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Hibbert, Esq., representing la manière de faire champ à l'outrance.

In the Arsenal copy of "Partonopex," King Sornegur is described as having at his girdle, which was of gold work, a misericorde as well as an "alesne" (awl), which was evidently another dagger. There was a proclamation in the city of London just before the coronation of Edward II. against brandishing misericordes and other weapons.

"The Rychmound borne doun thar was:

On hym arestyt the Dowglas,

And hym reversyt, and with a knyff
Rycht in that place reft hym the lyff."

BARBOUR'S Bruce, b. 16.

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MITRE. The original form of the mitre gave it the appearance of a round cap, with the natural depression in its centre, since magnified into a cleft (see vol. i., fig. 63). To this were appended the infula, which appear to be part of the cap in the curious example given (No. 1) from Willemin's "Monumens Français Inédits." They were always retained, and sometimes formed of metal, and secured to the mitre by a hinge, as on the splendid one formerly belonging to Cornelius O'Deagh, Bishop of Limerick, 1418, engraved in the "Archæologia," vol. xvii. In the thirteenth century an acutely-pointed form was taken by the mitre,

No. 1.

and the circlet or rim was very narrow, as seen upon an effigy of that period in the Temple Church, London (No. 2). Durandus mentions two kinds of mitres, mitra linea et alba and mitra aurifrisiata. This form continued with a little variation during the fourteenth century, as may be seen in No. 3, from the

No. 2.

No. 3.

1 According to Mons. Demay, about the commencement of the thirteenth century the points of the mitre change their position from being

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effigy of Godfrey Giffard, Bishop of Worcester, who died 1301, and is buried in Worcester Cathedral. His mitre stretches out from the sides of the head, and the central cleft does not immediately begin at the rim; the mitre is also richly jewelled, and the clergy now rendered themselves obnoxious to satire by the splendour of their garments, and particularly their jewelled mitres see vol. i., p. 134. For another specimen of a mitre we must refer to vol. i., fig. 95. The bowed mitre, as now worn, was a late invention; and is seen upon Bishop Harsnett, vol. i., fig. 253. Pugin says that bishops used three kinds of mitres: 1st, the simplex, of plain white linen; 2nd, the aurifrigiata, ornamented with gold orphreys; 3rd, the pretiosa, enriched, as its name implies, with gold and jewels in the most sumptuous manner, to be used at high feasts. He also tells us that its cleft signifies knowledge of the Old and New Testament, the front signifying one, the back the other, and its height the eminence of knowledge a

bishop should have. At this rate the old or original mitre could have had no meaning! The Limerick mitre, 1418, is thirteen inches in height. No.4 is from Cott. MS. Nero D. iv. of the twelfth century; No. 5 is from the effigy of Roger, Bishop of Salisbury, in Salisbury Cathedral. The mitre was worn by certain abbots as well as by bishops. The colour of the bishop's mitre was usually white. The row of strawberry leaves around the modern archbishop's mitre is an invention of modern engravers.

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No. 4.

No. 5.

MITTENS. Countrymen's gloves: see vol. i., p. 122. Fur mittens are seen in the brass of Margaret Castyll, at Raveningham, Norfolk, 1483. Mittens as worn by country people are seen in the Loutrell Psalter. See also vol. i., fig. 78.

one on each side to one in front and the other behind. The vertical stripe on the front of the mitre is seen on the seal of Richard, Bishop of Amiens, 1306, and the jewelled crosses on each side of the stripe appear on that of Henri, Bishop of Rheims, 1233.

MOCHADO. A manufacture of silk, sometimes called mock-velvet, much used in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. It is alluded to in the following list of stuffs given in Taylor's "Praise of Hempseed" (temp. James I.) :—

"Alasse! what would our silken Mercers be,

What could they doe (sweet Hempseed) but for thee?
Rash, Taffeta, Paropa, and Novato,

Shagge, Filizetta, Damaske, and Mochado."

MODESTY. A linen or gauze covering for the neck, worn by ladies in the early part of the last century, when the dress was worn low on the bust. At a more recent

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period, we are told in the Guardian "that a narrow lace which runs along the upper part of the stays before, being a part of the tucker, is called the Modesty-piece.' See Malcolm's "Anecdotes of London."

MOILES. "A kind of high-soled shoes worn in ancient times by kings and great persons."-Philips' "World of Words," 1611. Of the" six hundred of Epigrams by J. Heywood, 1587," one speaks thus "of saving of shoes:

"Thou wear'st (to weare thy wyt and thrift together)
Moyles of velvet to save thy shooes of lether;

Ofte have we seene moyle men ryde uppon asses,
But to see assys go on moyles, that passys!

