serving-man, or a gentleman usher, lady." To which she answers, "And yet that lac'd cloak, being so near ally'd to a livery, may breed a foul suspicion." All pretenders to gentility were careful to wear them. In Rowland's "Knave of Hearts," 1613, one of the knaves exclaims, that people think, "Because we walke in jerkins and in hose, 66 In the reign of Charles I. a shorter cloak was indicative of a fashionable. I learn to dance already and wear short cloaks," says Timothy, a city gull, who desires to be a gallant, in Mayne's "City Match," 1639. The shape of these cloaks may be seen in vol. i. fig. 254; for those of Charles II. see vol. i. fig. 245; and of William III., figs. 272, 273. CLOCKS " are the gores of a ruff, the laying in of the cloth to make it round, the plaites" (Randle Holme). It was also applied to the ornament on stockings; and during the fifteenth century to that upon hoods, as seen in fig. 190. CLOGS. A protection for the soles of the shoes. See BOOTS, and figs. 132, 135. CLOUTS. Napkins; kerchiefs. The poor countrywomen described by Thynne (temp. Eliz.) appear "With homely clouts i-knitt upon their head, The Debate between Pride and Lowliness. "If I were mad I should forget my sonne, King John, iii. 4. Also patches as applied to boots or shoes; in some cases it refers to the clouts or nails in the shoes. It is also the centre of the target in archery. "Bothe bihynde and eke biforne Roman du Rose. CLUB. An implement in use by warriors in the early The war-mace may be considered as an improve ages. ment upon it. The Welsh knight engraved fig. 69 carries one; and the combatants in the duels or trials by battle during the middle ages were originally restricted to their use. See BASTON. COAT. A man's upper garment, first mentioned by that name in the fifteenth century. The modern gentleman's coat may be said to take its origin from the vest, or long outer garment, worn toward the end of the reign of Charles II. See vol. i. pp. 320, 321. During the reign of his brother it became universally adopted; and in that of William III. was the national garb. It was frequently covered on all the seams with gold lace. Brigadier Levison, on the 6th of August, 1691, having pursued Brigadier Carrol from Nenagh toward Limerick, is said, in a diary of the siege of Limerick, printed in Dublin, 1692, to have taken all his baggage, “amongst which were two rich coats of long Anthony Carrol's, one valued at eighty pounds, the other at forty guineas." It does not appear to have been cut away at the sides till the reign of George III.; previously it was turned over, obviously for convenience, and so worn by soldiers with the ends secured to a button. COCKADE. A bow of ribbon representing the bow of the strings by which the flap of a soft hat was tied up. The cockade has had a political significance according to its colour. Planché says the black cockade appears in the English army temp. George II., but he is unable to fix its origin. He suggests it was assumed in opposition to the Jacobite white cockade. COCKERS. High-laced boots worn by countrymen, and mentioned in "Piers Plowman," and by writers until the reign of Charles I. (see fig. 79). They were made of rude materials, sometimes of untanned leather. Bishop Hall, in his "Satires," has the line "And his patch'd Cokers now despised been." The term is still used in the North of England for gaiters or leggings, and even for coarse stockings without feet used as gaiters.-Way's "Promptorium." For examples see "Luttrell Psalter," and Shaw's "Dresses and Costumes." It BUCKLER. A small shield, much used by swordsmen in the fifteenth and sixteenth century, to ward a blow. varied in size, and was sometimes very small, like the one here given (No. 1) from the romance of The Four Sons of Aymon," in 46 No. 2. No. 1. the National Library at Paris (No. 7182), which is being used by an armed knight in the lists, as he fights with an opponent, both being armed with swords. It was used not so much for a shield as for a warder to catch the blow of an adversary. The Wife of Bath is described by Chaucer in a hat "As brood as is a bocler or a targe;" The targe or target was not very different, the principal distinction being, according to Meyrick, No. 3. in the handle which extended across it to the outer circumference, as exhibited in No. 2, from a MS. in the Royal Library, British Museum, No. 20 D 6 (fourteenth century). In the romance of "King Alexander," we are told he had "And fiftene thousand of fot laddes, They were commonly used for exercise by the apprentices of London; and sword-and-buckler play was enjoined by the higher powers. Stow informs us that the young Londoners, on holidays, were permitted thus to exercise them 1 Literally "strong vagabonds:" the term used as we now should use the phrase "stout rascals." plain, or cut into various forms on their edges, being the origin of the heraldic mantling. Two specimens are here given. No. 2 is of the most ancient form, and is taken from the tomb of Aylmer de Valence, in Westminster Ab invented to cover the helmet, and prevent its getting overheated by the sun. No. 1 is of the more moderu form, and will be at once recognized as the one which forms so elegant an addition to coat armour on seals of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. It is of the later date, its edges are cut in the form of leaves, and it has tasselled terminations. A cointoise very similar is seen upon the tilting-helmet of Sir John Drayton, engraved p. 204. 66 COLBERTEEN. Colbertain, or Golbertiene, a kind of open lace with a square ground.-Randle Holme. It is described in the "Fop Dictionary," 1690, as a lace resembling network of the fabrick of Monsieur Colbert, Superintendant of the French King's Manufactures." Dean Swift, in his "Baucis and Philemon," 1708, has, "Instead of home-spun coifs were seen "Go, hang out an old Frisoneer gorget with a yard of yellow colberteen COLET-MONTÉS (Fr.). A high collar in imitation of the Elizabethan ruff worn at the close of the last century. In a satirical poem on dress, published 1777, and entitled "Venus attiring the Graces," we read "Your colet-montés don't reach to your chin." COLLAR. A defence of mail or plate for the neck. The upper part of a coat or cloak. "A standing collar to keep his neat band clean," is mentioned in the comedy of "Ram Alley," 1611. The fashion is also alluded to in Rowland's "Knave of Hearts," 1611: : "Let us have standing collers in the fashion; Collars were worn by knights and gentlemen as the badges of adherence to particular families. Instances are given on pp. 204, 206, 215; and for more information on this subject, see Willement's "Regal Heraldry," Berry's " Encyclopædia Heraldica," Stothard's and Hollis' "Effigies," also papers by the late Mr. Nichols in "Gentleman's Magazine," 1842-3, and Mr. A. Hartshorne, " Arch. Jour.," 1883. These collars were ornamented with the badges and mottoes of the donors. The investiture by a collar and a pair of spurs was the creation of an esquire in the middle ages. 66 COLLERET. A small collar worn close around the neck in the time of William and Mary, and seen in the cut on p. 349. COLOBIUM. A secular dress adopted as a church-vestment at a very early period; see p. 50. COMB. Combs of ivory and bone are occasionally found in the early barrows of the British and Saxon eras. They are generally very large in those of the latter period, and do not appear to have been worn in the hair. One is engraved in Douglas's "Nenia," and another, precisely similar, was in the Museum of C. R. Smith; it measured seven inches in length, but, as it was imperfect, its original length would be ten. The teeth were cut from a single piece of bone, upon which were affixed, by studs, two. thin pieces of ivory slightly ornamented, to strengthen the upper part above the teeth, and |