During the reign of Henry VIII. they became puffed and widened at top, as seen on the figure of the Earl of Surrey, p. 231; and became, during the next three reigns, dissevered in name from the hose, one of the terms originally applied to them, and afterwards exclusively to the long stocking. Their varieties of form and fashion are fully noted in our history of that period. They are thus enumerated in one of Valerius's songs in Heywood's "Rape of Lucrece," 1638:

"The Spaniard loves his ancient slop,
The Lombard his Venetian;

And some like breechless women go

The Russ, Turk, Jew, and Grecian.

The thrifty Frenchman wears small waist;
The Dutch his belly boasteth;

The Englishman is for them all,

And for each fashion coasteth."

Hutton, in his "Follie's Anatomie," 1619, mentions a man as "rayling on cloakebag breeches ;" and Peirce Penniless, 1592, says "they are bombasted like beer-barrels ;" and in the "Return from Parnassus," 1606, we are told, "There is no fool to the satin fool, the velvet fool, the perfumed fool; and therefore the witty tailors of this age put them, under colour of kindness, into a pair of cloth bags:" and in "Ram Alley," 1611, act iv. sc. 1, "his breeches must be pleated as if he had thirty pockets." Holinshed blames men at this time for spending most money on this article of dress, which was sometimes very elegantly cut and embroidered. A specimen is here given from Elstracke's

rare portrait of Henry Lord Darnley, husband to Mary Queen of Scots. "I cannot endure these round breeches, I am ready to swoon at them," says Lucida in Field's play, "A Woman is a Weathercock,' 1612. The breeches of the reign of Charles I. were not thus bombasted,

but were loose to the knee, where they ended in a fringe or row of ribbons, as in the cut on p. 306. So they continued during the Commonwealth: see cuts, pp. 311, 326. With the Restoration came the French petticoat-breeches, en

graved and described p. 314. Randle Holme, the Chester herald, in some brief notices of dress preserved among the Harleian MSS., and numbered 4375, has sketched various specimens there engraved, which are most valuable in fixing dates, as Holme notes and describes them as he saw them worn. In the Prologue to "The Tanner Tanned,” 1660, reference is made to the resemblance of the breeches then in fashion to Petty-coats. Towards the end of the reign of Charles the petticoat-breeches were discarded, and they bore more resemblance to those worn during the reign of Henry VIII. (see cut of the Earl of Surrey, p. 231, and that of gentlemen temp. Charles II., p. 320): but they got gradually tighter until William III. introduced the plain tight knee-breeches, still worn as court-dress. Examples of those in general wear after this period are furnished by the cuts in vol. i., and need no further mention here.

BRICHETTES. Another term for tasses and culettes, forming together a safeguard round the hips, and appended to the waist of an armed man.

BRIDELACES. Laces or ribands worn by those attending at weddings; the origin of modern wedding favours. In "The Woman Killed with Kindness," 1604, we have "with_nosegays and bridelaces in their hats." And in "The Two Angry Women of Abingdon,"

"A nosegay bound with laces to his hat,

Bride laces, Sir, and his hat all green."

In Killigrew's "Parson's Wedding," 1660, bridelaces, and points to be worn in the hats by friends, occur.

BRIDGWATER. A name for a kind of broad-cloth, manufactured in that town, and mentioned in an act of the 6th Edward VI.

BRIGANDINE. A light armour composed of small plates of metal fastened between the cloths of a quilted or leather jacket, which was covered with velvet or silk, on which the rivet-heads showed. These latter were often gilt or tinned, and of various shapes. The lightness and flexibility of this armour gave it an advantage over plate; and Philip de Comines mentions, sub anno 1465, that the

riched with golden needlework, and had a band of the same around the neck. The weight of the garment pressing on the arms caused the wearers to roll up the chasuble at the sides; and in later times this part was cut away, until the shape as seen in the present day was arrived at. At Sens is still preserved a chasuble of Thomas à-Becket; and the brass of Alexander Anne, at Middle Claydon, Bucks, 1526, will show the form in use in the sixteenth century. The effigy of Archbishop Sandys in Southwell Minster shows the chasuble very long behind.

CHAUSSES (Fr.). The tight coverings for the legs and body, reaching to the waist, in use by the Normans. In an incised slab at Jerpoint Abbey, Kilkenny, engraved in vol. x. "Arch. Jour.," the chausses of the knights are represented as gartered with a lace. In the effigy of William Longespée the chausses are gartered in the same manner as the coif of mail is laced.

