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1514; and No. 2 gives us the steel imitation, from a splendid suit of armour presented by that sovereign to our

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king Henry VIII. on his marriage with Catherine of Arragon, and now preserved in the Tower of London. The metal lamboys were the rendering in steel of the bases.

LAMBREQUIN (Fr.). A covering for the helmet, to protect it from wet and heat. See COINTOISE.

LAMES (Fr.). The overlapping plates which formed the tassets of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries (see vol. i., fig. 224). Rope handles affixed to a shield.

No. 1. No. 2.

LANCE. Lances were made of two kinds; those ordinarily carried in war, and those used for the joust or tournament. The latter had a large guard, or vamplate, and a ferule and ring. The war-lance (No. 1) is copied from one in Skelton's "Ancient Armour; "the original is powdered or covered all over with the arms of Inspruck, a red eagle on a white field, and is of the time of Elizabeth. The tilting-lance (No. 2) is copied from one in the "Thurnier Buch," or Tournament Book of Wilhelm IV., of Bavaria, 1510-45. peculiar form of the vamplate will here be seen; its extent was greater upward and downward than at the sides, and it took an outward curve from the body, giving a firm hold to the hand, and resting on the upper part of the arm. A blunt point is at the head, which sometimes was rebated, or

The

turned (see MORNE), or else arranged in a triple head or series of points. See CORONEL. BOURDONASS.

LANCE-GAY. A species of horseman's lance, mentioned in the romances of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. Its use was forbidden by a statute of 2 Edw. III., and again 7 Rich. II. William Newport, 1396, bequeaths a launce-gay. According to Guil. de St. André it was sometimes used as a missile. A launcegaysshaft occurs as late as 1436, in the "Nottingham Records."

LANCE-REST. A projecting support placed on the right side of the breast-plate of a knight in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, to assist him in bearing the heavy lances used in the joust and tournament. A specimen may be here seen, which shows the grande garde. Another is here given from the "Triumph of Maximilian," which also shows the queue or tail, as the

large piece of iron was called which was screwed to the side of the back-plate; it projected nearly a foot, and then took a curve downward. Its use was to relieve the

arm of the combatant from the entire weight of the lance, as it prevented the end from rising when it was held upon the rest, an accident its weight and length might easily occasion. Some lance-rests were made to fold back upon the breast-plate when out of use; a specimen is engraved by Skelton, pl. 29. Lance-rests occur on the brasses of J. Wodehouse, 1465, and a Stapleton, 1466.

LANGUE-DE-BŒUF (Fr.). LANDEBEFFE, DEBEFE. A weapon of the voulge type, taking its name from the shape of the head resembling an ox tongue. Bequests of these weapons occur in the wills of John Cooke, 1487, and John Sharnbourn, 1488.

LANIERS (Fr.). The leathern straps of a shield which go round the arm; or those which held together the various parts of armour. Leathern garters or bands. " Gyrding of scheeldes, with layneres lasyng" is mentioned in Chaucer's "Knight's Tale."

LAPPET. The lace pendants of a lady's head-dress. See vol. i., pp. 355, 366, and HAIRDRESSING, No. 12.

LATCH. The old English name for the cross-bow; probably derived from the latch-like handle used for discharging it.

LATCHET. The strap to fasten a clog; the tongue to secure a shoe.

LAWMPAS. In the will of Wm. Askame, 1390, occurs a volette of crysp and a volet of lawmpas new.

LAWN. A delicate linen fabric; according to Stow, first brought into England during the reign of Queen Elizabeth (but see CHAMPEYN), and used for the ruffs and ruffles, as well as for handkerchiefs and shirts. In Middleton's "Witch," written before Shakespeare's "Macbeth," Francisca says, “A yard of lawn will serve for a christening cloth." In Westward Ho," written before 1607, is, "You must to the Pawn (a corridor in the bazaar at the Exchange) for lawn.”

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LENO. A gauze-like fabric of open thread-work.

LETTICE-LETEWIS. A fur resembling ermine; from the Italian Lattizi. Cotgrave says that the Letice was a beast of a whitish grey colour. It probably resembled ermine (Planché). See HEADDRESS.

