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rags. But what would those sticks fignify to carve a turkey-cock, or achine of beef? therefore our forks are of quite different fhape: the fteel ones are bidental, and the filver generally refembling tridents; which makes me think them to be as ancient as the Saturnian race, where the former is appropriated to Pluto, and the latter to Neptune. It is certain that Pedro Della Valle, that famous Italian Traveller, carried his knife and fork into the Eaft Indies; and he gives a large account how, at the court of an Indian Prince, he was admired for his neatness in that particular, and his care in wiping that and his knife before he returned them to their refpective.repofitories. I could with Dr. Wotton, in the next edition of his "Modern Learning," would fhew us how much we are improved fince Dr. Heylin's time, and tell us the original of ivory knives, with which young heirs are suffered to mangle their own pudding; as likewife of filver and gold knives, brought-in with the deffert for carving of jellies and -orange-butter; and the indispensable neceffity of a filverknife at the fide-board, to mingle fallads with, as is with great learning made out in a Treatife called Acetaria, concerning "Dreffing of Sallads." A noble Work! But 1 tranfgrefs

And yet, pardon me, good Doctor, I had almost forgot a thing that I would not have done for the world, it is fo remarkable. I think I may be pofitive, from this verse of Juvenal, where he speaks of the Egyptians,

"Porrum et cepe nefas violare, et frangere morfu;"

that

that it was "facrilege to chop a leek, or bite an onion." Nay, I believe that it amounts to a demonstration, that Pharaoh Necho could have no true lenten porridge, nor any carrier's fauce to his mutton; the true receipt of making which fauce I have from an ancient Mf. remaining at the Bull-inn in Bishopfgate-street, which runs thus:

"Take feven fpoonfuls of spring-water; flice two "onions of moderate fize into a large faucer, and put "in as much falt as you can hold at thrice betwixt your fore-finger and thumb, if large, and ferve it up." Probatum eft.

HOBSON, Carrier to the University of Cambridge.

The effigies of that worthy perfon remains ftill at that inn; and I dare fay, not only Hobfon, but old Birch, and many others of that mufical and delightful profession, would rather have been labourers at the pyramids with that regale, than to have reigned at Memphis, and have been debarred of it. I break-off abruptly. Believe me an admirer of your worth, and a follower of your methods towards the increafe of Learning, and more especially your, &c.

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I

SIR,

AM now very feriously employed in a Work that,

I hope, may be useful to the Publick, which is a Poem of the Art of Cookery," in imitation of Horace's “Art of Poetry," inscribed to Dr. Lifter, as hoping it may be in time read as a preliminary to his Works. But I have not vanity enough to think it will live fo long. I have in the mean time fent you an imitation of Horace's invitation of Torquatus to fupper, which is the Fifth Epiftle of his First Book. Perhaps you will find fo many faults in this, that vou may fave me the trouble of my other propofal; but, however, take it as it is:

If Bellvill can his generous foul confine

To a fmall room, few dishes, and fome wine,
I fhall expect my happiness at nine.
Two bottles of fmooth Palm, or Anjou white,
Shall give a welcome, and prepare delight;
Then for the Bourdeaux you may freely afk;
But the Champaigne is to each man his flask.
I tell you with what force I keep the field;
And, if you can exceed it, fpeak; I'll yield.
The fnow-white damafk enfigns are display'd,
And glittering falvers on the fide-board laid.

Thus

C

}

Thus we 'll difperfe all busy thoughts and cares,
The General's counfels, and the Statefman's fears:
Nor fhall fleep reign in that precedent night,
Whose joyful hours lead on the glorious light,
Sacred to British worth in Blenheim's fight.
The bleffings of good-fortune feem refus'd,
Unless fometimes with generous freedom us'd.
'Tis madness, not frugality, prepares

A vaft excess of wealth for fquandering heirs.
Mutt I of neither wine nor mirth partake,
Left the cenforious world fhould call me rake?
Who, unacquainted with the generous wine,
E'er fpoke bold truths, or fram'd a great defign?
That makes us fancy every face has charms;
That gives us courage, and then finds us arms;
Sees care difburthen'd, and each tongue employ'd,
The poor grown rich, and every wish enjoy'd.
This I'll perform, and promise you shall fee
A cleanlinefs from affectation free:

No noife, no hurry, when the meat 's fet on,
Or, when the dish is chang'd, the fervants gone :
For all things ready, nothing more to fetch,
Whate'er

you want is in the Mafter's reach.
Then for the company, I'll fee it chose;
Their emblematic fignal is the Rose.
If you of Freeman's raillery approve,
Of Cotton's laugh, and Winner's tales of love,
And Bellair's charming voice may be allow'd;
What can you hope for better froin a crowd?

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But I fhall not prefcribe.

Confult your ease,

Write back your men, and number, as you please:
Try your back-stairs, and let the lobby wait:
A ftratagem in war is no deceit.

I am, Sir, yours, &c.

I

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HERE fend you what I promised, " A Discourse of Cookery," after the method which Horace has taken in his "Art of Poetry," which I have all along kept in my view; for Horace certainly is an Author to be imitated in the delivery of precepts for any art or fcience. He is indeed fevere upon OUR fort of learning in fome of his Satires; but even there he inftructs, as in the Fourth Satire of the Second Book, ver. 13.

"Longa quibus facies ovis erit, illa memento,
Ut fucci melioris, et ut magis alba rotundis,
"Ponere: namque marem cohibent callofa vitellum."
"Choofe eggs oblong; remember they 'll be found
"Of fweeter tafte, and whiter than the round:

The firmness of that fhell includes the male."

I am much of his opinion, and could only with that the world was thoroughly informed of two other truths concerning eggs. One is, how incomparably better roafted eggs are than boiled; the other, never to eat any

butter

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