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A HISTORY OF DRESS

TO TIIE

END OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.

BY THE LATE

F. W. FAIRHOLT, F.S.A.

FOURTH EDITION.

БІ

The Hon. H. A. DILLON, F.S.A.

ILLUSTRATED WITH ABOVE SEVEN HUNDRED ENGRAVINGS.

Vol. II.-GLOSSARY.

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LONDON:
GEORGE BELL AND SONS, YORK STREET,

COVENT GARDEN.

1896.

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CHISWICK PRESS :-C. WHITTINGHAM AND CO., TOOKS COURT,

CHANCERY LANE.

LIBRARY

Leland Stanfo:d, ;

PREFACE

TO THE REVISED EDITION.

ORI
RIGINALLY published as part of Fairholt's “Cos-

tume in England,” the Glossary is by no means the least important section of that work. In the present edition it has been thought best to devote a separate volume to it. About 220 new articles, and the additions made in very many cases to the original subjects, as well as greater handiness for the reader, have necessitated the change. Though in some respects an independent book of reference, it will be found that the two volumes should be used together, one supplementing the other, as will be seen by the numerous references to Vol. I. The quotations have been, as in Vol. I., corrected and restored to their original spelling.

As stated above, more than two hundred new headings have been added, with about fifty new illustrations, some of which, as in the first volume, were left by Mr. Fairholt, whilst some have been kindly lent by Messrs. Isbister from the same aathor's “ Dictionary of Terms of Art," and others have been selected by the present editor from authentic sources. To C. Roach Smith, Esq., F.S.A., the editor has been indebted for some additions to both volumes, and he has also to thank J. C. Smith, Esq., of Somerset House, for some of the many notices from wills which have been added in this volume. The list of works treating of costume, appended to Vol. I., may again be recommended to the reader, and the index of that volume will, it is hoped, with the present one, give such information as a handbook of this size may be expected to afford.

H. A. DILLON.

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GLOSSARY.

References to pages and figures refer to the Historical portion of this work, vol. i.

ABILLEMENTS. Called also Billements and Habillements, and mentioned in the Privy Purse expenses of the Princess Mary (afterwards Queen of England), are there distinguished by the terms “upper” and “nether.” Sir F. Madden observes that “it evidently implies some ornaments of goldsmith's-work, probably worn round the neck or bosom, not unfrequently set with pearls, diamonds, rubies, etc. The term is equivalent to that of border, which was also divided into upper and nether, so that the ornaments must have been nearly the same.' Sir C. Hatton, on New Year's Day, 1585, gave the

queen an upper

and nether abillement of gold. The upper contained eleven pieces, six like “harts,”, and five crowns imperial. The nether contained eight links of pearl and two sparks of diamonds; and nine set with roses of sparks of diamonds with small rubies in the centre of each; evi. dently two necklaces: the latter would hang low down on the bosom, while the former was more like a collar.

As they are mentioned in close connection with of great pearls for Her Grace's neck,” it applies to strings of pearls, stones, etc., as well as to goldsmith's work. ACKETON (Fr.). A quilted jacket worn under the

In the “Romance of Alexander” (fourteenth century), a knight is pierced

a lace

“ Through brunny and scheld to the akedoun;"

armour.

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