LINCOLN-GREEN. A favourite colour, particularly adopted by archers, and named from the place of its manufacture. "Lincoln anciently dyed the best green in England." - Selden's note to Drayton's "Polyolbion," song 25.

LINEN. Cloth made of flax. It was not manufactured to any extent in this country before the time of Charles II. In the wardrobe accounts of Henry VII. the following linen cloths occur frequently: Brabant, linen, Bastaret and Hastaret (?), Bastard, Canaber.

LINSEY-WOLSEY.

A coarse woollen manufacture

first constructed in the parish of Linsey in Suffolk. It is mentioned by Skelton in "Why come ye not to Court?"

"To weve all in one lume

A webbe of lylse wulse."

Linsy wolsy is used as a term for gibberish in "All's Well that Ends Well," iv. 1.

LINSTOCK. An ingenious invention of Italian origin, introduced in the fifteenth century, and consisting of a pike, with branches on each side, sometimes formed into the shape of a bird's head, to hold a lighted match for the cannoneer who used them, and who was thus capable of defending himself with the same implement used for firing ordnance.

LIRIPIPES.

Pendent streamers or

tails to the hood. See vol. i., figs. 81, 91, 149, 186, and HEADDRESS, Nos. 28, 29.

LIVERY. It was usual in the middle ages for all retainers of a noble house to wear a uniformcoloured cloth in dress, chosen by the family. old play of "Sir Thomas More," circa 1590,—

"And cause to be proclaimd about the cittie
That no man whatsoever, that belongs
Either to my Lord of Winchester, or Elie,
Doo walk without the liverie of his lord,
Either in cloke or any other garment;
That notice may be taken of the offenders."

"So long squiers liveries shall haue
Of groom of hall, or else his knaue.”

The Boke of Curtasye.

Thus in the

The merchantmen and guilds usually adopted them (see vol. i., p. 333) and they were in use as early as Chaucer's time (see Chaucer's prologue, referred to in the History). In Lydgate's account of the entry of Henry VI. into London, after his coronation, we read,

"The citizens, each one of the city,

In her entent that they were pure and clene;

Chose them of white a full fayre lyvery,
In every craft, as it was welle seen;
To shew the truth that they did mean
Toward the king, had made hem faithfully,
In sundry devise embroidered richly."

LOCHABER AXE. "It had a broad blade, and frequently at the back a hook for pulling down fascines, &c., or a bridle cutter,' that is a small beak with a concave edge."-Hewitt. See Grose, pl. 28.

LOCKET, or CRAMPET.

The upper part of the scabbard of a sword (see vol. i., fig. 167), to which is fixed the ring for supporting it. The similar band lower down the scabbard is also so called. The lockets were sometimes jewelled, and in some cases, as in the effigy of a Wilcote at High Leigh, Oxon, the letters I.H.S. are engraven on it. See also J. de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk, 1495 (Stothard); and the Duke of Suffolk, 1444 (Gough). An ornament worn by ladies about the neck, generally to contain hair or portraits.

LOCKRAM. A coarse linen cloth; originally manufactured in Brittany.

"The kitchen malkin pins her richest lockram bout her reechy neck." Coriolanus, ii. 1.

LOOKING-GLASS. These articles were carried at ladies' girdles temp. Elizabeth and James I., and are frequently noticed by writers of the period. See FAN, No. 6.

LOO-MASKS, from loup, Fr. a half-mask. Half-masks, covering the face to the nose only; they were worn in calm, as whole masks were in windy weather. In a portrait of Horace Walpole by Rosalba, and painted for Kitty Clive, he wears a white loo-mask turned aside over his ear, but kept in place by being inserted between the head and hat.

"Loo masks, and whole, as wind do blow,
And miss abroad's dispos'd to go."

Mundus Muliebris, 1690.

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LOVE-LOCK. See HAIR-DRESSING. They were sometimes called French locks. In a long French lock

1614, 66

Rub and a great Cast," is mentioned. In Green's

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