

and Remains of the ancient City.-Hot Springs.-Turkish Baths.-Char-

acter of these Waters.-Bath in the Sea of Tiberias.-Ancient Edifice.-

Tombs in the Base of the Mountain.-Ascent to the Acropolis.-Ruins.

-Citadel.-Wells.-Probable Origin of these Works.-View from the

Acropolis.-The Sea of Tiberias.-Appearance of the Shore.-Region

east of the Sea.-Mount Hermon.-Current through the Sea.—Fishing-

boats.-Fish.-History of Tiberias.-Route to Safet.-Excessive Heat.-

Cemetery.-Reservoirs on the Seashore.-Garden.-The Road. Mej-

dal.-Magdala.-Bad Climate.-The Plain Genesareth.-Cultivation.—

Mills.-Form of the Plain.-Its Identity with the Land of Genesareth.-

Wady Hymam.-Capernaum.-Bethsaida and Chorazin.-Their proba-

ble Sites.-Ascent of the Mountain towards Safet.-Interesting Ruins of

a Stronghold.-Interesting and various Appearance of the Sea of Tibe-

rias.-The Region beyond.-The Land of Genesareth.-Syrian Horses.

-Encampment in a Ravine.-Fountains.- Palm and Olive Trees.-

Measure of Distance.-Trials of Patience.-Acbala.-Rural Beauty.-

Bees.-Female Curiosity.-Ruins.-Arrival at Safet.-Its Situation.-

The Citadel.-Mohammedan Quarter. - The Bazar. - Subterranean

Streets.-Trade.-Houses and Streets.-The Jews.-Their Appearance

and Condition.-Grotesque Costumes.-Persecution of the Jews.-Pop-

ulation of Safet.-The Earthquake in 1837.-Holy Cities of Palestine.

-Cemetery near Safet.-Jewish Schools.-Commerce.-View from Sa-

fet.-Route to Tyre.-Anzeta.-Cadicha.-A large Plain. - Numerous

Herds.-Mount Maconi.-Volcanic Remains.-Zish.-Wady Zish.-

Vineyards.-A Cottage.-Signs of increasing Fertility.-Woodland.

Ruins.-Sarcophagi. - Village of Yaroun.-Splendid Remains of a

Church.-Ancient Well.-Reservoir. - Christian Population. Their

humble Church.-Ruins west of the Village.-Bint el Jebbail.-Appear-

ances of Comfort and Prosperity.-Heretics.-The Weather.-Aspect of

the Country.-Trees.-Koroun.-Beithoni.-Fortress of Tibinin.-Vil-

lage.-Khan.-Sarcophagi.-The Scenery.-View of the Plain of Pho-

nice. Incompetent Guides. - The Route.-Massive Ruins.-Saracen

Aqueduct.-Ancient Paths.-Encamp in the Plains of Tyre.-Digression.

-Observations on the Soil of Palestine.-Erroneous Views.-Causes of

Sterility. Decay of Terraces.-Destruction of Wood.-Bad Tillage.-

Soil of the Hill Country.-The Olive.-Fruits used as Food.—Their Val-

ue.-The Mountains of Ephraim.-The Culture of Wheat.-Esdraelon.-

Colonies in Palestine.-The Restoration of the Jews.-The only prac-

ticable Plan.-Peculiar Features of Palestine.-Destitution of Timber;

of Enclosures and rural Cottages; of Roads.--Costumes.-Present Popu-

lation. Their Character and Condition.-Influence of Government.-

Other Obstacles to Improvement

Phonice.-Cisterns of Solomon. - Form and Dimensions.-The ancient

Aqueduct to Tyre.- Stalactites. - Mills. Abundance of Water.-Its

Source.-Road to Sur.-Situation of the Town.-Origin of the Isthmus.

-Approach to Sur.-American Consulate.-Circuit of the ancient City

made in a Boat.-The present Harbour.-Ancient sea Wall.-Great Num-

ber of ancient Columns.-Ridge of Rocks before the Harbour.-Remains

of the old Wall.-Excavation.-Grandeur of ancient Tyre.-Ruins of a

Church.-Harbour and Walls of Sur.-Population and Wretchedness.-

Trade.-Honours of a Consul.-Route to Sidon.-View of Sur.-Extent

and Fertility of the Plain of Phoenice.—A River.-Singular Monument.

-Sepulchres.-Ruins. - Villages.-Sarepta.-Sea Bath.-Seat of the

French Consul.-Gardens.-Rumours of the Plague.-Farming.-Saida.

-Its Situation.-Luxuriant Gardens in the Environs.-Great Variety of

Trees. -Appearance of the City.-Quarantine.-The Town.-Ancient

Harbour and Pier.-Bridge.-Excavations and Staircases.-Revival and

Decline of Saida.-Population.-Route to Beyrout.-River and Bridge.—

Cultivation. -Mountain Pass.-Jonah's Tomb.-Unique Ornament.-

Khan.-Convent.-A Monk.-Field of Sarcophagi.-The Seacoast.-

Forests of Mulberry-trees.-Grove of Pine-trees.-Luxuriant Gardens.-

The Hotels of Beyrout.-Non-arrival of the Steamer.-Plague at Damas-

cus.-Illness.-American Mission and Missionaries.-Lodgings in the

Suburbs.-Notice of Beyrout.-Harbour.-Walls.-Population and Busi-

ness.-Mount Lebanon.-Cocooneries.-Management of the Mulberry-

tree. Superstition of the Mohammedans.-Evil Eye.-Suburban Gar-

dens and Houses.-Plain and Rivers.-Mount Lebanon.-Its great Ele-

vation and Appearance.-Terraces.-Mountain Population.-Snows on

Lebanon.-The Cedars of Lebanon. - History of Beyrout.- Revived

Trade.-Bombardment by the Allies.

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