CHEKLATON, CICLATOUN, SIGLATOUN. A rich cloth supposed to have been brought from Persia. Chaucer, in his "Rime of Sir Thopas," describes that knight in a robe of checkelatoun; and Tyrwhitt, in a note, considers it identical with the cyclas (see that word). Strutt, however, believes it to be the same as checkiratus, a cloth used by the Normans, of chequer-work curiously wrought. Spenser, in his "Present State of Ireland," says "sheklaton is that kind of guilded leather with which they use to embroider theyr Irish jackes."

CHEMISE. A shirt; an under-garment. See CAMISE, SMOCK. La chemise was a fashionable dress in 1782. See "Britannic Magazine" for 1783.

CHENILLE. An open edging for ladies' dress, of silk thread corded, and of the pattern annexed. It obtains its name from its resemblance to the convolutions of a hairy caterpillar-the

Chenille of France.

CHESSE. A border or circlet. Chesses of pearl form part of a chaplet for the aldermen of the Guild of the Blessed Virgin Mary at Bristol, 1534 (Peacock).

pounds three and sixpence per yard; and colure-du-prince brocade at two pounds three shillings per yard." The term is derived from the French verb brocher, to work with a needle. "Clothe of golde broched upon sattyn ground and "blue clothe of silver broched upon satyn grounde" occur in the wardrobe expenses of Edward IV.

BROCAT is the original term for brocade, which appears to have been a very rich stuff. Thus Strutt, in his "Dress and Habits," says it was composed of silk interwoven with threads of gold and silver. We read of a clerical vestment, in an old inventory cited by Du Cange, which was brocaded with gold upon a red ground, and enriched with the representations of lions and other animals. Brocade seems to have been exceedingly rare upon the Continent even in the fourteenth century; and probably it was not known at all in England as early as the thirteenth.

BROELLA. A coarse kind of cloth used for the ordinary dresses of countrymen and the monastic clergy in the middle ages.

BROGS. A kind of breeches so called in "The Fair Maid of the Inn," 1647.

BROIGNE. Body-armour for a soldier. See BRUNY.

BROOCH. A critical disquisition, with illustrative cuts, on Anglo-Saxon brooches has already been given on p. 34. of this volume. An additional specimen engraved on p. 36 measures 12 inches across, the central cross being formed of blue and red stones, and the casing of gold. These circular fibulæ were used to fasten the cloak or mantle over the breast; the pin was affixed beneath, and was smaller than those on the Irish specimens engraved on the same page, not reaching beyond the circle of the brooch. Some splendid examples of these ornaments, discovered in Kentish barrows, may be seen in the works on Saxon Antiquities quoted on p. 38, coloured in imitation of the originals. One in particular, now in the possession of the Rev. W. Vallance, of Maidstone, is a magnificent specimen of art. It measures nearly 23 inches across, and is inlaid with coloured stones and filled with filigree work of the most delicate and

beautiful description, auguring a very high state of art among the jewellers of that period: and bracelets, rings, and jewels of beaten or twisted gold, are continually mentioned in the Anglo-Saxon poems. Other fine examples

may be seen in the volume descriptive of the Faussett collection of Anglo-Saxon Antiquities, now in the possession of J. Mayer, F.S.A., of Liverpool. Among them is one noble example found at Kingston-down, near Canterbury, the largest ever yet discovered, and fully described in the note on p. 34. In the "Archæological Album," p. 206,

is given the accompanying woodcut of the gold shell of a very magnificent Saxon fibula, in the possession of Mr. Fitch, of Ipswich, which was found at Sutton, near Woodbridge, in Suffolk, by a labourer whilst ploughing. When first discovered, it was studded with stones or coloured glass ornaments, the centre of a red colour, the four large circles blue, and the smaller pieces filled with green and various colours. Our cut is of the actual size. The Norman brooch was more like an ornamental open circle of jewels and stones, with a central pin; and its name brooch is derived from this article, and its resemblance to a spit (Fr. broche). Such a brooch may be seen, as worn by Queen Berengaria, in our cut, p. 93. They were much. used to close the opening in front of the dress, as there exhibited, and continued in use to a comparatively modern period.

"A broch sche bar in hir loue coleer
As brod as is the bos of a bocleer."

CHAUCER'S Miller's Tale.

"A broche golde and asure,

In whiche a ruby set was like an herte,

Criseyde hym yaf, and stak it on his sherte."

CHAUCER'S Troilus and Creseide.