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MOKADOR. A bib. See BAVARETTE. In one of the "Coventry Mysteries," where Christ disputes with the doctors in the temple, one of them exclaims,—

"Goo hom, lytyl babe, and sytt on thi moderes lappe,

And put a mokador aforn thi breast;

And pray thi modyr to fede the with pappe:

Of the for to lerne we desyre not to lest."

The word is also applied to a handkercief. See Halliwell's "Dictionary ;" and MUCKINDer.

MOKKADOES. A woollen cloth. Tufted mokkadoes are mentioned temp. Elizabeth. Query if not another form of MOCHADO.

MONMOUTH CAP. See HEAD-DRESS. The Monmouth cap was worn by sailors, as appears from the following

quotation in the notes to the last edition (Collier's) of Dodsley's "Old Plays":—

"With Monmouth cap, and cutlace by my side,
Striding at least a yard at every stride,

I'm come to tell you, after much petition,
The Admiralty has given me a commission."

A Satyre on Sea Officers, by Sir H. S., published with
the Duke of Buckingham's Miscellanies.

In the "Antidote to Melancholy," 1661, we find also

"The souldiers that the Monmouth wear."

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The Welsh are spoken of as wearing leeks in their Monmouth caps" by Fluellyn in Hen. V. :

"The Welsh his Monmouth use to wear."

MONTAUBAN.

The Fushions, Merry Drolleries, 1661.

Sir F. Madden, in "Archæologia,"

vol. xxvi., supposes that this hat derived its name from Montalvan, in Arragon. See HEAD-DRESS.

MONTE-LA-HAUT (Fr.). Certain degrees of wire to raise the dress. ("Mundus Muliebris," 1690.)

MORDAUNT (Fr.). The tongue of a buckle. (Mordeo,

Lat.)

Planché holds that the mordaunt is the metal chape or tag fixed to the end of a girdle or strap, as opposed to the buckle, and notes in proof of this that ardillon is the French for the tongue.

"The mordaunt, wrought in noble gise,
Was of a stone full precious."

Romaunt of the Rose, 1. 1095.

MORGLAY, a name for a sword, from that of Bevis of Southampton.

"The form of carrying

Their morglays in their hands."

BEAUMONT AND FLETCHER's Honest Man's
Fortune, 1613.

See also "Every Man in his Humour," 1609, "A Woman is a Weathercock," 1612, and Cartwright's "Ordinary," 1651.

MORION. A helmet introduced in the early part of the sixteenth century. For specimens, see vol. i., fig. 222,

Nos. 3 and 4.

MORNE. The head of a tilting-lance (see that word), having its point rebated, or turned back, to prevent injury to the knight's opponent. The cut is copied from one carried by a knight arrayed for the tournament, in the " Triumphs of Maximilian.'

MORNETTES, or little MORNES. The term applied to the points of the coronel. See CoRonel. MORNING-STAR. See HOLYWATER-SPRINKLER. MORRIS-PIKE. A species of long pike, borrowed from the Moors, and properly termed Moorish-pike, often mentioned in the reigns of Henry VIII. and Elizabeth. Our specimen is copied from the head of one engraved by Skelton.

MORSE. The clasp or fastening of the cope: from the Latin mordere, to bite. It was generally of rich goldsmith's work, and two specimens of various patterns are engraved from a beautifully illuminated manuscript "Life of the Virgin," executed in the fourteenth century, at present belong

ing to the library at Soissons.

MOTON. See PALETTES. A small plate covering the armpits, seen upon the effigy of Sir Thomas Peyton, vol. i., fig. 221.

MOULDS. These must have been some part of, or enrichment of breeches, for they are mentioned in connection with them in the wills of George Rowsley, 1575, and J. Rowland, 1576, published among the Bristol Wills.

MOULINET (Fr.). (See vol. i., fig. 172.) This was a machine used by cross-bowmen to wind up their bows. That part appearing above the girdle, in the figure to the left on the above page, was a hollow tube affixed to the top of the handle of the cross-bow, and having a firm hold upon it; to the cords which hung from this portion two hooks were attached, which, on being wound up by the handles, pulled the bowstring into its place, the bow being firmly held by the foot placed in the stirrup at the bottom, as shown in the second figure of the same cut.

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